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Thread: Evil-R build...

  1. #41
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    That way when the bearing goes out you can buy.a whole new motor. I don't think mine was glued but was a pita to get new bearing back in.

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  2. #42
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    With the diffs, T-Bone chassis and now this I’m honestly getting to the point of having enough with this build!

    Why would you glue bearing in!!!!

  3. #43
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    Well rear endbell now needed on a new motor

    Tried heat, didnít work..

    Tried the advised packing grease under the bearing and tap down with a 5mm bar, all that did was pop off the metal seal and dent the endbell.

    Is it normal to have this much bad luck!

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by SC11 View Post
    Well rear endbell now needed on a new motor

    Tried heat, didnít work..

    Tried the advised packing grease under the bearing and tap down with a 5mm bar, all that did was pop off the metal seal and dent the endbell.

    Is it normal to have this much bad luck!
    Hate to break it to you, but I don't think they sell replacement parts for that motor. You'll probably have to send it to Castle, and with their stock situation I don't know if they'll even have it.

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  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Hate to break it to you, but I don't think they sell replacement parts for that motor. You'll probably have to send it to Castle, and with their stock situation I don't know if they'll even have it.

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    Guessed as much! Canít even buy another 1515 to tide me over

    But why oh why glue a bearing in...... Iím fuming as I know itís such a easy task!

    Iím an engineer by trade so itís not as if Iím a numpty screwing all this up, but come on canít this RC game give me a break....

    Best part of 2k invested in this and might just shelf it, well thatís my current feeling right now.

  6. #46
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    Also moving forward I know once I change the bearings it will be ok later on but a I’m wrong to feel a little disappointed in essence Castle are building one shot motors as you won’t be able to change bearing down the line now?

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by SC11 View Post
    With the diffs, T-Bone chassis and now this Iím honestly getting to the point of having enough with this build!

    Why would you glue bearing in!!!!
    Don't take this the wrong way, but You honestly need to stop wasting your time and money and and actually use the thing. There is absolutely no need whatsoever to upgrade the motor bearings. You're just messing for the sake of messing. You're not going to achieve nothing by changing the bearing on a mass produced Castle Motor in an E-Revo.

    I could understand your frustrations if you were messing with a Lehner/Hacker/TP Racing motor, but youre messing with a cheap off the shelf motor from a mass produced company and wondering why youre having issues?

    Just relax a little, you've already spent so much time, money and effort and you hardly know how the thing even performs as stock to know that you've achieved anything modifying it. Sometimes less is more.

    I can't stand TBR stuff either, it looks so amateur its un true
    Last edited by Kpowell911; 06-25-2019 at 03:44 PM.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by SC11 View Post
    Also moving forward I know once I change the bearings it will be ok later on but a I’m wrong to feel a little disappointed in essence Castle are building one shot motors as you won’t be able to change bearing down the line now?

    Why? Thats what a motor at this level is. Run it till it fails and replace.

    People seem to have some opinion that Castle are some amazing custom bespoke Motor builders. Maybe initially when they first started using Steve Neu's designs they were, but now they're barely above RTR grade. And that's perfectly fine. They make a very good product, for a decent price, but thats all. In my opinion, youre taking it all far too seriously and expecting too much from what you have.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kpowell911 View Post
    Why? Thats what a motor at this level is. Run it till it fails and replace.

    People seem to have some opinion that Castle are some amazing custom bespoke Motor builders. Maybe initially when they first started using Steve Neu's designs they were, but now they're barely above RTR grade. And that's perfectly fine. They make a very good product, for a decent price, but thats all. In my opinion, youre taking it all far too seriously and expecting too much from what you have.

    Quite possibly but it what I like to do!

    I’m under no illusion Castle are not some custom made motor but they are hardly in the budget range neither. In my field I deal with £30-£40 motors with serviceable bearings so it it too much to ask of a £180 motor but anyway regardless of cost it still begs the question why glue bearings in. And if they had designed it as a one shot why not make it a sealed unit.

  10. #50
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    But anyway this is digressing...

    I have the Bocaís and I have the motor which now I need to sort as trying to remove the endbell bearing has left it unusable.

    Left the endbell in soak to see if I can loosen whatever glue/epoxy they have used.

    Tomorrow a new day plus another toy might be purchased haha

  11. #51
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    I think you are in too deep at this point. Since you already dropped all the coin on this thing I think you need to see it through. I think your build has kind of gone over the top for what i would do, but that's me. Like you said, you like what you do, so do it. Don't let anyone's opinions sway you one way or the other including me. Instead of waiting for another castle, I would get this and call it a day. With your fan you could gear it really high and be done with it.
    https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/203759/

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  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I think you are in too deep at this point. Since you already dropped all the coin on this thing I think you need to see it through. I think your build has kind of gone over the top for what i would do, but that's me. Like you said, you like what you do, so do it. Don't let anyone's opinions sway you one way or the other including me. Instead of waiting for another castle, I would get this and call it a day. With your fan you could gear it really high and be done with it.
    https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/203759/

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    HaHaHa course Iím going to see it through! Just had a long day and this topped it off!

    Fresh head this morning so will see what can be done.

    Worse case Iíll just buy that as a temp motor or another 1515 if I can locate one, not the end of the world is it really, or I have got a 2028/XLX on its way as soon as the U.K gets stock I could always shoehorn that in

    Exactly itís what I like to do, and itís all relative I know Iíve gone overkill but in my mind fitting uprated bearings even if wasted on an E Revo is in essence more beneficial they say changing the colour of shock caps or new bodies etc some people like to improve the visual aspect and get pleasure from that (Iím no difference) but I like to over engineer stuff!

    Like Iíve said before what Iím going to drop in this I could of had a high spec race truggy and some but I love the look of the E Revo and want to make it my own..

  13. #53
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    I had a pita of a time getting the bearing back in near end of housing where the pinion gear for the stock motor is.

    What I found worked to get it seated was to get the bearing position in place but not seated. Put the rotor back in. Position the end cap back in place. Then gently but forcefully hit the back of the cap. This magically seated the bearing.

    I had ruined 2 other bearing trying to use wooden dowels and so on to tap bearing back in.

    Or course you may want to make sure any excess glue is removed. A idea to remove the glue is perhaps drill bit the size of bearing and just turn it by hand to scrap off the glue? Or a dental pick and some time...

    They probably glued the bearing since the fit was too loose and to not toss a whole batch of parts. The glue was just a cheap fix to the manufacturing being out of spec. Be my guess on why it was glued...

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  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    I had a pita of a time getting the bearing back in near end of housing where the pinion gear for the stock motor is.

    What I found worked to get it seated was to get the bearing position in place but not seated. Put the rotor back in. Position the end cap back in place. Then gently but forcefully hit the back of the cap. This magically seated the bearing.

    I had ruined 2 other bearing trying to use wooden dowels and so on to tap bearing back in.

    Or course you may want to make sure any excess glue is removed. A idea to remove the glue is perhaps drill bit the size of bearing and just turn it by hand to scrap off the glue? Or a dental pick and some time...

    They probably glued the bearing since the fit was too loose and to not toss a whole batch of parts. The glue was just a cheap fix to the manufacturing being out of spec. Be my guess on why it was glued...

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    Cool I’ll keep that in mind, my main hurdle is getting it out first haha

  15. #55
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    Just get a bigger hammer. Fixes all problems.

    What I did was use a hex screwdriver that was tapered some kind of like a nail punch put inside of the bearing. Then tapped it with a hammer till it came out.

    I may of had to hit it hard a few times. Tappy tap tap.

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  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Just get a bigger hammer. Fixes all problems.

    What I did was use a hex screwdriver that was tapered some kind of like a nail punch put inside of the bearing. Then tapped it with a hammer till it came out.

    I may of had to hit it hard a few times. Tappy tap tap.

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    I wish! The endbell one is sealed so only has access to the front of the bearing!

  17. #57
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    I was wondering why you were replacing bearings on a new motor. Like Kpowell911 I was trying to figure out the logic behind it, but what seems to some as a waste of time is just how others go about doing things. Everyone has their opinion, and at the end of the day you're the one that makes the decision as to what you want and I can respect that.

    Something that came into my thoughts is the bag of replacement bearings I have. I tend to buy replacements as I use them, so I have them on hand when they're needed. I use ABEC 5 hybrid ceramics, which on smaller bearings aren't too terribly expensive, but they are on larger ones. I have at least $500 in bearings in that bag for three vehicles. One being a 1/16 E-Revo, so there isn't much invested in those bearings. I was even researching full ceramic bearing recently (definitely _not_ for the MERV) and thinking I might pick up a few sets to try in specific points on my vehicles.

    So I suppose I get it. Tinkering is part of the hobby and some enjoy it, some don't. I'm someone that enjoys trying something that might be considered outside the norm. There will be failures, sometimes they add up and make a project a real challenge, but that's part of the game. I'd probably be considering ABEC 7 bearings for the motor too, not that I'd really be able to notice a difference, but in that you know you did use a better bearing and potentially have extended the motor's failure point.

    Have you checked into if this motor you received is a counterfeit? I don't know if they're common now but there have been counterfeit Castle motors in the past.

    As for getting the bearing out, I'd consider drilling three small holes, large enough to allow clearance for a 2.5mm screw on the diameter of the outer race of the bearing. (this is parallel to the centerline of the bearing) The holes can't extend beyond the outside diameter of the race. I'd then get a collet or socket that is larger than the outer race of the bearing, take that and some 2.5mm socket head cap screws (not too long, preferrably just long enough to contact the bearing race with perhaps 3mm extra length) and head over to the vise. Put the screws through the holes in the end bell, the collet on the other side and put it in the vice. Tighten it down, should press the bearing out. Might have to use more than one set of screws to press it all the way out, using longer ones as needed.

    Push new bearing in, seal holes with whatever sealant you have.

  18. #58
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    I ran a search and one recommendation was to soak in something called 'super clean' and then put it in an ultrasonic cleaner. Acetone should break down CA glue as well assuming that is what was used. I have a small ultrasonic cleaner. They're relatively inexpensive too. I forgot I had it, actually. There are probably some uses for it I haven't thought of for various things on my vehicles.

  19. #59
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    ^ thanks for doing that buddy appreciate it.

    To be honest Iíve googled ideas to death...

    But in the end out it came!!!

    In the oven at 150 for 10-15 mins did the trick, took it and tap the endbell down a few times and out it popped!

    End is undamaged the slight bulge was easily tapped down, new bearings in and off I go.

    For reference Castle use a £1.50 ABEC 5 bearing maybe my ABEC 7 ceramic Boca orange seal will yield no measurable real life difference but the argument stands its a better bearing. My main endeavour is to keep the motor and drive train as free and smooth as possible to help with any heat issue.

    Back to fitting my other goodies

  20. #60
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    Current state of play!






  21. #61
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    Some red alu goodness..

  22. #62
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    Attention to detail overload!

    You could make out the blue bearing in the wheelie bar wheel so out they came for Boca black seals I didnít go yellow or orange as that would be silly now wouldnít it haha

  23. #63
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    The best thing for me is the black dyed parts! Looks amazing mate. Ive no idea why Traxxas went with grey

  24. #64
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    Just need to wire this bad boy up

  25. #65
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    Too much time on my hands!


  26. #66
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    Little bit of wheel detail on the Shockwaves just like my TCís


  27. #67
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    Trying out wing height (please ignore the wing branding haha)

    Low


    High


    New HR bumpers ok plastic is more durable but I am working on a hybrid T-Bone bumper over the front and rear is well protected


  28. #68
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    Very very nice e revo I love everything you have done!


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  29. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nightflier x4.6 View Post
    Very very nice e revo I love everything you have done!


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    Thanks

    New motor mount fitted today


  30. #70
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    New wing mounted and fans guards fitted





  31. #71
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    Sweeeeeet motor mount! Which one is that. Love the heat sinks built in to it!
    ABMods 3.3 Revo PE
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  32. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    Sweeeeeet motor mount! Which one is that. Love the heat sinks built in to it!
    Motor plate is Hot Racing and I did want the motor mount as well but it’s been ‘Out of Stock’ for as long as I’ve been looking so went GPM matches well just a same it’s missing the polish edges to tie it all in.

  33. #73
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    Another new gadget!

  34. #74
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    New toy to keep the Revo straight haha


  35. #75
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    HR front skid fitted but donít worry I have a custom style T-Bone partially covering it (well I will when it arrives)



  36. #76
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    Looking good.


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  37. #77
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    Test fitted the Savox and looked at ways to mount the fans



  38. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nightflier x4.6 View Post
    Looking good.


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    Thanks buddy

  39. #79
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    If you donít mind me asking how much do you have tied up in your e-revo in upgrades?


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  40. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nightflier x4.6 View Post
    If you donít mind me asking how much do you have tied up in your e-revo in upgrades?


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    I donít honestly know!

    Got to be 3/4 times over its initial cost but working on its part of the fun so Iíve saved by not going out

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