Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    3

    Drive Shaft Questions

    Hello,
    First post...newbie disclaimer here. Haven't had an RC car since the 80s and I just last week picked up a Stampede 4x4 VXL. Exposing my kids to the hobby and having a blast myself!

    Running 2S LiPo batteries everything stock. Got through about 6 or 7 charged batteries before I broke a rear drive shaft. After looking at it and researching a bit, I am convinced the stock plastic will constantly break under the torque of the engine and abuse we put it through.

    To get the truck running quickly I grabbed a set of Stub axles as it was the one plastic side of the U joint on the left stub axle that broke.
    As a long term fix I grabbed a pair of MIP X-Duty rear CVD driveshafts (figured I can return if I decide to do something else).

    I did not buy a set for the front as I am already sinking more money into this on top of the initial purchase. I grabbed a pair of backup stock fronts for now should we break one of those.

    Some questions I have:
    -What is the concensus on the MIP X-Duty Drives? I saw a bunch from Integy on Amazon that were cheaper, but didn't get great reviews.
    -Should I bite the bullet and do the fronts too?
    -The guy at the shop did say that the front MIP X-Duty do not work with RPM parts. Is that a reason to stay away from the MIP for the front? Are there other upgrade caster blocks that do work with MIP. And if he said this I missed it, but do the rear MIP not work with RPM parts?

    My thought process is to have a few of the things that typically break on hand as spares, but identify items I may want to upgrade as part of the break/fix process.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    4,151
    I have Tekno M6ís in mine. Theyíre great and donít nearly as much as the x-Dutyís


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    129
    I have had great luck with my Tekno stuff but lots of guys swear by the MIPs. The rears take more of a beating than the fronts but you will most likely break a front at some point. I would just wait and order the aftermarket axles then. That being said you could always get them now and save yourself the future downtime. I thought MIP were compatible with RPM and it was just Tekno that had issues but I'm not positive.
    Slash 4x4
    Rustler VXLs

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    4,151
    Tekno setup comes with everything youíll need as far as caster blocks etc. You can buy extra dog bones if you shatter them on 4S doing standing backflips.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,279
    Yeah the guy at the hobby shop misinformed you. It's the Teknos that aren't recommended for running with RPM parts not the MIP. Here is the disclaimer and explanation from the Tekno website. Gives a good explanation for you.

    https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr6852...-4x4-rear-6mm/

    I only have experience with the MIPs, but I do own a few Tekno trucks and have never had an axle issue in my Teknos. Knowing what I know now, I would of went with the Tekno axles based on their lightness and the ease of repairand parts replacement. IMO dogbones are always better than CVDs, less pieces parts, screws, etc. to fail or loose, just better overall ease of use. The rebuild kits for the MIPs are exspensive and the individual parts like stub axles and drive hubs are very pricey. The Teknos you'll likely only ever have to replace the pins, which are cheap. The bearing captured stub axle is just a better simplistic design and the lightened drive cups allow for just the right amount of flex that they don't wear. Tekno just makes top notch products.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    3
    Thanks all for the input. Those Tekno M6s do look a lot easier and at half the cost I am going to give them a try and return the MIPs I bought.
    I got a new stub axle on to replace the broken one and the truck is running again.

  7. #7
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    192
    I have the MiP rears. So far the one side screw pin comes loose. Even with blue loctite. I will have to try the Teknos on the front. I keep snapping front yokes lol.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Van. Island British Columbia
    Posts
    831
    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    I have the MiP rears. So far the one side screw pin comes loose. Even with blue loctite. I will have to try the Teknos on the front. I keep snapping front yokes lol.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    You can always put a 1/2 inch wide band of heat shrink over the pins and you won't lose anymore and it's easy to remove.

  9. #9
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    192
    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    You can always put a 1/2 inch wide band of heat shrink over the pins and you won't lose anymore and it's easy to remove.
    That is a great idea!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    28
    Another vote for Tekno. Been running them since 2011 and only broken one driveshaft.

    They are lighter and simpler to rebuild. As Nickruger mentioned, the bearing captured pin is way easier than cleaning grease off a set screw enough to loctite it.

    As far as I can tell all the variants are still passing the power through the same size CV joint, which seems to be where material is at its minimum anyway?

    Personally I also much prefer the stock Traxxas arms over RPM (or the newer Traxxas arms). The more flexible materials allow a lot of flex that adversely affects handling I reckon, especially steering. Iíve only broken two stock arms in my time too and that was after being around 3m and 7m in the air.

  11. #11
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    28
    Oh, and the Tekno 17mm hubs are also a better option than the competition IMO.

    Also Tekno runs 6mm shafts and 6x12 vs 5x11 bearings which are way stronger.

    You can run the Traxxas XO-1 alloy front knuckles (6439) which are stronger at the king pins than the supplied Tekno plastic parts. The supplied rear plastic hubs are great.

  12. #12
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,300
    I've been running the x-duties on mine for over 2 years. Have had 3S in it for the past 10 months. Other than the occasional set screw being lost at the diff, I haven't had any issues with them even running 2.8" trenchers which are grippy.

    I did switch to a center diff when I started running 3S though to calm down the wheelies some. Fast Lane Machine cup with ~350K oil in it (mix of 200 and 500). The plastic cup warped/died after my first run.

    I had the truck for 1 month before getting the x-duties as it seemed every time I took it out, one of the sliders broke on me. That was with 2.8" chevron tires, which don't get a lot of grip.

    Also have upgraded to 17mm hubs now that I'm on 3S:


    Running the HW max10 sct and hobbystar 3665 3100kv motor with 14/54 gearing at the moment.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •