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  1. #1
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    Tearing down and clean up, found issues.

    So in tearing down car. To clean it up from last 2 wkends at the beach. Preping for some bearing repacking. And diff fluid replacement. Found my rear center drive line is warped. And was rubbing chassis #8655

    In my searching doesn't seem like anyone has had this yet.

    Is the 5650r ( steel constant velocity) driveshaft worth it?

    The plastic one is cheap enough not a big deal to replace. 7$. But the 5650 is $40ish.

    Seems like more issues to transfer to front and rear diffs

    Hard to tell at this point but 8684 output gear on center diff may be bent some,

    And possibly 8679 (output shaft to ring gear,. Parts explosion lists same part# for ring gear. May be bent.

    Spur gear has some wooble to it.

    If just bashing worth while to fix?

    Any ideas on keeping sand out of the center driveshaft area?

    Plan on taking center diff apart to clean, feels like some sand is in there.

    Lhs don't seem to have 20m Weight oil. 2wks to get when ordering it..

    Motor bearings need replacing. Research a ton last night but was unable to find anything. Specific. Did find castle motor bearings. Guess I'll have to pull them and check the numbers on them to order.



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  2. #2
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    Wow what a difference in front vs rear diffs on tear down. Wish I remembered to take pics

    Front diff I rebuilt in Sept or so. Due to broken ring gear. I had filled diff housing with automotive bearing grease as I had alot of it on hand.

    On tear down, all bearings still butter smooth. ( All bearings were replaced with black rubber sear bearings from lhs. ) Diff oil was pretty low to non existent. But think due to the rubber seal on one end didn't hold. Other seal was clean. Inside diff housing has very little dirt to none.

    Rear diff..... Was still stock. First bearing from driveshaft. Was so crunchy. Also rusted to the gear shaft. Took me about a hour+ to force it off. Gear looks good. Thankfully. So much crude inside housing. Was wet as well with water. Number of things starting to rust... All bearings needed replaced. Diff housing torn up that holds bearings closes to drive shaft.

    Drive cup grub screw striped out on rear. Took me about 2h to drill the screw out. What a pita.

    Replaced diff oil with 30k wt, as what I had on hand.

    Got water proof Marine grease from Bel Ray today. That was recommended elsewhere on forums for bearings. Will pack my diff housings with that. Also plan to replace bearings with it as well.

    Plan on putting a nice protective coating on outside of bearings for diffs to keep dirt out. Since how well my front looked from over packing diff housing might as well go for it.

    Anyone have a good bearing grease tool? "The greaser" looked awesome but no longer sold. Rest I found were for larger automotive bearings.

    I've yet to rebuild shocks.. had rig since July perhaps 30+ packs figure may be time...

    Any recommendations on shock oil weight. I currently have blue springs rear and tan front. Change springs last week. Seemed to work ok at the beach.

    I got 60, 45 and 35wt on hand.

    Debating on tearing down center diff to repack bearings or replace. Since I just bash.. the little bit of bearing cruncyness may be ok for now... Sill spins ok but can hear / feel it when I spin it up.

    What's your favorite solvent for cleaning bearings and other greased up parts? Brake cleaner worked best out of acetone, denatured alcohol, turpatine, carb cleaner.

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    Last edited by Acidic01; 04-24-2019 at 11:57 PM.

  3. #3
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    Nothing wrong with brake cleaner to clean all the old grease and gunk out. Also Avid Rc is a good place for replacement bearings I have been using them for years.


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  4. #4
    Traxxas Employee
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    So in tearing down car. To clean it up from last 2 wkends at the beach. Preping for some bearing repacking. And diff fluid replacement. Found my rear center drive line is warped. And was rubbing chassis #8655

    In my searching doesn't seem like anyone has had this yet.

    Is the 5650r ( steel constant velocity) driveshaft worth it?

    The plastic one is cheap enough not a big deal to replace. 7$. But the 5650 is $40ish.

    Seems like more issues to transfer to front and rear diffs

    Hard to tell at this point but 8684 output gear on center diff may be bent some,

    And possibly 8679 (output shaft to ring gear,. Parts explosion lists same part# for ring gear. May be bent.

    Spur gear has some wooble to it.

    If just bashing worth while to fix?

    Any ideas on keeping sand out of the center driveshaft area?

    Plan on taking center diff apart to clean, feels like some sand is in there.

    Lhs don't seem to have 20m Weight oil. 2wks to get when ordering it..

    Motor bearings need replacing. Research a ton last night but was unable to find anything. Specific. Did find castle motor bearings. Guess I'll have to pull them and check the numbers on them to order.



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    5650R is for the E-Revo 1.0. The metal center driveshafts for the E-Revo 2.0 are 8655R.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by fj40fanatic View Post
    5650R is for the E-Revo 1.0. The metal center driveshafts for the E-Revo 2.0 are 8655R.
    The 5650R is listed as a optional part in my parts list and explosion diagram that came with my car... Guess it's a typeo.


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  6. #6
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    Car is finally back together.

    Replaced, or cleaned and repacked every bearing on the car.

    Wheel hub bearings were holding up a lot better than expected. I'd go through wheel bearings every few months on my nitro Slayer pro quite often. They still got a cleaning though. Cleaned and lube axel pins. Way smother now.

    Lhs had all a lot of metal seal bearing options so center diff got all metal seal bearings. Did have some water in the center diff housing. Not much stock grease.

    Didn't open center diff carrier housing,. Since none of the 4 lhs has 20mil Wt. It seemed pretty stiff still.

    Motor bearings were horrible. Call to Traxxas says to just exchange the motor can't replace bearings

    yes you can replaces those bearings on the trx 2200kv. Stock bearings are nmb r-1650hh (5x16x5) metal seals. Closest mom n pop Lhs had them! yay to my lhs ! Only cost me $4.50 for 4 of them. Need 2.

    New motor bearings were a pita install. glad I bought extras. The bearing by the pinion gear can't be pressed in by hand or makeshift tool I destroyed 2 trying. The end trick was seat it a little by hand. Then put the rotor back in. Put the back cap and rotor on. Get back cap aligned then slap the end of the end cap into the can. This seated the bearings in properly.

    I put a piece of tape over the end of the motor cap to protect that bearing from gunk. That was the worse one.

    Motor mount screw striped.... Didn't bother fixing..

    The shock oil sure was dirty. Cleaned and put 45wt shock oil in. Since guess stock is 40wt. May go to 60wt after some jump tests.

    Shock bump stops pretty warn out. One was installed by factory backwards. I'll wait till they totally fail to replace.

    Servo saver bearings were horrible, and saver housing so rough from sand getting in there. All cleaned up.

    Put in a new stock plastic drive line.

    Put in Bluetooth module, and motor temp sensor.

    Have a replacement plastic skid plate on hand in once mine finally get to bad. As some life to them still for the moment.

    Road tested some tonight. Seems lot peppier. And more traction. Street to dark to play much.

    Next up to test the car on some speed runs. See if my issue of stage 1 lvc on wot is fixed. On the one little trial I did. The bt link app said I had 90amp max load. So if had a almost frozen motor bearings and a bent driveline. Could of been drawing to much amps and forced a lvc...... not sure what the vxl-6s max amp draw is....

    I was assuming it was my poor battery connectors that need replacing was why I was getting lvc at wot.

    After speed run testing I'll replace my battery connectors from trx to xt90s connectors.

    2 - 5400 3s 135Amps/90C smc battery's show up Monday.



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  7. #7
    RC Champion
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    Let me know if those 5400 3s packs fit. I talked w Danny from SMC and he said they are too tall for the E Revo 2.0 battery pocket/tray. So my newest set to save on weight I went with are the 4500 3s. So I use the 7200 3s and the 4500 3s packs in my truck. Fingers crossed for you they fit!
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  8. #8
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    I didn't check to see if the sizes of those smc packs would fit... Didn't even think of that.. do know it was a hair bigger than my lectron.

    I'll let you know if I do manage to make them fit.

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  9. #9
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    On speed run test. Still get lvc stage one at wot on a fresh pack. Link app said it hit 105amp draw

    Swapping out connectors now.



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  10. #10
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    Changed connectors to xt90s they feel more soild.

    On road speed run still get stage 1 lvc.

    Took car out to a rock quarry over wkend Never hit lvc when speed running. Link app said it hit top speed the same as on road... Not as much useable distance at wot.

    No idea why on road I'll hit lvc stage 1 at wot.



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  11. #11
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    That is weird... you get your new SMC packs yet?
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  12. #12
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    They got delivered to my Po box. I've yet to pick them up. If battery tray is 30mm battery is 37mm tall. Pretty sure a no go. Smc says to ship them back and they will credit me. Thinking of just shipping right back box unopened, and not testing fit. As my po box location is also drop location for all shippers. Save me a trip back.

    Looks like only the 4500mha 3s packs will fit. Hoping for a bit more mha but is what it is ...

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  13. #13
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    Man sorry to hear that...sorry I didn't catch you ahead of time. I personally am running the 4500's...and chose them over my 7200's on most occasions now. My 4500's seem to do great for my road racing and speed runs. I think you will like them.
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  14. #14
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    No worries I should of been looking harder at size specs. I was just looking at length. And what was similar to my current batteries, those 5400 we're a bit bigger length and height. Kinda just thought they fit. Really didn't even think of it until you mentioned it.... lesson learned.
    Interesting the prices went up after I ordered..

    Glad you have been liking your packs. Yet to order the 4500mha. Thinking of also ordering 2 packs of the 3s for my Merv.
    It said they fit on description for the Merv. So easy there lol.



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  15. #15
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    I finally got my smc 4500 packs. Tight fitting. I've yet to run it all the way down only a half pack.

    Speed run testings. Wow so much more power than my lectron 50c 5200mha 3s

    What a big difference a 90c pack makes.

    No lvc at all at wot. So must be my batteries not handling the current draw.. they play fine bashing. But street wot speed runs are a no go.

    Lectrons got me to 37mph on the link app
    Smcs got me to 47mph could probably go faster...
    Even at 3/4 throttle speed run can get it to wheelie.

    Running into the issue of car tracks horrible at wot. One front tire is even picking up into the air more than the other and car starts to wobble. So I have to back off throttle so I don't run it into a curb

    I bashed it pretty good at a rock quarry. Some good crashes after 15ft drops. other week and never looked it over for damages. So sure somethings out of whack.

    Can't wait to see what my top speed can be on the smc batteries. Probably end up ordering another set.



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  16. #16
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    Glad you like em! I love mine. My 4500s get run all the time where my 7200s sit in their lipo sacks in my ammo can...lol.
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  17. #17
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    sorry for slightly off topic but the smc site has an option for 'traxxas style 1st gen' connectors. I assume that will work with any new traxxas car? I hadn't heard of them yet and their prices look a lot more reasonable than the traxxas and common sense batteries I have been buying locally. I like supporting local when I can but I am kicking myself for spending so much on batteries when I could have ordered online and saved a few hundred bucks in total by now.

  18. #18
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    Yes that style connectors will work with the stock set up. It's the 1st Gen trx connectors vs what trx has now with the Id sense or whatever they call it so you don't have to have a balance charge cable when charging. I've always used 3rd party lipos. With a balance charging cable

    I agree on supporting the lhs but some things just don't make sense to buy there... My lhs wants 40$ for a 3s lipo by traxxas for my Merv... Smc has em for 21$ a buck or two is ok but 2x the cost.... I'll go online..

    If do buy from smc only the 4500mha hard pack in 3s will fit the 2.0 I didn't look at 2s packs. 2.0 is 50mmwide 30mm tall and 160mm long. Don't go over or it won't fit period. Smc customer service has been decent for me as well.

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  19. #19
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    good stuff, thanks for all the info.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    I didn't check to see if the sizes of those smc packs would fit... Didn't even think of that.. do know it was a hair bigger than my lectron.

    I'll let you know if I do manage to make them fit.

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    Try removing the clips from the inside of the battery compartments. That might free up enough room to allow them to fit.

    Da Beav

  21. #21
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    I don't have any clips. In my battery compartment. The 4500mha are 30mm tall and that's all that will fit. The 5400 was 37mm tall. Would be no way to make the 5400mha fit.

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  22. #22
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    7200s will fit..I have those as well...SMC has them for pre-order again.
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