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  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    When I first got my Emaxx 10 years ago, I called Castle to ask them if I could shorten my ESC's battery input wires and my ESC's motor wires. He (Joe, who has helped me out many times in the past) said, that the shorter the wires the better. Shorter wires help reduce system heat. He also said, that the wire lengths they give with their motors/ESC's is for the adaptability to as many different RC vehicles as possible, and that he recommended shortening them as much as possible for my particular application. Of course, this made sense to me, because (as you say, and I agree) shorter wires equals less resistance to DC, and less impedance to AC.
    Over the years, I have read many heated discussions on many different forums about this topic. You would be surprised how many didn't know that AC plays a part in our brushless DC motors - after all, our motors still have magnets (super magnets now) and 10 years later, I still see the same guys debating the same topic but are in general agreement now instead of arguing.

    What has changed? Better ideas in the electronics field and this piece of information:

    A brushless DC electric motor (BLDC motor or BL motor), also known as electronically commutated motor (ECM or EC motor) and synchronous DC motors, are synchronous motors powered by DC electricity via an inverter or switching power supply which produces an AC electric current to drive each phase of the motor via a closed loop controller. The controller provides pulses of current to the motor windings that control the speed and torque of the motor.

    All in all, you and I are in agreement; but in a different way. What they suggested 10 years ago may or may not be relative in today's electronics; but the general principle is widely accepted as correct that shorter wires will give you less resistance thus for producing less heat in a closed loop system.
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  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Ah. Look at me being lazy. Just one comment. I futaba tx/rx. Iíve never had to get into the box. Iíve got some lights coming and will have to. I donít see the placement of esc being bad, a little high, but not bad.
    I never even ran the truck stock, so as far as ESC placement affecting handling I have no benchmarks except my setup and I'm happy with it. I got it new and bought the max 5 with the truck. I kind of had alot of stuff picked out before hand and just tore the thing apart when I got it. I guess realistically you really don't need to get into the rx box enough for me to be whining about it, it's also only 4 screws and I have enough wire that I don't neccesarily have to disconnect anything I don't want too. The mount fits like a glove, gears line up good. Overall everything has been a breeze as far as fit and installation, minus the 6.5mm bullets on the motor wire. The Xmaxx is such a joy to work on compared to say a slash 4x4, everything is so accessible. I did gave to cut the crossmember out of the chassis brace for the new motor. Here is a few picks of the fit.

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  3. #83
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    Over the years, I have read many heated discussions on many different forums about this topic.
    Don't worry. I'm a strong believer in maintaining civility when having a discussion. Let me tell you that they didn't have brushless motors back in my collage years, so I had to educate myself on them as I needed (just for my personal sake). I don't use them for my work, or anything like that. I just use them with all my RC stuff.

    All in all, you and I are in agreement; but in a different way. What they suggested 10 years ago may or may not be relative in today's electronics; but the general principle is widely accepted as correct that shorter wires will give you less resistance thus for producing less heat in a closed loop system.
    I do, now, understand their working, and I see no flaws in your above statement. I went a little deeper than what you did, though. Because of that, I still have to maintain my position with my original replies, (being able to, and the advantage of shortening most motor/ESC wires) for three reasons.

    One; due to the theory of how brushless motors work (which you gave some insight); two, how DC resistance and AC impedance works; and three (most important), because I still use (and see) the same Castle/Leopard products that I did when I first talked to Joe 10 years ago.

    You can bet your bottom last dollar (if I get something (motor or ESC) that has any newer technology than what I use now), I'll be sure to make a conscientious attempt to upgrade my research to include it. I'd do it for myself, and I'd also do it to have fun learning and helping my friends. So far though, from what I've seen in our Traxxas forums and internet surfing, I haven't seen any new radical RC technology changes in brushless motors and their ESC's.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 04-29-2019 at 09:55 AM.
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  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    I do, now, understand their working, and I see no flaws in your above statement. I went a little deeper than what you did, though.

    The forums wouldn't be the same without ya ReglarGuy! I always value your input and your posts have saved me several times from making mistakes with my RC's.
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  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I never even ran the truck stock, so as far as ESC placement affecting handling I have no benchmarks except my setup and I'm happy with it. I got it new and bought the max 5 with the truck. I kind of had alot of stuff picked out before hand and just tore the thing apart when I got it. I guess realistically you really don't need to get into the rx box enough for me to be whining about it, it's also only 4 screws and I have enough wire that I don't neccesarily have to disconnect anything I don't want too. The mount fits like a glove, gears line up good. Overall everything has been a breeze as far as fit and installation, minus the 6.5mm bullets on the motor wire. The Xmaxx is such a joy to work on compared to say a slash 4x4, everything is so accessible. I did gave to cut the crossmember out of the chassis brace for the new motor. Here is a few picks of the fit.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    I never had a stock truck either, so I have no experience or baseline with one. I will say, Iím putting lights on my truck. And I had to pull the motor and rails to get the wires to the rx. So thereís that.

