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  1. #1
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Any way to put the 2.0 on a diet?

    I've been trying to get the most out of my 2.0 recently and I keep hitting some snags. I wanted to stiffen up the suspension so I went pretty heavy on oil and I run pretty heavy springs. I did accomplish what i was hoping for, but in doing so I created a new but common problem. I am constantly bending push rods and bending toe links and breaking the toe link rod ends. I had no problems before so I know it's from the beefed up suspension. I could try some lunsford rods, they do offer warranties for broken or bent links. I also looked at putting together some 6mm steel links with steel rod ends but it is going to be pretty pricey.

    The biggest problem I've noticed with the 2.0 is the weight. The thing is heavy. Traxxas lists it at 11.2lbs. Even though it is pretty beefy in most areas it is prone to break. I have another 8th scale MT that weighs in at 8.3 lbs and the difference is extremely noticeable in performance and durability. I can jump that truck twice as far before bottoming out and when it does it holds up. Sure it is standard in design, the suspension and chassis is unconventional on 2.0, but it just works.

    So I guess what I'm asking is does anybody have any ideas on lightening the 2.0 up? I'm not really sure where to even start, seeing as the design of the truck and the chassis kind of limits what you could do. The only thing I can really think of is running much smaller batteries, but I still don't know that would be enough. I'm looking to loose pounds, not ounces. Don't know if it is at all possible, but I'm all ears, would love to hear ideas.

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  2. #2
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    Been looking to shave weight for street racing for a while...been doing research and here is what I have come up with...but NOT going to be pounds plural for sure:

    TRA5354X aluminum rocker posts
    TRA4933X aluminum pivot balls
    TRA5355X aluminum hollow ball set
    Traxxas aluminum turnbuckles and pushrods, part # varies by color.
    RPM A-arms, fronts for sure are lighter, I am unsure of rears. No solid answer yet on these.
    Lunsford titanium hinge pins
    Lunsford titanium screw kit (super pricey)
    Run a single servo, cut off left side servo arm once down to single servo.
    Run lesser MAH 3s lipos to shave battery weight.
    Go to a lexan 1/8th wing...(wont hold up super well for bashing though)

    Just a handful of ideas and stuff I have looked into. I too am very open to ideas!
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  3. #3
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    First thought for me is tires.... Light rims and perhaps the non 3.8 Badlands.

    Might be able to shave a lb or 2 by going to stadium truck tires. But no idea on handling, stance, looks.

    Other area is batteries. Go to some 1/16 scale 3s? Probably save a lb there... But then probably only getting 5 to 10 mins run time. Smc has 40c 3s at 1500mha.

    Things are built a bit heavyweight as it needs that. Center, front n rear diffs.

    Not sure if going to different Axel's n drive cups would make a difference. If titanium may some some weight but no idea if holds up. But then doubt anyone sells those ..

    I don't see a way to shave off lbs of this car. Might be able to save some oz with what Rick posted.

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  4. #4
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Compared to the v1, it's definitely heavier. The beefed up axles/diffs/arms add a lot of weight. I've been airing mine out pretty good without too much drama so far. I did break a rear tierod end today. I'm not sure if it was weakened from the previous owner (converted my v1 with a used roller) or if I landed exactly how it needed so it would break.

    You can check out what I did with mine today as fair as jumping is concerned. I got it up and out quite a ways at the skate park and bmx track today:
    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...28#post6506328

    That ERBEv2 runs RC Raven/60wt/vdk#2/alloy p2 rockers.

    I did snap a shock shaft on one of my nitro revo's today. I have been trying a bit of an experiment on it, but it runs blue/silver springs/vdk#2/alloy p2 rockers/80wt. The experiment is running p3 pushrods in the furthest out holes. This puts less of an angle on the ball end that connects the pushrod to the rocker. It seems to be helping with my wear and I've run it pretty hard the last time I had it at the bmx track without issue. So, I don't know if I landed just right to break it or if this will become a common occurrence. I'm intending on just fixing the shock and leaving it as is to see how it does. I've had p3 rods on the front since I got it and haven't had any real issues with that. The p3's on the rear are the recent change.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  5. #5
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    I did the Lundsford, so far so good. No warranty on them... also not sure of the availability, I bought mine 6 month or more ago ant I had to but longer and cut them down. It ok but not optimal.

    Also had issues with their threads not being reversed. Had to heat up the rods ends to get them stared......

    Good luck!

  6. #6
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    I’ll weight mine tomorrow with no batteries and wheels and that should give you an idea on the weight saving on the alloy Traxxas parts as I have all of them!

  7. #7
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    Awesome thx SC11!
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  8. #8
    RC Champion
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    First thought for me is tires.... Light rims and perhaps the non 3.8 Badlands.

    Might be able to shave a lb or 2 by going to stadium truck tires. But no idea on handling, stance, looks.

    Other area is batteries. Go to some 1/16 scale 3s? Probably save a lb there... But then probably only getting 5 to 10 mins run time. Smc has 40c 3s at 1500mha.

    Things are built a bit heavyweight as it needs that. Center, front n rear diffs.

    Not sure if going to different Axel's n drive cups would make a difference. If titanium may some some weight but no idea if holds up. But then doubt anyone sells those ..

    I don't see a way to shave off lbs of this car. Might be able to save some oz with what Rick posted.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Good call out on wheel and tire combos...I forgot to mention that. Since I'm street racing, I'm using GRP 1/5th wheels with Emperformance adapters.
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  9. #9
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    I had thought about wheels and tires before I posted. I had already been running shockwaves which are about as light as you can get without going to a buggy or truggy tire. I did put a set of my 2.8s on there just to see, they are just way too small.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  10. #10
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    Mine weighs in at 4.04kg that’s body with all my add ones minus wheels & batteries

  11. #11
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    Dang 8.9 pounds without wheels and tires...now I gotta get a scale to weigh mine. Lol!
    ABMods 3.3 Revo PE
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    Dang 8.9 pounds without wheels and tires...now I gotta get a scale to weigh mine. Lol!
    Yep haha

    5.4kg with the terrain crushers mounted (no batteries) so whatís that about 400g over stock! Not that bad consider what Iíve added.

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier USMC1984's Avatar
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    Specs from Traxxas list the Revo 2.0 at 11.2 pounds.

    Do aluminum parts make it weigh more or less?

  14. #14
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USMC1984 View Post
    Specs from Traxxas list the Revo 2.0 at 11.2 pounds.

    Do aluminum parts make it weigh more or less?
    Depends if your replacing steel parts with aluminum or plastic parts with aluminum. Pushrods, tierods, pivot posts are all steel. Changing to aluminum would remove a bit of weight. Although, if you plan on airing it out a lot... I'd stick with steel pivot posts. I bend those as it is, pretty sure I'd just snap aluminum ones off.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  15. #15
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    Any way to put the 2.0 on a diet?

    Steel > alu lighter
    Plastic > alu heavier

    Just realised the alu rocker posts is the only X alu part I havenít fitted, I decided against them on the reason above.

    Be aware even though Iíve replaced a lot of the steel with alu there has still be a considerable amount of kit added!


  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by zamlawlz View Post
    does that wing mount up to the stock mount? or do you need the arrma hardwear?
    Itís the stock Revo wing mount but I had to customise it to fit!

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