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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Adventures In 3D Printing

    So, I have entered the wild world of 3D printing...

    I have various reasons for wanting to print my own parts. I am mainly interested in printing scale parts for my crawlers, light bars, roof racks, and supporting parts like ESC brackets and RX boxes. Right now I have two giant drawers in my shop with all kinds of random RC parts. If I need a bracket or want to make something I will go to this loosely organized pile of RC goodness and look for the parts that will work for what I am trying to do. If I can't find something adequate in the RC parts, then I will see if I can make it out of aluminum. In the end, I get something that is almost right for the job I am trying to make it do, but you can tell its not quite the right part to be there. I am hoping that between learning 3D software and sites like Thingiverse I will be able to print the exact part I want and get rid of those two parts drawers.

    Getting into it I did a ton on research, figuring out what was the best printers, the best filament and all of the best practices. I have also done a ton of research on drawing programs, which are the most widely used and why.

    Initially I was going to go with Solid Works for a drawing program... It is what the engineers use at work and it seemed pretty powerful (...and, knowing our engineers, has to be easy to use). I figured I would have built in tech support as well. But, the program is EXTREMELY expensive for the initial purchase, and ever expensive for their annual maintenance fee. I tried a couple more out, including Design Spark, which was not as easy to learn as I had hoped. A lot of the guys on the popular 3D printing channels use Fusion 360, and I have started learning that. I wish I could say that I am an expert on it now, but I have barely scratched the surface due to the insane amount of OT I am working now.

    After doing a lot of research I discovered that many 3D printers needed an insane about of tinkering to get them to print both reliably and print with good quality. Not wanting to go down that road I searched out printers that were as close to turn-key as the industry provides. Basically, I wanted a printer that I take out of the box, feed it filament and it just does its job. Indeed, such an animal does exist. One company that is making outstanding printers with little muss of fuss needed by the user to get both reliable and good quality prints is Lulzbot. I found their Lulzbot Mini-2 to be more of less the perfect printer for me, except for one little thing, this printer costs $1500. With my finger hovering over the mouse button, getting ready to pull the trigger on this printer I had a "coming to God" moment. I want to get this toy so I can make toys for my toys, and I am ready to spend $1500 to do it. Closing Lulzbot's page without buying the printer was hard, but I decided to go back and look for other options. Again, going back to the really popular printing channels and seeing what they had highly reviewed led me to the Creality CR10. Its is not set up and ready to go when it arrives like the Mini-2, but from the reviews I saw, it takes a reasonable amount of tinkering to get it up and running, print reliable with great quality. At $400, basically the price of a new RC kit, I could rationalize this purchase better.

    At the end of last week I received it and set it up and did my first test print with it, the classic "Benchie"...
    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    After the successful Benchie, I printed a couple of things out for the printer itself to make adjustments and use easier. The tape works well for first-layer adheasion, but it works too well. The PLA actually bonds into the tape, requiring a good amount of work to get the tape off. I have experimented with a couple of other things for first lay adhesion, the best so far being a glue stick. The next thing I will likely try is Aquanet hair spray, a lot of people say this is the ticket. But, I am also thinking about getting a flexible print bed.

    Printing only small stuff I have had no problems, but I ran into a common issue with this printer when I start my first large print, the glass bed the printer comes with is warped. No amount of bed leveling can remove it, but there are a couple of tricks to try to deal with it. In the end the real "fix" is to get another print bed, and the go-to fix is a 12x12 mirror. Going to get that today, so we'll see how it works.

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Doing some of the tricks to deal with the warped bed, I have completed my first large print, all 10 hours worth, which is one half of an articulating arm.

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Sadly, I don't think I have enough of the PLA that came with the printer for the second half, so I will have to wait for my Matter Hackers order to come in this week.

    Do you 3D print?

    What printer do you run?

    What is your favorite filament and why?

    What is your favorite CAD program?

    What are your favorite 3D printing channels on YouTube?
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  2. #2
    RC Racer
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    The world of 3d printing is a magical and frustrating place. Check out Barnacules Nerdgasm on youtube. He doesn't really upload much anymore but he has tons and tons of 3d printing videos. In his videos he also talks about other 3d printing channels sometimes so I'd say he's a good channel to start with. Good luck!

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrjelly007 View Post
    The world of 3d printing is a magical and frustrating place. Check out Barnacules Nerdgasm on youtube. He doesn't really upload much anymore but he has tons and tons of 3d printing videos. In his videos he also talks about other 3d printing channels sometimes so I'd say he's a good channel to start with. Good luck!

