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  1. #1
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    Slash 4x4 speed run help

    Hi,
    Alright so recently I bought a used xo-1 and put quite a bit of time and effort into it to make it what I wanted and to track straight to the point where I was comfortable to use it at its capability. After that I am now hooked on the whole speed run builds.

    So now I have a slash 4x4 that seems to be a very popular chassis to use. I have questions regarding the setup of the chassis as well as the electronics.

    First the chassis. Right now where it sits my slash is bone stock other than the shocks. I have the Traxxas big bore shocks. Not sure if those are efficient or not. Just giving you an idea of I where I stand. I already ordered battery trays, custom motor mount and a chassis brace from saga custom rc. I now Iím gonna need to upgrade my driveshafts. The mip seem to be a preferred choice. Again Iím open to ideas. I need to change over to 17mm hexs. A tire recommendation is appreciated as well. And what parts really should be upgraded. Diff fluid. Ect..

    Now for the big stuff!! From everything Iíve read the castle creations XLX ESC is a good one. But Iím not sure what motor to use. Iím looking at the castle creations 2028 motor. Is this one any good? Iím looking to make this car do over a 100 mph+. But I want a reliable motor that will give me that and not to much grief. I also found out which I never knew was to add cap packs for the riddle current. So which is a good cap pack. (makes me wonder if the xo-1 should have one to than) would it be a good idea to make the cap packs a plug and play or not. More connections is not great but is that really going to hurt me.

    And last but not least! The connections. When it comes to the amps and what connections to use Iím at a loss. Are the xt90 connections any good for this or should I strictly make every thing bullet connections.

    I know I asked a lot here. I just want to do this right. If any of this is most important it would be the motor/ESC thatís what Iím really trying to figure out. Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    My favorite platform for speed. i would go with a tppower 4070 cm 2200 motor, castle xlx, and use 8mm bullet connectors, and a ripple Killer cap pack. best out there. start with grp tires and then when car is getting faster can switch to foams (bsr)
    slash 4x4 168mph
    youtube:philip jolley

  3. #3
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    Great thank you. Definitely helped me here. I wasn’t sure with the 2028 motor. I’ve read and seen a lot of people use tppower motors. Now with that motor what size shaft would you recommend? 5 or 8mm? And what end cap? Open or closed vents.
    With the cap pack is it okay to make that with a connection for like a plug and play? Or should that just be solid wire?
    I have a bunch of questions. Lol this is my first build and I want to do it right but make it as user friendly to. But I know more wire is not really good with these kinds of amps and voltage. Thanks again!

  4. #4
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    What about the tp 4070 2250kv?

  5. #5
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    The 2250kv looks good to

  6. #6
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    2250 is a great motor also. yes you can connect the cap pack with bullet connectors.
    slash 4x4 168mph
    youtube:philip jolley

  7. #7
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    [/PHP]
    Quote Originally Posted by phildogg View Post
    2250 is a great motor also. yes you can connect the cap pack with bullet connectors.
    Great. I appreciate your help a lot. I did end up going with the tp 4070 cm 2200 motor. As well as the killer cap packs. The grp Tireís for now. Sheís a work in progress!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racerderek38 View Post
    [/PHP]

    Great. I appreciate your help a lot. I did end up going with the tp 4070 cm 2200 motor. As well as the killer cap packs. The grp Tireís for now. Sheís a work in progress!
    awesome! grp will work nicely for awhile. till you push them too hard. then they become a weak link. if you need any more help lmk.
    slash 4x4 168mph
    youtube:philip jolley

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by phildogg View Post
    awesome! grp will work nicely for awhile. till you push them too hard. then they become a weak link. if you need any more help lmk.
    I do have another question. This is my first ever build so I want to do it right and from what I see your the top dog here. Lol
    I plan to go 6s first for obvious reasons. When I’m ready if I ever am I’ll go 8s. From what I read batteries can make or brake it. Not sure how true this is.
    I can’t charge any higher than 3s right now. With this build money is going quick so I’m not looking to have to buy a charger right away. If you have any recommendations that would be great.

