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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    My ERBEv1 conversion to ERBEv2.

    My wife got my brushless erevo for me (I asked for it) as a Christmas gift in 2016. This was going to be my first non-micro electric vehicle and I figured that since I had 2 nitro revos, may as well stick with the theme and go with a brushless revo.

    I had her include the ez-peak plus duo charger and a pair of the 3S 5000mah lipos. She ordered it in November and by the time Christmas came around, I had read a lot about it and surmised that starting with 6S in it may not be the smartest move. So before Christmas, I had ordered a couple 2S packs to use instead.

    I ran it on 4S the entire time I had it. I had the punch dialed way down, made sure to never land on throttle and gently accelerate to avoid damaging the axles. Even driving like that, I was changing out all the slider axles at least twice a year, some times 3 times. They would stretch at the ears and eventually break.

    Then I got a couple other 6S capable RC's, ran those on 4S as well for a year. Then recently, I decided to try 6S in them... I was hooked. Then to have the fewest types of packs on hand, I decided now that the 2.0 was out, it was time to upgrade.

    I wanted to keep some of the parts (regardless how stupid that was) so I could still say I had the truck my wife got me. I got a roller off ebay that needed a bit of TLC and transplanted my electronics, wheels/body/body mounts, shocks, springs, rockers, front/rear TBR bumpers/skids/wheelie bar (required modifying) and a few other things.

    In an effort to keep the body lasting longer, I made a very crude "roll bar" with foam on it to support the roof of the cab. It really has helped, but looks hideous.

    This was with the old body right after I transplanted parts from my v1:


    I had a new body on the shelf and I threw that on after changing from 14/54 to 15/54 gearing:


    The goofy roll bar:


    I'm not a huge fan of the 3.3 tmaxx tires I had on it. They feel like they are too light and are really limiting my control in the air. I have a set of trencher 3.8's, but when I ran those on my v1, I busted sliders frequently and snapped shock ends. So, I was trying to find a happy medium with something that was a bit lighter and maybe not quite as tall. I failed... ordered a set of MT4 G3 tires/wheels to put on it, which have splined hex's. It wasn't until I tried installing them that I realized they were not splined the same as traxxas. After an hour with an exacto shaving down the indent part of the hex's on the wheels, I got them to fit. I also wrapped them with kevlar line to avoid having them blow apart when at WOT in the air for flips and whatever:




    They are lighter than the trenchers, only about 1oz, trencher 3.8's are 13.65oz and the MT4 G3 are 12.5oz. Unfortunately, they really aren't any shorter, but they are a bit narrower. I put my push rods back in the middle hole as I had moved them to the tallest hole. Hoping the middle hole is enough as the chassis does bottom out before the shocks do.

    Currently running the following:
    Traxxas MXL-6S/2200kv 15/54 gearing
    Hard Anno'd/TiNi shocks with VDK #2, 60wt and RC Raven dual rate springs
    Integy P2 rockers
    Homemade rear shock limiters made out of covered steel cable
    JX Servo DC-5821LV servo
    Spektrum DX5C radio
    Yeah Racing fan in the castle motor fan holder
    T-Bone front/rear skid with wheelie bar
    V1 body mounts
    V1 body
    Traxxas rear alloy chassis brace (removed the v2 stock one)

    I run the following lipo's in it:
    Hobbystar 6200mah 50C 3S
    HRB 5000mah 50C 3S

    I think I can move over my alloy steering support (the part the servo saver/pivot bolt threads into), but I haven't yet. I know I can't swap over my RPM True track rear and RPM front arms/carriers. I have the same on my nitro revo's, so the ones from my v1 will just be a backup set.

    It's a work in progress. With the Tmaxx 3.3 tires, I could not pull off a flip hardly on any jump. I'm not sure if it's due to the gearing, the wheels/tires or the fact that the rear pillow balls are in the longest wheelbase holes.

    So far, it has held up really well. I broke one axle carrier that I'm 99% sure was already broken when I got it. The piece of plastic that was missing holding the pillow ball in looked dirty 5 minutes into my first run when it popped out. I've run it pretty hard at my local skate park and at a public grass bmx track I drive an hour to bash at. I push it way harder than I ever did when it was a v1 and it just keeps going.

    I intend on taking it out today, if I wake up, to try out the new tires without messing with the gearing. I also intend on taking one of my nitro revo's with me.

    My last bash at my local skate park:
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 08-10-2019 at 01:01 AM.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Changed image hosting since last post, so including the lost images from my first post:

    This was with the old body right after I transplanted parts from my v1:


    I had a new body on the shelf and I threw that on after changing from 14/54 to 15/54 gearing:


    The goofy roll bar:


    MT4 G3 tires/wheels:

    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    The MT4 tires didn't last. Since they had "keyed" hex's like traxxas, but a hair different, I had to modify them the best I could with an exacto to get them to fit. Guessing it made it too weak and 2 of the center's snapped out of the wheels after a few bash sessions. I went back to trencher 3.8's and ran those until this week.

    Current setup:
    HW Max6/BLX2050kv 18/54 gearing
    1800uf x 6 Cap Pack
    P2 rockers/rods
    70w AE VDK #3 front
    60w AE VDK #2 rear
    RCRaven Springs

    List of updates:
    Max6 esc (mxl-6s blew out on my 2nd or 3rd bash on 6S)
    BLX 4074 2050kv motor
    Hobbystar HCS-4521wp servo running at 7.2V
    Homemade 1/4" 6061 rear chassis brace
    RPM 2.0 arms on the front
    Different alloy rockers on the front because the integy p2's didn't work with the new RPM arms. They made a lot of contact at full extension
    Alloy servo saver mount (from the v1 I had)

    1/4" chassis brace:


    Max6/2050kv:


    RPM Arms/Atomik rockers on the front. So far, the rockers are holding up. I wasn't sure since other Atomik parts I put on my stampede bent pretty easily.


    Put a set of the HD pushrods on the rear to try them out to see if the ends last longer (part# 8619):


    I busted 3 or 4 center chassis tunnel/covers at the cut out for axle access. I had an integy alloy one my wife got me for Christmas last year, so I decided to try it. Guessing it may cause things to be a bit too rigid, so will see how it goes.


    I think that covers most of it up until yesterday.

    Yesterday I finally cut down the probodyrc body and mounted it up. I also installed a used set of Talon EXT's I bought a while back to try out. Didn't realize how much width they add over the 0 offset trenchers. Hoping the extra leverage doesn't hurt the bearings too bad or add a ton more leverage and cause busted arms/carriers in bad landings. Other than pushrod/tie-rod ends, I haven't had many issues with the trenchers. Just rolls over really easy, so I nearly have to stop to turn.

    Trenchers on the right, talon ext's left:


    talon ext's on both:



    The trenchers are a bit larger OD, kind of makes the EXT's look small in comparison.

    Trenchers:


    Ext:


    Hoping the fact that the EXT's (13.9oz) being heavier the trenchers (13.4oz) don't cause heat issues. The smaller OD should help, I didn't gear up to compensate for speed. I did wrap them with 500lb cored kevlar cord like I do all my 6S truck tires to avoid having them blow off when doing flips and to keep them from being pizza cutters at high speeds.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Went back to the trenchers. Didn't care for the thinner sidewall/smaller OD, extra weight and surprising lack of forward traction. I did buy some hot racing 10mm hub extensions though, so I'll retain the 1/2" offset with my trenchers.




    Dropped the ride height back down to the center hole in the arms to accommodate the larger OD tires again.

    Also having issues with the battery doors breaking on me at the hinges. I made some little wings for it to hopefully help support the doors. If not, I'll spend the $ on the integy doors, which I really don't want. They use a mechanical hinge though, so should hold up better. Would prefer sticking with stock doors, likely lighter than integy ones. If they seem to help, I'll post up some pics of those later.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    The supports and clips I put on the battery doors to try and help them last longer:



    Might dremel the tips of the screws off, not sure if they will snag anything when running:


    The hole for the body clips on the battery door locks I've seen others do:


    With the body clip in it, it helps keep the clasp from opening since the wire is in the way for the little lever to go down:


    Would probably work better with those body clips that have a longer straight piece, but I don't have any of those around.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  6. #6
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    How'd you get the fan out of the castle blower housing?

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheFirestarter View Post
    How'd you get the fan out of the castle blower housing?
    Mine was busted, so I didn't have to care if it survived removal. I just stuck a screwdriver under it and twisted to pop it loose.

    FWIW, the battery bay support clips I made didn't seem to help. One of them started to split already... stinks that they only last me 4-5 bash sessions. Not sure what I'm doing wrong, can't imagine everyone else having this issue this bad. Too many big jumps?

    I busted another VDK #2 piston, this time in the rear. Decided to just replace them in the rear with the standard pistons and 50wt oil. Will do the same to the front when they break as they seem like they will eventually.
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 09-20-2020 at 03:17 PM.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

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