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    Awesome, I will have to check some of his videos out!

    Here are a couple of my favorite channels...

    Make Anything...
    This guy is pretty good, some things are goofy, some are very practical, but he does almost everything in Fusion 360 and walks you through the process.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eGW-VmvHYE&t=1s

    LifeOn
    This guy is crazy, RC crazy. Most of his 3D stuff revolves around RC.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCYRUXrFhZc

    Then there is the 3D Printing Nerd...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oi6uBa1gAok

    All of these channels are great, give great reviews, are will produced, and generally entertaining to watch.
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  4. #4
    RC Qualifier Iansprouse1's Avatar
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    Adventures In 3D Printing

    I print with a crealty ender 3 on PLA filament. For cad I use fusion 360 and it is great! Highly recommend both the printer and the CAD. I use a program called cura to run my printer and cura is free as well


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  5. #5
    RC Qualifier Sp2deSummit's Avatar
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    My cousin has the creality 3D. but it's at my house because my dad is tinkering with it, and he think the bed is warped, just like yours was. He's been having fun printing stuff with it, lol. I don't remember what he uses for CAD.
    I like free stuff!

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Good luck, Scott!
    I have always wanted to get into 3D printing and make parts for my RC cars and Nerf blasters, but have not been able to justify the cost in my head. One of these days the price will hopefully come down enough for me to do it.
    Keep us posted on your progress and have fun!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Out of filament and it is killing me!!! I order four rolls of PLA off of Amazon, three have come in but received ABS. I am not quite ready to take that hill just yet, some I sent them back and reordered PLA...
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  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    After printing a few things to get my feet wet, I printed my first "functional" RC part!!!

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...t-s-TRX4/page4
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  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    The printing continues!!!

    I REALLY need to dig into Fusion 360 and learn how to draw my own parts. Until then, I have been scouring Thingiverse for stuff to print that I find useful.

    Here are a couple of my latest prints...

    One of the practical prints are these Deans plug covers to mark which packs are charged. I used cable ties for this, but I like these little covers, they are pretty slick. I pulled the *.STL file off Thingiverse, and after reading a lot of comments that the prints might have to be scaled to fit, I printed one off with the red PLA I had loaded in my printer.

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    My tester fit perfectly, but I saw an obvious flaw. So, I changed out the red PLA for blue and printed off 25 of these. Nope, I do not have 25 packs, that many would be very unnerving to maintain, but I wanted spares because I know I will lose them.

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    And boom...

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Of course, a color like yellow or orange would be better for standing out, but the blue works.

    I also printed of some sand ladders, I just need to figure out where to mount them. This set will go on my TRX4, but I want to run off a couple more sets for my other scalers...

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    As far as the printer itself, it is working pretty well. I have been experimenting with different first-layer adhesition techniques, so far I am liking AquaNet, but every tells me that it will clog up stuff like the nozzle and fans. The only thing I can think of is that the fumes of the AquaNet off-gassing as it dries. I take the mirror off the bed, clean it and apply a fresh coat away from the printer.

    Also, I am still fighting bed leveling, I think the carriage that the build plate sits on isn't quite flat, but it isn't bad and something I can deal with. With that, I am now thinking I want a smaller volume printer so I can have both working at the same time, and might just go ahead and pull the trigger on a Lulzbot Mini-2.
    Last edited by Greatscott; 06-30-2019 at 06:53 PM.
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  10. #10
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    I'd had a few 'junior level' printers in the past, my most recent was the Ender 3, considering it was more open source etc.

    Bed levelling was always my main issue with it though. I had the same issue as you - it seems to be level in the centre and one side, but there was a certain spot on the bed that didn't seem to want to level. Hence I could get small prints from it fine, but larger prints that covered that slightly deeper spot wouldn't print well without decent bed adhesion.

    Otherwise these printers are fantastic when they work - when they don't its a PITA trying to figure out what's wrong and tinker with it until you get it to a good print level!

    I ended up selling the printer in the end - I really want an Ultimaker 3, but its just too expensive!!!

    Here was my review video:

    https://www.youtube.com/user/iftibashir

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    You suck... now you have me looking at buying one of these too.

    Seriously, great video and great review. The Ender 3 might become my second 3D printer.
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  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Well, I have gotten one of my "practical" prints out of the way.

    The bulk of my RCs run off of my DX5R or my DX5C, and it gets a little confusing at times as to what radio runs which RC. So, I printed out Autobot and Decepticon icons. All of the DX5R RCs are the Autobots, and the DX5C are Decepticons, easy-peasy!!!!

