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  1. #1
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    3S problems with stripping...

    My fun this morning was short lived.

    Slash 2wd on 3S, a 4600kv motor, 16T/90T slipper clutch gear ratios, spool and CVD axles. I have the aluminum hexes, fancy serrated wheel nuts, CVD threads have factory loctite and I torqued the wheels nut as hard as I could.
    AFAIK, that's about all you can do to keep the wheels from stripping out.

    For some reason it's always the back right as well. Four out of four times... The first time was with the plastic hex and the nut backed off. Visually the plastic hex looked ok but that was probably a mistake. The next two was probably because my plastic hex was starting to round as well. The third wheel on the plastic hex made the hex round as the wheels.
    Fast forward to today, got aluminum hexes and the serrated wheel nuts put on the toy truck. Excited for 3S fun finally, I go out for a little bashing. Truck stops moving on one side... yup. The nut backed off and rounded out yet ANOTHER wheel on the back right.

    Should I gear up to reduce the torque multiplier? Give up on the 3S power? Have lots of spare wheels and just prepare to switch tires constantly?

    Pics 1-3 show old OG rounded wheels and rounded hex

    Pics 4-5 show old OG hex and a broken pin. Broken pin is from the better looking hex

    Pic 6 shows this morning's destruction

    Pic 7 shows some damage from another wheel, this was done on a little 2s use as well as 3s w/ 23/86 pinion spur gear ratios

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  2. #2
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    You have the diff locked with a spool? If so, where is all that stress of one tire spinning faster than the other going to go?
    The Super Derecho

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    You have the diff locked with a spool? If so, where is all that stress of one tire spinning faster than the other going to go?
    Yup...

    Also, how often are you checking your wheels tight? Gotten tired of replacing wheels and hexes, I have made checking the wheels nuts part of my battery install procedure.

    One thing that will help is to go to all aluminum hexes, this will take away a major point of flex in your drive train.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  4. #4
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Over tightening wheel nuts to fix stripping will cause a plastic rim and hex to suffer deformation resulting commonly in stripping both. The only fix is either NOT to over tightening the wheel nuts with Locktite plus 12 hours cure time or 17mm hex upgrade. Metal 12mm hex will just postpones the results of using a spool.

    Spools are meant for one time uses on a track where you breakdown the vehicle also every race and replace any wear parts like hexs. It is used when breaking parts is better than losing .01 of a second.

    IMHO anything 3s or higher should be on 17mm wheel hex. It is a small price to pay for alleviation of the problem and now with removable hex rims there is no reason not to.

    Also understanding torque twisting explains why the right rear is the victim.

  5. #5
    Traxxas Employee nixhex32's Avatar
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    Running a spool can be fine, IF he sets the slipper clutch right. Something has to give and with the slipper to tight its gonna be the spur gear (if still plastic), plastic hexes or plastic wheel hubs. The other thing that might give up is the top shaft pin.
    Slash 4x4 lcg(heavily modded), Telluride(modded)gone, TCP, Monster Buggy, Latrax SST(heavily modded), Spartan, "My Summit" pic of that posted in the gallery........and some other things.

  6. #6
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    @double g - id assume theyd spin? i mostly run on dusty/sandy astro turf or grass. not exactly any 'high grip' scenarios, unless those are considered high grip. even when i run on pavement/brick/concrete 3S blows the tires up instantly as is... maybe educate me on what surfaces are high grip?

    @greatscott - everytime i put them on and almost everytime after i go bashing. i have aluminum hexes, not sure if you missed that in the OP.

    @zedora - are spools really that destructive? i got it since i figured it would be stronger after blowing up my OG diff gears. they were properly blown up...

    @nixhex32 - lol, well my slipper clutch is 110% locked up and has no give... which is how i like it, id rather control the truck with my finger than have the slipper clutch do its thing.

  7. #7
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slow_and_solo View Post
    @double g - id assume theyd spin? i mostly run on dusty/sandy astro turf or grass. not exactly any 'high grip' scenarios, unless those are considered high grip. even when i run on pavement/brick/concrete 3S blows the tires up instantly as is... maybe educate me on what surfaces are high grip?

    @greatscott - everytime i put them on and almost everytime after i go bashing. i have aluminum hexes, not sure if you missed that in the OP.

    @zedora - are spools really that destructive? i got it since i figured it would be stronger after blowing up my OG diff gears. they were properly blown up...

    @nixhex32 - lol, well my slipper clutch is 110% locked up and has no give... which is how i like it, id rather control the truck with my finger than have the slipper clutch do its thing.
    It isn't the spool that is so destructive it is the 3s battery. Without a slipper clutch to save the parts then parts will break. I would suggest 17mm hex and not completely locking the slipper down but yes tighten is down to near locked so it doesn't slip on you as far as you can tell. Then it might at least slip before breakage.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    It isn't the spool that is so destructive it is the 3s battery. Without a slipper clutch to save the parts then parts will break. I would suggest 17mm hex and not completely locking the slipper down but yes tighten is down to near locked so it doesn't slip on you as far as you can tell. Then it might at least slip before breakage.
    I guess its time to start adjusting that :/ small price to pay for more use out of the truck.

    I'm pretty much settled on getting a 17mm hex if it's as good as everything says it is. Sucks that I have so much normal SCT tires that'll pretty much go to waste but if it's cheaper in the long run hen what else can I do?

    Also, would you suggest that I get another spool or a set of gears for the diff?

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  9. #9
    RC Champion NYbandit33's Avatar
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    You should have no issues running that truck with 12mm plastic hexes on 3s. I would take the spool out, put in stock tranny parts, loosen the slipper clutch and go from there
    Monster Baja Sla2h VXL
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  10. #10
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    Try these 12mm hexes from proline https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRO6098-00-...gAAOSwnK9ZOtc0 and blue (meduim) loctite on the threads (axles).

  11. #11
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Something to consider so you don't waste all the 12mm wheels you already have is the HR 17mm hex adaptors plus the ProLine aluminum 12mm hex. The HR 17mm adaptors go right over the 12mm hex so with just a single nut you can go between 12mm and 17mm in seconds. This is the solution I currently use on my Sla4h with the metal MIP hex that comes in their axle set. Because as long as the rims are of good quality they can reliably handle 12mm metal hex. I would still avoid over tightening because with metal hex you will snap the pin next.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYbandit33 View Post
    You should have no issues running that truck with 12mm plastic hexes on 3s. I would take the spool out, put in stock tranny parts, loosen the slipper clutch and go from there
    Should I just have spare diff gears waiting for me then?

    Quote Originally Posted by Igottabeme View Post
    Try these 12mm hexes from proline https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRO6098-00-...gAAOSwnK9ZOtc0 and blue (meduim) loctite on the threads (axles).
    I'll take a look, any benefit to these over the HR ones I have in the truck?

    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    Something to consider so you don't waste all the 12mm wheels you already have is the HR 17mm hex adaptors plus the ProLine aluminum 12mm hex. The HR 17mm adaptors go right over the 12mm hex so with just a single nut you can go between 12mm and 17mm in seconds. This is the solution I currently use on my Sla4h with the metal MIP hex that comes in their axle set. Because as long as the rims are of good quality they can reliably handle 12mm metal hex. I would still avoid over tightening because with metal hex you will snap the pin next.
    It would be one of those things thatd I'd probably sell me 12mm stuff at half price and just eat the costs. Hobby is expensive but it's not THAT expensive.

    Wife might get her own slash anyways, she's been lightly eyeing one lol waiting on a good used deal to pounce

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  13. #13
    RC Champion NYbandit33's Avatar
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    If you take the spool out and put the slipper clutch at a normal setting I dont see you would need to keep spare diffs on hand. I run my vehicles on 3s with stock transmissions and have never had an issue with the hexes or diff’s. Once you remove the spool and adjust the slipper clutch that should take care of the stress being put on the drivetrain
    Monster Baja Sla2h VXL
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYbandit33 View Post
    If you take the spool out and put the slipper clutch at a normal setting I dont see you would need to keep spare diffs on hand. I run my vehicles on 3s with stock transmissions and have never had an issue with the hexes or diff’s. Once you remove the spool and adjust the slipper clutch that should take care of the stress being put on the drivetrain
    I might keep a spare around until I'm proficient at setting the slipper clutch. Stock grease or is there something better to help keep some of the LSD action?

    Thanks for sharing!

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by slow_and_solo View Post

    I'll take a look, any benefit to these over the HR ones I have in the truck?

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    Never had the Hot racing ones. I like the quality of the aluminum proline uses for the hex. The clamping is nice also. I like the flat face of the hex also not the rounded in face of some other hexes IMO just has more of bite when the hex inserts to the wheel. I have some from STRC but they are showing wear from not really that hard of use the aluminum just seems weaker. There has to be a failure point somewhere or someplace that gives just like if you eliminate a servo saver then the weakest part will break the same thing with locking down the transmission.
    Last edited by Igottabeme; 04-25-2019 at 01:30 PM.

  16. #16
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    The only time I stripped a wheel was the day I switched to aluminum hexes. The wheel nut backed off enough to cause it. Since then I have put a tiny bit of blue loc-tite on the threads every time I take the wheels off. Over tightening will just cause more problems. What surface are you running on? I ended up using some epoxy on the stripped wheel and setting a plastic hex in permanently and only use it as a spare front.

  17. #17
    RC Champion NYbandit33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slow_and_solo View Post
    I might keep a spare around until I'm proficient at setting the slipper clutch. Stock grease or is there something better to help keep some of the LSD action?
    Tighten the slipper clutch all the way and then loosen it about 1/3 of a full turn and see how that works. That should be a good starting point
    Monster Baja Sla2h VXL
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