Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 104
  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    33

    What did you do to your Rusty today?

    These threads usually get lots of good posts, lets get one going here too!


    First thing I did today was repair the problem I had yesterday - the original steering horn had stripped last week so I replaced it with an alloy one but didn't bother to use any Loctite on the screws. I was bashing around the backyard and at one point lost steering - the darn screw & ball pivot on the horn backed out and are lost to the ants now. Thankfully I got a set of Stampede front shock guards in the mail yesterday and they happen to include 2 ball pivots in the hardware that I didn't need for that install so I was able to repurpose one and fix the steering up.

    The Stampede front guards I'd recommend - they fully protect the lower mounting points of your shocks and, if you have them, sway bars (I have HRs) both of which in my case were taking a little bit of a beating. For $8 they shouldn't be a concern anymore, and the guards fit perfectly. I only used the shock bolt to mount them as it's secure enough and makes it a lot easier to work with than if I'd also through-mounted the sways, as-is they fit fine behind the guard.

    Today I got a set of 2.8 Duratrax Bandito MTs and blue stripe Traxxas GTR springs (replacing blacks), popped those all on. The springs don't seem to be very stiff, I've still got preload cranked WAY down to get the a-arms level. The shocks are all on stock lower mounts, outermost upper mounts - if anyone thinks I should change that let me know, I am still new to tuning this. The wheels and tires look awesome IMO and the traction on my driveway and on my concrete patio gets this thing to flip on its back or do massive wheelies if I'm not careful (2S batteries), with the stock tires I could get a little lift sometimes but that was it. Nice to be able to pop the front up just before hitting a jump.

    I also got some alloy hexes but have no clue whether I should actually use them (a bit worried about damaging the plastic wheels) or how to install them. I bought them because they were $2

    Lastly I ordered a set of the MIP drivers, sick of using mediocre allen keys and today was payday. I wish they offered a ratcheting, slim, handle for the 1/4" drive versions though.


    What did you do to your Rusty today?

  2. #2
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    79
    I've been brutal on the talon wheels!! 3S with an 17 pinion. I'm tearing up the parking lot as I'm coming out of the apex turn full throttle! Sometimes it will drift a bit or fish-tail. But those tires will be barking

    I'm going to break something. I'm not sure yet, but something has to give with that punishing brutal abuse I'm giving it

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    VT
    Posts
    79
    Well, I ordered some pinion gears for the boy's Rustler 4x4. That count? :-)

    A couple of days ago, the boy and I upgraded his brushed Rustler 4x4 to Brushless by installing the motor and ESC from the VXL version of this truck. We re-used the 10T pinion gear, and set the mesh correctly. The 2S Test run lasted all of 2 minutes. Oops!

    I ASSumed that we had screwed up the mesh, and stripped the spur gear, but no. The pinion gear broke! Seems that DearOldDad managed to over torque the set-screw on the pinion gear, and the actual gear broke right where the set-screw is (allowing the gear to spin freely on the motor shaft). So, No-Va!

    Ordered up a 9, 10, 11, 12 so we have some options to play with.

    Yea, I know that its not a fun, exciting thing, but it's what is going on at the moment...

    --BillJ

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    402
    Quote Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
    These threads usually get lots of good posts, lets get one going here too!


    First thing I did today was repair the problem I had yesterday - the original steering horn had stripped last week so I replaced it with an alloy one but didn't bother to use any Loctite on the screws. I was bashing around the backyard and at one point lost steering - the darn screw & ball pivot on the horn backed out and are lost to the ants now. Thankfully I got a set of Stampede front shock guards in the mail yesterday and they happen to include 2 ball pivots in the hardware that I didn't need for that install so I was able to repurpose one and fix the steering up.

    The Stampede front guards I'd recommend - they fully protect the lower mounting points of your shocks and, if you have them, sway bars (I have HRs) both of which in my case were taking a little bit of a beating. For $8 they shouldn't be a concern anymore, and the guards fit perfectly. I only used the shock bolt to mount them as it's secure enough and makes it a lot easier to work with than if I'd also through-mounted the sways, as-is they fit fine behind the guard.

