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  1. #41
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dllnwtsn View Post
    Yeah, when I first put them on they were tightened all the way. I was like wth, why are they not working! Then I loosened the little washer a tad, just enough to move without flopping around. Night and day difference.

    Still trying to figure out the ride height and shock setup. I do lots of jumping and I don't like the slapping the chassis does.
    There should be a fairly simple "fix", although there more then one option. You could replace the front shock's shafts with longer shafts. Ultimately, you could replace the front shocks with rear extra-long shocks, and add some spacers. A third option would be similar to the second, except no spacers, and replace the front shock towers with rear shock towers. Just a few options, although there are probably others.
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  2. #42
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    I need a heat sink for my motor, preferably top of the line, and maybe a fan.

    Which one do you guys recommend? I heard HR fans are flimsy, and integy are just as bad.

  3. #43
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    Got less than 5 minutes of drive time after I got to the park - broke a rear output shaft at the pin. Ordered a stock replacement for now.

  4. #44
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
    Got less than 5 minutes of drive time after I got to the park - broke a rear output shaft at the pin. Ordered a stock replacement for now.
    Didn't they tell you, you've not supposed to drive it in reverse, full-speed, into a brick wall?

    Seriously, they the exact same spot the exact same thing happened to my Rusty, while on the race track. In my case, another driver how my right-rear.
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  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
    Got less than 5 minutes of drive time after I got to the park - broke a rear output shaft at the pin. Ordered a stock replacement for now.
    You can take the front driveshafts off and run it as a 2wd. I broke my rear output yoke and just used one from the front until my MIP X-Duty driveshafts arrived.

  6. #46
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    I thought about it but I was so hot I just headed home, at this point I'll probably just leave it until the part comes in since the weather here is so brutal it's not like I'm going to miss out on prime driving time - even with the added HSF on the motor and ESC the car still can't run more than ~4k maH before shutoff.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
    I thought about it but I was so hot I just headed home, at this point I'll probably just leave it until the part comes in since the weather here is so brutal it's not like I'm going to miss out on prime driving time - even with the added HSF on the motor and ESC the car still can't run more than ~4k maH before shutoff.
    Yeah, my buddy had an old Rustler body that he gave me for free. I cut the windshield out, the "small" side windows out, and put some old mesh that I got from an old mesh clam digging bag that was lying around.

    Helps keep the temp down for me until my HSF for the motor and the esc fan arrive.

  8. #48
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    I've thought about it but I get so much crud inside the body already - not sure I want to do that.

    I did go ahead and order a BEC just now to try and get some more juice out of my new servo so we'll see how that goes. I got one that is all prewired so it I don't need to solder or cut anything up, it's just plug & play.

  9. #49
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    The other weekend I put in Slash 4x4 takeoff GTR shocks I got off eBay, installed a cheap amazon servo after my factory one failed after a couple weeks and installed a motor heatsink and fan from Amazon. The fan fits perfectly and is working great so far, just need to rotate the motor to get the wires out of the way and had to buy a 6Ē wire extension for it to reach the ESC.

    Now I just need to tune the shocks with the right oil and maybe different springs, the set I ordered came with the blue dash springs.

    Link to the heatsink and fan
    HobbyMarking 1/8 RC Motor Heatsink Cooling Fan 40mm Aluminum Heat Sink for 1:8 Truck Buggy Crawler RC Car 540 550 Elektric Motor

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
    I've thought about it but I get so much crud inside the body already - not sure I want to do that.

    I did go ahead and order a BEC just now to try and get some more juice out of my new servo so we'll see how that goes. I got one that is all prewired so it I don't need to solder or cut anything up, it's just plug & play.
    I've got a dust cover for mine, so cutting the windshield wasn't as issue. I'll take a picture of my body and post it to show you. I think it looks cool lol.

  11. #51
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    Ordered some ProLine 2.8 Trenchers on RAID wheels, some 11t hardened steel pinion gears, some 9t pinion gears, heatsink/fan combo, ESC fan, and an Innovation Cooling graphite thermal pad for the motor.

    Next upgrade will be a bigger mAh battery. What would be better: Traxxas 6400mAh 25c (3s) or SMC 6400 mAh 75c (3s)?

  12. #52
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dllnwtsn View Post
    I've got a dust cover for mine, so cutting the windshield wasn't as issue. I'll take a picture of my body and post it to show you. I think it looks cool lol.
    The dust cover might make it look "cool", and it might do a good job of keeping rocks & things out of the chassis pan, but it causes excess heat, as it cuts off the air flow that helps to keep the ESC & motor cooler. Even if you have a vented dust cover, or a mesh style, they still don't allow an enough air flow. I'd suggest talking with people who've used them extensively, and find out what it did to their ESCs and/or motors.
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  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by dllnwtsn View Post
    Ordered some ProLine 2.8 Trenchers on RAID wheels, some 11t hardened steel pinion gears, some 9t pinion gears, heatsink/fan combo, ESC fan, and an Innovation Cooling graphite thermal pad for the motor.

    Next upgrade will be a bigger mAh battery. What would be better: Traxxas 6400mAh 25c (3s) or SMC 6400 mAh 75c (3s)?
    If the ratings are accurate then you'll get more amps out of the SMC and will be less taxed than the Traxxas. If you change to a different power train in the future then the SMC will be able to handle the load.
    The Super Derecho

  14. #54
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    100% onboard the SMC battery train. Currently, ALL of my batteries are SMC.
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  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    If the ratings are accurate then you'll get more amps out of the SMC and will be less taxed than the Traxxas. If you change to a different power train in the future then the SMC will be able to handle the load.
    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    100% onboard the SMC battery train. Currently, ALL of my batteries are SMC.
    Will this battery fit in the Rusty? https://www.smc-racing.net/index.php...product_id=548

  16. #56
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    I don't know for sure but you can view the battery tray specs under the Rustler and compare it to what SMC provides. If I recall those dimensions probably will fit.
    The Super Derecho

  17. #57
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    What connector is needed?

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by dllnwtsn View Post
    Will this battery fit in the Rusty? https://www.smc-racing.net/index.php...product_id=548
    These are the dimensions of the 3s 5000 traxxas tra2832x. Its the battery I got and the battery traxxas recommends for the rustler. It barely fits. There is a little bit of length room as you can rip out that little cushion in there.
    Length: 135mm
    Height: 28.5mm
    Width: 44mm

    So no that smc battery wont fit.

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdave13 View Post
    These are the dimensions of the 3s 5000 traxxas tra2832x. Its the battery I got and the battery traxxas recommends for the rustler. It barely fits. There is a little bit of length room as you can rip out that little cushion in there.
    Length: 135mm
    Height: 28.5mm
    Width: 44mm

    So no that smc battery wont fit.
    Battery Compartment:
    143mm x 50mm x 25mm *42mm with optional battery strap (included)

    SMC Battery:
    Length 139mm / 5.47in
    Width 48mm / 1.89in
    Height 37mm / 1.46in

  20. #60
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
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    Ram my rustler for the first time today. Ran a full battery through it. This thing is a monster!!! I have an emaxx, sla2h, sl4sh and now this rustler and its amazing how very different they are! Canít wait to start upgrading this little thing! Hp trenchers and mip x duty driveshafts are probably gonna be the first upgrades. Going to see how far we can push that vxl then getting something from castle. Any recommendations?


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  21. #61
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    Motor fan, thermal pad, and esc fan will be here today.
    I ordered a pinion from Robinson Racing, and I didn't notice it was a 5mm bore. So, I had to order a reducer sleeve which will be here tomorrow.

  22. #62
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    Fans are on and fit snug. Hit some jumps and did a few cartwheels. They didn't move at all, kept the temps down a lot.

    Going to try the stock 17t pinion and see how fast I can get it. I've hit 41 with the 11t pinion.

    Ordering a clear body, TBone Racing XV4 bumper, wheelie bar, and skid plate here shortly. My wheelie bar has started cracking the body around my wing. The TBR bar doesn't go up as high into the body, hopefully that will help keep the body from breaking.
    Going to toughen up the inside of the body as well, just not sure what I'm using for that just yet.

  23. #63
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dllnwtsn View Post
    Ordering a clear body, TBone Racing XV4 bumper, wheelie bar, and skid plate here shortly.
    You're gonna really like the T-Bone parts. I've got the bumper, A-arm skids, and chassis skid.
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  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    You're gonna really like the T-Bone parts. I've got the bumper, A-arm skids, and chassis skid.
    I have the Stampede arm skids.

    What connector do I need for this battery to work with my traxxas connector? https://www.smc-racing.net/index.php...product_id=548

  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by dllnwtsn View Post
    I have the Stampede arm skids.

    What connector do I need for this battery to work with my traxxas connector? https://www.smc-racing.net/index.php...product_id=548
    Purchase the battery with the Traxxas connector. Traxxas's legacy and current connectors are compatible with each other.
    The Super Derecho

  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Purchase the battery with the Traxxas connector. Traxxas's legacy and current connectors are compatible with each other.
    Thanks man.

    Now to upgrade my servo. Do I go with the Traxxas 400 or something else?

  27. #67
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Today, I got quite a bit done on my 'true stadium truck conversion' project. Last week, I built the XO-1 front & rear diffs, pre-assembled the JConcepts suspension conversion kit, and dyed the chassis pan black.

    Today, I started by reinstalling everything in the chassis pan, including the new Futaba Rx. Yes, as planned, I will be replacing the ESC & motor, but not until everything else is complete. Besides, I want the opportunity to do a few test runs using the VXL system, before replacing it. Also, before anyone comments on the front wheels/tires being on the wrong side, I know, and I don't care...they will be removed all least a couple more times before this project is complete.

    Anyway, after reinstalling everything in the chassis pan, I completely disassembled the front & rear assemblies, cleaned everything, and installed the new diffs in the diff housings. After that, I installed STRC aluminum steering arms w/ servo saver. Next, while reassembling the front & rear assemblies, I installed the JConcepts carbon fiber suspension conversion kit (not including shocks, see below). Then, I installed the new T-Bone XV4 front bumper & chassis skid. Finally, I disassembled the stock rear bumper (the wheelie bar was removed a free months ago), cut the wheelie bar mount off, and used a Dremel to take it down to its final shape. Right now, those areas are a bit rough, but, when finished, it will look "proper".

    I decided to hold off on installing the new GTR XX-Long shocks, as I was running out of time for today. It could be another week...or, a few weeks...before I can continue. Time, and my constantly-changing work schedule, will determine that. In the meantime, here's a few photos. It's coming together slowly...but, it's coming together.

    Last edited by Panther6834; 08-02-2019 at 06:17 PM.
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  28. #68
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    Looking good there. How much (or hopefully little) slop is in your steering setup now? Did the additional skid plate add any chassis stiffness?


    Replaced the broken driveshaft - wow, that was so easy! I must say I am impressed by how easy this truck is to work on. Traxxas

    The BEC arrived but isn't hooked it up yet, it will require some thought on how to integrate it cleanly - I wish the leads were just a little bit longer as that would open up a few more spots to hide it. I've emailed the maker because he says on his site I don't need to cut the power lead on the ESC but I want to be sure before I either fry it or cut a wire unnecessarily.

    I went with this setup for the easy no-cut wiring and adjustable voltage range:

    https://www.freewebstore.org/heyok-p..._19792544.aspx

  29. #69
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
    Looking good there. How much (or hopefully little) slop is in your steering setup now? Did the additional skid plate add any chassis stiffness?
    The skid isn't to stiffen the chassis...that's what the VG Racing center brace (not shown in photo, as I haven't reinstalled it, yet) is for. As for the chassis skid plate, it serves a few 'functions' - it helps to protect the bottom of the chassis pan, and keep it clean; it prevents the screws, and screw holes, on the bottom from getting clogged-up with mud, dirt, etc; it helps to prevent dirt, pebbles, etc, from getting into the servo, steering arm, & servo saver.

    When you look at competition-grade vehicles, you'll notice that the bottom of the chassis is smooth. Most Traxxas vehicles, on the other hand, have a "3D" chassis pan. What I meant by that is, the word 'Traxxas', as well as other areas of the bottom, are raised, thus creating areas that can get caught on things. The skid plate eliminates that possibility. Something I'll also be installing are A-arm skids, also made by T-Bone Racing, and for which I also have for my Slash 4x4.
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  30. #70
    RC Qualifier tmbold's Avatar
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    How much does that skid weigh?


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  31. #71
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    Added Gtr shocks and aluminum lower arms all around. Both additions were because stock weren't holding up anymore.

  32. #72
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmbold View Post
    How much does that skid weigh?


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    Didn't think of weighing it before installing.
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  33. #73
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Almost forgot something - shock oil weight. The stock weight, work the Ultra shocks, is 30 on all four. Before starting this project, I was running Pro-Line ProSpec shocks, with 45 me front, & 40 in the rear, but I'll be switching to Traxxas GTRs (rear XX-Long on all four). I'm estimating that the finished vehicle will be the same weight, but possibly lighter. The "problem" is that I'muncertain whether to decrease the shock oil weights (maybe 40 front, & 35 rear?), or keep them as they were. Suggestions?
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  34. #74
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Today, had very little time (which I wasn't even expecting) to work on my project...but, at least I got something done.

    First, got the GTR shocks filled with oil (40 front, 35 rear), and Losi springs installed (silver front, green rear). Next, balanced the compression, front L&R, then rear L&R. Finally, installed the shocks, followed by reinstalling the VG Racing center brace...oh, yea, and I put the wheels/tires back on the correct sides (just for the "fun" of it...lol).

    I had to look for my oil kit (20-45, increments of 5), as it wasn't where I thought it was. Anyway, in searching for the oil, I found the packages of sandpaper that I've been looking for, to properly finish the rear bumper. Other than painting & installing the body (and body mounts), replacing the ESC & motor, and a few other minor details, it's almost finished.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  35. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Almost forgot something - shock oil weight. The stock weight, work the Ultra shocks, is 30 on all four. Before starting this project, I was running Pro-Line ProSpec shocks, with 45 me front, & 40 in the rear, but I'll be switching to Traxxas GTRs (rear XX-Long on all four). I'm estimating that the finished vehicle will be the same weight, but possibly lighter. The "problem" is that I'muncertain whether to decrease the shock oil weights (maybe 40 front, & 35 rear?), or keep them as they were. Suggestions?
    According to the online manual (page 25) the stock ultra shocks weights are 50 in the front and 30 in the rear for the Rustler 4x4 VXL. I just looked it up prior to filling my GTR shocks to start with a baseline.

  36. #76
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    Ordered some Losi shock oil (30-60wt). Going to run a 50/40 and see how it goes.

    My trenchers will be here tomorrow and my SMC battery will be here Friday.

  37. #77
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    Those Trenchers have so much grip in the grass.

    I changed up the positions of the shocks and it just glides over uneven terrain. Hitting jumps is awesome now that I've found that sweet spot lol.

    I'm loving those Trenchers on the RAID wheels, can't wait to try them out in the sand.

  38. #78
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    The pinions arrived...48 pitch, not 32! Now I have to wait til Thursday for my 32p pinions to arrive. Thankfully I have a few 11t pinions, they aren't hardened though so I eat em up fast with the steel spur.

  39. #79
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    Battery showed up today. Fits nice and snug. Charging it up to test it out tonight. I'm going to the beach tomorrow.

  40. #80
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    After some trials & tribulations my Rusty is working - when I tried to connect the BEC I got a fast flashing green light After updating everything it still wouldn't work - turns out there is a bad channel on the receiver as I was able to get everything working after trying a few different channels. I managed to get everything tidied up too so no more wires everywhere.



    Anyone know what rod end I need to repair a Hot Racing swaybar? I've gotten zero response from email so far.

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