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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier atoms's Avatar
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    So Ive already trashed my rear diff once on 2s.. just got a 3s battery.

    Aren't these cars designed for 3s?

    I've seen so many videos of 3s just DESTROYING the rear diff in these little cars.

    I want to use 3s for speed runs, but I'm gonna keep stock gearing...

    Do you think the diff will get shredded again? I rebuilt it and shimmed it...

    I think I'll do some slow and smooth acceleration for starters.
    If it's not breaking, you're not doing it right.

  2. #2
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    Shimming and perhaps some lighter diff fluid. I've yet to have issues with my diffs on 2s

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier atoms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Shimming and perhaps some lighter diff fluid. I've yet to have issues with my diffs on 2s

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    I used 3000 weight on my rear diff rebuild... Got the 3s battery in... will test and report back.
    If it's not breaking, you're not doing it right.

  4. #4
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    3.000 or 30.000 as stock?
    Which shims did you buy? Brand/peoduct/link?

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier atoms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nic112 View Post
    3.000 or 30.000 as stock?
    Which shims did you buy? Brand/peoduct/link?
    silicone 3,000 wt.

    Team Associated 21141 Differential Shim Set .324x.409x.005 (4)

    I used one.

    Truck has been running like a freakin' top too... on 2s. Just tearing it up. No issues.

    But I worry about 3s.
    If it's not breaking, you're not doing it right.

  6. #6
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    It doesn't matter how its built or what battery you use if you can control the throttle properly and not just go WOT all the time.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier atoms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    It doesn't matter how its built or what battery you use if you can control the throttle properly and not just go WOT all the time.
    Indeed... but man, IMHO the diff should be build to withstand full throttle from a dead stop using 2s batteries... I mean, even 3s...
    If it's not breaking, you're not doing it right.

  8. #8
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by atoms View Post
    Indeed... but man, IMHO the diff should be build to withstand full throttle from a dead stop using 2s batteries... I mean, even 3s...
    That is where the "hobby" part comes in. To start with if the slipper clutch was set properly you would be able to but it would likely wear alot faster since you would have to set it pretty loose.

    You should also consider it is in the best interest of profit to sell you stuff you can abuse/mistreat enough to break it and require the purchase of more parts.

  9. #9
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    Well, I heard the first signs of clicking on my new(ish) to me Merv tonight. I still finished the 2s pack I was driving on ( driving conservatively, but if I Gave it anything harder than an easy roll on from a stop or low speed I heard a ratcheting click noise.the sad thing is I just had the cases split to replace the diff case bulkheads since one of the screw holes that holds the rear tie rods was stripped out. While I was in there I cleaned and applied a light coat of grease and inspect everything. All the mesh looked done at the time and I would
    Have considered shimming it while I had it apart if I had the shims in hand at the time .
    So right now the truck is driving, but I know the diff is “going” but not dead yet.
    I already have a serviceable outer ring gear in the spare parts from the prod opus owner.
    Now, when I dive in and fix up the diff, do I just rebuild it with a new gear and old internals, or upgrade to the Hot Racing diff? ( I have heard good things about this setup.
    Also, while I’m ordering the shims, does anyone know offhand what size or part number shims to use on the Axels to “corner shim”the car? My rear wheels have some wobble that shimming the Acela will take care of

  10. #10
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    That HR diff seems awesome but expensive imo since I have not had trouble with the stock one. I have heard of "corner balance" or "corner shimming" suspension but haven't heard of corner shimming an axle so you will have to explain what that is please. As for shimming the diff that is putting shims on the outside of the diff on the ring gear side to tighten the mesh with the pinion.

  11. #11
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    More than likely the wobble in the rear wheels is the loose fitting stock axle carriers which has a ton of play in them. Both with the pillow balls and the axle. The best upgrade I did was the RPM axle carriers. They tighten everything up my tire wobble is gone and steering is much smoother. If you do plan to use them remember that they are easy to over-tighten and have abunch of binding. If you are careful tightening them slow and evenly making sure to leave just slight play they will work great. you will even notice there will lots of headroom to tighten them down over time with wear. Mine are over 2 years old and I have not had a reason to tighten them yet.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    More than likely the wobble in the rear wheels is the loose fitting stock axle carriers which has a ton of play in them. Both with the pillow balls and the axle. The best upgrade I did was the RPM axle carriers. They tighten everything up my tire wobble is gone and steering is much smoother. If you do plan to use them remember that they are easy to over-tighten and have abunch of binding. If you are careful tightening them slow and evenly making sure to leave just slight play they will work great. you will even notice there will lots of headroom to tighten them down over time with wear. Mine are over 2 years old and I have not had a reason to tighten them yet.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    I looked at my carriers and they in fact have set screws. They are, in fact, RPM ones.
    I tightened the set screws and replaced
    The black ball ends in the stock toe in links. This eliminated about 95% of the slop. My left rear carrier still appears to have a play between the axle and the hub carrier so I may have to pick up a new pair to replace that position. I did have to find a 1.3mm but for those odd size set screws though.
    Funny side note, my wife lovingly laughed and rolled her eyes at My excitement over so long the wheel play issues ( without having to buy parts )
    Oh yes and I also shimmed the rear diff. Eliminated the sipping/ click there was no evidence of rounded or stripped ring or pinion so I just skimmed and cleaned/ greased the assembly.
    And by “corner shimming” above I was referring to putting thin, low friction nylon shims between the drive pin and the out bearing.
    I did it have to do this since the tightening the caps and replacing the tie rod ball ends helped.
    Last edited by Dakratfink; 09-19-2019 at 10:08 PM.

  13. #13
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Oh nice always great to have a fix without new parts grats. Ahh thanks for the explanation that was a new one for me but I can see how it helps.

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