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  1. #1
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    E-revo 2.0 got me back

    After a long stay away from the hobby, stumbling across a used E-Revo 2.0 has got me back into it. I was browsing craiglist for a bit looking mainly for a 4x4 slash but a got a great deal on the 2.0 along with a charger and 4 LiPos



    and after about 30 mins of going from not having a RC to a 6s Revo it looked like this.



    I already have some black RPM arms on the way, as well as a new wing (chewed that up pretty well)

    Other than the crash, which is my fault anyway, i LOVE this thing.

    Any common mods i should toss on while its in pieces doing the arms? Also whats the deal with wheels and tires now? when i was into the hobby there was a ton of "maxx" size tires. Which i beleive revos ran as well, just with 17mm hexes. Now it seems i can only find premounted units. What happened to all the variety? Companies only cares about crawlers now? Or am i just looking in the wrong place.

  2. #2
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    I would get the aluminum rear brace, shock limiting straps to prevent blowing shock rod ends if you bash. Others seem to have issues intermittently with tie rods and ends. Also another common issue is failing steering servos. Just make sure they are set up correctly and not fighting each other. Keep an eye on motor and ESC temps, grab the Bluetooth module for your transmitter and download the app. For motor temps you will need to add a motor temp sensor. Also pillow balls pulling out of a arms seems to be another issue we have all dealt with. Make sure your pillow balls are inserted just until all threads are not visible anymore and make sure the caps for your pillow balls are not over tightened and greased...this seems to really help prevent the pillow balls from backing out then pulling out the a arms. If push comes to shove, some use medium CA glue to hold pillow balls into the a arms. Short of that...drive that beast once fixed and have a blast. Im sure others will post info as well!
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    I would get the aluminum rear brace, shock limiting straps to prevent blowing shock rod ends if you bash. Others seem to have issues intermittently with tie rods and ends. Also another common issue is failing steering servos. Just make sure they are set up correctly and not fighting each other. Keep an eye on motor and ESC temps, grab the Bluetooth module for your transmitter and download the app. For motor temps you will need to add a motor temp sensor. Also pillow balls pulling out of a arms seems to be another issue we have all dealt with. Make sure your pillow balls are inserted just until all threads are not visible anymore and make sure the caps for your pillow balls are not over tightened and greased...this seems to really help prevent the pillow balls from backing out then pulling out the a arms. If push comes to shove, some use medium CA glue to hold pillow balls into the a arms. Short of that...drive that beast once fixed and have a blast. Im sure others will post info as well!
    The pillow ball ripping out is actually what happened to me. I went with RPM bc i figured that would solve the issue.

    As for the brace, is this the one you are talking about?

    https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5632-...gateway&sr=8-1

  4. #4
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    That would be it!
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by micbegls1 View Post
    The pillow ball ripping out is actually what happened to me. I went with RPM bc i figured that would solve the issue.

    As for the brace, is this the one you are talking about?

    https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5632-...gateway&sr=8-1
    Rpm is a softer plastic, while it's not likely to break, holding on to threads on a screw is not their strong point! I seem to remember some one saying rpm was making arms for the 2.0, but don't recall if it actually happened. Make sure that the arms you purchased are compatible with the 2.0. I say save your money, put a drop of ca glue in there and thread it back into the arm. What ever you do just remember one thing, keep having fun!

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    Rpm is a softer plastic, while it's not likely to break, holding on to threads on a screw is not their strong point! I seem to remember some one saying rpm was making arms for the 2.0, but don't recall if it actually happened. Make sure that the arms you purchased are compatible with the 2.0. I say save your money, put a drop of ca glue in there and thread it back into the arm. What ever you do just remember one thing, keep having fun!

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    If you soak your (stock) arms in wd40 over night a time or too they will soften up and flex more, and if you do it without getting the screw holes wet (keep screws in em) they hold well still.... just a tip for those who are cheap (like me) or for those that bash really hard

    Sent from my SM-T827R4 using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    Rpm is a softer plastic, while it's not likely to break, holding on to threads on a screw is not their strong point! I seem to remember some one saying rpm was making arms for the 2.0, but don't recall if it actually happened. Make sure that the arms you purchased are compatible with the 2.0. I say save your money, put a drop of ca glue in there and thread it back into the arm. What ever you do just remember one thing, keep having fun!