    As for now I can’t think of what else I could ask you but if I need it I will.

    Traxxas has a strict language policy. A word filter operates to change inappropriate words and banned websites or brands to *s. When you see these in your post, you MUST edit them out. -ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 03-12-2019 at 08:21 PM. Reason: content

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Also take a look at SMC's batteries. Quality-wise, they're right up there with the best of them...plus, since you're buying them direct (there's NO "middlemen", NO wholesalers, NO 3rd-party distributers, etc), they cost considerably less than almost all other high-end batteries.

    https://www.smc-racing.net


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  11. #11
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    If you get grp wheels make sure to get the new J series hard wheel. They hold up to speeds better.


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  12. #12
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    Both PhillDog and GenralPede01 are Traxxas Slash 4x4 speed runners with many records of high speeds.
    I completely agree with all their comments for the setup.
    I know MIPs work but are quite heavy, you may want to look into the Tekno 6m axle and hub setup.

    If you are going to buy batteries and chargers I'd recommend looking at running parallel 4s initially and then when ready swap wiring to make it 8s. You can go well over 100mph on 4s. If you are running that big TP motor you will have to invest in batteries anyway. Lesser batteries will get in to low voltage cut-off pretty quickly. Like others said SMC is a great battery and tends to be lower priced than some other options. (plenty of records set with them)

    Hopefully you have some good roads and patience, there is a learning curve.

    Another side note, I believe most of us figured out a long time ago that Futaba radios have the best range. Nothing worse than getting your $1000 rig out of range and have a car coming down the road towards it!!!

    -Liberty

  13. #13
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    I already ordered my wheels. I have the grp revo s7 medium/hard. Are these any good? Will they do the job for now. Thanks

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by LibertyMKiii View Post
    Both PhillDog and GenralPede01 are Traxxas Slash 4x4 speed runners with many records of high speeds.
    I completely agree with all their comments for the setup.
    I know MIPs work but are quite heavy, you may want to look into the Tekno 6m axle and hub setup.

    If you are going to buy batteries and chargers I'd recommend looking at running parallel 4s initially and then when ready swap wiring to make it 8s. You can go well over 100mph on 4s. If you are running that big TP motor you will have to invest in batteries anyway. Lesser batteries will get in to low voltage cut-off pretty quickly. Like others said SMC is a great battery and tends to be lower priced than some other options. (plenty of records set with them)

    Hopefully you have some good roads and patience, there is a learning curve.

    Another side note, I believe most of us figured out a long time ago that Futaba radios have the best range. Nothing worse than getting your $1000 rig out of range and have a car coming down the road towards it!!!

    -Liberty
    Yes I went with the big tp motor that phillDog suggested. So you’re saying go 4s in parallel. I am going to have to invent batteries yes. But I would need a charger to than. My chargers only do up to 3s. Which is why I’m saying I’ll do 6s. I don’t want to spend anymore than I don’t have to. But I will take that into consideration.

    Now you say after I make the jump to 8s eventually to rewire for it. What is “8s wiring” my plan is to wire the car for 8s including the cap pack. Whether I run 4s or 6s it should be good...? Right.

    The last thing you said was the radio. Is this any good? Futaba 4PV 4-Channel 2.4GHz S-FHSS/T-FHSS Radio System w/R304SB Receiver It has anti lock braking which seems like it could be good for speed runs as most crashes seem to be under bricking. I can’t see myself spending $800 on a radio though. Hopefully this is sufficient than. Thanks

  15. #15
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    Yes the 4pv would be great. One thing to note is to program the esc to run drag brake. This applies the brake lightly anytime you are off throttle. Imagine if it does lose signal... it will automatically start slowing the car down. I always tune the braking percentage so that it is not too much. Plus there is a throttle curve and brake curve to tune.