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Also, I am trying to figure out which way to adjust my print bed, the picture below shows the back of the icons, the ones to the right were printed on one side of the bed, the ones to the left the other. Which is the most correct for how they the bed-side of the print should look?

    In other words, should prints be smooth, like the ones on the right, or should they have some texturing, like the ones on the left?

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr
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  13. #13
    Traxxas Employee TireSlinger's Avatar
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    3D printing is pretty popular in this area, and while I'm not an expert by any means, I've seen quite a lot of printed items. Most look like your prints on the right hand side, where the bottom is kind of squished flat.
    Our doubts are traitors, and make us lose the good we oft might win, by fearing to attempt.

  14. #14
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    I love 3D printing. I've been putting this thing together since last August and 3D printing a lot of parts for it along the way, one of them being the bed (designed that on Tinker CAD).


  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post

    Also, I am trying to figure out which way to adjust my print bed, the picture below shows the back of the icons, the ones to the right were printed on one side of the bed, the ones to the left the other. Which is the most correct for how they the bed-side of the print should look?

    In other words, should prints be smooth, like the ones on the right, or should they have some texturing, like the ones on the left?
    From the way I see it - the smoother the bottom, the better it has adhered to the bed, whereas the more prominent lines on the bottom generally means the plastic has stuck, but ever so slightly higher off of the bed.
    I generally went with the former, but as long as you are getting decent bed adhesion it doesn't really matter either way....
    https://www.youtube.com/user/iftibashir

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Great input on the bottom of my prints. Right now I am tweaking my bed level a little between prints to get both sides to look the same.

    To prove just how easily amazed I can be, I printed off a set of dolphins and didn't pay any attention to over hangs or anything that might need supports. I realized when I was looking at my finished print just how much of an overhang there is on the fins of the fish, and it just blew my mind that the printer was able to span this gap with no supports.

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr
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  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    The adventure continues...

    My charger has been down for a while, so I really haven't done anything with my batteries in a while. This last week I received my new Venom 4-channel charger and have balanced charged everything I have. As a result, I have been able to use the "full" caps for my Deans, so far each one has fit perfectly and it is a lot easier to tell what is charged and what isn't.

    Last night I printed out another useful item, a stand for my TRX4s. This stand beats the dog-snot out of the Duratrax stands I was trying to use. Those Duratrax stands fit most of my RCs just fine, but were just not made for the TRX4, I couldn't cycle the steering or run the ESC without tires hitting the stand and causing all kinds of workbench chaos.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3580134

    Overall the print went just fine. I am still amazed at the level to detail that can be printed, the lettering on this stand is super crisp. The file itself is a little odd, and it didn't catch it until I was done with the print, the file has two if the large (foot) sides, but only one of the braces, you need to to make the whole mess work. So, a quick second print and I had all of the parts. I think this is because the two sides are mirrors of each other, and the braces are exactly the same.

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    My printer did have a little trouble with this print. The large sides have countersunk holes for the screws, my printer did not print these well, they actually turned out semi translucent, and would have never held the screw properly. As a result, I went with 20mm screws (the print author recommends 16mm), and washers.

    by Scott O, on Flickr

    by Scott O, on Flickr

    Given the inserts for the braces had no support, the printer actually did pretty well.

    by Scott O, on Flickr

    I tapped out the holes with a 3mm tap and whallah...

    by Scott O, on Flickr

    And... my current TRX4 project, now able to turn the steering and wheels...

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr
    Last edited by Greatscott; 07-14-2019 at 07:45 PM.
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  18. #18
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    That's an awesome little stand there!!
    A nice little project that came out really well!!
    https://www.youtube.com/user/iftibashir

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimdog's Avatar
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    Looks like you are doing good. I suggest trying petg for its durability over pla. It prints as easily as pla and it's better at withstanding heat. I use it for printing Lay down transmissions for carpet racing

    Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Jimdog; 07-23-2019 at 02:44 PM.
    This will TOTALLY work, saw a guy on YouTube do it

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimdog View Post
    Looks like you are doing good. I suggest trying petg for its durability over pla. It prints as easily as pla and it's better at withstanding heat. I use it for printing Lay down transmissions for carpet racing

    Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk
    That is awesome, I am getting to the point where I am looking at other materials to print with.
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  21. #21
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    Hey GreatScott, I use Autodesk Inventor for modelling. I print with a qidi tech 1. My favorite filament is Hatchbox PLA. This filament is a little bit more expensive than others, but almost always has good results. I have printed a few parts for my rc's. These include: Traxxas shock spring retainers, battery hold down, a body mount, and also a TRX 4 rollbar. I have also designed some paddles for my bandit, but I have not tried them out yet.