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    I to don't think rpm has a arms for the 2.0. The 2.0 a arms are different from the older e revos. They may of came out with them but yet to see anyone post up about it. I also second just some med ca glue on threads and see how she holds. Otherwise replace with the stock part number. Very few of the original eRevo parts fit the 2.0. so use your parts explosion diagram to make sure you have right parts or they are listed as a direct replacement for the 2.0 part.

    I also second the shock brace and straps if bashing.

    Have fun! Hope you got a deal on it.

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  8. #8
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    Wish i would have know that CA glue trick before i ordered and waited for the arms lol truck has been down for 3 days now waiting for them.

    And i double checked the arms on order, it indeed shows for Revo 2.0, they are part numbers 81512 and 81462

  9. #9
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    Well now you know. Can do the ca trick and only swap if it keeps pulling out.


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  10. #10
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    Oh ya thanks for confirming that rpm now has a arms for the 2.0

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  11. #11
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    Whats the deal with tires for this thing? I like the green version of the stock wheels traxxas sells, but will any 3.8 tire fit? Were the bead sits looks different.

    also, as for bodys i take it i can always just swap body posts to a "1.0" style and run a regularly mounted body?

  12. #12
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by micbegls1 View Post
    Whats the deal with tires for this thing? I like the green version of the stock wheels traxxas sells, but will any 3.8 tire fit? Were the bead sits looks different.

    also, as for bodys i take it i can always just swap body posts to a "1.0" style and run a regularly mounted body?
    Any traxxas style bead will work on the the Traxxas wheels. They are a little different but I mounted some proline tires on them without any problems.
    Yes, the body posts from the version 1 erevo fit the the 2.0 allowing you to mount standard bodies.

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Any traxxas style bead will work on the the Traxxas wheels. They are a little different but I mounted some proline tires on them without any problems.
    Yes, the body posts from the version 1 erevo fit the the 2.0 allowing you to mount standard bodies.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    lookin good !

    and that is just what i was looking to hear. Thanks for confirming

  14. #14
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    Tossed on the Arms, Chassis brace and wheelie bar yesterday and ran 4 packs threw it. Man i love this thing.

    Sadly had another casualty, the rear right tire shredded itself

  15. #15
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    Sorry you lost a tire. But had fun doing it... Guys are liking the shockwaves. , Badlands are another ppl run including myself.

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  16. #16
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    hows the ballooning on the badlands? I was going to grab a set of premounts but was scared they are going to balloon to much.

  17. #17
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    They balloon about as bad as the stocks but less than the my six packs.

    Can always strap them

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  18. #18
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    new wheels and tires should be here today.

    Thinking about picking up a set of road tires for the stock wheels now since i have to buy tires anyway. Sadly not much dirt to play in by me, so its a lot of parking lot and skatepark stuff.

  19. #19
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    Well, looks like another issue with the truck. It appears i smoked the motor. Slapped the new wheels and tires on and headed to a local baseball complex to see how they worked. Truck was running great for about 10 mins and then disaster lol

    Was in the middle of a wheelie on the baseball infield and then the truck just fell on its face and barely moved. I thought maybe a driveshaft broke or something, so i drove it back over to me. Picked it up and didnt see anything. Gave it some throttle and it sounded very "coggy" Like maybe a chunk of dirt or gravel was stuck by the spur gear somehow. pulled the body off and gave it some throttle again.... SMOKE from the back of the motor case lol

    It was pretty hot were im from (north NJ) yeserday, and the first few mins before hitting the baseball in field was spend with speed runs in the gravel lot and flying around some deep grass in the outfield.

    So im assuming i overheated the motor and cooked it?

  20. #20
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by micbegls1 View Post
    Well, looks like another issue with the truck. It appears i smoked the motor. Slapped the new wheels and tires on and headed to a local baseball complex to see how they worked. Truck was running great for about 10 mins and then disaster lol

    Was in the middle of a wheelie on the baseball infield and then the truck just fell on its face and barely moved. I thought maybe a driveshaft broke or something, so i drove it back over to me. Picked it up and didnt see anything. Gave it some throttle and it sounded very "coggy" Like maybe a chunk of dirt or gravel was stuck by the spur gear somehow. pulled the body off and gave it some throttle again.... SMOKE from the back of the motor case lol

    It was pretty hot were im from (north NJ) yeserday, and the first few mins before hitting the baseball in field was spend with speed runs in the gravel lot and flying around some deep grass in the outfield.

    So im assuming i overheated the motor and cooked it?
    Based on the description of the conditions you were running in and how you were running, it sounds possible. You can get cogging from a lot of things. Do you know what the motor temp was when it started acting up?

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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Based on the description of the conditions you were running in and how you were running, it sounds possible. You can get cogging from a lot of things. Do you know what the motor temp was when it started acting up?

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    I do not, i dont have anything to read it with. But it was very hot. Smelt like burning electrical, which is always good right???

    it was hot enough that i licked my finger and touched it to the motor case and it sizzled

  22. #22
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    Dang man that sucks. With these trucks, I tell everyone to get the Bluetooth module and add the motor temp sensor. You can set alarms in the app to warn you when hit a temp that you set up. Or if you can't grab that just yet...buy a cheap temp gun...but remember your internal temps are gonna be higher then what the gun reads. Many times I would have kept running but app warned me of temps...pull her in..cool it off and then back in business! Sorry you smoked it man...call Traxxas and see of they will offer you a trade in purchase.
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  23. #23
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Rick is right. An accurate means of monitoring temps is key, probably the single most thing people tend to overlook. I personally got the stock motor over 230f. I did this knowingly, I had a replacement in a lower KV already and I was trying to see what it would actually take. I did that in about 10 minutes of hard run time.

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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    Dang man that sucks. With these trucks, I tell everyone to get the Bluetooth module and add the motor temp sensor. You can set alarms in the app to warn you when hit a temp that you set up. Or if you can't grab that just yet...buy a cheap temp gun...but remember your internal temps are gonna be higher then what the gun reads. Many times I would have kept running but app warned me of temps...pull her in..cool it off and then back in business! Sorry you smoked it man...call Traxxas and see of they will offer you a trade in purchase.
    Is traxxas the best option to go with? the truck is plenty fast for what im doing with it, so i dont need any improvement there. But is there a better option out these that will work with the stock ESC?

    Or maybe just the stock motor again with some form of cooling fan set up?

  25. #25
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by micbegls1 View Post
    Is traxxas the best option to go with? the truck is plenty fast for what im doing with it, so i dont need any improvement there. But is there a better option out these that will work with the stock ESC?

    Or maybe just the stock motor again with some form of cooling fan set up?
    Depends on if they help you out on price. You can definitely pick up a decent motor for 60 bucks or so. Traxxas retail price is 169.99$ for a replacement motor. They might prorate it for you. If not there are better options. I run and like these.
    https://www.rcjuice.com/hobbystar-40...ter-truck.html

    I have a 1550kv, I would recommend the 2000kv with a nice fan setup.

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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I have a 1550kv, I would recommend the 2000kv with a nice fan setup.
    Yeah Racing heatsinks and fans.

    Haven't tried them myself as of yet, but have read plenty of good things about them.

  27. #27
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    I run a dual Yeah Fan set up w heat sink and keeps temps cooler...but dont just depend on them...always monitor temps...but for sure heat sinks and fans help!
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  28. #28
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    I use an ESC that has a motor temp cutoff, I don't remember exactly but I think it's set at 190 deg. Well, that one is on another vehicle. I have a similar ESC for another Revo based project, but haven't really looked at the set up on that one closely. I'm sure the cutoff is on that one too, however.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Depends on if they help you out on price. You can definitely pick up a decent motor for 60 bucks or so. Traxxas retail price is 169.99$ for a replacement motor. They might prorate it for you. If not there are better options. I run and like these.
    https://www.rcjuice.com/hobbystar-40...ter-truck.html

    I have a 1550kv, I would recommend the 2000kv with a nice fan setup.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    that motor will work with the factroy esc? seems like an awesome deal. May pick up that and a set of cooling fans.

  30. #30
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Yes, anything that size will work. If you get many kv less than 2200 it will actually be a little easier on your ESC. The lower the KV the less max amps the motor will draw typically. You make up for the lower kv( less motor rpm's) by increasing the gearing. If you don't know the basics of how motors are labeled here is a quick run down. The stock traxxas motor is a 4275 motor. Meaning it is 42mm in diameter, and 75mm in length. 40 or 42mm is the typical size for 8th scale trucks. Anything 75mm or longer is considered "truggy length" which is the family the erevo falls into. You'll see a common size of 4269, that's a 69mm long motor for "buggy" applications. Buggies are lighter and don't require as big of a motor. So rule of thumb is the longer the better. Unfortunately the erevo only supports only up to approximately a 80mm long motor because of where its located, it won't clear the rear shock mount. A 4282 running the same gearing as a 4275 in the same gearing will run much cooler. I hope I didn't overwhelm you, but anything in the 4275 size range will work as long as it is rated for 6s. Typically anything in that size under 2200kv is.

