Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 41 to 80 of 124
  1. #41
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    O.K. - Now you got me interested because of the way you did it. You have the ESC mounted up just high enough to clear the box so you didn't have to modify the chassis. I'm gonna have to steal that idea. I especially like it because you didn't mount the ESC to the rails so a crash won't destroy your caps on the ESC.

    Also, because I'm interested in how you did that, when you go to install your new components, could you snap a few shots of your ESC mount setup?
    I can do that. I bought the mount. It comes with the reciever box. You take the cap off the stock reciever box and it comes with standoffs that let the mount sit about 1 or 2mm above the chassis. I didn't come up with anything on my own, somebody elses idea. I do like it though.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  2. #42
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I can do that. I bought the mount. It comes with the reciever box. You take the cap off the stock reciever box and it comes with standoffs that let the mount sit about 1 or 2mm above the chassis. I didn't come up with anything on my own, somebody elses idea. I do like it though.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    I'm not understanding something. You say you bought the mount and it comes with the receiver box --- which receiver box; stock or aftermarket? Also, you mentioned removing the cap off the stock receiver box and I somehow get the impression that you are referring to two different receiver boxes still. 1 or 2mm isn't sitting right with me for some reason because you mentioned the chassis.

    Wouldn't it (ESC mount) have to sit 1 or 2mm above the receiver box and not the chassis?

    By the way, Thanks again for starting this thread because you have already opened the door to some possibilities I thought were shut.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 04-24-2019 at 09:32 PM. Reason: Thanks
    Welcome To The Futures' Past!

  3. #43
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    I'm not understanding something. You say you bought the mount and it comes with the receiver box --- which receiver box; stock or aftermarket? Also, you mentioned removing the cap off the stock receiver box and I somehow get the impression that you are referring to two different receiver boxes still. 1 or 2mm isn't sitting right with me for some reason because you mentioned the chassis.

    Wouldn't it (ESC mount) have to sit 1 or 2mm above the receiver box and not the chassis?

    By the way, Thanks again for starting this thread because you have already opened the door to some possibilities I thought were shut.
    This is the best picture I could find. You leave the cover off the stock reciever, the mount screws into the holes from the removed lid. It comes with a new, smaller reciever box that fits under the where I drew the arrow. There are also standoffs and screws that thread into the existing holes in the chassis.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  4. #44
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    This is the best picture I could find. You leave the cover off the stock reciever, the mount screws into the holes from the removed lid. It comes with a new, smaller reciever box that fits under the where I drew the arrow. There are also standoffs and screws that thread into the existing holes in the chassis.

    Now it makes sense!

    Who offers that ESC mount and box?
    Welcome To The Futures' Past!

  5. #45
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    It's these guys on Facebook. They are called B and M racing. I think the mount and box are 35$ in silver, 40$ for an anodized version. They make some pretty nice stuff. They have day jobs and what not and they are blowing up so it is a little difficult to get ahold of them.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  6. #46
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Eastern Shore, Maryland
    Posts
    3,828
    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    The Fuze youíre referring to is the Max 6 equivalent(160 amps). The Max5 is a 200 constant esc and 1600 burst. The XLX although not common knowledge is a 160amp esc, castle is known for underrating their gear and making a nice product.
    Good to know, thanks.
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  7. #47
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    Oh wow, I knew these motors were bigger, but didn't realize they were that big. I'm actually kind of nervous. Is this thing going to tear my truck apart? That's a 4275 for comparison sake. Sorry if this is old hat to you guys, I just never saw a 56xxx or 58xxx size motor in person. Kind of shocking.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  8. #48
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    867
    Yep, those 56 series motors are huge. Use your ESC to adjust the torque if you are afraid of breaking things. Get ready for wheelies.
    Catch my videos at youtube.com/c/offworkhours

  9. #49
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Oh wow, I knew these motors were bigger, but didn't realize they were that big.
    That is one fine looking piece of equipment right there!


    Is that the 780Kv motor that is 112mm long? What size bullet connectors were on the end of the motor leads? I was wondering because some manufacturers don't give you the option to select a bullet size and I was wondering if the Max 5 ESC is a 6.5 bullet or 8.0 bullet connection slot.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 04-26-2019 at 09:21 PM. Reason: Motor correction question.
    Welcome To The Futures' Past!

  10. #50
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    That is one fine looking piece of equipment right there!


