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Thread: Soldering iron

  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Soldering iron

    What soldering iron are you folks using? Basic requirements?

  2. #2
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Workingstiff View Post
    What soldering iron are you folks using? Basic requirements?
    I was new to soldering last year. Been using a Hakko FX888-D. Absolutely love it!

    Basic requirements would be some research online to learn some of the mistakes some people make, some tips to help you do nice work, a well ventilated area, maybe a little desk fan to keep next to you.

    This is a long article, but WELL worth the read: https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-e...ef-lesson.html


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  3. #3
    RC Racer
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    Thx,not new to soldering. Just time to spend some $$$.

  4. #4
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Workingstiff View Post
    Thx,not new to soldering. Just time to spend some $$$.
    Gotcha. The Hakko is really easy to use once you establish your presets. Basically, it gives you five preset temps that you can establish as you like. Then when you the the machine on, you just select and viola!

    I have used mine mostly for soldering XT-90s and 14-12awg. I really like the Kester 63/37. The guy in that informational article explains why that ratio is superior to the 60/40. Mainly, it had to do with melting points I believe. I think people at any skill/experience level could take a few nuggets of wisdom from the article.

    Like I said, I only started soldering earlier this year, but Iíve managed to do some pretty ok work with the setup.


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  5. #5
    RC Competitor
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    I tried soldering something the other with a cheap iron....admittedly I was trying to put the heat into two wires and it just didnít have the grunt to do it, so I brought one



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  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I also run a hakko fx888d. It is legit. It is digital and doesn't have 5 presets though, it is adjustable via a potentiometer on it

  7. #7
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    I have been using a VIVOHOME 853D for both my RC hobby and electronics repair. Plus the heat gun comes in handy.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJNB678...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    I use a Weller WES51. I think its a 50W iron, and will go to 850į. A great all around station, and wide selection of tips.


  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    I also run a hakko fx888d. It is legit. It is digital and doesn't have 5 presets though, it is adjustable via a potentiometer on it

  10. #10
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    Funny looking little unit, but it sure works! I canít believe how fast it heats up and recovers while youíre working. Using Kester 63/37, Iíve never needed to go any hotter than 650F.


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  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    Funny looking little unit, but it sure works! I canít believe how fast it heats up and recovers while youíre working. Using Kester 63/37, Iíve never needed to go any hotter than 650F.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thatís the station I use as well. Highly recommend


    Somehow builds are never done....

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
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    I use the same one as Nitrobug. Use it at work. Works well and will solder larger wire.

  13. #13
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    I use a cheap setup... for big stuff, I have a 100w iron. For AWG14+ I have an adjustable 60w iron. I got a dedicated rheostat and I use them both through that vs relying on the tiny dial on the adjustable iron. I just set the iron to max and adjust via the rheostat/plug.

    60w: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZ31W3M
    100w: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XK5RXKC
    Rheostat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727VNGPK

    I usually have the rheostat at 7-8 for either iron depending on what I'm doing, then when I have to adjust stuff and put the iron down, I drop it down to 2-3 so it stays warm but not hot hot. Only takes 30 seconds or so for both to come back up to temp once I dial back up to 7.5.

    I had to get the 100w when I wanted to disassemble lipo's. They use a really high temp solder on them and a lot of it, the 60W iron wouldn't touch it. Then I started using the 100W for putting on battery ends as it just works so much quicker without having to hold it on the wire/terminal for very long.

    I could have gotten away with the 100W and the rheostat, but I bought the 60W first. I would like a smaller tip for some things than what the 100W has. It's like wielding a baseball bat.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  14. #14
    RC Racer
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    I like the idea of the rheostat. I have the same type of set up with my heater in my salt aquariums, for redundancy.

  15. #15
    RC Competitor
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    My criteria are getting accurate heat, as quickly as possible, durability, and parts interchangeability/availability.

    For home I’ve got a Hakko FX888 (no D, just a knob ��) It heats up very quickly and accurately and holds temperatures well. Tips are easy to find and well made and the heater cartridge will last forever.

    At the track I’ve got an $8:00 lump from Banggood. It uses Hakko tips and heater cartridges. Temperature control is almost non-existent, but it heats up super quick and pushes enough amperage to keep it hot for ugly, fast work between heats.

  16. #16
    RC poster Zippo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NitroBugg View Post
    I use a Weller WES51. I think its a 50W iron, and will go to 850į. A great all around station, and wide selection of tips.

    NitroBugg I have that same station and loved it until it recently died. I have no idea what is wrong with mine now. I am not a circuit wizzard and don't know what to check. I have tips that are like brand new and sad it is dead. I bought a new pencil pes51 hoping that would fix it but nope so I sent that part back. I am just bummed now.

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