    Today I got a set of 2.8 Duratrax Bandito MTs and blue stripe Traxxas GTR springs (replacing blacks), popped those all on. The springs don't seem to be very stiff, I've still got preload cranked WAY down to get the a-arms level. The shocks are all on stock lower mounts, outermost upper mounts - if anyone thinks I should change that let me know, I am still new to tuning this. The wheels and tires look awesome IMO and the traction on my driveway and on my concrete patio gets this thing to flip on its back or do massive wheelies if I'm not careful (2S batteries), with the stock tires I could get a little lift sometimes but that was it. Nice to be able to pop the front up just before hitting a jump.

    I also got some alloy hexes but have no clue whether I should actually use them (a bit worried about damaging the plastic wheels) or how to install them. I bought them because they were $2

    Lastly I ordered a set of the MIP drivers, sick of using mediocre allen keys and today was payday. I wish they offered a ratcheting, slim, handle for the 1/4" drive versions though.


    What did you do to your Rusty today?
    I did not actually do this today, but I am just uploading this today, wanted to impress some of my friends, so I pulled a 70, mph speed run, then tried to do a double backflip off a brand new ramp. I ended up breaking one of the front driveshafts (still stock, I am too lazy/cheap to upgrade them). That reminds me, does anyone have any suggestions for very cheap front driveshaft replacements? Preferably under $35

  5. #5
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    VT
    Posts
    79
    Quote Originally Posted by Luke s View Post
    I did not actually do this today, but I am just uploading this today, wanted to impress some of my friends, so I pulled a 70, mph speed run, then tried to do a double backflip off a brand new ramp. I ended up breaking one of the front driveshafts (still stock, I am too lazy/cheap to upgrade them). That reminds me, does anyone have any suggestions for very cheap front driveshaft replacements? Preferably under $35
    If you are simply looking for replacement parts, seems to me that a pair of these:
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/6851A
    should get the job done, and all for (before shipping) $24

    If you are looking for upgrade front driveshafts, that's a different story

    Good Luck --BillJ

  6. #6
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    33
    Alright made a few changes, mainly dropped to a smaller rear sway and finally set the end points on my servo. I'm not loving the angle of the conrod between the bellcrank and horn so I may try another horn style so I can get it lined up better, I wish it was easier to work on that part of the truck but it's a real pain.

  7. #7
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    1
    Just bought it today!

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    282
    Quote Originally Posted by Luke s View Post
    I did not actually do this today, but I am just uploading this today, wanted to impress some of my friends, so I pulled a 70, mph speed run, then tried to do a double backflip off a brand new ramp. I ended up breaking one of the front driveshafts (still stock, I am too lazy/cheap to upgrade them). That reminds me, does anyone have any suggestions for very cheap front driveshaft replacements? Preferably under $35
    If you want upgrades there are quite a few ebay vendors selling Tekno 6851x for about 35-40

  9. #9
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    VT
    Posts
    79
    So... today I watched this video:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NYCZbkZAnY
    that purports to show how to convert a Brushed Rustler 4x4 into a Brushless Rustler 4x4. As part of that conversion, the video indicates that the slipper clutch is different between the two vehicles.
    I thought that this was odd, as I've seen a few posts here that indicated that the slipper clutch was the same between the Brushed and Burshless. Watching the video tho, it does seem like with the vehicles this guy is working on, there are different slipper clutches on the Brushed and Brushless Rustler 4x4. I looked at the parts listing for the two vehicles here on the Traxxas site (and the documentation that shipped in the boxes for the boy's Brushed Rustler 4x4, and my Brushless Rustler 4x4), and it looks like the two SHARE a slipper clutch.

    With such conflicting info, I decided to pull the rear-clip off of both vehicles and see for myself: Do they both have the same size slipper clutch?
    And the answer is: YES they Do. For the two Rustler 4x4s in my possession (one brushed, one brushless) they BOTH have the same (larger?) slipper clutch assembly. Case Closed.

    I'm not sure where the guy in the video sourced his Brushed Rustler 4x4 from, but the one that I got, has the same slipper clutch as the brushless version.

    --BillJ

  10. #10
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    13,532
    He was hard to watch but his video was uploaded shortly after Christmas.

    Maybe the first run of brushed had different slippers but since they have been changed to VXL. He shows the difference between what he removed and installed.

