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  1. #1
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    E-Revo 2.0 Transmission Or Centre Driveshaft Issues

    Hi All,

    Coming back for some more pearls of wisdom from you fine folk. I seem to have encountered an issue with the driveshaft or transmission. I'm not exactly sure where so hoping you can help me identify where the issue lies? The truck is making a loud grinding noise and when pushing the truck on the ground there is a lot of resistance against the wheels. When upside down the front wheels rotate fine with no noise and the rear wheels rotate fine with no noise but all four wheels do not rotate together when rotating just the one wheel leading me to think something broken on the centre driveshaft or transmission.

    I removed all the skid plates and had a good look around but cannot see anything obvious so I made a quick video. See below:


    It definitely sounds like it is stripping teeth or grinding cogs. I'm just not sure where from. I'm sure it's a pretty common problem and someone here can tell me what it is. Everything is stock with regards to transmission and driveshafts so nothing changed there at all, yet...

    If someone can point me in the right direction as to where the issue lies and what the appropriate fix is I would be very grateful.

    Many Thanks,
    Delirious.

  2. #2
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    Have you checked your mesh between the motor and spur gear?


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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delirious View Post
    The truck is making a loud grinding noise and when pushing the truck on the ground there is a lot of resistance against the wheels.
    I'm wondering what happened prior to this noise. Did you hit a tree? Did you run it around track at Indianapolis? Jump it from a C-130 at 30K feet? Send it into orbit on a Saturn V? Take it apart? Drive it to Hawaii?

    Enquiring minds and such.

    ok ok, so a few of those theoretical situations might be a bit extreme, but that's the life of a person that dares to own an E-Revo.

    The reason I ask is because those sorts of noises typically accompany a preceding event. Like a moon orbit. It's the sort of noise that if your E-Revo were making that noise at the end of a bashing session, you'd notice it and take note of the event that lead up to that noise. It's not something that you just wake up one day, plug in the battery and notice a strange noise.

    Well, that's my theory anyway.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by devzero View Post
    I'm wondering what happened prior to this noise. Did you hit a tree? Did you run it around track at Indianapolis? Jump it from a C-130 at 30K feet? Send it into orbit on a Saturn V? Take it apart? Drive it to Hawaii?

    Enquiring minds and such.

    ok ok, so a few of those theoretical situations might be a bit extreme, but that's the life of a person that dares to own an E-Revo.

    The reason I ask is because those sorts of noises typically accompany a preceding event. Like a moon orbit. It's the sort of noise that if your E-Revo were making that noise at the end of a bashing session, you'd notice it and take note of the event that lead up to that noise. It's not something that you just wake up one day, plug in the battery and notice a strange noise.

    Well, that's my theory anyway.
    Ha ha. This made me laugh.

    Honestly, I was only ripping it up and down a grass field, with 3s LiPo's. I started to notice it sounding a little different at full throttle. It was sounding a little louder than normal but only under full throttle. Half or three quarter throttle and it was fine. It was at this point I thought it was the centre driveshaft or something that was starting to let go. Anyway after a few more runs I rolled it once or twice, end over end under breaking, a very light roll and wouldn't have damaged it, but it ended up on the its roof. As I suspected something was up with the driveshaft I decided to use the self righting button. This was the first time I'd used the self righting button as I'm aware it can damage the gears but I thought to with it as I felt something was not quite right with the high speed runs. Anyway that seemed to kill it off proper. After 1 or 2 rocking backwards and forwards it just started to make a noise. As you can hear in the video, so I cancelled the self righting and walked over to it.

    That was the end of play so I chucked it in the car and took it home for further inspection expecting to see a broken centre driveshaft or somethin but nothing really visible there, well to my untrained eye anyway.

    So, in short, no. No out of orbit jumps, or stratospheric drops. Just some fun speed running on a grass field. The vehicle is almost brand new, probably had about 2 hours run time in total, and I haven't been jumping it other than off a few speed humps but only then about a foot high max. I'm generally pretty gentle with most things.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

    Traxxas has a strict language policy. A word filter operates to change inappropriate words to *s. When you see these in your post, you MUST edit them out. -ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 07-07-2019 at 09:32 AM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nightflier x4.6 View Post
    Have you checked your mesh between the motor and spur gear?


    No idea how to look in there. Let me search a few YouTube videos to see if I can see how to get in and have a look.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

  6. #6
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    There should be a black oxide Allen head screw holding the cover on that covers the pinion and spur. Remove screw and pull up on the cover and then you see the pinion and spur.


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  7. #7
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Sounds like either your spur and pinion are messed up or you have a diff failing. Spur is the easiest to check.

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nightflier x4.6 View Post
    There should be a black oxide Allen head screw holding the cover on that covers the pinion and spur. Remove screw and pull up on the cover and then you see the pinion and spur.
    Yes, brilliant, thank you for that tip. Just found that the cover is only held on as you say with one screw which I've just removed and I think I have found the problem. With the vehicle raised so the wheels don't touch the ground if I try to manually rotate the spur gear it just slips against the pinion so the 2 aren't meshing together properly. Closer inspection of the spur gear shows that the teeth are showing a little bit of wear but look to be OK in general. Therefore do I just need to adjust the pinion and spur gears so they mesh together better?

    The truck is stock and only had some light running to date so I can only assume they weren't meshed brilliantly from the factory. I would have thought they would have been meshed tighter from factory?

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

  9. #9
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Do you have a picture of the spur? I'd be willing to bet money its toast. Luckily spur gears are cheap! You mentioned speed bumps, while it doesn't send the truck flying, if you hit them with some speed its actually quite a jarring impact. Enough so that it probably knocked your mesh outta place. Make sure to look up the proper way to set mesh, when done correctly it can last years. If done incorrectly your truck will eat gears for lunch. Remember, keep having fun!

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    Do you have a picture of the spur? I'd be willing to bet money its toast. Luckily spur gears are cheap! You mentioned speed bumps, while it doesn't send the truck flying, if you hit them with some speed its actually quite a jarring impact. Enough so that it probably knocked your mesh outta place. Make sure to look up the proper way to set mesh, when done correctly it can last years. If done incorrectly your truck will eat gears for lunch. Remember, keep having fun!

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    Yes. I think you are right I think the spur gear is toast. I've just tried to re-mesh it to the pinion but no matter how tight it seems to slip.

    So the next question is does the part # 6449X which is a steel spur gear designed for the X-MAXX fit on the e-revo 2.0? I note the original part # is 6449 for the stock plastic replacement.

    What is the consensus here with regards to replacing the spur gear. Stick with the stock plastic spur or upgrade to steel?

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

  11. #11
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delirious View Post
    Yes. I think you are right I think the spur gear is toast. I've just tried to re-mesh it to the pinion but no matter how tight it seems to slip.

    So the next question is does the part # 6449X which is a steel spur gear designed for the X-MAXX fit on the e-revo 2.0? I note the original part # is 6449 for the stock plastic replacement.

    What is the consensus here with regards to replacing the spur gear. Stick with the stock plastic spur or upgrade to steel?

    Cheers,
    Delirious.
    Yes that spur will work. The xmaxx, X0-1, and Erevo 2.0 all use the same family of mod1 spur gears. Honestly I would stick to plastic. It's a good 4$ fail safe from stopping a problem before it gets into your transmission or something worse. I stripped mine last April, had a hard landing that loosened up the motor mount and stripped it. I have been running a new plastic one since then. The 2.0 runs a center diff and a cush drive , there really is no need for a metal spur.

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  12. #12
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    Fully agree with everyone on this and with Nickruger. Stick with plastic spur gear as it will save you stress and frustration from possibly blowing a transmission gear due to it now being the next weakest point after your steel spur gear. Also you mentioned your truck was stock, does it have the black "spacer" with the preset gear mesh holes installed on the motor mount? These from what I understood from Traxxas were suppose to help set the perfect gear mesh. I run a different gearing combo from stock, so I can't use that spacer. I set the old school way with a piece of paper. Just curious if yours is in there?
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  13. #13
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    Thanks for the replies here guys. I will stick with the plastic spur gear. I’ll pick up a couple so I have some spares although my LHS is currently out of stock.

    I’ll check on the spacer next weekend when I next get a chance to dig around inside and start on the daunting task of replacing the spur gear and having it meshed correctly. This one is going to take me out of my comfort zone but good to be learning how to do it.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

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    Once you learn how to do it itíll just come natural from that point on out.


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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delirious View Post
    Thanks for the replies here guys. I will stick with the plastic spur gear. Iíll pick up a couple so I have some spares although my LHS is currently out of stock.

    Iíll check on the spacer next weekend when I next get a chance to dig around inside and start on the daunting task of replacing the spur gear and having it meshed correctly. This one is going to take me out of my comfort zone but good to be learning how to do it.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.
    I chuckled for you. When I first started in this hobby, I was a lost little lamb. I would take things apart and not remember how to put it back together! The exploded views are a great tool, after some time you won't need them anymore. Wrenching on these toy trucks gets fun, once you know what you're looking at. Good luck, and remember, this forum is always here for help!

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  16. #16
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    Progress update:

    After waiting for 10 days to get the near impossible to obtain $3 spur gear (Part #6449) I managed to fit it tonight. The fitting went well and all was relatively smooth. I took my time and when meshing with the pinion followed the folded piece of note paper rule. That worked perfect. Tightened up the motor screws removed the paper with the nice crinkles in it and then tried to roll the truck gently by hand backwards and forwards. Completely locked. Wheels would not turn. I disconnected the motor and tried rolling the truck again with the motor disconnected. All fine. Spur gear rotates nicely and when trying by hand there is a little bit of play before connecting with the transmission and turning the wheels.

    Time to pick up the phone and call Traxxas support and ask them if when the motor is set and the pinion and spur meshed properly should I be able to roll the truck by hand freely. Errr. Yes, came the answer back. "Seems you have a locked motor, sir. It is possible the motor will turn under power but it should move freely by hand too." It seems the motor is totally locked. With some pressure and force I can turn the motor by hand but there is a lot of resistance and it doesn't feel like it wants to turn naturally.

    Next step then is to take it back to my LHS tomorrow and get them to look at the motor and see if they will replace under warranty. I bought the truck on the 20th June. Tomorrow is the 20th July but the truck has been sat idle for 10 days waiting for a replacement spur gear. Had I known it was a locked motor I would have taken it back earlier within the 30 day warranty limit. Oh well let's see what they have to say. I only hope they have a replacement motor in stock as I really want this truck to run. It is so much fun but I only get 20 minutes before something goes wrong and I have to stop. Total run time to date is less than 2 hours.

    I'll update here again after a visit to my LHS and see if they can help me get this up and running again.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

  17. #17
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    Second progress update:

    So today I visited my LHS, RC Mart here in Hong Kong, and the guys, as they've always been were legends. I took the full truck along and explained what had happened. They whipped out the motor and said they would get me a new one but unfortunately they didn't have any in stock so I'd have to wait a week or two before they get the replacement motor for me. I then asked if they had any alternatives I could buy whilst I wait for the warranty replacement. They dug around and checked a few websites and then produced a brand new Hobbywing EZRUN 4268 motor which they then proceeded to fit properly for me.

    OK so I had to pay for the new motor but if I'd been willing to wait they would have totally taken care of the warranty issue for me and given me a replacement. As it is I will now have a spare motor once they get the new replacement in. The guys did a great job though and spent an hour or so wrenching on the truck even checking the spur gear I'd fitted last night and re-doing it just to be positive all was correct and lined up.

    So result I have the truck back up and running and the replacement parts will be with me in a week or two. Now let's hope for some dry weather tomorrow so I can get out and give it some run time and see how she holds up.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

  18. #18
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    I hope for your sake that 4268 is a typo and you meant 4274. That 4268 is only a 4s motor intended for buggies and short course trucks. I give it 2 minutes before it over heats, maybe less. Kind of suprised guys at a hobby shop didn't know that. Time for a new hobby shop.

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  19. #19
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    Nick is correct! Here are the specs on that motor:

    https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/prod...nt=37757345041
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  20. #20
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    Hmm. Interesting. Between posting my last post and reading this, after getting home from the LHS, I read the included manual with the 4268 and it does indeed state that it is only suitable for 2 - 4S LiPo batteries. This was concerning me and I'm glad I've seen the above posts from Nick and Rick. Interestingly, originally, they suggested the 4274 but then after they checked a few things, including taking the 4274 motor out of the box and measuring, they said it wouldn't fit. Hence they went with the 4268.

    So, I have a replacement stock motor on order and a 4268 currently plugged in to the truck. What do I do? Run it tomorrow and see what happens? Or, wait, LHS is closed on Sundays, and tell them next week that I don't think the motor is suitable and ask them to take it back and swap for a suitable motor. Remember I do need to run the truck tomorrow. It's been more than 2 weeks since I've last run it and I really want to have some fun. Oh, and if it helps, the ambient temp here in HK at the moment is 30c +. Not helping matters I presume?

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

  21. #21
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    If the hobby shop recommended, installed and said all is good (keep in mind, all is not good. Nick is spot on and that motor will last all of two minutes), I say run it and blow it up! Maybe having to eat the cost on that motor will make your lhs think twice before blindly recommending something with out doing the proper research.

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  22. #22
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delirious View Post
    Hmm. Interesting. Between posting my last post and reading this, after getting home from the LHS, I read the included manual with the 4268 and it does indeed state that it is only suitable for 2 - 4S LiPo batteries. This was concerning me and I'm glad I've seen the above posts from Nick and Rick. Interestingly, originally, they suggested the 4274 but then after they checked a few things, including taking the 4274 motor out of the box and measuring, they said it wouldn't fit. Hence they went with the 4268.

    So, I have a replacement stock motor on order and a 4268 currently plugged in to the truck. What do I do? Run it tomorrow and see what happens? Or, wait, LHS is closed on Sundays, and tell them next week that I don't think the motor is suitable and ask them to take it back and swap for a suitable motor. Remember I do need to run the truck tomorrow. It's been more than 2 weeks since I've last run it and I really want to have some fun. Oh, and if it helps, the ambient temp here in HK at the moment is 30c +. Not helping matters I presume?

    Cheers,
    Delirious.
    I can almost guarantee it won't work. I have alot of experience with motor size, kv, and what's suitable for what. They will likely return it if it is unused. I would simply resist the urge to run it, take it back in there with the specs on monday and trade it for the 4274. Please take my advice and don't run ANY motor smaller than 4074 and greater than 2200kv.

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  23. #23
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    If the hobby shop recommended, installed and said all is good (keep in mind, all is not good. Nick is spot on and that motor will last all of two minutes), I say run it and blow it up! Maybe having to eat the cost on that motor will make your lhs think twice before blindly recommending something with out doing the proper research.

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    I don't know what he paid for it, but yes that is an option. I know I would try that tactic, but I don't know how his shop is. I just can't believe how careless some shops can be. There is one by me that I've witnessed giving horrible recommendations and once I even had to pull a customer aside that I didn't even know and tell him they had no clue what they were talking about. If you want to keep your buisness alive, you should take the time to know the product your selling. If customers trust you, they'll come back. The shop I spoke of only gets my buisness in emergency situations now just for that reason.

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  24. #24
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    OK. Thanks, all. I'll head the advice and resist the overwhelming urge to run the truck. I'll take the motor out this evening and return it at some point in the week and ask them to swap it for the 4274.

    Question. Does anyone here or has anyone here ran the 4274 in the E-Revo 2.0? The shop said when they looked at the 4274 that it was too long and wouldn't fit. Before I go back to the shop and ask to swap I just want to make sure it will actually fit in the truck.

    Thanks again all for the help here.

    Chees,
    Delirious.

  25. #25
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delirious View Post
    OK. Thanks, all. I'll head the advice and resist the overwhelming urge to run the truck. I'll take the motor out this evening and return it at some point in the week and ask them to swap it for the 4274.

    Question. Does anyone here or has anyone here ran the 4274 in the E-Revo 2.0? The shop said when they looked at the 4274 that it was too long and wouldn't fit. Before I go back to the shop and ask to swap I just want to make sure it will actually fit in the truck.

    Thanks again all for the help here.

    Chees,
    Delirious.
    That's kind of silly. The 4274 is actually 1.5mm shorter than the stock motor. The shaft is about 2mm shorter than the stock traxxas motor, so you might have to flip your pinion around but that's about it. It's a direct drop in. Hobbywing markets that motor and their max8 ESC as an upgrade for the Traxxas Erevo 2.0. Thats why it blows my mind that those knuckleheads didn't know that.

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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    That's kind of silly. The 4274 is actually 1.5mm shorter than the stock motor. The shaft is about 2mm shorter than the stock traxxas motor, so you might have to flip your pinion around but that's about it. It's a direct drop in. Hobbywing markets that motor and their max8 ESC as an upgrade for the Traxxas Erevo 2.0. Thats why it blows my mind that those knuckleheads didn't know that.

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    Perfect. 4274 it is then. That'll be this weeks project. Only thing is I take the family on holiday for two weeks from Thursday evening onwards. I'll have the truck ready to rock and roll and then I'll have to shelve it for two weeks until I get back from holiday. At which point my replacement stock motor under warranty should be here

    To be fair to the guys in the shop, and whilst they did give me the wrong motor, I did pressure them saying I absolutely have to have the truck running this weekend and they did what they could. Albeit an inadequate motor. Nevermind. It's all a learning curve.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delirious View Post
    Perfect. 4274 it is then. That'll be this weeks project. Only thing is I take the family on holiday for two weeks from Thursday evening onwards. I'll have the truck ready to rock and roll and then I'll have to shelve it for two weeks until I get back from holiday. At which point my replacement stock motor under warranty should be here

    To be fair to the guys in the shop, and whilst they did give me the wrong motor, I did pressure them saying I absolutely have to have the truck running this weekend and they did what they could. Albeit an inadequate motor. Nevermind. It's all a learning curve.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.
    Can confirm it's a straight fit. I run the hobbywing max8 combo with this motor, runs great. I put a fan on it because I have a somewhat aggressive pinion / spur combo, but no issues so far. Only thing is, as suggested above, that i had to flip the pinion. Mesh is great though.
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  28. #28
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    Quick update:

    Returned the 4268 motor to the LHS today and told them I had not run the truck since the motor was not right. They apologised and said they’d happily swap it out for the 4274 which they have in stock at the warehouse but not in the store. Will have it in tomorrow for me so I can pickup on the way home from work. They were pleased I hadn’t run the truck.

    Just a slight correction on my earlier posts. The original motor they looked at putting in my truck was not a 4274, as they didn’t have stock in the store, but was a 4985. This was the motor that they said would not fit in the truck and that makes more sense as it does visibly look too big.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

  29. #29
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    Guys, All done. Picked up the new EZRUN 4274 motor today from the LHS and this evening I slotted that in. Tested the motor and the gear mesh and all appears to be running fine. All sounding smooth and the motor spins up to high rpm's with no issues.

    My only slight concern is that the pinion and spur don't line up perfectly. I couldn't quite line the pinion on to the spur and there is a slight over hang of about 1.5 - 2mm. If I put the pinion on the motor shaft the other way round the shaft is long enough to tighten the grub screw up properly. If I put the pinion on the correct way round I need to slide the pinion down the motor shaft so far that the grub screw will hit the motor mounting plate so I have to slide the pinion out just enough so the grub screw doesn't hit the motor mounting plates but then this means the pinion and spur are slightly off centre.

    I would upload a photo here but I'm struggling to link to Google Photos. I can't seem to get it to work and it's getting late.

    Other than this small issue I think I'm OK and the truck is back up and running again. I know the alignment is not ideal but I think it is good enough for me.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

  30. #30
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delirious View Post
    Guys, All done. Picked up the new EZRUN 4274 motor today from the LHS and this evening I slotted that in. Tested the motor and the gear mesh and all appears to be running fine. All sounding smooth and the motor spins up to high rpm's with no issues.

    My only slight concern is that the pinion and spur don't line up perfectly. I couldn't quite line the pinion on to the spur and there is a slight over hang of about 1.5 - 2mm. If I put the pinion on the motor shaft the other way round the shaft is long enough to tighten the grub screw up properly. If I put the pinion on the correct way round I need to slide the pinion down the motor shaft so far that the grub screw will hit the motor mounting plate so I have to slide the pinion out just enough so the grub screw doesn't hit the motor mounting plates but then this means the pinion and spur are slightly off centre.

    I would upload a photo here but I'm struggling to link to Google Photos. I can't seem to get it to work and it's getting late.

    Other than this small issue I think I'm OK and the truck is back up and running again. I know the alignment is not ideal but I think it is good enough for me.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.
    I had the same issue with alignment as you did. Traxxas must make their shaft just a little bit longer than everybody else. It was the same with my castle 2200kv, my arrma 2050kv and my hobbystar 1550kv. Just make sure it's as close to lined up as you can get it. I'm on my same plastic spur for over a year now with that issue. Makes perfect sense about the 4285 being to big. Makes me feel better about your shop. You need to dremel the shock mount down to squeeze that size motor in. I think the absolute max that will fit is a 4282, and you still might need to sand a little bit off. I really wish that 4285 fit, sure would help with heat issues.

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    Last edited by nickruger; 07-23-2019 at 11:46 AM.

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    So. Almost there. So close now. Took the truck out for a test drive and the pinion gear keeps coming loose. The grub screw can't hold it tight enough against the shaft of the motor. I've tightened it down as tight as I can do it without snapping the tool and I've also supplied a little dab of locking glue to the grub screw. The truck will run for a bit under a light load and then sure enough the pinion will work loose allowing the motor shaft to spin freely without turning the pinion. If I back off the grub screw and reset the pinion and re-tighten the grub it will hold on under light loads for a short while before working itself loose again.

    The second time this happened I just tried to tighten the grub screw further without backing it off first and it's as tight as it will go. It won't go any further and yet the pinion will freely rotate around the motor shaft without locking on to it or slide backwards and forwards along the motor shaft. Back the grub screw off a touch and then re-align and tighten it up again and it will latch on only to be worked loose again under light loading. What can be happening here? Do I need a longer grub screw per chance? Where would you get one from?

    Anyway, off on holiday for two weeks now so will shelve the truck for the moment and ponder on how to resolve and perhaps review any fine ideas that you good folk on here have.

    Perhaps when I get back I will remove the pinion completely and remove the grub screw and give everything a thorough clean and check there is nothing fouling the threads on the grub screw stopping it tightening down an extra turn.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

  32. #32
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    I'm new to all this but I know some motors come with different size drive shafts in MM. Check online and see if the motors shaft size is the same as the pinion. Also get yourself some medium locktite.

  33. #33
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delirious View Post
    So. Almost there. So close now. Took the truck out for a test drive and the pinion gear keeps coming loose. The grub screw can't hold it tight enough against the shaft of the motor. I've tightened it down as tight as I can do it without snapping the tool and I've also supplied a little dab of locking glue to the grub screw. The truck will run for a bit under a light load and then sure enough the pinion will work loose allowing the motor shaft to spin freely without turning the pinion. If I back off the grub screw and reset the pinion and re-tighten the grub it will hold on under light loads for a short while before working itself loose again.

    The second time this happened I just tried to tighten the grub screw further without backing it off first and it's as tight as it will go. It won't go any further and yet the pinion will freely rotate around the motor shaft without locking on to it or slide backwards and forwards along the motor shaft. Back the grub screw off a touch and then re-align and tighten it up again and it will latch on only to be worked loose again under light loading. What can be happening here? Do I need a longer grub screw per chance? Where would you get one from?

    Anyway, off on holiday for two weeks now so will shelve the truck for the moment and ponder on how to resolve and perhaps review any fine ideas that you good folk on here have.

    Perhaps when I get back I will remove the pinion completely and remove the grub screw and give everything a thorough clean and check there is nothing fouling the threads on the grub screw stopping it tightening down an extra turn.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.
    What brand pinion are you using?

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  34. #34
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    I know you're on holiday, but I just remembered this because I'm taking my motor out. I did put washers behind the motor plate to help with alignment. It has worked for so long that I forgot I had done it. Before I did run it just lined up as best I could. I believe I put the washers in there sometime last summer.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  35. #35
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    Hi guys. Just picked up my e Revo last weekend and on the second run, I was just running it across a field and it just stopped moving.

    Went and looked at it and it was making the same noises as the OPs video and smelled a little like burning.

    Took it to the hobby shop today and they confirmed the motor seized up and caused the spur gear to strip. Thankfully under warranty for the motor and the gear, but I do worry about what other damage this may have caused a two day old vehicle.

    Wanted to share as itís literally the same issue as OP.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cfranscid View Post
    Hi guys. Just picked up my e Revo last weekend and on the second run, I was just running it across a field and it just stopped moving.

    Went and looked at it and it was making the same noises as the OPs video and smelled a little like burning.

    Took it to the hobby shop today and they confirmed the motor seized up and caused the spur gear to strip. Thankfully under warranty for the motor and the gear, but I do worry about what other damage this may have caused a two day old vehicle.

    Wanted to share as it’s literally the same issue as OP.
    Thanks for sharing and good to know I’m not the only one with the issue with a brand new e-Revo. It took me a bit longer to recognise it was a motor issue as I originally thought I’d just stripped the spur gear somehow. It was only when fitting the spur and trying to align with the pinion properly I realised that the motor wouldn’t turn freely. Mine didn’t give off any burning smell so not sure it overheated but something went wrong with it.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    What brand pinion are you using?

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    I’m using the stock Traxxas pinion and spur.

    Interesting comments re putting the washers behind the motor plate. Did this not just make the motor plate protrude further from the motor therefore reducing the amount of shaft you have access to on the motor? I’m not sure I understand because if anything I need a slightly longer shaft. It’s interesting to see though as from the pictures you posted it is lined up perfectly with the spur. Whereas with mine I can’t quite get the pinion close enough on the motor shaft to line up perfectly. If I place it any closer the little grub screw will hit the mounting plate as it rotates round with the motor shaft.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delirious View Post
    I’m using the stock Traxxas pinion and spur.

    Interesting comments re putting the washers behind the motor plate. Did this not just make the motor plate protrude further from the motor therefore reducing the amount of shaft you have access to on the motor? I’m not sure I understand because if anything I need a slightly longer shaft. It’s interesting to see though as from the pictures you posted it is lined up perfectly with the spur. Whereas with mine I can’t quite get the pinion close enough on the motor shaft to line up perfectly. If I place it any closer the little grub screw will hit the mounting plate as it rotates round with the motor shaft.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

    Doh! Just seen exactly where you put the washers. Might try that as it should leave me enough space to then line the pinion and spur up properly. Now just need to figure out why the pinion keeps coming loose and the grub screw, whilst it is as tight as I can make it, doesn’t seem to be locking on to the motor shaft strong enough to stop the pinion coming loose under load.

    Will definitely try that washer trick when I get back from holiday.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.

  39. #39
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delirious View Post
    Doh! Just seen exactly where you put the washers. Might try that as it should leave me enough space to then line the pinion and spur up properly. Now just need to figure out why the pinion keeps coming loose and the grub screw, whilst it is as tight as I can make it, doesnít seem to be locking on to the motor shaft strong enough to stop the pinion coming loose under load.

    Will definitely try that washer trick when I get back from holiday.

    Cheers,
    Delirious.
    You can try picking up a tekno pinion. They use m5 grub screws with a 2.5mm head so you can really crank them down tight without fear of stripping the screw or breaking your driver. You can also try a knurled grub screw. They hold on a little tighter than the standard flat faced ones.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  40. #40
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Are you sure your mounting the pinion so the grub screw is on the flat spot on the motor shaft?
    Expert rigging at it's best!

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