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  1. #1
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    What did you do to your Rusty today?

    These threads usually get lots of good posts, lets get one going here too!


    First thing I did today was repair the problem I had yesterday - the original steering horn had stripped last week so I replaced it with an alloy one but didn't bother to use any Loctite on the screws. I was bashing around the backyard and at one point lost steering - the darn screw & ball pivot on the horn backed out and are lost to the ants now. Thankfully I got a set of Stampede front shock guards in the mail yesterday and they happen to include 2 ball pivots in the hardware that I didn't need for that install so I was able to repurpose one and fix the steering up.

    The Stampede front guards I'd recommend - they fully protect the lower mounting points of your shocks and, if you have them, sway bars (I have HRs) both of which in my case were taking a little bit of a beating. For $8 they shouldn't be a concern anymore, and the guards fit perfectly. I only used the shock bolt to mount them as it's secure enough and makes it a lot easier to work with than if I'd also through-mounted the sways, as-is they fit fine behind the guard.

    Today I got a set of 2.8 Duratrax Bandito MTs and blue stripe Traxxas GTR springs (replacing blacks), popped those all on. The springs don't seem to be very stiff, I've still got preload cranked WAY down to get the a-arms level. The shocks are all on stock lower mounts, outermost upper mounts - if anyone thinks I should change that let me know, I am still new to tuning this. The wheels and tires look awesome IMO and the traction on my driveway and on my concrete patio gets this thing to flip on its back or do massive wheelies if I'm not careful (2S batteries), with the stock tires I could get a little lift sometimes but that was it. Nice to be able to pop the front up just before hitting a jump.

    I also got some alloy hexes but have no clue whether I should actually use them (a bit worried about damaging the plastic wheels) or how to install them. I bought them because they were $2

    Lastly I ordered a set of the MIP drivers, sick of using mediocre allen keys and today was payday. I wish they offered a ratcheting, slim, handle for the 1/4" drive versions though.


    What did you do to your Rusty today?

  2. #2
    RC Competitor
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    Feb 2019
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    I've been brutal on the talon wheels!! 3S with an 17 pinion. I'm tearing up the parking lot as I'm coming out of the apex turn full throttle! Sometimes it will drift a bit or fish-tail. But those tires will be barking

    I'm going to break something. I'm not sure yet, but something has to give with that punishing brutal abuse I'm giving it

  3. #3
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    Well, I ordered some pinion gears for the boy's Rustler 4x4. That count? :-)

    A couple of days ago, the boy and I upgraded his brushed Rustler 4x4 to Brushless by installing the motor and ESC from the VXL version of this truck. We re-used the 10T pinion gear, and set the mesh correctly. The 2S Test run lasted all of 2 minutes. Oops!

    I ASSumed that we had screwed up the mesh, and stripped the spur gear, but no. The pinion gear broke! Seems that DearOldDad managed to over torque the set-screw on the pinion gear, and the actual gear broke right where the set-screw is (allowing the gear to spin freely on the motor shaft). So, No-Va!

    Ordered up a 9, 10, 11, 12 so we have some options to play with.

    Yea, I know that its not a fun, exciting thing, but it's what is going on at the moment...

    --BillJ

  4. #4
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    Nov 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
    These threads usually get lots of good posts, lets get one going here too!


    First thing I did today was repair the problem I had yesterday - the original steering horn had stripped last week so I replaced it with an alloy one but didn't bother to use any Loctite on the screws. I was bashing around the backyard and at one point lost steering - the darn screw & ball pivot on the horn backed out and are lost to the ants now. Thankfully I got a set of Stampede front shock guards in the mail yesterday and they happen to include 2 ball pivots in the hardware that I didn't need for that install so I was able to repurpose one and fix the steering up.

    The Stampede front guards I'd recommend - they fully protect the lower mounting points of your shocks and, if you have them, sway bars (I have HRs) both of which in my case were taking a little bit of a beating. For $8 they shouldn't be a concern anymore, and the guards fit perfectly. I only used the shock bolt to mount them as it's secure enough and makes it a lot easier to work with than if I'd also through-mounted the sways, as-is they fit fine behind the guard.

