anyone running LIPO power in the Teton

[grave75]

hi anyone running 2S LIPO in there Teton my 12 year old step son already went though 2 stock Teton motors in 3 days & 2 trips to the hobby shop. Not worried about cost of motor since there only 10.00 bucks a piece. The Hobby Shop r/c tech suggested gearing up the truck so the motor don't run as hot on LIPO power but said I should ask on the Teton thread for advice because he's not that experienced in the Teton motor or gearing setups.

[Lowe1982]

I just put a 2s 7.4 volt venom lipo in mine. Fits flat and adds quite a bit of power. I didn’t upgrade anything else and haven’t had any issues yet, but I plan on upgrading some parts as I imagine they’ll start breaking soon.

[lsear2905]

I run a 1300Mah 2S in mine - I've had no more problems because of it. Just keep an eye on your temps...

[Dakratfink]

Like Isear said, watching your temp is key.

[smeezy]

Ya watch temps.

To answer your question about gearing. You could put a smaller pinion in there to help it not get as hot.

[Morg]

Ya watch temps.

To answer your question about gearing. You could put a smaller pinion in there to help it not get as hot.

I've cooked a few motors in my Tenton now running 2s with the stock motor.

Would changing the gearing mess with the temp of the ESC?
The motor is cheaper than an ESC.

I also have a heat sink on the motor, but it will still roast them.
Maybe a fan set up of some sort?

[boosta]

Hi mate, if you can hold off a day or two I’ll try dig up some pics of an old Teton build and post a thread.

The most important thing I found was that the driveline was binding. It took a while to find, but it is caused by the diff casings binding to either the center shaft or diff input pinion (can’t remember exactly which one now). All three Tetons I have had the same issue.

The fix was to assemble the F/R plastic diff housings and run a drill bit down the input shaft entry. From memory it was a 6 or 6.5mm bit.

Very easy to do and the driveline just will not work properly without doing it. I don’t know if it’s been fixed in more recent moldings.

But that issue will lead to overheated motors etc definitely.

I have a few links to lipos / motors etc that I liked too and will post later, just on phone now.

Also you will eventually need metal driveshafts. I’ve had good luck with the hot racing and GPM. Probably prefer the GPM, cheaper and don’t rely on a fine o-ring to retain the cover that holds the CV pin in.

[Morg]

Hi mate, if you can hold off a day or two I’ll try dig up some pics of an old Teton build and post a thread.

The most important thing I found was that the driveline was binding. It took a while to find, but it is caused by the diff casings binding to either the center shaft or diff input pinion (can’t remember exactly which one now). All three Tetons I have had the same issue.

The fix was to assemble the F/R plastic diff housings and run a drill bit down the input shaft entry. From memory it was a 6 or 6.5mm bit.

Very easy to do and the driveline just will not work properly without doing it. I don’t know if it’s been fixed in more recent moldings.

But that issue will lead to overheated motors etc definitely.

I have a few links to lipos / motors etc that I liked too and will post later, just on phone now.

Also you will eventually need metal driveshafts. I’ve had good luck with the hot racing and GPM. Probably prefer the GPM, cheaper and don’t rely on a fine o-ring to retain the cover that holds the CV pin in.

Awesome! Thanks for the thorough response!
I'm in no hurry so take your time.

How did you find out the drive train was binding? I didn't know that was even a thing.

I'd love to be able to keep running my stock motor for a while.
I don't need a speed demon yet :-P

[boosta]

Yeah the stock motor goes quite well. A good upgrade is the 2S lipo as you were asking.

This is the lipo I’m using. Nice little hardcase...

https://*********.com/en_us/1600-2s-...___store=en_us


I found the binding when doing a ground up rebuild. It’s always a good idea when rebuilding or maintaining to check for free movement at every stage completed, whether it’s driveline, steering, suspension etc.

I was checking after installing only the front and rear diffs to the chassis with the center shaft between them. Nothing I did would stop the binding, I checked every screw to make sure I wasn’t overtightening etc. eventually I found the fault inside the diff cases.

[boosta]

Oh, I see the forum won’t allow a link to that site. Didn’t realise that was off limits.

It’s a ******* 1600mAh 2S hardcase. Hope that’s ok to say.

[boosta]

Ok. I see the forum has issues with that vendor. I’ll keep that in mind moving forward.

[Morg]

Was it actually keeping things from moving?
Like locked up?

[boosta]

No, just causing friction. I’m just looking through the pics now trying to find them. Seems there’s a mix of pics and short vids so it might be best to edit them into a video to make it all concise. That will take a bit longer.

In any case I’ll post the relevant pics so you can see ASAP...

[boosta]

Hi mate, I found a few pics but I’m sure there’s more there somewhere, just can’t find them at the moment. Probably is some bulk phone download folder.

This is where the problem lies. My memory is a bit vague as this was a while ago, but from memory it was in both the front and rear.

There are two causes...

The first is where the diff case comes in around the shank of the diff pinion, it binds and creates friction.



The diameter of the diff pinion there is just over 6mm and the hole in the diff case is just under.



The solution is to screw the case halves together to hold them firm...



And drill out the hole to 6.5mm...



Then deburr...




The second part of the problem is due to incorrect spacing between the back flat of the diff pinion and the diff case. When power is applied the pinion is pushed backwards. There’s nothing spacing it and stopping it being pushed back and rubbing on the case. The shim is indicating where the problem is...



I used a washer as a shim to space the pinion from the shaft bearing (I can’t remember what size the washer is sorry! But it’s easy once you’re in there to work out what size you need.)





Hope that helps!

[boosta]

To give the diffs some limited slip this is the best grease I was able to find from hpi...



These are the GPM driveshafts...



They need some shims to be spaced correctly...

[boosta]

Regarding the electronics, I don’t want to fall foul of the forum policies regarding posting about companies that are in their bad books, so until I know more I’ll just post a couple of pics of the finished result.



1/10 foamies...

[boosta]

I should have said earlier that if you can pull your motor pinion away from the spur and your whole drivetrain spins freely then you don’t have a problem and no need to dig down into the diffs.

My Tetons are a few years old and the diff pinion or cases may have been fixed in that time. Your mileage may vary.

If yours does have a binding problem like mine did though, I hope that helps.

Enjoy! They’re a super fun little car hey