  6. #86
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    Upon installing everything I ran into a pretty significant problem. I knew I was going to have to cut the cross bar out of the chassis brace to make room for the motor which was fine. Problem is the castle 2028 shroud doesn't fit between the rails of the chassis brace. I did get everything bolted back up but it is bulging out from the motor. I was only planning on running the castle blower until I get a permanent heatsink and fan, which is going to be narrower than the castle shroud. The gears went in nice, and the motor mount made setting the mesh a breeze. I think I probably would of been better of with a 30 tooth spur. The motor is sitting pretty high. Still a work in progress.

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  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    The forums wouldn't be the same without ya ReglarGuy! I always value your input and your posts have saved me several times from making mistakes with my RC's.
    Thank you for your words of encouragement Flux. Most of the guy here have been good to me too, so I try to return the favor and pay it foward.
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  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I did get everything bolted back up but it is bulging out from the motor.

    I was only planning on running the castle blower until I get a permanent heatsink and fan, which is going to be narrower than the castle shroud.
    I wonder if you could shave some of your rails thickness by using a Dremel tool/drum-sander to take some of the plastic off on the side of your rail that touches your motor. That way your motor would fit in better, and you could keep your support rail.

    Another thing to consider is that your Castle motor's case is made to be a big ol' heat sink, so you really don't need to put another heat sink on it's heat sink. I'd keep the Castle dual fan, but I'd trim it so that it rides higher on your motor. I think if you'd do that you could get everything in with out any bulges.

    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 05-02-2019 at 04:00 AM.
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  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Upon installing everything I ran into a pretty significant problem. I knew I was going to have to cut the cross bar out of the chassis brace to make room for the motor which was fine. Problem is the castle 2028 shroud doesn't fit between the rails of the chassis brace. I did get everything bolted back up but it is bulging out from the motor. I was only planning on running the castle blower until I get a permanent heatsink and fan, which is going to be narrower than the castle shroud. The gears went in nice, and the motor mount made setting the mesh a breeze. I think I probably would of been better of with a 30 tooth spur. The motor is sitting pretty high. Still a work in progress.

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    Looks really good so far. My castle shroud did the same thing. I ended up mounting it to the rails before I ditched it, in favor of what I have now.

  10. #90
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    I put my Castle fans on my rails too.
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  11. #91
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    Alright, so I got a chance to run the truck in my backyard today which is pretty much a mud pit right now. There is some good and bad.

    Good- temperatures:
    Motor- 72f on the can, 90f on the end caps
    ESC- 75f on the ESC body, 88f directly on the caps
    Batteries- 77f
    Gears: the gears are awesome, quiet for mod 1.5, show no wear at all.

    Bad: it is ridiculously powerful. I'm not sure what the default setting for punch is set at, but for me it is borderline not fun it is so fast. In 6 inches of mud I was having trouble giving it good throttle without immediately getting it airborne or on one back wheel. I'll have to see if I can get it tuned down to something manageable or I will be switching back to stock or maybe a 5692 of a similar kv.

    Overall I think I just over did it. I knew there would be a big difference, but nothing like this. So, for somebody looking for stupid power, I see the max5 and this motor as a pretty hard to beat setup for 330$. Little pic to get an idea of conditions.

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  12. #92
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    I think if you upgrade your tires and wheels to Proline Badlands or trenchers, youíll
    Keep the truck more manageable. Thereís something to be said about wheel weight, In This case. Iíve never had stock tires so I canít verify this. Iíve never thought, this thing is too much, just too much fun.

  13. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    I think if you upgrade your tires and wheels to Proline Badlands or trenchers, youíll
    Keep the truck more manageable. Thereís something to be said about wheel weight, In This case. Iíve never had stock tires so I canít verify this. Iíve never thought, this thing is too much, just too much fun.
    You're more of man than me then. I think I also need to try a 20 tooth pinion and take it to a bigger place to run. I like the stock tires actually. The Badlands are heavier than stock I think. I've been eyeing them.