    You can certainly start on 3s and then 6s. Moving from one configuration to the other is just making some bullet wiring to have the batteries in parallel or series. The cap pack for 8s will work fine on lower power levels. Batteries and chargers are an expensive but necessary evil.

  16. #16
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    Hopefully the others can give some good advice on the s7 compound tires you have. My experiences with grp is limited but I know that those usually have less grip and wont do well on cold weather/pavement.

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    I have some GRP S7 's but have not run them yet...
    They are for Southern California summers where we have +100˚F temps for days on end.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  18. #18
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    I have ran s7 alot and once they are warmed up grip like crazy. Also when the tires are worn seems they grip better also..
    slash 4x4 168mph
    youtube:philip jolley

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by LibertyMKiii View Post
    Yes the 4pv would be great. One thing to note is to program the esc to run drag brake. This applies the brake lightly anytime you are off throttle. Imagine if it does lose signal... it will automatically start slowing the car down. I always tune the braking percentage so that it is not too much. Plus there is a throttle curve and brake curve to tune.

    You can certainly start on 3s and then 6s. Moving from one configuration to the other is just making some bullet wiring to have the batteries in parallel or series. The cap pack for 8s will work fine on lower power levels. Batteries and chargers are an expensive but necessary evil.
    Okay. That’s good to know about the drag brake. I didn’t know that. Makes sense. I will definitely range test to know my limits though.
    And yes I know that batteries and charges are necessary. But for now until I can spend a little more I’m going to run 2- 3s packs in series. My plan for the build though is to wire with heavy wire and cap pack for an 8s application. When I spend the extra on the bigger stuff I’ll be good to go. (Probably a smarter idea to start slow and go up anyway) I appreciate your help.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by phildogg View Post
    I have ran s7 alot and once they are warmed up grip like crazy. Also when the tires are worn seems they grip better also..
    Yes, I’ve heard they are only pretty good on warm days. If I need to I’ll look into foams. But for now this is what I’ve got.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racerderek38 View Post
    Yes, I’ve heard they are only pretty good on warm days. If I need to I’ll look into foams. But for now this is what I’ve got.
    Foams are a 2 edged sword. On one hand they have great grip and seem to be much more stable. The flip side to that is once there is a small flaw they have to be tossed, and BSR 1/8 scale foams are not cheap.

    GRP tires on the other hand can take a beating and keep on going. When getting started crashes are part of the game nearly 50% of the time once you are pushing over 80mph. I always say get the car dialed in with GRPs and IIIIFFFFFFF you get to the point of going over 140mph then look into foams.

    -Liberty

  22. #22
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    Alright so I have a slight problem here. My build is coming along slowly but surely. I just got a road block. I ended up stripping the set screw on my pinion gear. Unfortunately I had locktite on it as well so everything I tried didn’t work. My last resort was to drill it out. Really didn’t want to because I was afraid to damage the shaft. Well I have a decent dimple in the shaft now. 8mm shaft. If I were to guess the dimple is 1 mm deep. Not good.

    So my question here is will that affect the balance of the motor. Is it done for? Really hope not. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.



    Ps. I will never do an 8mm shaft again after this. Makes everything so close and a pain to work with.

  23. #23
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    I would assume it would be fine. You can always spin the motor with no gear on it to see if there are any odd vibrations at various throttle positions like 10% 25% 50% 75% etc...

    Highly recommend getting a set of MIP hex tools. I have never stripped a screw since owning them. It used to be a monthly occurrence prior to owning them.

    -Liberty

  24. #24
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    Great thank you. Something had to go wrong during the build and unfortunately it was this! Lol But yes definitely need to invest in a good set. I ended up just getting another motor because I want to do this build right. I’m going to be well over a $1000 deep into this. What’s another $160. I have an xo-1 thatvi blew up so maybe a project for that.


    Off topic a bit. How can I post pictures here. Would love to show the progress so far!! Coming slowly but it’s getting there!

    Again I appreciate everyone’s help so far. Definitely feel better with the build now!

  25. #25
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    In the future when you drill out something like that use a reverse drill bit. They tend to bite into the metal then back the fastener out.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMcD308 View Post
    In the future when you drill out something like that use a reverse drill bit. They tend to bite into the metal then back the fastener out.
    Yea I know. I didn’t have any and I just wanted it out. But we live and we learn

  27. #27
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    Off topic a bit. How can I post pictures here. Would love to show the progress so far!! Coming slowly but itís getting there!
    Here is a thread for that: Picture Posting Tutorial
    Good luck with your build and cant wait to see some pics!
    I like free stuff!

  28. #28
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    After reading the Picture Posting Tutorial linked above, some members cannot find the [IMG] button/icon in the editor.

    You may have to change some settings in your profile as well.

    If you don't see it, you need to change the setting on your account.

    On the grey bar on the top of the page you have to click on the "Forum Action" tab and select "General Settings."

    Once there, scroll down the page to "Miscellaneous Options" and change your Message Editor Interface and select "Standard Editor - Extra formatting controls."

    Go to the bottom of the page and hit "Save Changes."

    Done.

    Also, many members here also use Tapatalk to host their pictures.

    Good luck!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  29. #29
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    https://www.flickr.com/photos/169432...eposted-public

    There’s my progress. Quite a bit left still such as a arms, sway bars, bumpers and solder everything up. She’s coming along. Unfortunately time is against me ��
    Last edited by Racerderek38; 04-04-2019 at 01:14 PM.

  30. #30
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    Nice pics! Looks like it's just about done.
    Can't wait to see the completed rig and hear how that TP Power motor does!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Nice pics! Looks like it's just about done.
    Can't wait to see the completed rig and hear how that TP Power motor does!
    Where getting there! Still some things I need such as a body and batteries. I will definitely post results and a finished product here

  32. #32
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    https://www.flickr.com/photos/169432...eposted-public

    Step in the right direction. ESC is mounted with 8mm anti spark connectors from offshore electronics. Next is cap pack motor bullets, batteries and a body!!

    Also ended up ditching the motor that I put the dimple in. Ordered the same just with a 5mm shaft this time.
    Last edited by Racerderek38; 04-08-2019 at 05:36 PM.

  33. #33
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  34. #34
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    looks good, i would stay with stock traxxas driveshaft instead of the tekno, ripple killer cap pack also. what kv is the old motor?
    slash 4x4 168mph
    youtube:philip jolley

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by phildogg View Post
    looks good, i would stay with stock traxxas driveshaft instead of the tekno, ripple killer cap pack also. what kv is the old motor?
    I have the ripple killer cap pack. Just need to solder it in. The old motor is the same one. It’s a to 4070 cm 2200 kv. With 8mm shaft. I jut ended up putting a dimple in the shaft do to a stripped set screw. Don’t think it’ll hurt anything. Just the fact I know it’s there bothers me so I tossed it to the side.

  36. #36
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    Looking good!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  37. #37
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post


    Looking good!
    Where do you get abody to fit that and how do you have those battery trays attached?
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  38. #38
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    Where do you get abody to fit that and how do you have those battery trays attached?
    Looks to me like the battery trays were attached to the nerf/side bars mounts.

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  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Yup... see pics on Saga’s website:
    https://www.sagacustomrc.com/store/p...s_revised.html

    Most GT8 bodies would fit.
    Last edited by Squeegie; 04-10-2019 at 12:01 AM.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  40. #40
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    I recommend getting the Rally front bumper and proline body mounts (fits the rally bumper)
    You may need shorter shock towers depending on the body you decide on. Fitting the speed run bodies isn't quite plug n' play.

    Looking good so far.

    -Liberty

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