Squeegie, if I remember correctly, uses his for speed runs & bashing. The one I've been collecting parts for will be used for 1/8 eBuggy racing. I should mention mine will be based on a Rustler 4x4, not a Slash 4x4...just think of it as a shortened-wheelbase BackSlash.
~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better
Mine were for bashing and ‘street’ runs... not ‘speed’ run.
I have no place to run it for that.
I do have most of the parts to do it if I wanted to though...
Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein
I figured it will have better aero and none of the parachuting/trying to rotate into flight so it might run a little faster. I may leave the first body clear to bash with it some tomorrow Hahahaha. I need to practice my paint job before I go for it too.
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Thought I’d power the backslash up and run it into everything in the apartment this morn, and the receiver wouldn’t power up. It just flickered a red light every so oftenwasn’t sure if it was the esc or receiver, so I plugged my esc in off the sand paw slash to see if it would power it up and same thing. Thinking the eBay receiver is trash
on the bright side I got the hobbywing setup in the sand paw slash, just waiting on the stampede receiver box to come in to mount up front
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Got the sissy bar and paint today! Also got the receiver box for my hobbywing slash and got it back together. Now to order the Tekno 17mm adapters and another receiver for the backslash.
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Is that lexan paint?
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Technically, Auto Air Colors is not a Lexan paint...it is designed for automotive use. However, it CAN be used on Lexan, and holds quite well. It is made by Createx, just as Wicked Colors is made by Createx, and is also excellent for user on Lexan.
In regards to Pro-Line paint...it, too, is Createx. When you buy Pro-Line paint, you're buying the same Createx Air colors, just with a different label, and work a limited selection of color choices (from the full Createx line of colors). Both companies readily confirm that Pro-Line paint are actually Createx Air. Whether you buy "Pro-Line", or "Createx", you're getting a top-quality paint.
~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better
I’ve used pro line, createx, vallejo, alclad II, and spray paint and haven’t had any issues, but I also don’t expect the bodies to live a long time as a basher. I duct tape the body mount spots on the inside and where the side bumpers/wheels might rub. I have yet to have paint flake off or fail from body movement, mine always gets worn down from friction or in the back from my gravel road. I have some Senton bodies I’ll probably run even as a cheap backup
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If you read what I said, I wasn't saying the paint wouldn't work...I said it WOULD work. alexsasax asked whether it was Lexan paint...I simply explained that, while it isn't, technically, "Lexan paint", it works on Lexan extremely well.
~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better
Minor setback last night more in the time standpoint. I was going to practice with the paint but came home to my “1200 pound capacity” shelf failing... nice how that weight claim is now gone. My bowling balls were no match for the shelf, and were all on top of my backslash but I don’t see any damage
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Time to replace plastic shelving unit (or units, since it looks like you have a second behind the first) work metal units. Check Costco.
~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better
I’ll probably have to order one. Our Walmart has a metal framed shelf but the middles are particle board. Thankfully the back one is just full of model kits so nowhere close to the same load. I’d check Costco if we had oneI’m in BFE
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Got the new receiver in today, and now changing from the hot racing 17mm hubs to the Tekno ones for the M6 drive shaft. It seems like it’ll be a stronger piece than the hot racing sitting on 12mm hex hubs.
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Got the parts I could on the backslash and will start working on my paint job tomorrow probably. In the meantime I converted my senton into a typhon minus the tires til the axles come in,and got another new addition to the garage above the two buggies
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Got the backslash out for it’s maiden voyage today and it was a blast! The paint really pops in the sun and the different tones make it look killer! I managed to power slide into a light pole and knocked the bottom plastic piece off the shock on the back left but I was able to put it back together. Other than that the wheelie bar dropped down once so I pulled out the screws and added loctite to keep them tight![]()
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I should mention I cut the vents open on the body, and ran the hot racing dust cover since the gravel tends to lock up fans on me when it gets kicked up inside
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A zip tie in the middle of the wheelie bar will stop it from dropping on u. Does require a new zip tie if you want to change position but a cheap fix imo.
Right on, I’ll slap one on it next time I mess with it. Ripped the esc off the receiver box lid on my typhon hybrid I’m messing with now. It’s been a busy weekend working on these! I’d like to step up to the 1/8 scale motor setups for the backslash but I need to find a place to mount the receiver. May have to leave it out of a box and avoid water.
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Looks FANTASTIC!!!
LUV the color. Now I'm wondering what it would look like work the same coloring technique, but using blues, instead of reds/rusts.
Regarding using Loctite on the screw for the wing, as long as it's not screwed into plastic, it's good...BUT, if the screw goes into plastic, that's a bad thing (ie. only use Loctite on metal-to-metal).
~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better
I’ve used loctite on the shock screws into the plastic and it seems to hold better. Might not have been the wisest idea since it rips the shock apart but the 2 shocks I’ve smoked came apart in the middle instead of on either end. The shock cap stayed on the tower and the bottom connector this time when it was ripped apart.
You can do the same if you have a candy blue. I should have taken pics at stages but I didn’t. I did play around on the other buggy body to see what color worked best under the red. For my application I put several light coats of the red on, then I used alclad 2 chrome paint paying attention to body lines to put more where I wanted highlights and less where I wanted it darker. The back was going to fade out a little darker but I like it’s still red. After that I backed the whole thing in pro line black. If you go straight to black it was kinda cool like a black cherry color.
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Thanks for the info. Will use that for the Tundra SCT body that'll go on my Sl4sh chassis.
~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better
The velineon setup I bought for the backslash seems a little sluggish, I figure from the bigger tires. Think I should gear down from 13/54 to 11 or get a different 1/10 setup? I saw the hobbywing max10/3200kv setup is around $100 and so is the arrma 3s BLX system on jennysrc and it flat moves in my typhon. That might be a taboo move like LS swapping a Ford
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Tire glue/CA glue for metal in plastics and Loctite/threadlocker for metal in metal is how I do it if coming loose is a problem.