Adventures In 3D Printing

[Greatscott]

Seeing these things you guys are making, is in Greatscott's words "AWESOME!" I would like to one day try my hand at making objects in 3D printing. Do you know if there is a way to take a mechanical drawing and have a program turn it into 3D for printing? I can mechanically draw 2D objects on paper (blueprints) but these 3D programs are above my head. I have a great deal of respect for you guys, as you make it look easy!

In a way, this is the way Fusion 360 works. You start out by making a 2D sketch (they even call it a sketch), and you extrude it from there.

Trust me guys, MENSA is not beating down my door to get me to join, and if I can learn this stuff, anyone can.

[Rain Dawg]

If anyone knows...

Is there a physical difference between the original CastleLink and the V3?

I am trying to figure out if I have to modify my design for the V3 to fit...

The bottom is the V3 and it's app 3mm shorter then the original. I hope this helps.

[Greatscott]

The bottom is the V3 and it's app 3mm shorter then the original. I hope this helps.

Many thanks!!!

Looks like I need to get V3 and design a case for it. One thing I have noticed is that there are a number of variations on on the V3. I have seen a few that have shorted USB ports, some have the plastic supports on the output pins, and a few I have seen have leads instead of pins on the output side.

[Rain Dawg]

I hade no idea there was different variations on the V3 design and I'm not sure if they do anything different then the old ones, lol.

[Greatscott]

I hade no idea there was different variations on the V3 design and I'm not sure if they do anything different then the old ones, lol.

On just the V3s I have seen at least three different variations. It is a bit annoying for me, I would like to design a case for the V3, but I am not going to buy all three to do it.

[Rain Dawg]

Your mail box is full.

[Rain Dawg]

This looked interesting, but not sure if you have an application for it. It say's it will hold 20lbs.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:925556

[Greatscott]

This looked interesting, but not sure if you have an application for it. It say's it will hold 20lbs.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:925556

Common man, don't post stuff like this, what is wrong with you? Do you know I have enough projects going on right now, and don't need another one?

Yup, I downloaded it... had to, its cool.

Of course I will have to design a custom parts to make the foot wider, and so that it will fit specific RCs like a glove...

[Scott91370]

I'm not sure of the different versions of the V3 but I can concur that the model that Greatscott has does not fit. I cannot pinpoint exactly where it is hitting. It is a great design though!

So, after printing two of them out for the V2, if anybody would like one shoot me a PM and I'll send it to you.

[Greatscott]

I'm not sure of the different versions of the V3 but I can concur that the model that Greatscott has does not fit. I cannot pinpoint exactly where it is hitting. It is a great design though!

So, after printing two of them out for the V2, if anybody would like one shoot me a PM and I'll send it to you.

Yup, I have seen at least three versions of the V3

[Greatscott]

Here is my latest project, I have been working on it for months, and sadly it isn't a Traxxas RC. I have done a good amount of 3D work on this rig that I would love to show off here, but, I don't want to thread closed.

I will show this though...
I printed some sand ladders right after I got my printer, but I really didn't like the mounts what were part of the file download. They just don't look like they'd hold the ladders if the truck rolled or took a shot. So, I made my own mount, the ladders rest straight down on to the mount and held in by a tiny bunee cord.

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

[Greatscott]

Well, I finally got my hands on a V3 CastleLink and made a case for it. Like the other one, the heat shrink has to be removed.

As far as I can tell, there are two versions of the V3, one with a mini-USB and one with a micro-USB, I have made one for both. Given that I only have the micro-USB variety, that is the only one I have actually tested, so let me know if there are any issues.

image0 by Scott O, on Flickr

The files...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4165708

[Greatscott]

Finally, my 3D printing magnum opus...

A long, long time ago, in a city far, far away (San Diego), I built my first scale truck. At the time the SCX10 was not out yet, and the few chassis that were out were not exactly complete. As a result, frame cross members, braces, skids, and transmission trays all had to be made by hand, or had to have lots of modification to mount up properly. The fruits of my labor is pictured below, the truck in the upper left. When it started out it had AX10 axles and an E-Maxx 2-speed transmission. The transmission itself worked great, but hung down too far and always got hung up, so I swapped it out for a AX10 transmission. There have been a number of mods and improvements that I have made to this guy along the way, and is, for the most part, bullet proof.

Along with the Summit body, I also have Summit bumpers on it, along with the whole complement of Summit LEDs front and back. But, I have always wanted front headlights were the belong in the body. I have tried various light buckets, I have tried making my own, and have been unsuccessful.

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Flash forward to not quite a year ago, I wanted light buckets for this truck, and knew if I wanted them to look right, I would go beyond ready-made buckets and the random RC parts I have in my parts drawers. So, I bought my 3D printer with the ultimate aim for making these buckets. After more than my fair share of Thingiverse downloads, teaching my self Fusion 360, designing and printing all kinds of parts for my other RCs, I have finally realized my vision...

I give you... THE SUMMIT LIGHT BUCKETS!!!!

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

by Scott O, on Flickr

Admittedly, my original vision for these is a bit different than what they turned into, but I do like the result. I was thinking I could put two LEDs in, but was afraid I would only be able to get one in, but realized 3 would work!!!! The trick is that exo-cage bar that comes down right in the middle of the head lights, that is where that hole in the middle lines up, and where the buckets attach with a 3mm screw.

I have had a new clear Summit body sitting on the shelf, just waiting for when I get these buckets designed. I need to wait a month or so for the weather to warm up a bit more so I can paint the body. For the buckets themselves, I cannot decided if I want to mount them as they are, or if I want to sand them up then paint them the same color as the body...

Thoughts?

[DefinitiveCars]

Ao much good stuff in this thread!!! Downloading the TRX4 Stand now. Scott, we really should chat one day! ha. Ive been 3D printing for over 5 years now. But it looks like you have reached my level in a much shorter time! WE could probably learn a lot from each other!

Do you 3D print?
Yes

What printer do you run?
I have the following:
First printer I got - Flashforge Creator Pro (Dual Extruder)
then I got into Monoprice printers.
2x Monoprice Select Mini V2's These are really great for the money and have such a small foot print!
1x Monoprice Select Mini converted to laser etcher
Recently got a Monoprice MP10 which has a 15 x 15" build volume! My favorite yet!

What is your favorite filament and why?
I have only used matchbox other than some specialty stuff like color changing or marble type filaments, but I always find the other brand just don't print as well.

What is your favorite CAD program?
I started with 123Design but moved to Fusion 360 a year ago and never looked back. So much fun making your own things.

What are your favorite 3D printing channels on YouTube?
Unfortunately I don't have much time for watching videos, but I have thought of starting a channel over the years. I just don't think I can invest the time.

Scott, do you have the file for the Full Battery Caps. Thats one big prob I have with my kids. Never know what batts are used not. I would like to add a little ring on the end, or a hole so I could tie it to the battery with elastic so the kids don't loose them too!

[DefinitiveCars]

Meant to put this in may first response. lol

I found your starting post funny, because there really is not a printer out there that just "works" out of the box. At least not long term. Most auto levelers don't work. most build plates get warped and need leveling, not to mention, clogs, jams, broken bowden couplers.

3D Printing is still by far a hobby and not for the timid. That being said, I was sooo surprised by the Monoprice printers. They do just print out the box, at least with the file loaded on the printer. Then when you go to use your own filament and slicer, you need to start tweaking. I did have some issue with one of them where I had to return the unit 3 times before I got one that worked right. There were stepper problems, bed heating problems and what not. But if you get a good one, they really are amazing for the money! I rarely use my $1,000 Flashforge.

Please tell me that you guys have found Octoprint? All of my printers have a Pi attached to them and I just sit on my couch and send files and was watch my prints! If you haven't gotten into this. Please hit me up. It's amazing and makes printing so much more enjoyable.

Also what are you guys using for slicers? I used to use Slic3r but switched to Cura when OS X Catalina came out since Slic3r wasen't compatible. I am soooo happy I did. Cura is hands down so much better.

Heres Octoprint. Printing some fake eggs to get my new chickens to start laying already!

[Greatscott]

Nope, have not gone to Octoprint yet, but toying with the idea.

Right now I am just looking at getting a second printer, thinking about stepping up to resin, but not sure yet.

I am using Simplify 3D for slicing. I used Cura at first, had errors, had to tweak settings, slice and print again. I went to Simplify and have not had any issues. It is a pricy program, but for the lack of failed prints and headaches, it is worth it to me.

[CountOmar63]

I don't recommend resin printing, way too smelly and difficult to use. Get yourself a prusa i3.

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[DefinitiveCars]

I would say to get the mono price MP10 its big and cheap and great for beginners, and is pretty full featured in including their magnetic removable heated bed.

Interesting about Cura. I have prints fail all the time, but because of my design or because of my settings being wrong. Once the settings are dialed it, the thing just prints! Hardly have to level the bed either.

But if you nothing else, GET Octoprint. I will help you set it all up on the phone if you want. Doing it for the time lapse videos alone is a reason. the Pi hardware I think is like 40-50$ on amazon. You can print a case for it, and mount the camera to your printer.

It’s a real game changer!


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[CountOmar63]

I would not recommend a monoprice. Creality makes better machines.

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[DefinitiveCars]

LOL you would really say that after someone raves about them in multiple posts?

Do you or have you owned a MP printer? Cause I have 4 and that are all exactly what they should be. Simple to use, never had a part break on one other than stupid Bowden couplers, and they have all the features of their comparable printers from other brands.

Don’t waste your money!!!! I use my MP printers way more than my expensive dual extruded flashforge. It has its place but it’s a PITA compared to all my other printers.


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[CountOmar63]

Actually, I've owned over 20 3D printers, 2 of them being made by monoprice. I've also owned the creator pro as well. Monoprice uses cheap components in their machines. The creality Ender 3 is FAR better, and it defeats the MP select mini in every aspect.

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[DefinitiveCars]

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[Greatscott]

We like what we like, and more importantly, what works for us. Please do not get in a urination distances rivalry over unquantifiable opinions. It would be a shame if the mods decided to close this thread because it became uncivil.

I don't recommend resin printing, way too smelly and difficult to use. Get yourself a prusa i3.

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This is the biggest thing that keeps me from jumping in. The biggest appeal is the level of detail it produces before any finishing work is done.

I was looking at the Prusa Mini, but all of the reviews I have seen have not been favorable. Prusa is the defacto gold standard for 3D printers, but it looks like they missed the mark wide on this machine.

[NitroBugg]

Really great stuff in this thread!

Haven't convinced myself yet that I need a 3D printer, but the "itch" to get one is still there.

Looked at a few; Monoprice Voxel recently, and the Creality Ender 3 Pro about 6 months ago. But still on the fence. May happen one day. Have a lot of ideas of things that I would like to make.

[Greatscott]

It is difficult to say when to jump into the fray, you don't want that next big thing to pop up right after you have bought the last big thing. The whole thing isn't as scary as some people make it sound, just do your research, understand the process, and learn as you go.

I am still looking for a second printer, it might be this guy when it gets out of Kickstarter. Most, if not all, of the upgrade bells and whistles are included on this one.

https://www.creality.com/art/cr-6-se...rinter-41.html

[NitroBugg]

Still looking, and will make a decision on what I "think" I might need eventually, or if I really need one...but as you said, I want to read all i can about what each model's pros and cons are, do research, and will try and find a good "fit" if there is such a thing.

Will also take a look at the software that runs these printers. Machine is only as good as the software that runs it, and the one using it. I want flexibility, but "user friendly" as well.

Lot to think about before I decide to make a purchase. And want to keep it around $200-$300 range, so if it doesn't work out, I haven't lost a lot.

[StampedeMachine]

So creative! This is an awesome thread. I especially love seeing some of the accurate details like fenders, cargo, and trees!

[Greatscott]

Found a great tool on Thingiverse for sizing metric screws.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4154091

[srider72]

Found a great tool on Thingiverse for sizing metric screws.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4154091

That would be super handy. Guess i need to dive into 3d printing now...

[Greatscott]

That would be super handy. Guess i need to dive into 3d printing now...

It is a wonderful time to do it.

If you do your homework, it really is not that scary of a process. The new Creality CR-6 SE looks awesome, and has a lot of features that should make it easier for the new kids to printing; this will likely be my next printer.

[srider72]

I've been looking at them for a while now. I usually end up going down the rabbit hole if thinking i need/want a larger print bed. The largest thing I know I want to print is a trailer for the blast.

[Greatscott]

That would be large for any printer. Would likely have to make it in pieces, or cut it up in a program like Mesh Mixer.

[srider72]

I figured I would have to do it in sections.

I was hoping to find a "ready made" one, because I'm "efficient! lol But no such luck.

[TwoBelugas]

I was wondering, based on the durability of end product product of yours, is this a viable way to creat wheel well fenders for something like a XO-1? Or would heat formed polycarbonate still be the way to go?

[Greatscott]

I was wondering, based on the durability of end product product of yours, is this a viable way to creat wheel well fenders for something like a XO-1? Or would heat formed polycarbonate still be the way to go?

I am not sure, it really depends on how much abuse and heat the wheel wells will see. There are different filiments that provide better durability, depending on application. Right now I am printing everything in PLA, so far it has suited my needs, but PETG is really the way to go for RC parts, but it is a little finickier of a process to print with. Heat not withstanding, I would say that PLA should work fine for a wheel well, and its durability is more on the designer than the material, given that it should not see that much stress.

I have made wheel wells for one of my RC trucks, there are likely better designs, but they work, and they are a popular download on Thingiverse, so people seems to like them.

These are for the Element Enduro...

Fender by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

To clean things up a bit, I designed a cheesy motor-ish thing...

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

All important, is how they look with the body on...

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

I did cheat a little bit with this design, instead of making a full wheel well, I used the battery tray for the back half.

I still need to get a bit more confidence in my designs. I did wait a good amount of print time and filament getting a design that worked and that I liked.

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

[Squeegie]

Polycarbonate is the strongest to work with (other then the metal filaments), but the cost of equipment to do it properly would be more than the typical hobbyist would have. Maybe design the parts and have it printed somewhere that has what is needed.

I like the "engine" in your rig! Reminds me of the ones in Axial's SCX10 III:



Keep it up!

[Greatscott]

Polycarbonate is the strongest to work with (other then the metal filaments), but the cost of equipment to do it properly would be more than the typical hobbyist would have. Maybe design the parts and have it printed somewhere that has what is needed.

I like the "engine" in your rig! Reminds me of the ones in Axial's SCX10 III:



Keep it up!

Many thanks. I just wanted something engine-ish to cover the servos, and having "engine detail" is worth scale points.

Element (Team Associated) released the *.stl files for an engine to go into the Enduro, and it looks very good. I printed the whole mess out, but with my modifications, does not fit well. I would love to see Traxxas do something like this, throw up some files for scale accessories and such.

This does come to the next great step in my 3D adventure, editing *.stl files in Fusion. I have watched a good number of videos on it, the whole process is a bit convoluted. Trying a couple of different techniques for getting a *.stl back into a solid has proven unfruitful for me, but I am still working on it. There are a lot of files out there that would be more useful for me if I could tweak them to my needs.

[TwoBelugas]

I am not sure, it really depends on how much abuse and heat the wheel wells will see. There are different filiments that provide better durability, depending on application. Right now I am printing everything in PLA, so far it has suited my needs, but PETG is really the way to go for RC parts, but it is a little finickier of a process to print with. Heat not withstanding, I would say that PLA should work fine for a wheel well, and its durability is more on the designer than the material, given that it should not see that much stress.

Good to know, thanks. Perhaps some shoe goo on the inside would help it withstand road spray

Here goes another money pit, lol.

[Greatscott]

Well, here is a project that has me consumed right now, I am making a pony radio. Basically, it is a radio system that connects up to an existing radio. The case itself is its own self-contained radio, in this case, a DX5C, adding five more channels.

This is a basic test print, just to get something physical to plan off of. Once I get the design finalized I'll print it out, assemble it, then use it for a bit, and figure out any changes I want to make.

by Scott O, on Flickr

The steering and throttle channels will just be used as analog, return to center channels.

Why, you ask?

With the ability to design and print now, instead of putting new RCs into my stable, I am going back and correcting the sins of my past builds. Some corrections are minor, some major. The main instigator of this is my Tonka TRX4...

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-k6ET8WW4o

Build thread: https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...onka-Tow-Truck

You can see by video, the drive, steering and lights work great, but the booms look like they are attached to a retarded bird, and the winches are not functional. Given that I need to rip this rig apart anyways to design parts, I am going to revamp the radio system as well.

Currently the truck is controlled with a 12ch RadioLink stick radio. I bought it because the price was good and because it was advertised as a 5-mode radio: Airplane, helo, multi-rotor, glider and surface modes. It does have the first four modes, but there is not surface specific mode. Programming this radio is a bear, given the mode, specific channels and controls are slaved to other channels and controls, and even when you manual reprogram them, the channel/control still isn't freed up for independent use.

Yes, it will take two separate receivers. In the case of the Tonka TRX4, having two receivers is a blessing. Currently I have nine channels plus an external BEC going the the RadioLink RX, which, even with meticulous wire management, turns into a rat's nest. Plus, all of the electronics controlling the back-end of the rig has an extender on it. A second RX will, if nothing else, clean up the wiring.

The next project this system will be used on is my King Hauler. The main radio will control the truck itself, along with the lights, and horn (ESS-1Plus). The pony radio will control the trailer jacks, limit switch bypass, and lights.

[grizzly03]

Curiosity question. Could you convert the "pony radio" 3,4,5 channels to a rheostat control instead of basic on/off commands? Building your own box you would have the room to mount them.

Example: For the Tonka truck booms have two knobs next to each other. Left one control the left boom and the right one control the right boom.