Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    23

    Traxxas aluminum caster & steering blocks & aluminum rear axle carrier problems

    Hi Everyone,

    So I recently upgraded the front stock caster & steering blocks to aluminum (Traxxas).
    I also upgraded the rear axle carriers to aluminum (Traxxas)

    Since then, I seem to have quite a bit more "slop" in front AND back wheels.
    If I hold the top and bottom of wheel and wiggle left and right there is "slop".
    Same thing if I grab the front and back of wheel and wiggle front to back, there is "slop".
    I did replace the bearings BTW.

    Does anyone have any suggestions on where this slop could be coming from?

    Thanks in advance for any help you can provide...
    -Razzy

  2. #2
    RC Champion NYbandit33's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    1,151
    Did you put the washers back in with the bearings?
    Monster Baja Sla2h VXL
    Rustler VXL

  3. #3
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by NYbandit33 View Post
    Did you put the washers back in with the bearings?
    NYbandit,

    I did put one #1985 washer outside the outer bearing on the front and rear.
    Should I try a second one? Maybe the aluminum blocks and carriers have slightly more space?
    Thanks
    -Razzy

    So I just checked my washers on the rear and found that the inner washer, right after the rear stub axle had worn thin to 0.3mm, I replaced this with #1985 (0.5mm) and this seemed to help.
    Also I noticed that the one of the out washer, after the outer bearing was actually 0.8mm! I think this was one of the stock washers...I wonder if this should have been one of the inner washers?
    I've looked on the exploded view and don't even see this inner washer listed.

    ...thoughts?
    ...thanks!
    -Razzy
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-17-2019 at 10:54 PM. Reason: merge

  4. #4
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by razzy8 View Post

    So I just checked my washers on the rear and found that the inner washer, right after the rear stub axle had worn thin to 0.3mm, I replaced this with #1985 (0.5mm) and this seemed to help.
    Also I noticed that the one of the out washer, after the outer bearing was actually 0.8mm! I think this was one of the stock washers...I wonder if this should have been one of the inner washers?
    I've looked on the exploded view and don't even see this inner washer listed.

    ...thoughts?
    ...thanks!
    -Razzy
    I'm surprised that no one here has suggestions on this. I checked over at the stampede forum and some folks have very detailed suggestions on the thickness of each individual washer and how to remove every bit of wobble at the wheels...

    I think that maybe I have been successful at eliminating the wobble at the rear wheel.
    I found a couple of 0.8mm PTFE coated washers and put them on the inside of the inner bearing and then 0.5mm PTFE coated washer outside the outer bearing...there have also been some suggestions on putting the washer BETWEEN the bearing and the axle carrier, but have not tried this...

    Now I'm going to try various combinations on the front to try to eliminate the wobble...

    Still would very much appreciate any help/guidance anyone could provide

    Thanks
    -Razzy

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Orygun
    Posts
    867
    Razzy8, I think you are spot on regarding shimming. Get a bunch of different sizes/thicknesses...I think its safe to say that we will always need to do some shimming. New parts have tolerance issues and will need some shimming as well as when parts start to wear. When mix and matching different parts I have found different manufacturers items are of slightly different sizes.
    One pair of brand new caster/steering blocks may need a slightly different thickness shim than another brand new set...so I think shimming is just a skill that we need to be good at...especially when putting together a transmission...but the steering components are another great area to tighten up. I also like to shim the a-arms and anything else that has undesired play.

    Question for the shim-masters: when should we use plastic, metal, or PTFE? What considerations lead you one shim material over another.
    MTFBWY

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    Question for the shim-masters: when should we use plastic, metal, or PTFE? What considerations lead you one shim material over another.
    Master? Me? I don't think so...
    Shim shiminy, shim shiminy, shim shim sharoo. Good luck will rub off when I crash into you!

    So when I do a rebuild, I set aside the used teflon washers. Some are wafer thin some are a bit worn.
    Then its just trial and error, with 1 new one and 1 or 2 thin ones to get a better fit for the axle stubs.
    With alum. parts there with always be more slop at the pin holes as the tolerences are needed for assembly.
    With plastic the holes are a little tighter at first but wear quicker, requiring more shimming later...

    I also shim the A arms at either end as necessary. I use stainless washers, thin as I can find.
    I have tried some plastic and nylon but usually doesn't end well when they are so thin.
    Last edited by fortunespoonz; 06-20-2019 at 03:44 PM.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by razzy8 View Post
    I found a couple of 0.8mm PTFE coated washers and put them on the inside of the inner bearing and then 0.5mm PTFE coated washer outside the outer bearing...there have also been some suggestions on putting the washer BETWEEN the bearing and the axle carrier,
    Where'd you find the 0.8mm's and 0.5mm's? That's a gem of info I'd really like, and many can use!

