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Thread: Rustler wont go

  1. #1
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    Rustler wont go

    My rustler wont go. I hear the motor spinning but the wheels dont spin. I hold it up in the air and they will spin but it takes a bit for them to get going. Anyone know what the problem is here?

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    1. Is it an XL-5 or a VXL? It helps if you inclusw this in your post.
    2. Check slipper clutch.
    3. Reply with an answer to question #1.
    4. After someone else helps you(I am new to this as well. Reading a year's worth of threads helps.), take apart transmission case and check for broken pins, gears, or bearings in transmission. Clean it while you've got it open if you don't see any issues.

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier MECHANIC77's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Is_It_Broken? View Post
    1. Is it an XL-5 or a VXL? It helps if you inclusw this in your post.
    2. Check slipper clutch.
    3. Reply with an answer to question #1.
    4. After someone else helps you(I am new to this as well. Reading a year's worth of threads helps.), take apart transmission case and check for broken pins, gears, or bearings in transmission. Clean it while you've got it open if you don't see any issues.

    Hi.. I just think it's time for me to pass away from the difference of opinion who we had in the past, anyhow you have argued on my Forum thread but finally I have decided not to confront you on my thread, unfortunately you have received one of my lost bullets in the chest but I'm not proud of this because there are an unwritten rule on the Forum who suggests that we do not have to undermine the respect of others, no matter of hierarchy or age.



    So I forgive you and I am sorry for my lack of respect. By the way, I like what you post and I am always proud to see younger people learning and progress on the Forum.
    Last edited by MECHANIC77; 08-20-2019 at 12:01 PM.
    Good driver. Bad setup. Bad things will happen...

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sharkbait View Post
    My rustler wont go. I hear the motor spinning but the wheels dont spin. I hold it up in the air and they will spin but it takes a bit for them to get going. Anyone know what the problem is here?
    Sounds like your slipper clutch might be out of adjustment. If there is gear damage in the tranny, it usually sounds loud and clicky and pretty terrible.

    But like the other fella said, XL-5 or VXL? Stock setup? If itís not the slipper, you could look at driveshafts maybe. The stock plastic ones can get stripped pretty easily and behave like youíre describing.

    Additionally, if youíre new to this, tearing the whole thing down can be a really empowering experience. Iíve had a Rustler for about a year and have done the same. Good times!


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  5. #5
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    Remove your gear cover and hold down your rc without the body on applying down pressure giving it some throttle and watch what moves and what doesn't, spur, pinion and axles.

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    Its a vxl 3s. It was an xl5 but i converted it. Spur and pinion move but driveshafts dont. I just put rustler 4x4 shafts on it but i read in the forum that they work without issue on the 2wd.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    Sounds like your slipper clutch might be out of adjustment. If there is gear damage in the tranny, it usually sounds loud and clicky and pretty terrible.

    But like the other fella said, XL-5 or VXL? Stock setup? If it’s not the slipper, you could look at driveshafts maybe. The stock plastic ones can get stripped pretty easily and behave like you’re describing.

    Additionally, if you’re new to this, tearing the whole thing down can be a really empowering experience. I’ve had a Rustler for about a year and have done the same. Good times!


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    haha ive had mine for a year now too. I have taken it apart severl times now.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sharkbait View Post
    Its a vxl 3s. It was an xl5 but i converted it. Spur and pinion move but driveshafts dont. I just put rustler 4x4 shafts on it but i read in the forum that they work without issue on the 2wd.
    If you lift up the rear end and slowly spin one wheel forward, is the other spinning backwards at the same rate?


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  9. #9
    RC Racer RC Dad's Avatar
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    Also, if you rebuild the tranny, get this part here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-TRA...-/233293743648

    Also, the Robinson racing idler gear.


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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    If you lift up the rear end and slowly spin one wheel forward, is the other spinning backwards at the same rate?


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    No it does not i a hot racing diff locker spool.

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    Im not planning on rebuilding the tranny. Plus i think the RR gear doesnt fit in my RPM gearbox

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sharkbait View Post
    Im not planning on rebuilding the tranny. Plus i think the RR gear doesnt fit in my RPM gearbox
    Gotcha. I have the RPM hybrid gearbox too. The RR idler will fit. Itís the same spec as stock, just hardened steel.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Sharkbait View Post
    Its a vxl 3s. It was an xl5 but i converted it. Spur and pinion move but driveshafts dont. I just put rustler 4x4 shafts on it but i read in the forum that they work without issue on the 2wd.
    If you pull the driveshafts off, are the output shafts spinning? If not, it could be you stripped the teeth off one of the tranny gears.

    I had the spool locker too, but ended up stripping the teeth off the idler and the top drive gear. After that, I installed the hot racing sealed diff. Itís been pretty reliable. Only caveat is that you have to take some care during the assembly.


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  14. #14
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    I think the spool locker is great, so long as you only ever run on loose surfaces. Pretty sure I smoked my gears running on asphalt.


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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    I think the spool locker is great, so long as you only ever run on loose surfaces. Pretty sure I smoked my gears running on asphalt.


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    Yeah..... that may have happend a few times.

  16. #16
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    The gears in the tranny are not stripped.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sharkbait View Post
    The gears in the tranny are not stripped.
    Oh, my bad. I didnít realize youíd already opened up the tranny. That is a bit of a head scratcher.

    So if you remove the grub screws that hold the inner drive shafts to the output shafts on the diff housing, do they spin normally? What about looking at the driveshafts all by themselves? Does the male section lock into the female section without any play?


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  18. #18
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    Oh! What about that crappy little hollow shear pin that holds the top gear on the slipper shaft?


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    I've heard that you can take the tiny hex wrench that came with the car and cut it to match the size of the shear pin without I'll effects. Also, it's an excuse to get a set of hex drivers.

    Mechanic, if you are referencing the tire thread, I apologize profusely. I should have phrased that as a question and did not mean it argumentatively. I was a little excited about making it up and down my street without flipping the car.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Is_It_Broken? View Post
    I've heard that you can take the tiny hex wrench that came with the car and cut it to match the size of the shear pin without I'll effects. Also, it's an excuse to get a set of hex drivers.

    Mechanic, if you are referencing the tire thread, I apologize profusely. I should have phrased that as a question and did not mean it argumentatively. I was a little excited about making it up and down my street without flipping the car.
    Interesting! I read in another forum that you can cut the end off a high speed drill bit as well. Canít remember the exact diameter, but if you have a caliper, you can work it out.


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    Thanks for the help but that wasn’t the issue. The problem was that the hot racing diff spool has grub screws that hold it together. These had come loose letting it spin freely. So I lock tited them up and righted them down. I threw everything back together to take rusty for a rip. A few minutes in a the screws are loose again. I think I am going to do away with the difflocker.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sharkbait View Post
    Thanks for the help but that wasnít the issue. The problem was that the hot racing diff spool has grub screws that hold it together. These had come loose letting it spin freely. So I lock tited them up and righted them down. I threw everything back together to take rusty for a rip. A few minutes in a the screws are loose again. I think I am going to do away with the difflocker.
    Thatís a bummer! At least you solved the mystery though. If youíre thinking of losing the spool in favor of a diff, I highly recommend the hot racing sealed diff. Pretty straightforward build, you use all the internals from the stock diff.

    Two really important tips if you go that route:
    1. Use Associated green slime on the o-rings.
    2. Use loctite on the screws, tighten in a cris-cross pattern, and let the loctite set for 24-48 hours before you run it.

    I used traxxas 30k diff fluid in mine and it was pretty sweet.


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  23. #23
    RC Qualifier MECHANIC77's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Is_It_Broken? View Post
    Mechanic, if you are referencing the tire thread, I apologize profusely. I should have phrased that as a question and did not mean it argumentatively. I was a little excited about making it up and down my street without flipping the car.

    No problem at all mate and I agree with the fact that I was also hoping for a question more than an answer but anyhow in consolation, the tires thread have surpassed all my expectations, therefore, like engaged previously, sooner or later I will redact a complete vehicle setting review and if you want to add your spice to the recipe, you will be welcome.


    May the force be with you... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttPwA8hitoY
    Good driver. Bad setup. Bad things will happen...

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