    Is that the 780Kv motor that is 112mm long? What size bullet connectors were on the end of the motor leads? I was wondering because some manufacturers don't give you the option to select a bullet size and I was wondering if the Max 5 ESC is a 6.5 bullet or 8.0 bullet connection slot.
    Yeah that is the motor. It comes with 8.0mm bullets. Yes the max 5 uses 6.5mm bullets. I'll have to solder some castle 6.5mm bullets, I have to shorten the motor wires anyways, they are 200mm long, way too long.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  11. #51
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Yeah that is the motor. It comes with 8.0mm bullets. Yes the max 5 uses 6.5mm bullets. I'll have to solder some castle 6.5mm bullets, I have to shorten the motor wires anyways, they are 200mm long, way too long.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    That is odd that a 200 amp ESC would use the 6.5mm bullets slots when there is the Max 6 at 160 amps. I thought the bigger the bullet, the better transfer of power. Well at least they had it right on the motor, but geez a 6.5mm bullet slot on a 200 amp ESC?

    I know the 6.5mm bullets are rated pretty high (200 amps) but the 8.0mm bullets would have been nice to plug into the Max 5.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 04-26-2019 at 09:41 PM.
    Welcome To The Futures' Past!

  12. #52
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    That is odd that a 200 amp ESC would use the 6.5mm bullets slots when there is the Max 6 at 160 amps. I thought the bigger the bullet, the better transfer of power. Well at least they had it right on the motor, but geez a 6.5mm bullet slot on a 200 amp ESC?

    I know the 6.5mm bullets are rated pretty high but the 8.0mm bullets would have been nice to plug into the Max 5.
    Castle 6.5mm bullets are rated at 200amps. I think it will be fine.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  13. #53
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Castle 6.5mm bullets are rated at 200amps. I think it will be fine.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    I know, I added that in my previous post. The 8.0mm bullet connectors are rated for 300 amps and I always like to have my connection thresholds higher than what my hardware is rated at to prevent them from overload spikes that can loosen soldered joints from extreme heat build up.
    Welcome To The Futures' Past!

  14. #54
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    I plan on watching things very closely. I'm pretty confident everything will be alright. Running the max 5 with the stock motor and gearing nothing was even warm. Connectors were only 77, ESC 78, batteries 75, motor was 115. I'm getting a custom heatsink and shroud for the motor with dual 30,000rpm fans. I will watch things closely. Trying to be prepared for whatever.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  15. #55
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I plan on watching things very closely. I'm pretty confident everything will be alright. Running the max 5 with the stock motor and gearing nothing was even warm. Connectors were only 77, ESC 78, batteries 75, motor was 115. I'm getting a custom heatsink and shroud for the motor with dual 30,000rpm fans. I will watch things closely. Trying to be prepared for whatever.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    I'm pretty confident your setup will be fine also; in light of what I have read thus far. I enjoy you sharing this upgrade process and look forward to your results and the big smile I'm sure will come to your face when you pull that throttle trigger for the first time again. I'm learning a lot from your thread and I just want to make sure I'm able to swim if I dare to jump in!
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 04-26-2019 at 10:06 PM.
    Welcome To The Futures' Past!

  16. #56
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Eastern Shore, Maryland
    Posts
    3,828
    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I was wondering why you don't position your batteries 180į from what you have them at now? You could significantly reduce your battery-to-ESC wire length.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 04-27-2019 at 03:24 AM.
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  17. #57
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    3,972
    Totally agree with RG, but my question is with a motor with a KV that low, are you going straight to 1:1 gearing?

  18. #58
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Totally agree with RG, but my question is with a motor with a KV that low, are you going straight to 1:1 gearing?
    I got 25/35 coming today, I also ordered a 30 tooth pinion. I see what you guys are saying about my wiring. I was both excited to get it put together and nervous to be hacking wire on brand new components. I might revise it if things get toasty.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  19. #59
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I was both excited to get it put together and nervous to be hacking wire on brand new components. I might revise it if things get toasty.
    If you do decide to shorten wires, I highly recommend consulting with Hobbywing about shortening the ESC wires. Some manufacturers of ESC's highly chide shortening the ESC wires. Shortening battery wires is O.K. but I remember reading that shortening ESC wires is not recommended in some instances.
    Welcome To The Futures' Past!

  20. #60
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Eastern Shore, Maryland
    Posts
    3,828
    Some motors/ESC wires have copper at the end of their wires (that can be soldered), but something else (that can't be soldered) coming off of the motor windings to the copper. With these motors/ESC's if you shorten the wires past the copper, you cant solder your bullet connectors back on.

    There should be no problem with this with the Leopard/Castle motors/ESC's we all are using for our Xmaxx's. What I do (if I suspect a motor having this type of duel conductor wire); I cut a small piece of insulation away (where I want to terminate my wire), and try soldering the wire at that point. If it solders, I cut it and put on my connectors. If it doesn't, I cover the small exposed area with a small piece of shrink tubing, and no harm has been done.

    Generally speaking, I only see this duel conductor wire stuff on smaller motors/ESC's used for some of my helicopters and some of my friends smaller RC vehicles. I haven't (as of yet) seen it used on the motors/ESC's that I use for my 1/8 scale and bigger trucks, and my bigger helicopters.
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  21. #61
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    There should be no problem with this with the Leopard/Castle motors/ESC's we all are using for our Xmaxx's.
    The shortening of the ESC wires lowers the resistance of the wire and generally ESC manufacturers have a fixed length for their ESC wire leads for this reason. The longer the wire, the higher the resistance. I agree about your assessment with the wire coming off the motor windings; however, that isn't what I was getting at.

    And along similar lines...

    the wire length coming off the ESC was suggested by ESC manufacturers as having an impedance tolerance (the measure of the opposition that a circuit presents to a current when a voltage is applied.) So, shortening the wires of the ESC was frowned upon by ESC manufacturers for that reason also.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 04-28-2019 at 06:20 AM. Reason: Correction.
    Welcome To The Futures' Past!

  22. #62
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    I'm not going to shorten wires on the ESC as of right now. I already took an inch or 2 off the batteries when I put the CC connectors on. This isn't my permanent layout anyways. I want to put a good size reciever box up where the telemetry expander goes. I really don't like that I have to unmount the ESC to get to the rx box, and that i have to cram a fair amount of wires in a rx box that's about 60% of the size of the stock one. So all this will be revised and improved at some point. Motor wires are nice and floppy all the way to the motor so I think they are good. I will try RG's suggestion about a test solder just so I don't ruin a brand new motor. Got the new gears yesterday, I ordered a castle 2028 fan to tide me over until I get the sweet ones and of course my order got screwed up. I paid extra to get it on Saturday from Dollarhobbyz, was supposed to come USPS, for some reason they shipped it FedEx ground and it won't be here until Monday.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  23. #63
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    The setup looks pretty decent. The mount seems like it will do, although I like how the Kershaw is supported on the top too. I don't know that the mod 1.5 gears are necessary. Seem a bit overkill to me. Might look into the GDS mod 1 spur. Grip- what brand pinion you running on the GDS spur? I'm sure it's in your thread, but that thing is a novel at this point.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  24. #64
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I don't know that the mod 1.5 gears are necessary.
    That is kind of what I was thinking. If you would've got the 5898 can; then I could see the reason to maybe use the Mod 1.5 gears. They are thicker than what I thought as well.

    Edit: Wait a minute - your motor is rated at 180amps and 7500 watts. Are you going for the torque factor with that motor? I forget how it works for speed versus torque; but all I know is that you guys are running insane motors either way.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 04-28-2019 at 12:05 PM.
    Welcome To The Futures' Past!

  25. #65
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    That is kind of what I was thinking. If you would've got the 5898 can; then I could see the reason to maybe use the Mod 1.5 gears. They are thicker than what I thought as well.

    Edit: Wait a minute - your motor is rated at 180amps and 7500 watts. Are you going for the torque factor with that motor? I forget how it works for speed versus torque; but all I know is that you guys are running insane motors either way.
    I am going for torque and cool running. Every rc I own I run pretty low kv, big can motors. I run wide open alot in a relatively small area. Lots of heavy braking straight to full throttle, so heat is usually my enemy. Now that I said all that, the thing was running cool as a cucumber with the stock motor. Why I went this route, I'm not really sure anymore. Got the Xmaxx, dove in head first and this is where i am. I probably should of left well enough alone and just stayed stock. Curiosity killed the cat, but hopefully not the Xmaxx.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by nickruger; 04-28-2019 at 01:05 PM.

  26. #66
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    3,972
    My pinions cake from NovaRC(Kershaw). Iím not sure where he sourced them. The GDS and the hardened pinions are identical widths. Iíve had no issues since install

  27. #67
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    My pinions cake from NovaRC(Kershaw). Iím not sure where he sourced them. The GDS and the hardened pinions are identical widths. Iíve had no issues since install
    Thanks, I might pick a set of those up. I knew you had good luck with the gds parts, my gut told me to go with those, but I went the other way for some reason.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  28. #68
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    O.K. - Now you got me interested because of the way you did it. You have the ESC mounted up just high enough to clear the box so you didn't have to modify the chassis. I'm gonna have to steal that idea. I especially like it because you didn't mount the ESC to the rails so a crash won't destroy your caps on the ESC.

    Also, because I'm interested in how you did that, when you go to install your new components, could you snap a few shots of your ESC mount setup?
    Here is a better picture of the ESC mount. Like I said, not a fan the rx box being under there. Have to take everything apart just to disconnect the wires for the motor fans.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  29. #69
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Here is a better picture of the ESC mount. Like I said, not a fan the rx box being under there. Have to take everything apart just to disconnect the wires for the motor fans.

    Thank you so much! I just never seen the setup you have and regardless of the "Have to take everything apart" factor, I'm a fan of it because you didn't have to modify the chassis. Now I realize better with the pictures, exactly how far it is from the chassis bottom. Good picture taking!

    I just didn't want to put mine up on the rail skeleton and I didn't want to have to Dremel some of the chassis away either. It is a difficult decision when the time comes for me someday to decide how the Max 5 is going to be in mine.

    The ESC mounts I saw from China actually have the ESC sitting up so high that it makes me wonder how they are even selling those at all. I guess it is for people that don't realize how that ESC position (especially one as heavy as the Max 5) can make the difference between rolling your X-Maxx or making a successful razor turn.
    Welcome To The Futures' Past!

  30. #70
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    Some motors/ESC wires have copper at the end of their wires (that can be soldered), but something else (that can't be soldered) coming off of the motor windings to the copper. With these motors/ESC's if you shorten the wires past the copper, you cant solder your bullet connectors back on.

    There should be no problem with this with the Leopard/Castle motors/ESC's we all are using for our Xmaxx's. What I do (if I suspect a motor having this type of duel conductor wire); I cut a small piece of insulation away (where I want to terminate my wire), and try soldering the wire at that point. If it solders, I cut it and put on my connectors. If it doesn't, I cover the small exposed area with a small piece of shrink tubing, and no harm has been done.

    Generally speaking, I only see this duel conductor wire stuff on smaller motors/ESC's used for some of my helicopters and some of my friends smaller RC vehicles. I haven't (as of yet) seen it used on the motors/ESC's that I use for my 1/8 scale and bigger trucks, and my bigger helicopters.
    So the motor has 8 gauge wire. I cut one of the bullets off and it is super fine strand copper wire throughout. Before tinning the wire barely fits in the castle 6.5mm bullet. Plus the wire is so fine and flexible that you get alot of deformation just by cutting it. Not the easiest wire to work with, plus I'm a novice at doing solder work. 10 gauge wire on the ESC and batteries were pretty easy, this tested my patience without a doubt.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  31. #71
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    So the motor has 8 gauge wire. I cut one of the bullets off and it is super fine strand copper wire throughout. Before tinning the wire barely fits in the castle 6.5mm bullet. Plus the wire is so fine and flexible that you get alot of deformation just by cutting it. Not the easiest wire to work with, plus I'm a novice at doing solder work. 10 gauge wire on the ESC and batteries were pretty easy, this tested my patience without a doubt.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    I was pretty certain motors that big had the 8 gauge wire. Now you know why I was shocked to find out the Max 5 ESC has 6.5mm bullet receiver slots. Those ESC's were meant for 10 gauge wire because of the bullet size slots. Did you get all the strands of the 8 gauge wire in the 6.5mm bullets?
    Welcome To The Futures' Past!

  32. #72
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    I was pretty certain motors that big had the 8 gauge wire. Now you know why I was shocked to find out the Max 5 ESC has 6.5mm bullet receiver slots. Those ESC's were meant for 10 gauge wire because of the bullet size slots. Did you get all the strands of the 8 gauge wire in the 6.5mm bullets?
    Yes. It was pretty tedious, but I did get it. I was cutting the wire with good Klein lineman pliers, my actual cable cutters are at work, if I waited to bring those home it probably would of been a little easier.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  33. #73
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Yes. It was pretty tedious, but I did get it.

    Good to hear and know. Do you know off hand the gauge of the wire coming out of the ESC to the batteries? Probably 10 gauge, but in light of the 6.5mm bullet receiver slot surprise, now I'm curious.
    Welcome To The Futures' Past!