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  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    You're more of man than me then. I think I also need to try a 20 tooth pinion and take it to a bigger place to run. I like the stock tires actually. The Badlands are heavier than stock I think. I've been eyeing them.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    They are heavier, balloon less, hook up better, but each has its place. Ive found no drop on power from 54 to 46 spur, and 29 to 37 pinion. Motor just keeps pulling. Gearing up does help with wheelies though. X-Maxx in stock form has too much suspension travel to run much over 60 imo. As other have pointed out, itís not a speed runner by nature

  15. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Overall I think I just over did it.
    I'm proud of you dude! I can tell you're the kind of guy that never ever gets confused about which bathroom to use. You're all guy my friend. (lol)

    Now, about toning it down a bit, I wonder if running it on 6s would put in the performance area you want. If so, you could keep everything as is, and your batteries and overall maintenance costs would be cheaper. (IMO) installing heavier wheels, with that kind of power, is only going to put more torque on your drive train components.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 05-06-2019 at 04:04 AM.
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  16. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    I'm proud of you dude! I can tell you're the kind of guy that never ever gets confused about which bathroom to use. You're all guy my friend. (lol)

    Now, about toning it down a bit, I wonder if running it on 6s would put in the performance area you want. If so, you could keep everything as is, and your batteries and overall maintenance costs would be cheaper. (IMO) installing heavier wheels, with that kind of power, is only going to put more torque on your drive train components.
    Never even thought about that. I already have a set of 3s SMCs that I bought for my 2.0 that I didn't like. They just sit. Might as well try them. I had 2 sets, sold one, held on to the other, maybe this is why.

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  17. #97
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    Hobbystar 56112 950kv

    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    I'm proud of you dude! I can tell you're the kind of guy that never ever gets confused about which bathroom to use. You're all guy my friend. (lol)

    Now, about toning it down a bit, I wonder if running it on 6s would put in the performance area you want. If so, you could keep everything as is, and your batteries and overall maintenance costs would be cheaper. (IMO) installing heavier wheels, with that kind of power, is only going to put more torque on your drive train components.
    True statement. I have made accommodations for my trucks extra weight. Iím not sorry having nicer/heavier wheels and tires, they suit my needs. But everyone is different.
    Last edited by Gripdog7205; 05-06-2019 at 08:19 AM.

  18. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    True statement. I have made accommodations for my trucks extra weight. I’m not sorry having nicer/heavier wheels and tires, they suit my needs. But everyone is different.
    I have the Proline wheels too, and like you, I like them a lot. I have a V1 Xmaxx with modified electronics, running 6s, so running heavier wheels hasn't been a problem for me.
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  19. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Alright, so I got a chance to run the truck in my backyard today which is pretty much a mud pit right now. There is some good and bad.

    Good- temperatures:
    Motor- 72f on the can, 90f on the end caps
    ESC- 75f on the ESC body, 88f directly on the caps
    Batteries- 77f
    Gears: the gears are awesome, quiet for mod 1.5, show no wear at all.

    Bad: it is ridiculously powerful. I'm not sure what the default setting for punch is set at, but for me it is borderline not fun it is so fast. In 6 inches of mud I was having trouble giving it good throttle without immediately getting it airborne or on one back wheel. I'll have to see if I can get it tuned down to something manageable or I will be switching back to stock or maybe a 5692 of a similar kv.

    Overall I think I just over did it. I knew there would be a big difference, but nothing like this. So, for somebody looking for stupid power, I see the max5 and this motor as a pretty hard to beat setup for 330$. Little pic to get an idea of conditions....[/IMG]

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    I like your honesty. People that have not driven an 8S vehicle on a low KV motor for the weight of the vehicle do not understand how much power those motors make when they are geared up. You have to have a legitimate wheelie bar for that kind of power or enough room to increase the speed gradually. It is great if you want a speed run vehicle, but unless you have massive jumps and equivalent funds to repair broken vehicles it quickly stops being fun.
    Catch my videos at youtube.com/c/offworkhours

  20. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Alright, so I got a chance to run the truck in my backyard today which is pretty much a mud pit right now. There is some good and bad.

    Good- temperatures:
    Motor- 72f on the can, 90f on the end caps
    ESC- 75f on the ESC body, 88f directly on the caps
    Batteries- 77f
    Gears: the gears are awesome, quiet for mod 1.5, show no wear at all.

    Bad: it is ridiculously powerful. I'm not sure what the default setting for punch is set at, but for me it is borderline not fun it is so fast. In 6 inches of mud I was having trouble giving it good throttle without immediately getting it airborne or on one back wheel. I'll have to see if I can get it tuned down to something manageable or I will be switching back to stock or maybe a 5692 of a similar kv.

    Overall I think I just over did it. I knew there would be a big difference, but nothing like this. So, for somebody looking for stupid power, I see the max5 and this motor as a pretty hard to beat setup for 330$. Little pic to get an idea of conditions.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    Get some badlands and it’ll be more manageable,I also running 1,5M geared 30/30 with 8pole motor 960kv and it’s insanely fast and lots of torque,but I will be switch motor to leopard 58113 870kv and maybe gear up to 25/47 or 35/30
    "AVENGED SEVENFOLD "

  21. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    True statement. I have made accommodations for my trucks extra weight. Iím not sorry having nicer/heavier wheels and tires, they suit my needs. But everyone is different.
    What kind of accommodations did you make for the weight? I have the heaviest springs traxxas makes on all four corners, 60wt up front, 70wt in back. Did you do any driveline upgrades or mods? Is my suspension maybe to stiff, part of the power management problem maybe? I also have a futaba 4pv, maybe I should throw a reciever in it so I can tone down my throttle and stuff.

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  22. #102
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    I have 1.4 springs in the front, 60wt, rear 1.5 60wt. 500k Diff oil. Upgraded center shaft and GDS spur. I can list what Iíve done, but no, Iím not. I have a thread on my build, if
    You can glean anything good or bad from it Iíll be glad.

  23. #103
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    I have 1.4 springs in the front, 60wt, rear 1.5 60wt. 500k Diff oil. Upgraded center shaft and GDS spur. I can list what Iíve done, but no, Iím not. I have a thread on my build, if
    You can glean anything good or bad from it Iíll be glad.
    I read it from front to back, twice. I wasn't considering those accommodations, thought you did something that wasn't in there, not sure why you are being snarky all the sudden, moving on.

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  24. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I read it from front to back, twice. I wasn't considering those accommodations, thought you did something that wasn't in there, not sure why you are being snarky all the sudden, moving on.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    I was just tired. Started typing, then stopped. My bad man. Don’t give up on me.

    *Refrain from alcoholic references
    Last edited by Double G; 05-09-2019 at 07:36 PM.

  25. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    I was just tired. Started typing, then stopped. My bad man. Don’t give up on me.
    No worries, I just woke up, was feeling a little fragile. Moving on was meant I'm over it, not you. It's cool.

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    Last edited by Double G; 05-09-2019 at 07:36 PM.

  26. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    No worries, I just woke up, was feeling a little fragile. Moving on was meant I'm over it, not you. It's cool.

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    Only thing Iím considering at the moment is some GPM hardened steel stub axles, Iíve bent an aluminum one. Iím worried about the rust factor though.

  27. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Only thing Iím considering at the moment is some GPM hardened steel stub axles, Iíve bent an aluminum one. Iím worried about the rust factor though.
    Have you ever used this? It is a life saver. Dries on it's own, repels dirt on plastics and metals, prevents rust. It's a little pricey, but to me it's worth it. That's a big can, usually lasts me about 3 months. To me, worth every penny. Makes your plastics look brand new too.

    https://www.amazon.com/Muc-Off-Multi.../dp/B01M9DYPHK

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  28. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Have you ever used this? It is a life saver. Dries on it's own, repels dirt on plastics and metals, prevents rust. It's a little pricey, but to me it's worth it. That's a big can, usually lasts me about 3 months. To me, worth every penny. Makes your plastics look brand new too.

    https://www.amazon.com/Muc-Off-Multi.../dp/B01M9DYPHK

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    Never heard of it. Iíve got dry lube. But itís not the same as what you linked. Thanks for the heads up. Iím sure Iíll get some

  29. #109
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    So anybody with a max 5 and big motor, what do you run your punch setting at? I guess default is 3, mine will do a standing back flip if I'm too aggressive. I think I'm going to turn it all the way down to one. If it's still to much, I think I'm going to put a futaba rx in so i can tune it down that way.

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  30. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    So anybody with a max 5 and big motor, what do you run your punch setting at? I guess default is 3, mine will do a standing back flip if I'm too aggressive. I think I'm going to turn it all the way down to one. If it's still to much, I think I'm going to put a futaba rx in so i can tune it down that way.

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    I ran 5 for a while till I got the 10500 SMCís. Itís a bit much. I went to 1, itís more manageable, Iím at 2 now and really like it. I do have Futaba gear so I could do it that way as well.

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    I have mine set to 5 and ya it’s a lot of wheelies!!
    @Gripdog,Which Futuba rx you using?does it work with the traxxas tx?
    "AVENGED SEVENFOLD "

  32. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by PATS4LIFE View Post
    I have mine set to 5 and ya itís a lot of wheelies!!
    @Gripdog,Which Futuba rx you using?does it work with the traxxas tx?
    I believe he is using the 3pv transmitter with a R304SB reciever. No the traxxas transmitter won't work with the Futaba reciever. All the adjustments are made via the transmitter anyways. I run a Futaba 4pv and the R304SB-E which is an internal antenna reciever, in 5 other trucks and it's a great system. 3pv is very good for the money too. Really can't go wrong with either. Receivers are a little pricey, that's about the only down side. Also, how are you guys running on punch setting 5? I literally haven't gotten over quarter throttle with this thing since I put the motor in. Even if I'm rolling at say 20 mph or so, I can't even roll into the throttle without wanting to flip over if I go over that.

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    Last edited by nickruger; 05-22-2019 at 10:40 AM.

  33. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I believe he is using the 3pv transmitter with a R304SB reciever. No the traxxas transmitter won't work with the Futaba reciever. All the adjustments are made via the transmitter anyways. I run a Futaba 4pv and the R304SB-E which is an internal antenna reciever, in 5 other trucks and it's a great system. 3pv is very good for the money too. Really can't go wrong with either. Receivers are a little pricey, that's about the only down side. Also, how are you guys running on punch setting 5? I literally haven't gotten over quarter throttle with this thing since I put the motor in. Even if I'm rolling at say 20 mph or so, I can't even roll into the throttle without wanting to flip over if I go over that.

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    Oh ok cool thanks,I’ll probably go with 4pv also was thinking of the 6channel flysky gt5
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  34. #114
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    I can't catch a break with this thing. I'm really wishing I would of just built it. Got my program card today, was excited to tune the ESC to my liking, powered the truck on, servo is screaming for its life. Disconnect the linkage, steering turns nice and free. Servo is locked up solid, screaming for its life. No response from transmitter, will shut up if I turn the transmitter off. I guess it's time to pull it out and upgrade yet another component. I am a traxxas supporter, but something has to give with these faulty electronics. I know they will likely warranty the servo, but after the erevo 2.0 fiasco, and now this has me pretty much done with RTRs. I just wish they would offer roller kits like they finally did with the stampede 4x4, would save alot of headaches and disappointment hoping to actually get something out of the stock electronics.

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  35. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by PATS4LIFE View Post
    I have mine set to 5 and ya itís a lot of wheelies!!
    @Gripdog,Which Futuba rx you using?does it work with the traxxas tx?
    I think itís a 304SB. I have a couple but they stay in the RX box.

  36. #116
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I can't catch a break with this thing. I'm really wishing I would of just built it. Got my program card today, was excited to tune the ESC to my liking, powered the truck on, servo is screaming for its life. Disconnect the linkage, steering turns nice and free. Servo is locked up solid, screaming for its life. No response from transmitter, will shut up if I turn the transmitter off. I guess it's time to pull it out and upgrade yet another component. I am a traxxas supporter, but something has to give with these faulty electronics. I know they will likely warranty the servo, but after the erevo 2.0 fiasco, and now this has me pretty much done with RTRs. I just wish they would offer roller kits like they finally did with the stampede 4x4, would save alot of headaches and disappointment hoping to actually get something out of the stock electronics.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    Mine wasnít cost effective, but Iíve got many fewer gripes than you guys that try to modify stock gear.

  37. #117
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Mine wasnít cost effective, but Iíve got many fewer gripes than you guys that try to modify stock gear.
    Yeah I hear you. I kind of priced it out, from buying components, or a decent roller and it started getting out of hand before the list was even complete. I'm past that now. Oh well, live and learn. Kind of sad it will be down for the long weekend. I guess I'll have to go blow the dust off something else, and try to decide which direction I'm going for a servo.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  38. #118
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Sweet, they won't cover my 3 run old servo or my tire.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  39. #119
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    So traxxas did to decide to give me a set of tires. They emailed me after I went to the LHS and got a set of badlands. You guys running the badlands tape them? I bought them unmounted so I could if need be. I have roll of the wide gorilla tape I use on all my 3.8 tires.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  40. #120
    RC Champion
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    So traxxas did to decide to give me a set of tires. They emailed me after I went to the LHS and got a set of badlands. You guys running the badlands tape them? I bought them unmounted so I could if need be. I have roll of the wide gorilla tape I use on all my 3.8 tires.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    No need to tape them,you would barely notice any ballooning on badlands,even with running big power motors.
    "AVENGED SEVENFOLD "

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