Looking for different ideas to cooling the esc as an add-on to the stock on the vxl 6s marine, any pic's or mods would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Thank you, I'm really considering putting in a VXL 8S and the 1200kv from the Xmaxx and run it on 6s and monitor temps just to see how it performs.
Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-11-2019 at 05:49 AM.
The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.
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Having this, along with a water cooled Castle CC Cap pack, and shortening my wires (total length between ESC and batter) to less than 5 inches reduced my temps from the high 180's to the very low 120's. Also, I got 8 good years out of my stock ESC.
Here's a picture of how to make a mount for a CC Cap Pack. It fits over the receiver box.
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Here's what the complete setup looks like.
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I put numbers by the pictures for easy reference just incase there happens to be any questions that come up. Good luck.
P.S. This is for you, Rain Dawg...USMC and JOB. You should have three words now.
Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-11-2019 at 05:53 AM.
The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.
Awesome job and thanks, very much appreciated. I have the brass from another project except the brass tubing for the caps, so I scooped a couple of empty .45 ACP casings out of the reload bin and cut them down and they are going to work perfectly.
My casing holder for cutting with the dremel.
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I think the water tube size I used was 3/16 and the square tube was 7/32. The brass going around the caps has to fit snug for it to pull the heat away from the ESC caps properly. If sloppy it won't work. If to small it won't fit. What I did was I took my ESC down to the (LHS) and went though their different tubes until I found a brass tube with the snuggest fit. Then I took my brass tube to an electronics store and got caps that fit my brass tube.
P.S. stopped #5
The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.
So here's my version of the esc cap cooler, I added a 3rd tube because there was room. It doesn't look as clean as ReglarGuy's but it does function and hopefully it will work. The .45 ACP casings I cut to use actually fit really snug.
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You did a really nice job. Hopefully, it will work for you. If not, just make your heatsink a bit longer. You want as much metal as you can (that will fit in your boat). The metal is what pulls the heat from your ESC, and the water is what cools your metal so that it can keep pulling the heat. Also, Toluene works really good for cleaning off the flux from your finished work.
P.S. by #6
Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-12-2019 at 03:58 AM.
The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.
(Toluene) I had to google that word lol I'll look into some of this tomorrow and thanks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQVX...ature=youtu.be
If you close your eyes it sounds like a little kid taking a leak. (lol)
The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.
Ya, my mom had one of those too. (lol)
P.S. order #9
The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.
When you used the larger diameter water tubing (3/16) did you have to widen the holes in the hull or did it fit ok without having to do that and when I add the second water line should I do it the same size as the Traxxas one or the new 3/16 line.
I used the Traxxas stock water tubing. I like it better, because it's the most pliable. It also doesn't kink. Because, I use the factory tubing, I cut my second hole the same size as the factory hole.
Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-14-2019 at 01:59 PM.
The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.
Excellent thank you, that's what I was hoping to hear.
I just ordered my dual intake rudder from OSE which should be a huge benifit along with the esc cooler to lowering temps.