  34. #74
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Good to hear and know. Do you know off hand the gauge of the wire coming out of the ESC to the batteries? Probably 10 gauge, but in light of the 6.5mm bullet receiver slot surprise, now I'm curious.
    It is very nice 10 gauge wire. Good quality, easy to work with. The castle connectors were very easy to install on the hobbywing wire.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  35. #75
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    It is very nice 10 gauge wire. Good quality, easy to work with. The castle connectors were very easy to install on the hobbywing wire.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

    I can't thank you enough for sharing all this information. I know that you said you had the upgrade bug and just kind of jumped into this pretty fast. Hopefully, I am asking the right questions that can help others that want to upgrade or build from scratch as well.

    I know that it can get annoying with question after question, especially when you're right in the middle of upgrading this thing and have questions yourself. Good thing Grip and ReglarGuy are on the scene for ya!

    EDIT:

    I just looked at Gripdog's thread and it looks as though 8 AWG wire is coming out of the ESC to the batteries.......are you certain yours is 10 gauge?
    Page 3 and post #99 of his shows a real good close up of the wire.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 04-28-2019 at 08:36 PM.
    Welcome To The Futures' Past!

  36. #76
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,057
    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    I can't thank you enough for sharing all this information. I know that you said you had the upgrade bug and just kind of jumped into this pretty fast. Hopefully, I am asking the right questions that can help others that want to upgrade or build from scratch as well.

    I know that it can get annoying with question after question, especially when you're right in the middle of upgrading this thing and have questions yourself. Good thing Grip and ReglarGuy are on the scene for ya!

    EDIT:

    I just looked at Gripdog's thread and it looks as though 8 AWG wire is coming out of the ESC to the batteries.......are you certain yours is 10 gauge?
    Page 3 and post #99 of his shows a real good close up of the wire.
    Yep you are right. My mistake, it comes with a set of motor wires that are 10 gauge. I was mistaken. My apologies.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  37. #77
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    3,972
    This is a worth while read. Plenty of good information. Iíd like to see the rails on with the mount youíre using. Also as far as impedance goes. I seriously doubt itíll change with several inches of high grade wire. I could see if the wire was transitioning grade, or type.

  38. #78
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Yep you are right. My mistake, it comes with a set of motor wires that are 10 gauge. I was mistaken. My apologies.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

    No worries, I just wanted to make sure the gauge of wire throughout your installation was of the same gauge (or close to each other) and resistance.

    @Gripdog - Post number 37 of his has the rails on.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 04-28-2019 at 09:38 PM.
    Welcome To The Futures' Past!

  39. #79
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Eastern Shore, Maryland
    Posts
    3,828
    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    The shortening of the ESC wires lowers the resistance of the wire and generally ESC manufacturers have a fixed length for their ESC wire leads for this reason. The longer the wire, the higher the resistance. I agree about your assessment with the wire coming off the motor windings; however, that isn't what I was getting at.

    And along similar lines...

    the wire length coming off the ESC was suggested by ESC manufacturers as having an impedance tolerance (the measure of the opposition that a circuit presents to a current when a voltage is applied.) So, shortening the wires of the ESC was frowned upon by ESC manufacturers for that reason also.
    When I first got my Emaxx 10 years ago, I called Castle to ask them if I could shorten my ESC's battery input wires and my ESC's motor wires. He (Joe, who has helped me out many times in the past) said, that the shorter the wires the better. Shorter wires help reduce system heat. He also said, that the wire lengths they give with their motors/ESC's is for the adaptability to as many different RC vehicles as possible, and that he recommended shortening them as much as possible for my particular application. Of course, this made sense to me, because (as you say, and I agree) shorter wires equals less resistance to DC, and less impedance to AC.

    He went on to say (if possible for the best performance), that I should try to keep my battery-to-ESC wire lengths under 5 inches if no external filter caps are used, under 8 inches if external filtering caps (or, their CC Cap Pack) are used, and motor wire lengths under 3 inches if at all possible. I always check (both before and after shortening my wires) my batteries, ESC, and motor temps, and shortening all my wire lengths has always reduced my systems temps very noticeably.

    P.S. Castle (Joe), gave me a bunch of other technical information and stuff by email, but to keep my reply reasonably short (I didn't want to write a book here) I just gave only some of the highlights.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 04-29-2019 at 04:43 AM.
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  40. #80
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    3,972
    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    No worries, I just wanted to make sure the gauge of wire throughout your installation was of the same gauge (or close to each other) and resistance.

    @Gripdog - Post number 37 of his has the rails on.
    Ah. Look at me being lazy. Just one comment. I futaba tx/rx. Iíve never had to get into the box. Iíve got some lights coming and will have to. I donít see the placement of esc being bad, a little high, but not bad.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •