From everything I’ve heard you’ll want the RPM hinge pin set.
Got my own Hingepins coming for a 10th of the price of the CEN/RPM ones![]()
ThanksWaiting on some more parts from RC Mart then can finish up and look into the motor upgrade scenario, although Im not sure its necessary?
Had a rather large parcel today from RC Mart..... Tax free of course!
RPM Goodies
The Shell with the new mounting system
Now this shell retails in the UK for £94.99, and the new mounts cost me £45ish so not cheap by any means (I actually paid more as it was $55 shipped from RC Mart. Gotta be honest, I'm glad Ive got it cause it looks great. HOWEVER, this is my shelfer body, and its a good job. Its much thinner than stock, can't see it lasting one bash without considerable damage. Also, considering its a pro finished body (Im guessing its screen printed?) I'm quite disappointed as its nowhere near perfect, these pictures will show
Its still a million times better than I could've done, so I cracked on. Found fitting the internal mount/cage fairly hard but got there in the end
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Which gives me this. I know it looks like a walking Proline advert with the shell/Wheeels/tyres
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I only have 1 more set of RPM A-Arms, Im waiting on the fourth so decided to just do the rear end and 1 Hub. Set ups is simple. RPM Arms Upper and Lower and RPM Rear Hubs with oversized bearing on the inside. Ive broke the stock part of all these items in the past hence why I've gone for them again. There's an issue with the RPM Arms been softer and therefore flexing and allowing the stock pins to fall out. Most people use Can or RPM Threaded Pins, these were a) expensive b) in stock no where, so I bought some High Tensile 4x60mm Nut/Bolts and cut off 4mm. I got enough to do the whole X-Maxx for £3.69 posted. It also required drilling the arm out with a 4mm bit.
1 Side down 1 to go. How cool does the X look without the bumper/Wheelie bar/Skid
I'm off work tomorrow so may see if I can obtain the 4th set of RPM A Arms from somewhere!
I'm genuinely staggered, these have came so fast. Hawk Shock shafts. Not Cheap, but I broke a few of the stock shafts on my old X's till I went with these. As you can see from the pics theyre much thicker. I also changed the front to captured hinge pins and added the RPM Bumper mounts whilst I had it apart
Vs Stock
Crying out for red allot shock caps and collars now!
Finished
RPM Front bumper mount is kinda boring but
Im still waiting on a set of RPM Arms so I can do the rear left and add the RPM Oversized hub. Then I think it needs to be used and go from there? Cant seem to find the RPM arms in stock though?
Not sure how D Hawk operate, but I pay in dollars on eBay from China, and they get to me very fast via Royal Mail with no sign of a customs label or anything to suggest they've been sent from abroad? Mostly pointless stuff here, but I decided to get the Red Alloy Shock Collars and the Red Alloy Shock Caps. Not cheap, and not necessary but I felt I needed to upgrade to the shafts as the TRX TiNi ones don't fill me with confidence. Cost me a fair bit, and I dont really like red alloy, would've preferred all black but here we are.
I still laugh at the size of the shocks on this thing haha
Done
Up skirt shot
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Added a GDS Steering brace
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Cool pictures of cool goodies.![]()
The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.
So after some bad experiences with my E-Revo 2.0, I decided to sell it and invest some money into my Xmaxx....
My first one on Proline Badlands really hit home how much performance they sap. I needed to get this lost power back.
This is my third one, and Ive never changed the motor, as the stock one has always been enough for me, but decided it was time. I was initially against the change of the motor as all the videos Ive saw simply made it too powerful. I also wanted to use my existing Max 6 and keep it in its stock location. This meant the perfect choice was the Hobbywing 5687 1100kv motor. Its slightly lower KV, but is a much bigger motor.
I'd also need a new Motor Mount and Mod 1.5 gears.
I was very lucky to find someone selling a suitable set up that they had installed and not used themselves, I snapped it up been as it was in the UK and available next day.... Ill let the pics do the talking
I have a bit of a fetish for Hobbywing....
