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Thread: ESC coolers

  1. #1
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    ESC coolers

    Looking for different ideas to cooling the esc as an add-on to the stock on the vxl 6s marine, any pic's or mods would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    Looking for different ideas to cooling the esc as an add-on to the stock on the vxl 6s marine, any pic's or mods would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance.
    Wait for RegularGuy to respond. He has had pics on this site somewhere of cooling for the ESC.

  3. #3
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    Thank you, I'm really considering putting in a VXL 8S and the 1200kv from the Xmaxx and run it on 6s and monitor temps just to see how it performs.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    Thank you, I'm really considering putting in a VXL 8S and the 1200kv from the Xmaxx and run it on 6s and monitor temps just to see how it performs.
    Don't do that. Those components are for land based RC vehicles, you'll burn them up using them on marine based RC vehicles.
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  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    You asked for it America, and now it's back by popular demand.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    Looking for different ideas to cooling the esc as an add-on to the stock on the vxl 6s marine, any pic's or mods would be greatly appreciated.
    I'll post these, and you can ask whatever questions you have. Here's the tools and stock you need.

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    Fabrication

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    Soldering

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    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-11-2019 at 05:49 AM.
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  6. #6
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    Soldering Continued

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    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-11-2019 at 05:47 AM.
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  7. #7
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    Soldering Continued

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    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-11-2019 at 05:29 AM.
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  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Walla! You now have a water cooled heat sink.

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    Having this, along with a water cooled Castle CC Cap pack, and shortening my wires (total length between ESC and batter) to less than 5 inches reduced my temps from the high 180's to the very low 120's. Also, I got 8 good years out of my stock ESC.

    Here's a picture of how to make a mount for a CC Cap Pack. It fits over the receiver box.

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    Here's what the complete setup looks like.

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    I put numbers by the pictures for easy reference just incase there happens to be any questions that come up. Good luck.

    P.S. This is for you, Rain Dawg...USMC and JOB. You should have three words now.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-11-2019 at 05:53 AM.
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  9. #9
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    Awesome job and thanks, very much appreciated. I have the brass from another project except the brass tubing for the caps, so I scooped a couple of empty .45 ACP casings out of the reload bin and cut them down and they are going to work perfectly.
    My casing holder for cutting with the dremel.



  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I think the water tube size I used was 3/16 and the square tube was 7/32. The brass going around the caps has to fit snug for it to pull the heat away from the ESC caps properly. If sloppy it won't work. If to small it won't fit. What I did was I took my ESC down to the (LHS) and went though their different tubes until I found a brass tube with the snuggest fit. Then I took my brass tube to an electronics store and got caps that fit my brass tube.

    P.S. stopped #5
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    I think the water tube size I used was 3/16 and the square tube was 7/32. The brass going around the caps has to fit snug for it to pull the heat away from the ESC caps properly. If sloppy it won't work. If to small it won't fit. What I did was I took my ESC down to the (LHS) and went though their different tubes until I found a brass tube with the snuggest fit. Then I took my brass tube to an electronics store and got caps that fit my brass tube.

    P.S. stopped #5
    I will definitely do what you suggest the next time I run into town, I was trying to utilize what I had on hand. Being out in the country and a 40 min. drive each way with fuel prices the way they are this at least gives me an idea what to pick up on my next venture.

  12. #12
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    So here's my version of the esc cap cooler, I added a 3rd tube because there was room. It doesn't look as clean as ReglarGuy's but it does function and hopefully it will work. The .45 ACP casings I cut to use actually fit really snug.



  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    So here's my version of the esc cap cooler, I added a 3rd tube because there was room. It doesn't look as clean as ReglarGuy's but it does function and hopefully it will work. The .45 ACP casings I cut to use actually fit really snug.
    You did a really nice job. Hopefully, it will work for you. If not, just make your heatsink a bit longer. You want as much metal as you can (that will fit in your boat). The metal is what pulls the heat from your ESC, and the water is what cools your metal so that it can keep pulling the heat. Also, Toluene works really good for cleaning off the flux from your finished work.

    P.S. by #6
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-12-2019 at 03:58 AM.
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  14. #14
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    (Toluene) I had to google that word lol I'll look into some of this tomorrow and thanks.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQVX...ature=youtu.be

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    If you close your eyes it sounds like a little kid taking a leak. (lol)
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    If you close your eyes it sounds like a little kid taking a leak. (lol)
    Haha it brought back memories when I heard it of my mother having that little boy garden statue that did that.

  17. #17
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    Ya, my mom had one of those too. (lol)

    P.S. order #9
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  18. #18
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    When you used the larger diameter water tubing (3/16) did you have to widen the holes in the hull or did it fit ok without having to do that and when I add the second water line should I do it the same size as the Traxxas one or the new 3/16 line.

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I used the Traxxas stock water tubing. I like it better, because it's the most pliable. It also doesn't kink. Because, I use the factory tubing, I cut my second hole the same size as the factory hole.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-14-2019 at 01:59 PM.
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  20. #20
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    Excellent thank you, that's what I was hoping to hear.

  21. #21
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    I just ordered my dual intake rudder from OSE which should be a huge benifit along with the esc cooler to lowering temps.

  22. #22
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    HI Guys.
    I have a question. When you make the cap cylinders ( the fits over the caps) i just want to check that the metal can sit against the cap on the sides and also touch the top flt sections of the caps? Correct? and thats what holds the hold liquid cooled part in place? Any need to glue it onto the side walls of the Caps?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Degald View Post
    HI Guys.
    I have a question. When you make the cap cylinders ( the fits over the caps) i just want to check that the metal can sit against the cap on the sides and also touch the top flt sections of the caps? Correct? and thats what holds the hold liquid cooled part in place? Any need to glue it onto the side walls of the Caps?
    Yes, the brass tubing that fits over the caps is pretty snug with the brass plate touching the top of the caps and doesn't need anything to hold it in place. There is no movement with mine while running.

  24. #24
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    I have a question...why does one have to build in the square tube and then round ends soldered in? Cant one just solder round one from the start?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Degald View Post
    I have a question...why does one have to build in the square tube and then round ends soldered in? Cant one just solder round one from the start?
    Yes that would be the most effeicent way lol. After I had soldered the round one in the middle I realised it would have been easier to just solder the round ones into place. Good catch, and yes if your building one do it that way.
    Just make sure that they are spaced enough that you can get the tubing over them. With the square tubes, my round tube inside was able to be on a bit of an angle to not interfere with sliding the tubing on.
    It's working flawless and the temps are way down.

  26. #26
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    I found at my local hobby shop single port water scoops...so will be installing that.
    Can I ask something about the ESC...I have the stock motor and run 2 x 3s Gen Ace 5300mag 45C Batts. Im thinking of buying a Hobbywing 180a speaking ESC... Would this automatically reduce ESC temps, considering the other part stay stock?

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    The reason for using a square tube rather than a round tube is for more surface-to-surface contact of the components that hold the cool water (square tube) and the components that transfer the heat (cooling plate and cap tubes) from the caps. The round tubes coming out of the square tubes is necessary in order to have a water tight fit with the silicon cooling tubes coming from your duel port rudder.

    If you use strictly a round tube (as your cooling tubes), it will work, but the heat sink won't cool your caps nearly as well. There's just not as much surface-to-surface area of a round tube as a flat sided square tube. Remember, the more metal you can have coming in contact with the water, the more cooling you will have.

    Here's an experiment: take a hot piece of steel and set it on a single drop of water. Then take a hot piece of steel and submerge it completely in a pot of water. Which cools the steel faster? A round tube vs a square tube is the same concept.
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  28. #28
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    So i made my coolers...
    And they just just NOT for over the Caps. If I remove the heatcovers over them, then my coolers will fit and sit snug onto the metal of the cap.

    Is this advisable? If not then I have to Reem them to fit...which thins the walls of the rings


  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Not to shabby for a "RC Enthusiast." (lol) I don't understand what heat covers your talking about, but you set your heat sink over your caps like in picture #27 along with a little thermal paste like in picture #32. Then (if needed) a dab of silicon on where the heat sink meets the ESC plastic like in picture....wait a minute. There's no picture.

    Here's the silicon. You can get it at NAPA.



    Your heat sink fits on your caps like this. On the tops of your caps is where you put a dab of heat sink compound (or, its also called thermal paste).

    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 05-30-2020 at 05:29 AM.
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  30. #30
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    So here is my finished cooler. One for my Spartan and one for my M41.
    Got the thermal paste as well. So tomorrow I hope to go and test the boat with my 2 separate pick ups as well....



    I

  31. #31
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    Looks good, mine works so I'm confident yours will lower temps also.

  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Turned out pretty good, if you do say so yourself. (lol) Make sure you drill out the tubes to make sure you have clean travel for your water. You want to be able to put a snug fitting rod all the way though your tubes without any trouble.
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  33. #33
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    Looks real nice. Think I'll get me a mini radiator and make one for a land rc or 2...(kidding, but would be cool to see)

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Steve g; 05-30-2020 at 07:24 PM.

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve g View Post
    Looks real nice. Think I'll get me a mini radiator and make one for a land rc or 2...(kidding, but would be cool to see).
    I seen pictures, once, of a guy who made a radiator setup for his E-Maxx. It was pretty cool (no pun intended). (lol)
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  35. #35
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    So I tested my Spartan today and what a success.(With one hickup- posting a separate post re that...) The cooling system worked like a charm. I shortened my battery-Esc wires and temps overall felt way cooler...
    I didn't punch it 100% the whole time...ran a few full throttles, the cruise a section and ran it full again...inside bring it twice in to double check all is good and temps. And everything was really running cool. Here are pics of the final setup. I'll still clean the pipes a bit.




  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Great! I'm glad you're happy with it. Something else you might want to do down the road. See how nice your two left hoses look going into your Spartans hull. You can do the same thing with your stock hose hole to. That way, everything will match, and you will have a cleaner look. Here's me doing it.

    Going,


    Going,


    Gone.
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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve g View Post
    Looks real nice. Think I'll get me a mini radiator and make one for a land rc or 2...(kidding, but would be cool to see)

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
    I thought about one of these too, but my temps haven't required one yet, but maybe one day just to try it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQ4wUHCWasY

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I think they're really cool, but (IMO) not needed. If a person picks the right conventional setup for their RC vehicles, then heat (to the point of needing a air cooled radiator) isn't a problem.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 06-03-2020 at 03:57 PM.
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