  8. #8
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by fortunespoonz View Post
    Master? Me? I don't think so...
    Shim shiminy, shim shiminy, shim shim sharoo. Good luck will rub off when I crash into you!

    So when I do a rebuild, I set aside the used teflon washers. Some are wafer thin some are a bit worn.
    Then its just trial and error, with 1 new one and 1 or 2 thin ones to get a better fit for the axle stubs.
    With alum. parts there with always be more slop at the pin holes as the tolerences are needed for assembly.
    With plastic the holes are a little tighter at first but wear quicker, requiring more shimming later...

    I also shim the A arms at either end as necessary. I use stainless washers, thin as I can find.
    I have tried some plastic and nylon but usually doesn't end well when they are so thin.
    Thanks Synnergy and fortunespoonz!

    I wondered why I ended up with so much more slop when I switched from plastic to aluminum...that makes a lot of sense
    Great idea on re-using thinned out washers...I don't know why I didn't think of that

    How do you shim the A-arm...where do you find that you usually need the shims?
    Also where do you find your thin metal washers? I have been looking and it's not as easier as I thought...

  9. #9
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by fortunespoonz View Post
    Where'd you find the 0.8mm's and 0.5mm's? That's a gem of info I'd really like, and many can use!
    I'm not exactly sure why, but there was a 0.8mm PTFE coated washer between the stub axle and the inner bearing on the rear.
    The outer washer was 0.5mm but the inners on both sides were 0.8mm
    I have been searching high and low to find a replacement but no luck
    The Traxxas 0.5mm #1985 part is easy to find.
    I have ordered some Tamiyatamiya shims but not sure if they are 5mm internal diameter that I need...will let you know
    Thanks!
    -Razzy

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by razzy8 View Post
    I'm not exactly sure why, but there was a 0.8mm PTFE coated washer between the stub axle and the inner bearing on the rear.
    The outer washer was 0.5mm but the inners on both sides were 0.8mm
    I have been searching high and low to find a replacement but no luck
    The Traxxas 0.5mm #1985 part is easy to find.
    I have ordered some Tamiyatamiya shims but not sure if they are 5mm internal diameter that I need...will let you know
    Thanks!
    -Razzy
    I see what you mean now. I have encountered those thicker ones from time to time on parts trucks.
    Maybe they are the Tamiyas...

    On the main hinge pins front and back and the secondary hinge pins a the wheels.
    The front A arm for example has back and forth play at the bulkhead.
    The idea is to reduce, if possible. Some gaps are too thin to shim.
    With alum parts there is no give to force a shim in so you have to live with a few thousandths more than ideal.
    With plastic, esp. RPM, you can sometimes jam a thin SS washer in there and make it tight.
    It's pretty stiff, too stiff sometimes, and usually needs a bit of a wear in period until ideal.
    This bulkhead/A arm connection is a BIG part factor in front end slop. I change bulkheads often.
    A few extra thousandths here is 10-20 thousandths back and forth at the tires.

    Same idea at the hinge pin/castor and castor/bearing carrier connections. Same idea at the rear...

    Having said all that I'll just admit now that I just gave up and I run my trucks until the ball bearings fall out, then rebuild.
    I just run 'em. When they get loose, I run 'em harder. I have FUN.
    Eventually they get sooo sloppy I gotta rebuild.
    You will ALWAYS have slop, I just how much you want to live with.

    P.S. We have an awesome fastener store in my town with very patient employees that count out all kinds of little tiny rc screws and washers for me.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-22-2019 at 04:26 AM. Reason: merge

  11. #11
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by fortunespoonz View Post
    This bulkhead/A arm connection is a BIG part factor in front end slop. I change bulkheads often.
    A few extra thousandths here is 10-20 thousandths back and forth at the tires.

    Same idea at the hinge pin/castor and castor/bearing carrier connections. Same idea at the rear...
    Do you like the nylon RPM Bulkhead better than stock? This is one place where folks say aluminum maybe better than plastic...but not sure since I do like RPM...

    Thanks
    -Razzy

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by razzy8 View Post
    Do you like the nylon RPM Bulkhead better than stock? This is one place where folks say aluminum maybe better than plastic...but not sure since I do like RPM...

    Thanks
    -Razzy
    It's not the worst place for a little extra weight from alum.
    I like RPM arms. Ive used RPM bulkhead. Didn't see a difference from stock

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Orygun
    Posts
    867
    The rpm bulkhead is slightly lighter than the stock bulkhead (I'm pretty sure) and the rpm comes with a recessed area that you can add weight if you like. The rpm bulkhead is softer and more flexible than the stock bulkhead. I like the stock better than the rpm. Other than the color options of the rpm parts, I don't think there is a need for the rpm bulkhead. I would go either stock or aluminum. FWIW
    MTFBWY

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •