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  1. #1
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    Options for running without a body.

    I really don't like having to put the lexan body on every time I have to change a battery or anything of the sort. I know that sounds kinda stupid but hear me out. If you are bashing on 4s flipping and tumbling around a lot you'll find out that normal body's don't hold up very well.

    I'm wondering if there's something I can buy to use instead of a body. Like a really beefy cage setup that could stand up to rollovers and crashes. I've seen some cages on ebay but they all seem pretty thin and look like they wouldn't survive very long.


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  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Proline has some Bash Armor bodies for the Slash:

    https://www.prolineracing.com/bodies...body-white.asp

    and

    https://www.prolineracing.com/bodies...body-white.asp



    Since you don't want a body, you can run a cage from VG Racing:

    https://www.vgracing.com/product/Sla...Roll_Cage.html

    also, their cage for the Rally fits as well (Slash LCG chassis):

    https://www.vgracing.com/product/Rally_Roll_Cage.html

    Note that these cages are made of steel and are heavy.
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  3. #3
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Honestly, I would not recommend running without a body. The body is more than "just for looks"...it also helps protect your electronics, pinion gear, spur gear, etc from potential damage caused by rocks, pebbles, etc, that might otherwise find themselves in the chassis pan. Having to remove/reinstall the body is just part of RCing. If it's "too much for you", then maybe you should consider getting a 'toy' RC where the body is permanently attached, and all you have to do is plug a charging cable in to recharge the built-in, non-removable, battery.

    I'm not trying to be "harsh", but, complaining about having to remove the body to swap batteries would be equivalent to complaining about having to remove a car's gas cap to refuel the tank - it's part of the 'ownership'. Just enjoy it for what it is...and, if you want a real 'challenge', try buying a kit, where you have to build the entire vehicle, piece-by-piece (btw, just so you know, building them is seriously enjoyable).

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Honestly, I would not recommend running without a body. The body is more than "just for looks"...it also helps protect your electronics, pinion gear, spur gear, etc from potential damage caused by rocks, pebbles, etc, that might otherwise find themselves in the chassis pan. Having to remove/reinstall the body is just part of RCing. If it's "too much for you", then maybe you should consider getting a 'toy' RC where the body is permanently attached, and all you have to do is plug a charging cable in to recharge the built-in, non-removable, battery.

    I'm not trying to be "harsh", but, complaining about having to remove the body to swap batteries would be equivalent to complaining about having to remove a car's gas cap to refuel the tank - it's part of the 'ownership'. Just enjoy it for what it is...and, if you want a real 'challenge', try buying a kit, where you have to build the entire vehicle, piece-by-piece (btw, just so you know, building them is seriously enjoyable).

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.
    I understand that it's stupid not wanting a body lol. I have bought kits and built them and It is pretty enjoyable. I guess I'll just stop being so picky when it comes to removing the body. I'll look into those proline tough body's as well for my slash 4x4 and 2wd

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  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Thanks squeegie

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  7. #7
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    From what I've seen, Pro-Line's Bash Armor is outstanding. The Lexan is twice as thick.

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    From what I've seen, Pro-Line's Bash Armor is outstanding. The Lexan is twice as thick.

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.
    Alright I'll give it a shot once I wear out my current body. Thanks for the help

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  9. #9
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    I haven't run the proline bash armour bodies long enough to know their full longevity, but the one I have for my xmaxx has taken some decent hits and showed no real damage. They are definitely tough. If they out last 3 or 4 regular bodies I see them totally being worth the price.

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  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Hot Racing makes a roll bar. I had a few trucks that were run only with the roll bar. It does it's job and keeps things cool
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  11. #11
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    The bash armor is awesome! I’ve got the one for 2.8” wheels. It’s done very very well.

    The hot racing inner roll cage was a mess for me. I absolutely destroyed it and it only caused more harm for me.

    For quite a while I ran with no body and no roll cage. I used my rpm shock towers as my “cage”. It did very well and it tore up the shock towers some but no other damage was really caused. It was also great for jumps and such because of no ballooning.


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  12. #12
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    What is like to see is them produce some Bash Armor bodies for the Rustler 4x4 chassis...say, at least one stadium truck body, and at least one somewhat-more-traditional SCT body (is. essentially standard SCT, but with a shorter wheel base to match the Rustler's shorter wheel base).

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  13. #13
    RC Qualifier whitie_bear's Avatar
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    I run a backslash with no body and just the hot racing LCG (as im LCG) inner roll cage, its more then enough to protect everything, and even my spoiler most of times

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jw8fZtCD1Q


    not my video but that is the cage
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  14. #14
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitie_bear View Post
    I run a backslash with no body and just the hot racing LCG (as im LCG) inner roll cage, its more then enough to protect everything, and even my spoiler most of times

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jw8fZtCD1Q


    not my video but that is the cage
    Then, technically, it's not BackSlash...it's just a Slash with a cage, instead of a truck body. A "BackSlash" is an e-buggy conversion from a Slash. Anyone can remove the body, and install a cage, but, technically, it's still a Slash, as there's a bit more involved when it comes to a BackSlash. Honestly, not putting your vehicle down, but an orange is still an orange, even if you call it an apple.

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  15. #15
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitie_bear View Post
    I run a backslash with no body and just the hot racing LCG (as im LCG) inner roll cage, its more then enough to protect everything, and even my spoiler most of times

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jw8fZtCD1Q


    not my video but that is the cage
    Did you notice any handling or durability increase since that cage mounts tower to tower? Just curious. Shock tower to shock tower braces in some of my other vehicles made drastic changes in both handling and less breakage from chassis flex. Might be a double benefit for summer running.

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  16. #16
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    References to unauthorized, knockoff body shells are not permitted. ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 05-22-2019 at 08:42 PM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 604Slash4x4 View Post
    References to unauthorized, knockoff body shells are not permitted. ksb51rl
    I wouldn't consider anything posted above a knock off. Just because it isn't Traxxas brand doesn't make it knock off.

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  18. #18
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    You could try one of the dusty covers. They Velcro on. They unzip down the middle. You could try one of them.

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier whitie_bear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Did you notice any handling or durability increase since that cage mounts tower to tower? Just curious. Shock tower to shock tower braces in some of my other vehicles made drastic changes in both handling and less breakage from chassis flex. Might be a double benefit for summer running.

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    handling was a bit tighter, does affect that but 100% it has saved my car numerous times, one that i remember most clearly was when i sent the car careening at full speed into my trucks (F150) rear diff and it exploded (RC)! the cage was no more but everything else was in perfect working order, i have rolled it countless times in 3s 4s and 2s, hit objects etc. and it has been the best money i have spent on the car, well besides my tekno axles
    Slash Ultimate Modified & Summit - Lipos ALWAYS!

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier whitie_bear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Then, technically, it's not BackSlash...it's just a Slash with a cage, instead of a truck body. A "BackSlash" is an e-buggy conversion from a Slash. Anyone can remove the body, and install a cage, but, technically, it's still a Slash, as there's a bit more involved when it comes to a BackSlash. Honestly, not putting your vehicle down, but an orange is still an orange, even if you call it an apple.

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.
    Yes it is, i have a spoiler, different bumpers and wheels, just i run it without the body sometimes because it gets hot - thanks for explaining it too me though - i mean i didn't even show a picture, a lot to assume from my post; and i still call it a backslash when its running with no body
    Slash Ultimate Modified & Summit - Lipos ALWAYS!

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitie_bear View Post
    Yes it is, i have a spoiler, different bumpers and wheels, just i run it without the body sometimes because it gets hot - thanks for explaining it too me though - i mean i didn't even show a picture, a lot to assume from my post; and i still call it a backslash when its running with no body
    OkieZ...

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  22. #22
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    I was just searching that hot racing inner cage and came across this:

    Integy RC Model Hop-ups T8527 Steel Roll Cage Body for Traxxas 1/10 Slash 4X4 Non-LCG (6808)


  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by fozzy71 View Post
    I was just searching that hot racing inner cage and came across this:

    Integy RC Model Hop-ups T8527 Steel Roll Cage Body for Traxxas 1/10 Slash 4X4 Non-LCG (6808)

    I've heard stories of that cage breaking apart very easily. I'd stay away from anything integy

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  24. #24
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    Thx, I was thinking about buying an integy rear shock tower to replace my strc that I managed to break one of the 2 mounting plate screws (and a traxxas metal cvd axle output shaft) on. The Integy one has 3 screws where the mount plate attaches to the tower. For now I just put the stock tower back on but I found some SS screws the same size in my rc screwz kit and was able to get the old broken black screw out so I am going to give it another go when I buy some upgraded shocks for it.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by fozzy71 View Post
    Thx, I was thinking about buying an integy rear shock tower to replace my strc that I managed to break one of the 2 mounting plate screws (and a traxxas metal cvd axle output shaft) on. The Integy one has 3 screws where the mount plate attaches to the tower. For now I just put the stock tower back on but I found some SS screws the same size in my rc screwz kit and was able to get the old broken black screw out so I am going to give it another go when I buy some upgraded shocks for it.
    You can try some integy stuff if it has good reviews. I've had very mixed experiences with integy parts. Stay away from all of their driveline parts. Half shafts and stuff like that. It's all junk.

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  26. #26
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    Good to know. I went to replace that traxxas with the cheaper mip cvd dog bone shafts the other day and got home put one together and it was like an inch too short. Young kid at the LHS gave me the ones for the nitro rustler. That was also a 90 minute round trip (15 miles each way) in rush hour traffic. I went to the closer shop 3 miles away yesterday and got the heavier duty plastic traxxas ones for $24/pr. I am heading out now to see how they do on road with the 3s packs.

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