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Thread: Gearing advice?

  1. #1
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    Gearing advice?

    Man Iím loving this thing haha sadly for anyone who followed my build itís now looking well enjoyed

    Running MMX & 1515 stock ESC fan but two R1 Wurks in the motor and I typically do two full 6S runs back to back on the stock 15/54 gearing.

    Getting these temps
    Motor average 107F (~42c) with a peak of 145F (~63c)
    ESC average 157F (~70c) with a peak of 185f (~85c)

    Would you leave as is or adjust gearing, happy with the drive just donít know if I should try and bring the ESC temp down a little?

  2. #2
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    For your motor your doing good. I get 140+f average or more on the stock 2200kv motor. Esc I think I push the same as you on average temps.

    Temp gun on esc says 100ish to 130 if I remember right. Don't think I ever saw over 150f Temp gun on motor.

    Got the bt module now but been a minute since I Ran and checked #.

    Been a even longer since I Ran my nice smc batteries. My electro. Pros are craping out. No wheelies or tire ballooning in grass.

    Guess I need to check my # on a stock set up and report back. Ramps been fixed and ready for action.



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  3. #3
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    I must admit the R1 fans keep the temps down far better then the YR fans, they move so much air and I do run two of them.

    B-Link is great for set up on the fly but ultimately it needs live data logging to be what I think it should be, temps are checked at the track with a temp gun but I do check the data logs when I get home to the above temps are accurate off the logs.

    I’m waiting on some better batteries and will update then, as I am having some issues with ripple current and intermittent shutdown.

  4. #4
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    I would think about about upgrading your ESC fan. You're getting up there. There is a very good upgrade option. I'll PM you the link if I can find it. Unfortunately the info is not on a Traxxas product so I don't believe they would allow it here.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SC11 View Post
    I must admit the R1 fans keep the temps down far better then the YR fans, they move so much air and I do run two of them.

    B-Link is great for set up on the fly but ultimately it needs live data logging to be what I think it should be, temps are checked at the track with a temp gun but I do check the data logs when I get home to the above temps are accurate off the logs.

    I’m waiting on some better batteries and will update then, as I am having some issues with ripple current and intermittent shutdown.
    Which R1 fans are you running and are they good to run wired together off a 2s lipo. Im looking for other fan options at the moment as I have the YR fans and heat sink now.

  6. #6
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    The thicker 30mm ones ~$20 I run two wired in parallel onto the Rx, amp draw on two of these will be tiny why not run off the BEC?

  7. #7
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    I never answered your original gearing question. The general theory about temps is if your ESC is running hotter than your motor, it is possible that you are under geared. I don't know how accurate that theory is,but in my case it has never been proven accurate. You could try gearing up to like a 17t pinion and see if those temps get a little closer, meaning your ESC comes down a little bit and your motor goes up a bit. You have some room on the motor still, but the ESC is about as high as I would go. In my experience running the monster x in the revo with that gearing I was getting max ESC temps of around 145f and motor temps were ridiculous with no fans. Stock 2200kv topped out at 240f, Arrma 2050kv was 230f, and the Castle 2200kv was 212f. Even after all that I never saw an ESC temp like you are experiencing.

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  8. #8
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    I've seen 185F in my MMX logs from my Savage flux on 6S. Oddly, with a temp gun on the heat sink, the highest I saw was 145-150F.

    Running the v1 electronics (MXL-6S (MMv2)/2200kv) in my 2.0 I was seeing 140F at the esc and 160F on the motor with the castle housing and yeah racing fan on the motor. That was with stock gearing (15/54) and trencher 3.8's that were wrapped with kevlar string.

    My MXL-6S died on me the 3rd or 4th time I took it out and ran 6S in the 2.0. I ran it for 3 years in my ERBEv1 on 4S. Two of the caps puffed up on me and it won't send power through anymore. I can plug it into the field card on my PC, see the led blink and adjust the programming, but I get nothing when I connect it to the motor/receiver/packs.

    I put in the old HPI F350C (MMv1) esc into it and after upgrading the firmware and adjusting the brake/throttle curve, it's doing fine. I also built a 6x1800uf cap pack for it to help take some of the load off the ESC. On my MMX in the savage flux without the cap pack I was seeing ripple voltage above 3V. Now I'm seeing a max of .89V. So hopefully, since I conformal coated the board, wired the fan so it's always on, added the cap pack, the F350C will last.

    The first time I ran the F350C in it, I had older firmware, punch at 50 and the brake was horrible. Was like a friggen light switch at even a feather touch of the trigger. After upgrading to the latest firmware available, I gained a BEC adjustment (was 5.5V, now at 6V) but lost the punch setting. After reading online about that firmware version, the punch was essentially set on the soft side as people were blowing the caps. So, between that, a softer throttle and brake curve, it's great now. I ran 3 packs through it yesterday which was over an hour of solid bashing.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

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