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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Yes, anything that size will work. If you get many kv less than 2200 it will actually be a little easier on your ESC. The lower the KV the less max amps the motor will draw typically. You make up for the lower kv( less motor rpm's) by increasing the gearing. If you don't know the basics of how motors are labeled here is a quick run down. The stock traxxas motor is a 4275 motor. Meaning it is 42mm in diameter, and 75mm in length. 40 or 42mm is the typical size for 8th scale trucks. Anything 75mm or longer is considered "truggy length" which is the family the erevo falls into. You'll see a common size of 4269, that's a 69mm long motor for "buggy" applications. Buggies are lighter and don't require as big of a motor. So rule of thumb is the longer the better. Unfortunately the erevo only supports only up to approximately a 80mm long motor because of where its located, it won't clear the rear shock mount. A 4282 running the same gearing as a 4275 in the same gearing will run much cooler. I hope I didn't overwhelm you, but anything in the 4275 size range will work as long as it is rated for 6s. Typically anything in that size under 2200kv is.

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    Makes sense to me Nick. Seems low vs high KV seems like a Torque vs Horsepower thing almost.

    Im going to go with the 2000Kv motor and see how it works out.

    Is it worth it to add one of the Hot Racing Heat sink motor plate as well? And one of the Yeah Racing 40mm fans?

  32. #32
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by micbegls1 View Post
    Makes sense to me Nick. Seems low vs high KV seems like a Torque vs Horsepower thing almost.

    Im going to go with the 2000Kv motor and see how it works out.

    Is it worth it to add one of the Hot Racing Heat sink motor plate as well? And one of the Yeah Racing 40mm fans?
    I am going to say yes. If you ran into heat issues with the 2200kv I would get a heatsink and a fan. I don't run a fan on mine and it still can get up into the 170 range and I'm running alot less kv. The reason I didn't recommend that low of a kv for you is because there is a dramatic drop off in speed. You are right it is like a horsepower vs. torque thing. Low kv like mine has loads of torque, but really lacks on the top end. You can overcome that top end drop off by gearing up, I am just happy with the torque, it's what I like. 2000kv will still be nice and peppy and should help you out in the tempeture department. Good heat sink and fan can drop 20 degrees or so, will definitely be an improvement over stock.

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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I am going to say yes. If you ran into heat issues with the 2200kv I would get a heatsink and a fan. I don't run a fan on mine and it still can get up into the 170 range and I'm running alot less kv. The reason I didn't recommend that low of a kv for you is because there is a dramatic drop off in speed. You are right it is like a horsepower vs. torque thing. Low kv like mine has loads of torque, but really lacks on the top end. You can overcome that top end drop off by gearing up, I am just happy with the torque, it's what I like. 2000kv will still be nice and peppy and should help you out in the tempeture department. Good heat sink and fan can drop 20 degrees or so, will definitely be an improvement over stock.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    as for the fans, is there an open slot on the receiver ill be able to plug it into ? Or do i need some sort of splitter connector.

  34. #34
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by micbegls1 View Post
    as for the fans, is there an open slot on the receiver ill be able to plug it into ? Or do i need some sort of splitter connector.
    Stock reciever is a 5 channel. You should have multiple unused channels to plug directly into.

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  35. #35
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  36. #36
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by micbegls1 View Post
    No, that's for 540 size motor, which is a tenth scale 36mm diameter motor. You need one for 8th scale or 40-42mm diameter motors. If you want to stick with yeah racing this one will work.
    http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/ya...er-p-3052.html
    Somebody who runs a fan might chime in with a better recommendation.

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    Last edited by nickruger; 07-05-2019 at 05:09 PM.

  37. #37
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    Eww the erevo needs to be replaced by arrma. its a rip off Nero and is ugly

  38. #38
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    Nah jk yall. the erevo is great!

  39. #39
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    Also i recommend you stick with the stock tires. yeah they rip sometimes but they handler really well and if you poke small little holes into them, they last a lot longer. also the stock motor is plenty in my opinion but the esc could be stronger

  40. #40
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    motor arrived over the weekend, just waiting on the fan set up now

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