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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Cool Indoor carpet XL-5 Titan Buggy

    Whatup Forum! Although not finished, I want to show my latest project:



    This is a spare parts build and my version of an indoor carpet econo-buggy.



    I think this esc came from one of my original P2des! A Titan brushed motor is sitting in the mid motor configuration.



    Lot's of little goodies in this rig...but the best part of it (and the part I am looking forward to the most) is the tranny. I put a lot of effort making this tranny and it is one of the best I have made yet. More details in the coming weeks as details are finished. Here's some more pics:





    MTFBWY

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Nice work!!!

    I like the placement of the XL5, it looks cool and should stay cool.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Another awesome project! Of course you know how much I love these spare parts builds - just look at where my wife's truck wound up, after all. I really like that you're sticking with the Titan and the old XL-5 ESC - that was such a fun setup on the wife's truck as well.

    I'll be very interested to hear the details on the trans. As you know from my builds, I'm a firm believer that a quality built, smooth trans is essential to great performance.

    I continue to get a huge laugh at how similar we think on certain things. On this build the rear body mount idea you came up with is very similar to what I did for my trucks Truggy rear body mount. On mine I used a cut down, standard Slash body post and mounted it on top of the RPM trans case in the "step down" area (closer to the motor) from where you mounted yours.

    What shocks are those? They look like an older Kyosho SC6 type of shock.

    As with all of your other slick projects, I'm looking forward to hearing how this does for you on the track.
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Thanks GreatScott, that was the plan. I was looking for an electric hot-rod look and the air flow is a secondary benefit. I ran an outdoor titan bandit for a few months and didn’t have any heat issues with the motor OR esc…I guess we’ll see how it does indoors with some “pounding”.

    FTD, the trans came out really good. I think the most important area of these tranny builds is shimming the top drive gear. I heard you say it before…it cannot be stressed enough. If there is “play” in the top drive shaft (and spur gear) there are going to be weird binding issues as the car flexes along with worn spur gears, heat issues and just a non-freely moving tranny.
    Belive it or not, I went with a stock diff! The indoor track is so small and tight, I’m not sure I need an oil-filled diff. So I went with a stock diff and applied a LIGHT amount of Lithium grease to the diff internal gears. The diff is smooth and is as lightweight as possible. I haven’t installed the servo or a few other minor things like a chassis protector/transponder, but with battery I had a weight below 1600 grams.
    I used some ACER ceramic bearings…I haven’t used them before…but they seem pretty good on the bench. I removed some of the shields and didn’t see any thick grease or oil on the bearings. I was planning on removing any factory oil or grease but didn’t need to.
    The tranny received my last STRC top shaft so I could take advantage of the upgraded slipper.
    I usually use marine grease on the internal tranny gears, but I decided to use some more lithium grease (lightly) on the outside of the diff ring gear/idler/top drive gear.
    After assembly, I can spin the outdrives and they spin for a few seconds…nice and free. I think this will help extract some more performance out of the Titan. The top drive shaft is solid with no movement and no binding.

    The caster mod is necessary to use the metal caster blocks with these a-arms. The outer pin hole needed to be reamed…I ended on a 1/8th inch drill bit…seems like the perfect combo with no play of the pin. The caster block also needed the inside edge-profile shaped with a dremmel, otherwise the block will not have free range with suspension compression. As a final touch I beveled the edges to make it look nice. I haven’t drilled a new camber link hole yet, but I may…I want to drive it first and see how it steers before modding that.

    I used the front shock tower that Factory Works made for me which was designed with FTD’s help and is meant fo the front of the bulkhead. Just a reminder that this mod works well for the stock or RPM bulkhead, but would be a bit difficult with a metal bulkhead (although I think it is possible with some adjusting of the aluminum bulkhead.) Moving the shocks to the back of the shock tower also necessitates an a-arm mod. This was accomplished by removing the plastic “webbing” behind where the normal shocks mount.

    FTD, those ARE some kyosho sc6 shocks. They were really cheap from Dollar Hobbyz and I picked them up a while back. I DO have a few other sets of shocks to use if they don’t work well. It’ll be interesting to see as they are a bladder-less design. I was able to get a good feel after filling and they are surprisingly smooth. The tolerances between the piston and the body seemed a little sloppy…we’ll see!

    The lower deck was a experimental design from FW. The top deck and battery box came from the SRT-R buggy that I deconstructed due to the excessive flexure of the chassis. This top deck extends further back than a standard TRX style deck and I like that. I will probably use the bottom deck from that deconstructed SRT-R to make a new top deck that extends all the way back to the tranny connector piece.

    I am trying not to buy any additional parts for this rig…and so I used some wood to carve out a piece for the tranny to connect to the batter box. It seems to work pretty good. I don’t think I’ll be using this bottom deck or battery box for anything else…so I plan on “gooping” the parts together along with the normal screws for some added rigidity and durability. This is kind of like when I was putting together a “flint-lock” 50 caliber black powder rifle. I ended up “glassing” the barrel to the wood. Yes I know I won’t be able to take it apart, but I never plan to.

    Things left to do include: Figuring out where the antenna will go, disassembling the chassis parts in in order to glue everything together (not everything, just the battery box, wood piece, top deck,) chassis protector, battery strap, suspension settings, and electronic calibration; maybe some stickers.
    MTFBWY

  5. #5
    RC Racer
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    What a sweet project, looks great!

  6. #6
    RC Racer
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    Wow, that's really cool! Did you say whether this was a custom chassis, or one from an earlier project? Also, you're making me want to spend money! That's bad! I don't have enough to pay for weekly track fees (the reason I haven't visited my local carpet oval yet). Great job!

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danner View Post
    What a sweet project, looks great!
    Thanks Danner!

    Quote Originally Posted by Is_It_Broken? View Post
    Wow, that's really cool! Did you say whether this was a custom chassis, or one from an earlier project? Also, you're making me want to spend money! That's bad! I don't have enough to pay for weekly track fees (the reason I haven't visited my local carpet oval yet). Great job!
    The bottom deck is G-10 and was a prototype for a TRX-B chassis. The upper deck came from a different experiment. I hear you about the track fees! It is 15$ for a practice session and I think it is 10 or 15 for a race. However, with the string of recent track closures I happy to pay...good thing I can't go very often due to time mainly (although my family is trying to tighten the budget !




    Does anyone know if this way I have my rear camber links angled is a problem? It was a way to get the link away from the spring...just don't know if this is a problem. Part # shown.
    MTFBWY

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    The upper link only needs to maintain an up/down linear motion. As long as the ends are at a reasonable parallel position to where they mount (which they are perfectly parallel in the picture), they're fine. Another innovative solution to an unusual problem.
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    Whatup Forum! Although not finished, I want to show my latest project:



    This is a spare parts build and my version of an indoor carpet econo-buggy.
    hey man, you have the same ESC and motor that i do on this old, outdated Stampede 2wd i have. I scavenged a part from it for my new Slash 4x4 i got the other day (Yes i broke it three days in. don't judge.) but i think the Stampede still salvageable. How'd you make it work? my remote is trashed, but i saved both crystals and already have a new receiver for the car. I can send you pics if you need, but it would be awesome if you can help me save this old thing. I also have the older-gen batteries and connector for it. I'm 90% sure i need a new remote, you'll see why if i send you pics.

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    The upper link only needs to maintain an up/down linear motion. As long as the ends are at a reasonable parallel position to where they mount (which they are perfectly parallel in the picture), they're fine. Another innovative solution to an unusual problem.
    Cool, that's a relief...doing the rods/links can go easy or hard, I just have to dig in the stash and see if I have a rod that will work with whatever ends are on hand or needed. Was glad I had some Ti to use.

    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedieGonzales View Post
    hey man, you have the same ESC and motor that i do on this old, outdated Stampede 2wd i have. I scavenged a part from it for my new Slash 4x4 i got the other day (Yes i broke it three days in. don't judge.) but i think the Stampede still salvageable. How'd you make it work? my remote is trashed, but i saved both crystals and already have a new receiver for the car. I can send you pics if you need, but it would be awesome if you can help me save this old thing. I also have the older-gen batteries and connector for it. I'm 90% sure i need a new remote, you'll see why if i send you pics.
    Sounds good, I bet there are others willing to help as well. Let's see some pictures of what you are working with!
    MTFBWY

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    This is about as far as I got last night:



    MTFBWY

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    The previous picture was just a hint...here's more of the story:

    MTFBWY

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Whatup Ya'll. I'm almost done with building this rig. The last few things include th chassis protector and the tx/rx settings. I have NO idea how this will handle and I'm sure there will need to be some adjustments. Here she is:





    I went with a futaba Rx due to the adjustable parameters the Tx/Rx offers (such us steering end points and abs.)

    I ended up using stock bandit a-arms in the rear but switched the right and left so I didn't have to drill new holes for the shock mount. I used the rpm 3 degree toe-in mounts with reversed a-arms to achieve ZERO degrees toe-in.

    Other stuff:

    This is my favorite wing mount yet...check it out.

    The angled rod ends for the rear have a part # in a previous post.

    The body is an Illusion J-Concepts bandit body...not a lot to choose from, I like the rear cab design for the old school look.

    Thanks for reading this far...the special things about this build include:

    1. The tranny...check it out in a previous post. Shim the top shaft!

    2. Bulkhead mod-this shortened the length and lowered the ride height as well as decrease the kick-up (and thus caster angle).

    3. That's about it. A custom build requires a bunch of time to figure out the little details etc. Such as the shocks:


    MTFBWY

  14. #14
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    We have very different definition of “spare parts” lol.

    Good call on the wing mount. The tower top mount is one of the best ways to mount wings, sort of related but i am surprised more people with backslashes don’t take advantage of existing body posts and mount holes.

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Thanks TwoBelugas, I did recently disassemble a few rcs...so I have a a bunch of parts! I like this wing mount. I've tried a bunch of different ways to mount wings and I think this may be one of my favorites. This design has three mounting points which makes it pretty solid. The wire WILL get bent with big crashes but can be easily bent back into shape, and the flexibility (of the piano wire) preserves the wing with its "give". I was comparing my wing with my son's wing and his is already cracking and mine looks new still. His uses a plastic traditional wing mount and I was using wire. I did have to rebend the wire a few times after significant crashes, but it was easy to "tweak" the wire back into correct shape.
    Thanks again!
    MTFBWY

  16. #16
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    Very cool rig! The ESC looks like a big block chevy sticking out of the hood.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    Very cool rig! The ESC looks like a big block chevy sticking out of the hood.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Thanks! I was shooting for that look.

    Camber adjustments and toe settings are done, powered up everythng and put on a pinion. All that is left is the chassis protector (or rather the carpet protector) as well as some Tx settings!
    MTFBWY

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    MTFBWY

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Looks sweet & ready for the carpet!
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  20. #20
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    Wow. This is an incredible build. I love seeing things like this. I will probably do something similar with my Bandit but for a clay track and brushless.

  21. #21
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    What parts (part numbers) did you use for the wing/wing mount?

  22. #22
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    When should we expect running video?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  23. #23
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    Looks sweet & ready for the carpet!
    Thanks FTD! I let Jeff know at FW that I plan on visiting his place to figure out a carbon deck version. I'm thinking of a version that will have a little shorter length than the stock bandit. The track is tight, any suggestion as to a length axle to axle?

    Quote Originally Posted by ShephardOfFire View Post
    Wow. This is an incredible build. I love seeing things like this. I will probably do something similar with my Bandit but for a clay track and brushless.
    Definitely check out FTD's truggy build...and then get ahold of Jeff at factory works if you want to do a mid-motor version. You can reach him through the facebook page.

    Quote Originally Posted by ShephardOfFire View Post
    What parts (part numbers) did you use for the wing/wing mount?
    The wing came with the body which is an j-concepts illusion for the bandit. The wire mounts are from Factory Works, the wire is a piano wire (spring steel), and the wing-mount parts that attach to the wing are parts from the bandit TRA2615.

    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    When should we expect running video?
    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    I'll try and put something together. It has been super difficult finding time to get to the carpet track. I'm thinking of getting some street tires so I can run them around the house...not that it would function as it would on the high traction surface, but it would still be fun. Thanks for the interest!
    MTFBWY

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    Thanks FTD! I let Jeff know at FW that I plan on visiting his place to figure out a carbon deck version. I'm thinking of a version that will have a little shorter length than the stock bandit. The track is tight, any suggestion as to a length axle to axle?
    I'd go with something around 280mm. The standard Bandit/Rustler wheelbase is 289mm, so 280mm would be short enough to make a difference that can be felt, but not too short as to create problems with room to mount things properly. The TLR 22-5.0 and the AE B6.1 are about a 280mm wheelbase as well, so that seems to be a fairly standard racing buggy wheelbase.
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  25. #25
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    What about the rear shock tower? How did you mount that to the RPM gearbox? Are there already holes or did you drill your own? I hewrd you could use a Nitro Sport rear shock tower.

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShephardOfFire View Post
    What about the rear shock tower? How did you mount that to the RPM gearbox? Are there already holes or did you drill your own? I hewrd you could use a Nitro Sport rear shock tower.
    Hey Shep, I'll post some pics. Both of these builds are a Factory Works design. This latest silver-colored buggy uses some Factory Works parts, but I just used whatever I had on hand to put it together.



    This pic above is from this build thread:

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...id-Motor-Buggy

    You can have the kit either assembled or you can assemble it yourself, and all the holes are pre-drilled. The work from the factory is really nice and is a great way to convert a trx into a mid-motor setup. The kits come with the steering bell-crank assembly (AnL) and the kits also come with both shock towers and the rear bulkhead as well as the battery box.

    Here's a couple other factory works build threads:

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...n-Fiber-Bandit

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...hassis-build-2

    And don't forget to check out FTD's build thread:

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...ning-Long-Read!)

    TTYL
    MTFBWY

  27. #27
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    Does the rear shock tower mount up directly to the front end of the gearbox? Or did you have to drill holes?

  28. #28
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    Hello Shep, the tower mounts to the N-rustler bulkhead (I think that is the rc the bulkhead is for,) and then there is a small connector piece of G-10 that connects the bulkhead to the tranny case.
    MTFBWY

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