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  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jun 2019

    Some Questions: Motor Temp, Shock Oil, Shock Upgrades, and Spare screws

    New 4x4 VXL ll stock with 2S 6500mAh Lipo...

    -local shop said I should be able to keep a finger on the motor after running it and if not I need to adjust my driving habits as it indicates I'm driving too hard. Ran one buttery through it today and I actually did back off on my use of the brakes and tried to ease into th throttle more, but not always. Motor felt pretty hot and while I didnt feel the need to burn myself out may have if I kept a hold of it.
    So it is it really me or is that fairly normal? Should i be putting a cooling fan on?
    -front shock came apart. Top piece it threads into was totally off and I lost some oil. What do I need to replace it and how much should be in it? Not sure how in the world that threaded cap came off when neither piece can spin. So for now I just want to make sure the shock on there is good to go, but it got me wondering if there is a good direct replacement upgrade shock folks like.
    -I have not been bashful about running it in wet conditions. I know I should WD40 screws, but I can see keeping up with that may be difficult as I'm not pulling it apart, drying and reapplying WD40 every time it gets wet. Is there a place to get replacements for a lot of the common screws so I can address ones that start to rust?

    That's it for now

  2. #2
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Touching the motor is not an accurate way to take tempeture. You need a heat gun. Amazon, Ebay , Harbor Freight will have one for under 20$. You really don't want to have sustained motor temps over 165 degrees Fahrenheit. It will be uncomfortable to touch the motor if it's over 120 degrees, if the the motor is 176 or more it can burn your finger in less than a second. See where I'm going here. Running 2s with stock gearing you're probably fine, but you need an accurate way to verify that.
    The shock body is able to spin freely. That's likely what happened. It was probably loose and simply unthreaded from the cap. Aluminum caps do help this, but ultimately making sure they are tight is the best solution. Here are the aluminum direct upgrades.

    The shocks should be filled approximately 1mm from the top of the shock body. If you want a direct upgrade the GTR shocks are a good option.

    For cleaning I use a simple green and a scrub brush. Blow dry with light compressed air. Then I spray down the entire truck with Muc Off MO94. It prevents dirt from sticking, prevents rust, restores plastic, increases flexibility. Great product. If you spray it on to heavy you can also blow the excess off.
    These aren't the same vehicle, but just to give you an idea of how nasty you can get things and how nice they can look still with proper care.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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