    He mentioned the differentials being different, yes, the ring and pinion are different size/teeth but the cup and internals are the exact same. Not sure how that makes the VXL "stronger" - just gears it up a bit. You want stronger diffs go with the XO-1.
    The Super Derecho

  11. #11
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    VT
    Posts
    79
    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    He was hard to watch but his video was uploaded shortly after Christmas.

    Maybe the first run of brushed had different slippers but since they have been changed to VXL. He shows the difference between what he removed and installed.
    Yea, sorry about forcing ya to sit thru that. For the record, the slipper clutch parts are shown side-by-side at ~ 3:25 into the video.
    The guy making the video also fails to address the lack of TSM on the Brushed version (I believe that would require the TSM receiver, and TQi transmitter).
    --BillJ

  12. #12
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    52
    Wasn't today, but I did have my first "major" break on the Rustler. With the weather warming up, I decided to put my big Trenchers back on and run the Rustler on 2s. Still plenty fast for me in the backyard with a 13t pinion. It was short lived, though. Drove full speed right into my grill and broke the front right arm. My Tekno drive shaft popped out, so the front right wheel wasn't moving. Took a look and the arm was barely hanging on to the pin. My dog was really bummed... Lol

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier tmbold's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    350
    Today I broke another turnbuckle, not really broke but the threads pull out of the plastic. Replaced the plastic pieces but it keeps happening. Any ideas on I strong turnbuckle replacement. Itís mainly in the rear


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  14. #14
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    79
    Quote Originally Posted by tmbold View Post
    Today I broke another turnbuckle, not really broke but the threads pull out of the plastic. Replaced the plastic pieces but it keeps happening. Any ideas on I strong turnbuckle replacement. Itís mainly in the rear
    I managed something similar - the screw that holds the rear-right turnbuckle to the rear bulkhead came out pulling the plastic threads from that bulkhead.

    I ended up replacing the rear-bulkhead. The turnbuckle is secured to it, but not so tight that I risk pulling the threads out.... or so I hope.

  15. #15
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    33
    Bought an IR gun so I can figure out if it is the ESC or the motor that overheats in our summer heat - my guess is probably both

  16. #16
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    33
    Installed the Powerhobby motor and ESC fanset - took just a couple of minutes to install. I should get a chance tomorrow to test them out under duress, I'll run the heavy tires and see if I can use a full 5200 battery.

    Any suggestions for replacement off road tires? Not looking for chunkers from Proline, thinking stock or similar low-profile tires.

    After that is an upgraded servo (I have a "20kg" generic from Amazon now that works OK) and probably a DHawk bellcrank to go with it.

  17. #17
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    33
    Finally broke a front a-arm, it split at the forward mount. Considering the abuse I've heaped on the Rusty I have just been waiting for this to happen. I went ahead and got the HD "cold weather" replacements which will come sometime this week.

    Also ordered an EVO P2 servo ($62 shipped) which I hope will improve steering performance and not require a BEC.

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    693
    Today, I didn't do anything 'with' my Rusty...but I did start preparations to convert it into a proper Stadium Truck. First, I picked up the JConcepts #2477 Suspension Conversion Kit. Next, I ordered a few parts (front bumper, A-skids, & chassis skid) from T-Bone racing. After that, a replacement body, in the form of a Pro-Line Crown Pleazer 2.0 body was ordered through an overseas vendor. Finally, courtesy of AMain Hobbies, the remaining parts were ordered: wheel hub extensions, aluminum motor mount, CF motor mount plate, GTR shocks, Losi springs, motor, front & rear body mounts, wheels & tires, and other necessary hardware. As I already replaced the servo several months ago, and I already have the ESC (Hobbywing), all that's left is to wait for everything to arrive, and then get to work.

    I might not have gotten any physical work done on my Rusty today, but I sure spent a lot of money in prepping for what I will be doing soon. Looking forward to getting this project complete, and getting the "new" Rusty back on the track.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  19. #19
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    57
    I picked the battery’s I’ll be purchasing when I pick up my rusty and 4x4 that count?

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    693
    Today was 'Step 2' of my "Rusty 4x4-to-'true' stadium truck" conversion. I removed the front & rear assemblies, removed all electronics & other items from the chassis pan, and then dyed the chassis pan black. I also assembled the front & rear JConcepts CF shock towers.

    Next up will be disassembling the front & rear diffs, completely cleaning them (including the individual great), and filling both with diff fluid (as I understand it, considering I've never disassembled the diffs before, the factory spec is diff fluid in the rear, and packed with grease in the front). The (minor) "problem" is deciding what weight diff fluid to put in. This vehicles primary use is on an indoor, off-road, clay track, with occasional outdoor asphalt use. Put another way, this is for race use, and not "bashing".

    Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  21. #21
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    13,532
    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Next up will be disassembling the front & rear diffs, completely cleaning them (including the individual great), and filling both with diff fluid (as I understand it, considering I've never disassembled the diffs before, the factory spec is diff fluid in the rear, and packed with grease in the front). The (minor) "problem" is deciding what weight diff fluid to put in. This vehicles primary use is on an indoor, off-road, clay track, with occasional outdoor asphalt use. Put another way, this is for race use, and not "bashing".

    Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

    You have it backwards: from the factory 30k is in the front, grease is in the rear.

    You may want to consider changing the diffs - or at least the rear - to the XO-1/ERBE/E-Maxx BL cup and carrier support. Since I had extra cups lying around from my nitro Revo (I went through the standard cups all the time, but since switching to the brushless version nine years ago I've yet to blow a diff) I installed them on my Slash 4x4 by changing out the cup and installed the side diff carrier supports (didn't have the I-beam) and filled it with 5k fluid; the gears and rest of internals are the exact same. You'll need 3978 and 6882X (for the I-beam).

    https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...-ML-121120.pdf

    From my Revo manual:
    Use higher viscosity (thicker) oil for:
    • More power to the wheels with the most traction.
    • Racing on low-traction smooth surfaces.
    • Better performance for climbing on uneven terrain.

    Using lower viscosity (thinner) oil for:
    • More power to the wheels with least traction.
    • Racing on low-traction rough surfaces
    For example: the race-ready Revo Platinum Edition came with 50k front and 10k rear.
    Last edited by Double G; 07-17-2019 at 03:04 PM.
    The Super Derecho

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    693
    I plan on doing the XO-1 diff conversion, but not just yet. I've already got enough money pouring into the current project, I don't want/need to increase the cost. However, when it does come time, I'll be doing it 3x over, as I'll be doing the XO-1 diff conversion on this vehicle, the Slash 4x4 rolling chassis (which I'll be building into a Toyota SCT), and another Rusty 4x4 roller (which I'll be converting into a 1/8 buggy).

    I figure, it's easier to do all three together, as opposed to doing them one-at-a-time, 2-4 months apart. Part of that stage will also include the XO-1 center diff conversion on the other two (possibly this vehicle, as well...but, that's undecided).

    Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  23. #23
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    402
    Just having fun bashing in the california sierras. I recently changed to some big bore shocks, and raised the ride height.

  24. #24
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    33
    Replaced the a-arms with the Traxxas HD ones in blue - finally realized I was disassembling the servo linkage wrong this whole time so that operation will be a lot easier in the future.

    Derp.



    You can see the crack on the a-arm where it pivots on the pin.

    Next to it is the rod end from one of my HR sways which is also broken with a crack through the thinnest portion. No surprise to me really since it was on the same side.

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
    Replaced the a-arms with the Traxxas HD ones in blue - finally realized I was disassembling the servo linkage wrong this whole time so that operation will be a lot easier in the future.

    I've been considering those A-arms since before they were released (they were listed on the Traxxas website, but no one, including Traxxas, actually had them available). How does the weight compare (if you have the ability to weight them, in grams or ounces...especially grams, being more accurate) to the stock A-arms? Please, give us an update after you've run them several times.

    As for the servo thing, I know exactly what you mean...discovered my "error" in similar manner.

    Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  26. #26
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    38
    I finally got the aluminum parts: caster blocks, steering blocks, and stub axles. Put the GTR shocks on and the VG springs. Pinion and spur will be here tomorrow and the Lunsford titanium turnbuckles will be here Monday.

    The shocks and springs are NICE! Friday needs to hurry so I can run it lol.

  27. #27
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    33
    Sorry, I did not weigh them but they have to be within a few grams of each other since it is the exact same design just using a different plastic for the HD model.

  28. #28
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    VT
    Posts
    79
    Quote Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
    Replaced the a-arms with the Traxxas HD ones in blue
    Quote Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
    Sorry, I did not weigh them but they have to be within a few grams of each other since it is the exact same design just using a different plastic for the HD model.
    Icehawk: Do you have a Traxxas PN for the blue A-Arms, or better yet, a link to them? I was under the impression that the Ruster 4x4 came with the HD arms already (just in black, not the 'pretty' colors ;-) ), so I was surprised that you seemed to think that the Blue ones were a different plastic type (not just the same plastic, only blue).

    I'm all for stronger stuff, but I thought that in this instance, Traxxas had already given us the 'stronger stuff' as Stock.

    Thanks --BillJ

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
    Sorry, I did not weigh them but they have to be within a few grams of each other since it is the exact same design just using a different plastic for the HD model.
    Understandable about not weighing them. But, different types of place can have drastically different densities, so they might not be "within a few grams of each other". It is easily possible for one type of plastic to weigh twice as much as another...the difference between the lightest & heaviest plastics is several times the weight.

    For example, Teflon has a density of 2,200kg/m3, while LDPE had a density of only 92kg/m3, equating to a density that's almost 24x greater. Obviously, I'm not trying to say the two plastics used by Traxxas have anywhere near that level of difference...I'm just trying to show how plastic weights can be quite different (and, yes, I did work in the plastic industry...many years ago).

    Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by Single_Trac View Post
    Icehawk: Do you have a Traxxas PN for the blue A-Arms, or better yet, a link to them? I was under the impression that the Ruster 4x4 came with the HD arms already (just in black, not the 'pretty' colors ;-) ), so I was surprised that you seemed to think that the Blue ones were a different plastic type (not just the same plastic, only blue).

    I'm all for stronger stuff, but I thought that in this instance, Traxxas had already given us the 'stronger stuff' as Stock.

    Thanks --BillJ
    I just did a quick "check", myself...and, it appears you are correct. The stock A-arms of the Rustler 4x4 are the 3655. Next, checking against the 'Parts List' PDF, all of the A-arms listed are 3655. The stock ones are black, but they're also available in 5 other colors. And, thus, I've answered my own question about the weight...lol

    Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  31. #31
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    693
    Today, I placed the last of the parts orders (ok...there might be one more order, that being a SS/aluminum center driveshaft from GPM Parts) for what I'm about to do to my Rusty 4x4. Based on this parts list, those reading this should be able to put 2+2 together, and figure out what's about to take place. In no particular order, the parts are as follows:

    Futaba R324SBS Rx
    Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer 2.0 body
    T-Bone Racing A-skids, XV4 front bumper, and chassis skid
    Hot Racing wheel hub extensions (+15mm),
    King Headz aluminum motor mount plate
    Traxxas XO-1 F&R diff parts, 7415X body mounts (x2), & GTR shocks x4 (rear) w/ Losi rear springs
    JConcepts #2477 suspension conversion kit
    Tekin Redline Gen3 Spec-R 13.5T motor
    Tekno clamping wheel hex set
    STRC CF electronics mounting plate, & aluminum motor plate

    Obviously, certain parts are not listed, such as servo, ESC, etc. That's because I have already purchased (and installed, for certain parts) them, or am holding off (such as the XO-1 front & rear driveshaft conversion) until a future date. Once all parts have arrived, I will take photos throughout the process, and will create a new thread for posting the project. As for my Slash 4x4, and my Rustler 4x4-to-buggy, projects, those are on hold for a little while (ie. can't afford to do them just yet).
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  32. #32
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    33
    Huh, didn't realize the truck already came with the HD ones - that's nice and I certainly feel like the one that broke had lived a good life. TRA3655P are the blue ones I got.

    I'm aware of plastic densities - but it was clear to me from handling them there wasn't a large difference if any (and as we know now... there wasn't any difference at all!).

    Looking forward to your build Panther.

  33. #33
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    33
    Got the servo today and it's bit better but I'm thinking I need to feed it more power. I'm seriously considering some more upgrades in the steering area because it's all so sloppy.



    Looks like I can use this adapter https://www.headsuphobby.com/T-Plug-...or_p_1045.html to splice a BEC in and pump it up to 6-7v or so and get better performance. Do I need to cut the red wire from the ESC to the Receiver like this says?

    https://rogershobbycenter.com/wiring-a-bec/

    Any suggestions for an inexpensive BEC with proper plugs included?

    Sorry, electrics are my weakness and solder is my bane.

  34. #34
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    38
    Took off the front & rear driveshafts and the turnbuckles. Starting the process of putting the turnbuckles together, talk about painstakingly boring, and then a good ol fashioned cleaning of everything.

    Got some 50wt oil for the shocks that I'll be putting in once I get everything back together. Still trying to find that sweet spot in ride height for dirt, grass, and gravel.

  35. #35
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    38
    Waiting on my driveshafts and sway bars to get here, my sway bars will be here today but I don't know about the driveshafts. Really wanting to finish this thing so I can run it.

    Please watch the language. -ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 07-24-2019 at 03:11 PM.

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    693
    Today, one good thing, and one bad thing.

    Good news: I built the new XO-1 diffs going into my Rusty, filling the front with 15K, and rear with 10K (for those considering telling me I need to go higher, remember this is a race, not bashing, vehicle). The first went together quite easily, although the second gave me some 'trouble' when I was trying to slide the gear assembly into the diff casing (as is said, third time was a charm).

    Bad news: Upon opening the two GTR shock packages (7462), I discovered that three of the shocks had their caps on so tight, it was as if they were glued into place. Trying everything I could think of, including two different shock wrenches, nothing was able to remove the caps from those three shocks. Even worse...and something I discovered before discovering the shock cap problem...one of those same three shocks also has an ever-so-slightly bent shaft, approx 1/4" above the bottom of the shaft.

    Thankfully, I ordered them from AMain. I've already contacted them, an RMA (for replacement) was already created, the shocks are already been boxed back up, and the UPS return label has been received, printed, and taped to the box. Next stop, UPS...and, then, to work (how else am I going to pay for all these upgrades...oh, yea, and my other bills).
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  37. #37
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    38
    Ugh, sway bars came today and my driveshafts are in transit. Trying to change delivery instructions so I can pick it up at the USPS, but "there seems to be a technical difficulty" with my request. I just want to run it!

  38. #38
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    38
    Sway bars are on, new MIP X-Duty drive kits are in, shocks got some new oil in them.

    Been running around my backyard and in the gravel, can't wait to hit some jumps and dirt.

  39. #39
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by dllnwtsn View Post
    Sway bars are on, new MIP X-Duty drive kits are in, shocks got some new oil in them.
    Just be sure to have them adjusted correctly...too loose, and they can't do their job; too tight, and they won't do their job. When I first attached them to my Rusty, I had them just slightly too tight - while they could rotate up/down (just barely), they had absolutely no side-to-side movement. After loosening them just a 'hair', they rotated up/down properly, and they had just a smidgen of side-to-side movement.

    What helped me adjust them properly, and know they were adjusted properly, was watching some of the videos on YouTube. Since then, I've built (from kits) a 1/8 4WD buggy, a 1/10 2WD buggy, and a 4WD tiring car chassis (for USGT class), and I was able to get them all properly adjusted the first time.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  40. #40
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    38
    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Just be sure to have them adjusted correctly...too loose, and they can't do their job; too tight, and they won't do their job. When I first attached them to my Rusty, I had them just slightly too tight - while they could rotate up/down (just barely), they had absolutely no side-to-side movement. After loosening them just a 'hair', they rotated up/down properly, and they had just a smidgen of side-to-side movement.

    What helped me adjust them properly, and know they were adjusted properly, was watching some of the videos on YouTube. Since then, I've built (from kits) a 1/8 4WD buggy, a 1/10 2WD buggy, and a 4WD tiring car chassis (for USGT class), and I was able to get them all properly adjusted the first time.
    Yeah, when I first put them on they were tightened all the way. I was like wth, why are they not working! Then I loosened the little washer a tad, just enough to move without flopping around. Night and day difference.

    Still trying to figure out the ride height and shock setup. I do lots of jumping and I don't like the slapping the chassis does.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •