So I am just recently getting back into RC. I was into Nitro back in 2004-06. Had a heavily customized T-Maxx... LOVED IT... but life got busy, kids, etc... Anyway, I'm back and apparently it's the golden age of electric!!! So I got 2 Mini Revo VXLs to run with my daughter... and I LOVE them... but I wanted to step up to something beefier, so I grabbed a Revo 2.0 yesterday and can't WAIT to get it going.
So, I already ordered the metal rear chassis brace and limiting straps because that seems like a pretty common issue.... Any other "must have right off the bat" upgrades? I'm a moderate basher... I'll do some jumps, but never the crazy stuff you see guys doing like jumping off a half pipe at 50MPH and getting like 40 feet up in the air.
Your input and experience is appreciated.
Now a few pics of the big dawg and the puppies... nothing fancy... yet!
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You're doomed!
I had the Tamiya Hornets, Bruisers and Tamtechs back in the '80's then got out of the hobby. I just got back two weeks ago and have gone a bit nuts. Like you I started with the 1/16th and E-Revo 2.0. I won't go into it now, but let's just say it didn't end there!
Good luck!
First off.. MY LORD this thing is fast!!! Running 6s with stock gearing... Was running in wet grass and the thing was pulling wheelies when I floored it from like 35mph.... Wow.
Ok, so a weird thing happened: It suddenly stopped going, and mad a weird noise.. took of the body and saw the while wire has become disconnected from the ESC... OK, seems to be an obvious issue... I plugged it back in and it ran fine... now here's the weird part:
When I finished running it and was ready to clean her up, I pressed the power button on the ESC for a second to turn it off... and it turned off, but then immediately came back on, doing it's normal start up process...
Again and again, I tried to turn it off, but it just restarted...
Eventually, I just unplugged the batteries and went on my merry way...
Any ideas?
My wife’s takes a strangely timed push to turn hers off but technically you’re supposed to unplug the esc to turn off the truck as the esc will pull power even when off and will pull the lipo battery’s lower than their cutoff point, you may also need to update the truck using the tq link.
Good luck with the manual. Wait! WHAT manual? LOL There isn't much info in those brochures they give but hey! At least they aren't in Ingrish!
FWIW, I haven't run anything in the 2.0 other than 2 cell 7600mah LiPos. I'd rather have the run time and frankly, I can't keep it wheels down as it is!
I kinda wonder how I'm gonna do with the X-Maxx I picked up last night...![]()
Oh, and a weird battery question...
What is the difference between the 2832X and the 2872X?
SAME specs, SAME price... both have their own pages on the site... so weird:
2832X: https://traxxas.com/products/parts/b...ah-111v-3S-25C
2872X: https://traxxas.com/products/parts/b...ah-111v-3S-25C
EDIT: Now I am seeing that the size and weight is SLIGHTLY different... but WHY!?!??!
The manual says you should use the 2872X, but my local shop only had the 2832X... they seem to work fine...![]()
After some research, it looks like a firmware update might fix it... anyway to do that without buying the bluetooth module?
In most our cases the firmware updates don't fix this issue. It safest just to unplug the batteries to power down vs risk taking the esc into programming mode. Even states right on the ESC plug red tag this which is contrary to what the manual states.
And don't get me started on how many of us have had issues right out of the box. Many other threads topics on this. As for the statement about the manual, in the box is just a quick start brochure...online you can download the entire manual which has a ton of info. And no other way to update firmware except using the bluetooth module that Im aware of. Lastly when you updste firmware...if you get an option for update VXL-8...do not do this...wrong update for our trucks and have heard it can lock up your ESC. Just work through the lil quarks and you will be up and running having a blast!
I had the same problem with the truck refusing to turn off. Like one of those ever lasting birthday candles. Just as you thought it was off it would spring to life again. Some how I perfect the exact amount of time to press and hold the on/off button for and got it to work more often than not. Then recently I got he TQi bluetooth adapter and did the firmware update (be careful here, cross everything you have, close your eyes and pray to all the gods in the world) and this seemed to stop this behaviour completely and now I can power on and off with no issues at all.
Cheers,
Delirious.
Thanks guys! I guess I'll get the bluetooth module!
When you get it and activate make sure your phone battery, transmitter battery and truck batteries are all full as it will take 30 minutes + to fully run and update everything. Who knows what would happen if either your phone, transmitter or truck powered off at anytime throughout the update.
Cheers,
Delirious.
Have you tried it since unplugging the batteries? If so does it still do it?
This is not normal!There is a reason for an on / off button. I would use Traxxas Chat or call them if it continues.
And yes you should unplug your batteries when you are done with running the truck......
Yeah, I've tried it a lot of times. Heard back form them... they suggested re-calibrating the ESC. Not sure how that's gonna do anything.
They said I could just unplug the batteries... uh huh...OK. Defective ESC but just unplug the batteries. Then they said I could MAIL THEM the motor and ESC... LOL... OK... that's great. *eye roll*
I'ma try the firmware update and see how that does.
One more question for y'all!
When I am connecting my batteries and I connect the 2nd one (doesn't matter which is connected first) I hear a slight electrical pop.
Is that normal? I assume it's just an arc at the last second because it's connecting in series with the other battery. Everything else runs as expected.
Another question:
How does the telemetry work on the 2.0 without the extra sensors? Specifically, speed. It doesn't have GPS built in (as far as I know) but it will show speed if you have the Traxxas link thing in your transmitter.
Thanks!
Speed is based on motor RPMs that is read off the motor and what gears you have input into the application along with tire size. So if you are running anything other then Traxxas wheels and tires, it will not be accurate. If you have Traxxas wheels and tires and select the correct gearing for your truck...its pretty close. You can always buy the aftermarket GPS for more accurate readings if not running Traxxas wheel and tires. Also all sensors are built in EXCEPT for the motor temp sensor which you will wanna ad on.
Save your body by making/installing your own body savers:
Catch my videos at youtube.com/c/offworkhours
Dear Traxxas,
Your instructions are bad and you should feel bad.
Love,
Zoidberg.
But seriously, I am trying to understand the battery retainers and springs that ship uninstalled.
The manual states the battery should be up against the FRONT of the battery compartment, on that piece of foam rubber... so how does installing the retaining clip at the inside front help accomplish that? Seems like it should be at the back to prevent the battery from moving around, right?
Also, the pics they show in the manual for installing the spring? Useless... it's doesn't explain what the spring is for or show the small areas of the chassis in context of where it even is.
Can someone please explain and/or post a pic of these things installed.
Thanks!
I don't have means of posting pics at the moment but ill try to explain it to you as best I can. The retainer spring clips that go into the top of the battery compartment have lil flat spots that slide into the top of the battery compartment. They will go in in such a way that the retainer will be springy and will place downward pressure on the battery. They literally just slide into those small grooves/slots. On the passenger side the first slot is just under the receiver box and the second is visible just in front of the receiver box. On the drivers side, they should be visible just in front and behind the ESC. As for the battery holder...it will be that small "L" bracket and a screw. If you look inside the battery compartment towards the rear, you will see like a recessed and ridged area where these will sit in and sit flush to the battery compartment. You should also see the screw holes where the screw would go..a few holes as it gives you options based on battery size. Select the spot that hold the battery firm to the front foam and screw in the "L" bracket using the screw. Then you should be set...sorry I cant post pics..at the moment.
Yes, they are bad and they SHOULD feel bad!
I never installed the little blocks. The springs that look like the letter "K" go lengthwise into the upper side of the battery compartment with the flatest side toward the outside.,,if I remember correctly. Anyway, there are two rectangular holes in the top that two of the arms go into then the rest goes up and clicks in place. It's tough for large hands to do but not impossible. i don't have the car with me right now and I have to run. When I get back, if you haven't gotten it, I'll take pictures of it installed.
So I installed the battery retention tabs in the REAR of the battery compartment, because it just didn't make sense to me to have it in the front... the point is to hold the battery firmly in place against the foam in the front, so how is having the tab in the front supposed to do that? Now the batteries are firmly wedged between the tab and the foam... held firmly in place. There's one screw hole in the rear, so maybe they designed it that way? There's 3 in the front.
Also, tried the springs... and not needed... they actually made it so tight that it bulged the battery compartment.
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UPDATE: Updating the firmware FIXED the issue with the ESC rebooting when trying to power it down!
YAY!
Awesome, ordered the wireless bluetooth link last night off ebay.
You will also get pack voltage, or you can set up voltage output reading at the receiver, amperage draw, and I would highly suggest adding the motor temp sensor. That is about the only thing that is NOT built into the truck already and pretty darn important one IMO.
Definitely add the motor temp sensor. It’s really nice being able to see that in the app and it works really well. Just keep in mind that to add it you need to buy two parts, the sensor itself, and the sensor mount.