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  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
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    1

    Considering E-Revo 2, can weaknesses be fixed?

    Hello.

    I've been looking into the E-Revo 2.0 for a while. But the sad reality is, that almost every thread, every video i find, there is a recurring theme "more so than any other RC ive seen" that something always Always breaks, it can be from just driving it around or bashing. Which so far has be really discouraged, i don't want a money pit. No don't get me wrong fixing stuff is part of RC, but if a person spends more time fixing the RC than actually driving it, that ruins the fun..

    I can see it has issues bending rods, stripping rod ends and breaking be back plastic suspension brace.

    So my questions are as followed, if one were to add metal back suspension brace, limiting straps. thicker shock/push rods and metal push rod ends and glue them. Would this at all minimize the breakage?

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    229
    The modifications you listed above are all it really needs to be basically unbreakable. You might have a dogbone pop out every one in a while but that's fine imo.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,259
    This might get me flamed a little bit, but here goes. I do own traxxas vehicles, but I don't view traxxas vehicles as elite, durable high end vehicles. I once did, but now I view them for what they are, very affordable, well supported, fun ready to run hobby grade trucks. That being said, I think the 2.0 is very good for what it is. I have had very little issue with mine. The mods you mentioned make it very reliable. The pillow balls unthreading and the suspension over extending are the two biggest problems and there is a cheap easy fix for it. For 30$ roughly you can fix most of the issues and upgrade to your needs as you go. Alot of times I think people are expecting too much from a durability aspect. Sure, axles popping out at low speeds or shock rods pulling out from a 5 foot jump are pretty inexcusable, but hitting a tree at 20mph and expecting toe link or push rod to not be bent just isn't realistic. For what the 2.0 costs, and what you need to spend to get it as reliable as you can, there really isn't a better value out there. I am very skeptical and have been very impressed with mine. I got it when it was first released, and I have absolutely no problem recommending it. If you want to go on the hunt for the ultimate basher you can, just be ready to pay for it. I have one that I am into for well over 1500$ bucks and yes, it still breaks sometimes. Take it for what it is and you won't be disappointed. You've done the research, you know what to expect, time to go for it.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    7
    I've not had any of those issues yet. But I don't jump my RC as ludicrously high as I see people do on youtube. No wonder things break lol.
    The center driveshaft did break however. It's only plastic.
    I stocked up on those and also got a metal one of ebay should it be a persistent problem.

  5. #5
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    6
    I've taken mine out 4 times and not yet been through a full charge on my 2S batteries in any one session. I've got the chassis brace and limiter straps, but my biggest reoccurring issue is the suspension rod ends pulling out and pillow balls unthreading. While I probably should have fixed them all at once, I've been adding the CA glue to each as it fails. I also lost my driveshaft due to a rock inside the skid rubbing a groove through the tube but I don't really blame that on the car. I'm hopeful that once I get my steel driveshaft in and all the ends and balls glued, I'll be able to get through a pack without any breakage. Also been experiencing the motor getting too hot with stock gearing. Going to gear it down to a 13T.

    All that being said the car is a blast to drive. I don't puss around with it at all and it jumps amazing. If I can get it to hold up a bit better I'll be pretty darn happy with it. The speed and power even at 4S is outstanding.

  6. #6
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    6
    Figure I should ring in here a bit to update my above post...after fixing the suspension rods with a little CA glue and installing a steel MIP drive shaft, I've now gone several sets of batteries with some ridiculous crashes without any breakage. This is the car I was hoping I could achieve with a few fixes of the identified weak spots.

    I should also add that I have a small water hole at the bottom of this hill that I routinely ramp off the top of and land on the down slope. Well three times now, I've cartwheeled into the water. Twice landing upside down nearly 100% submerged. Blew everything out with my air compressor and no residual issues
    Last edited by clayton74; 07-18-2019 at 06:50 PM.

  7. #7
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,265
    Compared to my ERBEv1, it seems to do a lot better. I converted mine using a 2.0 roller so I could run 6S and hopefully not have to replace the axles twice a summer. I'm still running the v1 motor/esc.

    I have 2 nitro revos for quite a few years and the ERBEv1 for 2.5 years. The v1 was my first dive into electric, and knowing what I knew from my nitro's, I started by upgrading some stuff. RPM arms/carriers (true track in the rear), rear chassis brace, alloy p2 rockers, VDK #2/RC Raven springs/60wt, single servo and steel skid plate protector for the rear. All that before even driving it the first time.

    I then converted to a v2. I transferred my GTR Hard Anno'd/tini vdk shocks, alloy rockers, motor/esc/servo, rear chassis brace, front/rear t-bone and wheelie bar, steel wear plate on the rear skid and tires (t-maxx 3.3 17mm).

    With the v1, I didn't want to run 6S in it due to the diffs/slider axles becoming a persistent problem. So I ran 4S in it for 2.5 years. I converted to a v2 a couple weeks ago so I could run 6S without worrying. I've had it out 2 or 3 times and each time, I run at least 2 sets of packs through it with a 18-23 minute run time (2 different sizes of packs).

    So I'm likely at 10 full cycles. All of which were either at a grass bmx track or a skate park. I was not easy on it for any as I wanted to push it hard to see how it did.

    So far, I've broken one axle carrier. That was the first time out. After inspecting it, the pillow ball seat had a piece missing and it was dirty/old where it was missing, so it wasn't something I broke, the previous owner did.

    The one thing that erks me about the e revo v1 or v2 is the lack of a roll bar to help keep the body from disintegrating in 3 runs. I guess they tried fixing that with the v2 and the roll cage/wear bars inside/on the body. My v2 didn't come with a body, so I'm using the v1 body and mounts I had. I made a roll bar and bolted it to the chassis. It seems to help the body last longer.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

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