    Today I got a set of 2.8 Duratrax Bandito MTs and blue stripe Traxxas GTR springs (replacing blacks), popped those all on. The springs don't seem to be very stiff, I've still got preload cranked WAY down to get the a-arms level. The shocks are all on stock lower mounts, outermost upper mounts - if anyone thinks I should change that let me know, I am still new to tuning this. The wheels and tires look awesome IMO and the traction on my driveway and on my concrete patio gets this thing to flip on its back or do massive wheelies if I'm not careful (2S batteries), with the stock tires I could get a little lift sometimes but that was it. Nice to be able to pop the front up just before hitting a jump.

    I also got some alloy hexes but have no clue whether I should actually use them (a bit worried about damaging the plastic wheels) or how to install them. I bought them because they were $2

    Lastly I ordered a set of the MIP drivers, sick of using mediocre allen keys and today was payday. I wish they offered a ratcheting, slim, handle for the 1/4" drive versions though.


    What did you do to your Rusty today?
    I did not actually do this today, but I am just uploading this today, wanted to impress some of my friends, so I pulled a 70, mph speed run, then tried to do a double backflip off a brand new ramp. I ended up breaking one of the front driveshafts (still stock, I am too lazy/cheap to upgrade them). That reminds me, does anyone have any suggestions for very cheap front driveshaft replacements? Preferably under $35

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke s View Post
    I did not actually do this today, but I am just uploading this today, wanted to impress some of my friends, so I pulled a 70, mph speed run, then tried to do a double backflip off a brand new ramp. I ended up breaking one of the front driveshafts (still stock, I am too lazy/cheap to upgrade them). That reminds me, does anyone have any suggestions for very cheap front driveshaft replacements? Preferably under $35
    If you are simply looking for replacement parts, seems to me that a pair of these:
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/6851A
    should get the job done, and all for (before shipping) $24

    If you are looking for upgrade front driveshafts, that's a different story

    Good Luck --BillJ

  6. #6
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    Apr 2019
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    Alright made a few changes, mainly dropped to a smaller rear sway and finally set the end points on my servo. I'm not loving the angle of the conrod between the bellcrank and horn so I may try another horn style so I can get it lined up better, I wish it was easier to work on that part of the truck but it's a real pain.

  7. #7
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    Jun 2019
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    Just bought it today!

  8. #8
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    Livermore, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke s View Post
    I did not actually do this today, but I am just uploading this today, wanted to impress some of my friends, so I pulled a 70, mph speed run, then tried to do a double backflip off a brand new ramp. I ended up breaking one of the front driveshafts (still stock, I am too lazy/cheap to upgrade them). That reminds me, does anyone have any suggestions for very cheap front driveshaft replacements? Preferably under $35
    If you want upgrades there are quite a few ebay vendors selling Tekno 6851x for about 35-40

  9. #9
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    So... today I watched this video:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NYCZbkZAnY
    that purports to show how to convert a Brushed Rustler 4x4 into a Brushless Rustler 4x4. As part of that conversion, the video indicates that the slipper clutch is different between the two vehicles.
    I thought that this was odd, as I've seen a few posts here that indicated that the slipper clutch was the same between the Brushed and Burshless. Watching the video tho, it does seem like with the vehicles this guy is working on, there are different slipper clutches on the Brushed and Brushless Rustler 4x4. I looked at the parts listing for the two vehicles here on the Traxxas site (and the documentation that shipped in the boxes for the boy's Brushed Rustler 4x4, and my Brushless Rustler 4x4), and it looks like the two SHARE a slipper clutch.

    With such conflicting info, I decided to pull the rear-clip off of both vehicles and see for myself: Do they both have the same size slipper clutch?
    And the answer is: YES they Do. For the two Rustler 4x4s in my possession (one brushed, one brushless) they BOTH have the same (larger?) slipper clutch assembly. Case Closed.

    I'm not sure where the guy in the video sourced his Brushed Rustler 4x4 from, but the one that I got, has the same slipper clutch as the brushless version.

    --BillJ

  10. #10
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    He was hard to watch but his video was uploaded shortly after Christmas.

    Maybe the first run of brushed had different slippers but since they have been changed to VXL. He shows the difference between what he removed and installed.

    He mentioned the differentials being different, yes, the ring and pinion are different size/teeth but the cup and internals are the exact same. Not sure how that makes the VXL "stronger" - just gears it up a bit. You want stronger diffs go with the XO-1.
    The Super Derecho

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    He was hard to watch but his video was uploaded shortly after Christmas.

    Maybe the first run of brushed had different slippers but since they have been changed to VXL. He shows the difference between what he removed and installed.
    Yea, sorry about forcing ya to sit thru that. For the record, the slipper clutch parts are shown side-by-side at ~ 3:25 into the video.
    The guy making the video also fails to address the lack of TSM on the Brushed version (I believe that would require the TSM receiver, and TQi transmitter).
    --BillJ

  12. #12
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    Dec 2018
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    Wasn't today, but I did have my first "major" break on the Rustler. With the weather warming up, I decided to put my big Trenchers back on and run the Rustler on 2s. Still plenty fast for me in the backyard with a 13t pinion. It was short lived, though. Drove full speed right into my grill and broke the front right arm. My Tekno drive shaft popped out, so the front right wheel wasn't moving. Took a look and the arm was barely hanging on to the pin. My dog was really bummed... Lol

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier tmbold's Avatar
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    Oct 2014
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    Louisiana
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    Today I broke another turnbuckle, not really broke but the threads pull out of the plastic. Replaced the plastic pieces but it keeps happening. Any ideas on I strong turnbuckle replacement. Itís mainly in the rear


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmbold View Post
    Today I broke another turnbuckle, not really broke but the threads pull out of the plastic. Replaced the plastic pieces but it keeps happening. Any ideas on I strong turnbuckle replacement. Itís mainly in the rear
    I managed something similar - the screw that holds the rear-right turnbuckle to the rear bulkhead came out pulling the plastic threads from that bulkhead.

    I ended up replacing the rear-bulkhead. The turnbuckle is secured to it, but not so tight that I risk pulling the threads out.... or so I hope.

  15. #15
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    Bought an IR gun so I can figure out if it is the ESC or the motor that overheats in our summer heat - my guess is probably both

  16. #16
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    Installed the Powerhobby motor and ESC fanset - took just a couple of minutes to install. I should get a chance tomorrow to test them out under duress, I'll run the heavy tires and see if I can use a full 5200 battery.

    Any suggestions for replacement off road tires? Not looking for chunkers from Proline, thinking stock or similar low-profile tires.

    After that is an upgraded servo (I have a "20kg" generic from Amazon now that works OK) and probably a DHawk bellcrank to go with it.

  17. #17
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    Finally broke a front a-arm, it split at the forward mount. Considering the abuse I've heaped on the Rusty I have just been waiting for this to happen. I went ahead and got the HD "cold weather" replacements which will come sometime this week.

    Also ordered an EVO P2 servo ($62 shipped) which I hope will improve steering performance and not require a BEC.

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Today, I didn't do anything 'with' my Rusty...but I did start preparations to convert it into a proper Stadium Truck. First, I picked up the JConcepts #2477 Suspension Conversion Kit. Next, I ordered a few parts (front bumper, A-skids, & chassis skid) from T-Bone racing. After that, a replacement body, in the form of a Pro-Line Crown Pleazer 2.0 body was ordered through an overseas vendor. Finally, courtesy of AMain Hobbies, the remaining parts were ordered: wheel hub extensions, aluminum motor mount, CF motor mount plate, GTR shocks, Losi springs, motor, front & rear body mounts, wheels & tires, and other necessary hardware. As I already replaced the servo several months ago, and I already have the ESC (Hobbywing), all that's left is to wait for everything to arrive, and then get to work.

    I might not have gotten any physical work done on my Rusty today, but I sure spent a lot of money in prepping for what I will be doing soon. Looking forward to getting this project complete, and getting the "new" Rusty back on the track.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  19. #19
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    I picked the battery’s I’ll be purchasing when I pick up my rusty and 4x4 that count?

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