    Best of luck!

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    That looks like a great machine at a good price. How much dual extrusion do you do?

    I am still an extreme noob here, but from everything thing I have read, Hatchbox is one of the best brands to use. Their filament is very consistent and produces great prints. At this point I am willing to pay a bit more for name brand filament and not have headaches with a less expensive brand.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    That looks like a great machine at a good price. How much dual extrusion do you do?

    I am still an extreme noob here, but from everything thing I have read, Hatchbox is one of the best brands to use. Their filament is very consistent and produces great prints. At this point I am willing to pay a bit more for name brand filament and not have headaches with a less expensive brand.
    Actually, I don't really use the dual extrusion feature at all. In fact, I removed the second nozzle for better precision. The downside to this printer is that it has a very small printing space.

    As for filament. Hatchbox is definitely the best. I also recommend this cheaper, but EXCELLENT filament from ebay which is surprisingly on the level of hatchbox:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-...EgSqcqvyMFlOeg

    I get this filament for 15$ each which is a very reasonable price! I recommend you try out a spool or two for yourself! I do NOT recommend the AmazonBasics filament, though. It is of poor quality, and extremely stressful to deal with. It's the same price as Hatchbox too. Avoid at all costs.

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CountOmar63 View Post
    I do NOT recommend the AmazonBasics filament, though. It is of poor quality, and extremely stressful to deal with. It's the same price as Hatchbox too. Avoid at all costs.
    This stuff kind of reminds me of Integy, some people have great success with it, some people have great nightmares with it. I think at this stage I'll avoid it and stick with Hatchbox, so far my failures have been due to my errors and not due to the filament I have been using.

    Right now I am taking a break from my TRX4 Tonka project and working on one of my trailers. For a home-made trailer it was built very well (don't know who built it), but it REALLY needs fenders and a toolbox. So I found files on Thingiverse that were very close to the shapes I wanted, and scaled them up in Simplify 3D.

    I am going to get everything mocked up, then paint the trailer a gun-metal grey, and install everything.

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr
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  25. #25
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    My printer has been running around the clock for days printing out a miniature forest.


  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    That's cool! Are you going to paint them or leave them? Seems like this would be better done with wood PLA.
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  27. #27
    RC poster
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    Wow, I definitely need one of these printers

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    That's cool! Are you going to paint them or leave them? Seems like this would be better done with wood PLA.
    Yes, I'll be painting all of them. I've never been the biggest fan of wood PLA, and I didn't think it'd work well for this application. When it's sanded and stained it looks cool, but I didn't think that would work very well on the tree trunks.


    I've made some more progress over the week. I printed out a roof rack and accessories, a headache rack, and a couple more trees.

    Last edited by . . . . . . . . . .; 08-16-2019 at 12:43 PM.

  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by . . . . . . . . . . View Post
    Yes, I'll be painting all of them. I've never been the biggest fan of wood PLA, and I didn't think it'd work well for this application. When it's sanded and stained it looks cool, but I didn't think that would work very well on the tree trunks.


    I've made some more progress over the week. I printed out a roof rack and accessories, a headache rack, and a couple more trees.

    That rig is beyond cool! What chassis is under it?

    How are you going to paint the logs?

    My trailer is about 95% done, stuff like this is the reason I got into 3D printing.

    Here it is on the back of my TRX4...

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    It fits my TC4 drifter pretty well..

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    But, my XR10 is a bit out of scale for it...

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr
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  30. #30
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    The chassis was just some generic 6x6 frame rails from a guy in China. Everything else is just a frankenstein build consisting of components from a number of vehicles (some custom stuff as well). As to the logs, I honestly have no idea how I'm going to paint them. I've painted a lot of things in my day, but nothing like that. I'll have two extra logs to practice with. I might reach out to a few modeling communities on Reddit to see if anyone has any insight.

    Is your trailer entirely 3D printed?

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by . . . . . . . . . . View Post
    Is your trailer entirely 3D printed?
    Nope. The frame is steel. It is home-built, but I have no idea who actually built it.
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    Nope. The frame is steel. It is home-built, but I have no idea who actually built it.
    Gotcha.


    I've done a lot of my work with cardboard aided design. I like how easy it is to prototype with a 3D printer. One of the last things I need to design/print are the mounts for the tie-down chains. I get a basic shape and the design I want for whatever I need, and then make a scale version out of cardboard. If I like it, I take its measurements and draw it up in TinkerCAD.



  33. #33
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    Completed a few more odds and ends last night.






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