The motor is a beast
With a 1/8th 2200kv motor
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The new Spur
All installed, it's a nightmare to set the mesh and its not quite right yet so I need a 7mm spanner to adjust it when the pinion is on (lowest I have is an 8mm). It feels very brutal however
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Last edited by Kpowell911; 07-10-2019 at 01:23 PM.
Just be careful with that motor. I personally would be a little worried about running a 200 amp motor on a 160amp ESC. What kind of gearing are you going to run?
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
How’s it run?
Mod 1.5 I'm assuming? Yeah it is. Silly question. Sorry. That will be a fun setup. I went with 25/35 and I was sad at first that it was that fast and powerful. Kind of like you said from watching videos, almost too much. You'll be good with the badlands. That was the main thing. Game changer in the power usability/management department.
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Last edited by nickruger; 07-10-2019 at 05:25 PM.
Credit to RC Modelz. Ordered an alloy servo bell crank yesterday and it came today so fitted it.
Also, going to need*some more lipos, this motor eats them Any ideas? Im*rubbish at finding batteries!
Ok, so I finally sold my E-Revo 2.0. I really didn't get on with that and Ive invested the money into the X-Maxx which is now my only RC....
My Max 6 developed a fault with the on off switch. Huge Props to Modelsport UK and the UK Hobbywing Distributor who offered to replace the Max 6 as it was under warranty. I spoke with Modelsport and they allowed me to put the extra to a Max 5 as I feel it would be more suitable in the long run. I initially didnt want a Max 5, as its too big and doesn't fit properly. My friend was selling an unused ESC Mounting kit and a relocated RX box, which is a bit of a bodge but I suppose it makes the best of a bad situation. I would've liked to mount an RX box up front on the telemetry screw holes, but the servo wire on the 2085x is very short so decided to use the one in the kit. Ive screwed it down to the chassis and Ill silicon bead the edges to seal it.
I also decided to spend the rest of the money from my E-Revo sale on a Futaba 4PV. I didnt really like the 3PV but this feels much better. I initially hoped to bank some cash from the Sale of my E-Revo, but TBH Ive probably sunk it all and more back into the hobby but hey....
I set up a profile on the 4PV and bound the RX and set the ESC up, as the new RX box sits under the ESC mount
New RX box
The ESC didnt come with any tape (thought it was strange?) so I need to pick up some 3m tape for the ESC and the switch
I need to set the ESC settings using the program card and then there's not much else to do now other than use it..... maybe a few new red bits?
So, I took her for a run.
On the way I realised I'd not secured the ESC down so popped to B&Q for some double sided tape. Then I looked on Google maps and found a local park....
I drove to the said park, and it was a bit busy tbh. I walked through the trials (and ALMOST saw the appeal of a Crawler!) and finally got to a big open stretch to use it. However, It was then I decided to lose the pinion and have to carry it back to the van. I was originally running 20/35 and was pretty happy with everything, but it wasn't a huge amount different to what id replaced... I hiked back to the Van, and switched over to the 25t pinion I had. Im now running 25/35 Mod 1.5 gearing with an 1100kv motor, which seems over geared to me but we will see.
I managed to run my lip's right down and didnt break a thing. This thing is a monster, but I'm still getting used to the mod 1.5 noise. It sounds so mechanical!
That said I've found out the following:
I need more Lipo's
I need to up the brake power
I need to lower the punch
I need to change the LVC to high
Very happy with it. It did run quite hot to be honest, so Im thinking I need to get a lower tooth pinion?
Got some poor pictures as I was on my own. Excuse the shell, Im scared to use my Proline one!
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You can control the punch through that 4pv you got. You can adjust it in very small increments, anywhere from 0-100 to get it exactly where you want it. Here are the settings menu to navigate. You'll still want to change your settings on the ESC, and then use your transmitter to fine tune it. It is nice because you can go from pulling wheelies at a blip of the throttle to almost none through the entire range just by adjusting your settings on your transmitter. You can tune it all the way down to hand off to a noob. I just did this the other day with a friend who hadn't played with a truck since he was 10. Tuned it all the way down and handed over my 1500$ MT410 without a worry in the world.
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Last edited by nickruger; 08-03-2019 at 03:23 PM.
Brilliant, must admit Im well impressed with the 4pV. Thanks