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  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast gandalfnz's Avatar
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    Which type of grease to use in a diff?

    Hi

    I have read pretty much all the threads about oil vs grease on this forum, but still have a question to ask.
    The support people get on these forums are amazing, so I decided to ask.

    I have pulled apart the front diff on my Slash 4x4, only to regret it few mins later, because there was still plenty of grease in the compartment where the planetary gears are, and the grease looked to be in good condition.
    Did this because I got the RC second hand, so just wanted to check in what kind of condition the diff was, and there was a slight greasy spot on the LHS driveshaft, so I was worried the oil has leaked out over time completely.

    To my surprise there was no oil in the front diff (already purchased 30K to replace it with), but there was dark grey, semi fluid grease inside?

    Now, even though I purchased 30k oil, I would still like to fill the diff with the grease it originally came with, mainly because I want to avoid leakages and having to pull it apart again. Basically I want it as maintenance free as possible.
    As mentioned earlier, even the thick grease that was in there, was leaking a little bit, I am thinking it will be even worse if I put oil in.
    The two blue seals look like there are in good condition, so not sure why there was a slight leak.

    Emailed traxxas support and was told to use grease with a 1647 code.

    I was wondering if you guys have used any other types of grease, and which type would have that semi fluidity? Most grease out there I have managed to find is quite tacky.

    1647 is a type of silicone grease.
    Would any other silicon grease work?

    Something like this

    https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/crc-s...B&gclsrc=aw.ds


    Thank you all very much for you support.

  2. #2
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    There have been a lot to say that most any grease will work on the outside but I havenít seen too many about inside. I know some guys run different weight fluids front and rear too. I left whatever was in my xo-1ís when I got them and used this for the ring/pinion.


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  3. #3
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  4. #4
    RC Enthusiast gandalfnz's Avatar
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    Thanks for your reply.

    I got lucas red n tacky for the outside.

    Just had a look, unfortunately I am not able to source 5041 in New Zealand.

    Surely someone has used an off the shelve grease from auto parts store ?

    Would marine grease be too thick?

    Options available to me are

    https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/search?q=grease&sz=60

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier Charger Man's Avatar
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    I use this grease on all of my diffs.
    https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...0301/7070035-P


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  6. #6
    RC Enthusiast gandalfnz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charger Man View Post
    I use this grease on all of my diffs.
    https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...0301/7070035-P


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    Thanks

    you use this on the outside or inside?

    Is it fluidy at least a bit, so that it doesn't get flung to the sides of the carrier?

  7. #7
    RC Enthusiast gandalfnz's Avatar
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    Another question.
    I was watching this diff video assembly, and there are two metal washers that go against the blue seals inside the sun gear housing.

    My slash has only one metal washer?
    Should I install another one as per video, or leave as per traxxas drawing?
    Maybe this is why one of the sides was leaking grease?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OpNEocKyeRs&t=47s

    Please see pic below...sorry, I am not sure why image posting is not working, please click on link below to see pic.

    https://ibb.co/gPmkWRx

    Where I drew the red arrow is the one that is missing on my slash?

    Thanks
    Last edited by gandalfnz; 09-14-2019 at 12:02 AM.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    First, as you probably already know, each diff (front, & rear) is"divided" into two sections - the diff, itself (containing the planet gears), and the diff housing (containing the ring & pinion gears). The diff housing (ring & pinion gears) always use grease, NEVER oil. As for the diff (planet gears), the way Traxxas does it, one contains oil, while the other contains grease. Personally, I don't like this...for all three of my Traxxas vehicles (Slash 4x4, and two Rustler 4x4s), I've taken the diffs completely apart, cleaned them, and filled BOTH diffs with oil (15K front, 10K rear...plus, when I replace the slippers with center diffs, I'll fill those with 15K).

    Of course, I don't use any of my vehicles for general "bashing". While they all get minor off-track use, they're all primarily used on an indoor clay track. If you're using your for general bashing, I'd highly suggest/recommend a higher weight...say, 75-100K front, & 50-75K rear (some even user 500K, it even 1M, though I'll never understand why...unless it's in a crawler). No matter what weight you decide to go with, I don't suggest grease inside the diffs...keep that for the diff housing's ring & pinion gears.

    While you're at it, you might even consider upgrading, from the stock diffs, diff housing, and ring & pinion great, to the XO-1 parts.

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  9. #9
    RC Enthusiast gandalfnz's Avatar
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    Thanks for your reply.

    I mainly use my rc for an occasional run at the park with my boys, therefore I am fine with them being stock and only replacing parts as they break.

    The reason why I am avoiding oil is that I dont want to to have to open the diffs often and refill with oil because they leak.
    Would like them to be as maintenance free as possible, which is why I am looking at getting another slash but a 2wd ver.

    Thqnks

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gandalfnz View Post
    Thanks for your reply.

    I mainly use my rc for an occasional run at the park with my boys, therefore I am fine with them being stock and only replacing parts as they break.

    The reason why I am avoiding oil is that I dont want to to have to open the diffs often and refill with oil because they leak.
    Would like them to be as maintenance free as possible, which is why I am looking at getting another slash but a 2wd ver.

    Thqnks
    Quote Originally Posted by gandalfnz View Post
    The reason why I am avoiding oil is that I dont want to to have to open the diffs often and refill with oil because they leak.
    If your diffs are leaking oil, then "oil vs grease" is the least of your worries/problems. If your diff is leaking oil into the diff housing, then you should probably replace the gasket. If the diff casing is put together properly, using a good gasket, it won't leak oil.

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    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  11. #11
    RC Enthusiast gandalfnz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    If your diffs are leaking oil, then "oil vs grease" is the least of your worries/problems. If your diff is leaking oil into the diff housing, then you should probably replace the gasket. If the diff casing is put together properly, using a good gasket, it won't leak oil.

    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

    It was leaking on the lhs driveshaft, I believe it was passing by the bearing, but both blue seals inside the spider gear housing look good.

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gandalfnz View Post
    It was leaking on the lhs driveshaft, I believe it was passing by the bearing, but both blue seals inside the spider gear housing look good.
    What about O-rings? They're between the diff case & gears. I'd suggest checking all parts, from the outdrives, to the planet gears. Better safe, than sorry...right?

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  13. #13
    RC Enthusiast gandalfnz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    What about O-rings? They're between the diff case & gears. I'd suggest checking all parts, from the outdrives, to the planet gears. Better safe, than sorry...right?

    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

    Can you please tell me, the blue seals inside the diff, are you suppose to push them into the grooves, or let them adjust themselves over time and sit above?
    Looks like if squeezed, they can fit into a groove a the bottom ?

    Does that question make sense?

    Thanks

  14. #14
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    The o-rings fit into grooves in the cup and ring gear.
    The Super Derecho

  15. #15
    RC Racer RC Dad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gandalfnz View Post
    Can you please tell me, the blue seals inside the diff, are you suppose to push them into the grooves, or let them adjust themselves over time and sit above?
    Looks like if squeezed, they can fit into a groove a the bottom ?

    Does that question make sense?

    Thanks
    The o-rings fit in the grooves for sure. One thing often overlooked is the need to use something like associated green slime on the o-rings, prior to assembly. As I understand it, the grease (moly type I think) causes the ring to swell a bit, creating a better seal.

    I would say when building a diff: make sure everything is pristinely cleaned, use a liberal amount of the green slime, wipe off any excess, then install. Iíve built a number of different types of sealed diffs in this way, with good results, little to no seepage.


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  16. #16
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    I use ProTek Premiere Blue. If you don't want to spend that much money ($19), Traxxas makes their own silicone grease (TRA1647) for about $2/tube.

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  17. #17
    RC Enthusiast gandalfnz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    I use ProTek Premiere Blue. If you don't want to spend that much money ($19), Traxxas makes their own silicone grease (TRA1647) for about $2/tube.

    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
    This is the grease I will be picking up tomorrow, to fill the inner diff housing (planet gears).
    I am still decided against oil, and will put it how it was stock (grease).

    Another thing I noticed today, I sprayed some de-greaser on the blue o-rings to clean them, and after a min or so, they expanded so much that I could not fit them into the groove in the casing.

    Might have to give them a wash again with something else, to see if they revert back to original size...

    Live and learn!

    Thanks
    Last edited by gandalfnz; 09-14-2019 at 03:47 PM.

  18. #18
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    I have two questions. With grease on the diff how could you tell it was leaking? What do you mean by "LHS driveshaft"?

    As for the want of a maintenance free hobby grade RC toy, well it is a fallacy. It is like a painter trying to keep his canvas as stock and unpainted.

    As for leaks you are way over concerned. A leaking diff just means it has too much grease or oil in it and with heat it didn't have enough room to expand or the seal is defective and needs replacing. Plus grease is way more likely to leak over oil because of it's "creep" ability with vibration. Also please don't consider any of the "seals" as complete but just to keep out dirt and water but not to hold in the lube. Because these are hobby grade toys that require regular maintenance to function. So you might want to consider a non-hobby grade toy instead.

    FYI - Traxxas support will suggest oil in the both diffs in most cases. And stock is not the best way to keep it for longevity or low maintenance but the worst. The best first upgrade for that is stainless fasteners and bearings. It is the best interest of making them profit if left stock.

    And never "wash" any rubber seals. At best wipe them off with a coffee filter(they are lint free).
    Last edited by zedorda; 09-15-2019 at 01:31 PM.

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Exactly, zedorda. Using grease in the rear diff was more of a time-cutting, and cost-cutting, thing...that's all.

    Gandalfnz, let me ask you a question:

    Ignoring upgrades that are purely about the "bling" factor (such as aluminum A-arms, and 'designer' wheels), and focusing ONLY on upgrade items that are specifically for longevity and/or durability (GTR shocks, XO-1 front/rear diffs, CVD driveshafts, etc)...if Traxxas (and other manufacturers) truly believed that they're vehicles should remain "stock", and that that was the best way of always running that vehicle, then WHY would they even bother to design/manufacturer/sell "upgrade" parts, and associated gear (oil, shock springs, Ti hardware, etc)?

    The truth is, they KNOW the upgrade parts are better, will last longer, and, in doing so, you're more likely to purchase another (expensive) vehicle from them...and upgrade those parts, as well. However, at the same time, they also know there are a few people like yourself, who want to (falsely) believe that everything the manufacturer installed on the vehicle is exactly how it should be, and, if something happens, you should only replace that part with exactly the same part. Either way...sticking with the stock parts/configuration, it upgrading to better-quality/longer-lasting parts...they're going to make money from us.

    But...and, this is the MOST important piece of info...as the consumer, it's in your best interest to take what they gave (or sold to) you, and "make it better". That means doing things like replacing the grease in the rear diff with diff fluid/oil. Your vehicle will run better/smoother, you'll have to replace the oil (as opposed to the grease) less often...and, experiencing how much better your vehicle runs, you'll be happier...and then, exactly as the manufacturers expected, you'll go out, spend a lot more money buying another vehicle, them more money upgrading that vehicle, and then you'll be even happier, because then you'll have two great vehicles, instead of only one "stock" vehicle.

    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  20. #20
    RC Racer RC Dad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Exactly, zedorda. Using grease in the rear diff was more of a time-cutting, and cost-cutting, thing...that's all.

    Gandalfnz, let me ask you a question:

    Ignoring upgrades that are purely about the "bling" factor (such as aluminum A-arms, and 'designer' wheels), and focusing ONLY on upgrade items that are specifically for longevity and/or durability (GTR shocks, XO-1 front/rear diffs, CVD driveshafts, etc)...if Traxxas (and other manufacturers) truly believed that they're vehicles should remain "stock", and that that was the best way of always running that vehicle, then WHY would they even bother to design/manufacturer/sell "upgrade" parts, and associated gear (oil, shock springs, Ti hardware, etc)?

    The truth is, they KNOW the upgrade parts are better, will last longer, and, in doing so, you're more likely to purchase another (expensive) vehicle from them...and upgrade those parts, as well. However, at the same time, they also know there are a few people like yourself, who want to (falsely) believe that everything the manufacturer installed on the vehicle is exactly how it should be, and, if something happens, you should only replace that part with exactly the same part. Either way...sticking with the stock parts/configuration, it upgrading to better-quality/longer-lasting parts...they're going to make money from us.

    But...and, this is the MOST important piece of info...as the consumer, it's in your best interest to take what they gave (or sold to) you, and "make it better". That means doing things like replacing the grease in the rear diff with diff fluid/oil. Your vehicle will run better/smoother, you'll have to replace the oil (as opposed to the grease) less often...and, experiencing how much better your vehicle runs, you'll be happier...and then, exactly as the manufacturers expected, you'll go out, spend a lot more money buying another vehicle, them more money upgrading that vehicle, and then you'll be even happier, because then you'll have two great vehicles, instead of only one "stock" vehicle.

    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
    Amen to that! This is why I now have two Rustlers, among various others... Upgrading these vehicles is just too much fun


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  21. #21
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    Amen to that! This is why I now have two Rustlers, among various others... Upgrading these vehicles is just too much fun


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    And...not just "upgrading", but "converting" them, as well. I've got 2 Rusty 4xs, and a Slash 4x. The Slash will (eventually...already have the body, but can't afford to purchase other things, yet) become a competitive racing Toyota Tundra SCT, complete with full XO-1 drivetrain (driveshafts, F/C/R diffs), and an SSC chassis, and one Rusty will become a 1/8 buggy.

    As for the other Rusty, it's in the final stages of it's "conversion", but there's a bit of a delay, due to a shock tower problem. I purchased the JConcepts Suspension Conversion Kit, only to discover (after entering else was complete) the shock towers are too tall...as in, WAY to tall...to work with the body I selected. Thankfully, I've come up with a "solution", although I'm waiting for those parts to be delivered (this coming Tues, or We'd) to find out if my "solution" actually works. The more I think about it, I should nickname this thing 'Frankie', as it will contain parts from a variety of other Traxxas vehicles.

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  22. #22
    RC Enthusiast gandalfnz's Avatar
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    Hi Guys

    Dont get me wrong, I do enjoy fixing and upgrading these cars as much as driving them, however being a father of two and having a full time job, I find it hard as it is even to find time to go and and have fun with them.

    This is why I say I would like to keep maintenance to minimum and put something in them that will require taking apart less often.

    Anyway, back on topic...

    So I purchased grease 1647 as suggested by traxxas support, but the grease just didnt look nowhere near like the one that was in there from factory stock, it was white in colour (not dark grey) and seemed thicker as well.

    Local hobby shop suggested Tamiya Molybdenum grease, which also didnt look right, so off to the side it goes.

    Finally I put 50k traxxas diff oil in the front diff.

    After I installed the black seal on top and closed it off with the ring gear, then four screws on top, I tried spinning the gears by hand, and the resistance is quite high. You can spin them, but takes quite a bit of force.

    Is this normal? Or did I put too much oil in? I packed it pretty tight.

    Thanks all for your support.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by gandalfnz View Post
    Hi Guys

    Dont get me wrong, I do enjoy fixing and upgrading these cars as much as driving them, however being a father of two and having a full time job, I find it hard as it is even to find time to go and and have fun with them.

    This is why I say I would like to keep maintenance to minimum and put something in them that will require taking apart less often.

    Anyway, back on topic...

    So I purchased grease 1647 as suggested by traxxas support, but the grease just didnt look nowhere near like the one that was in there from factory stock, it was white in colour (not dark grey) and seemed thicker as well.

    Local hobby shop suggested Tamiya Molybdenum grease, which also didnt look right, so off to the side it goes.

    Finally I put 50k traxxas diff oil in the front diff.

    After I installed the black seal on top and closed it off with the ring gear, then four screws on top, I tried spinning the gears by hand, and the resistance is quite high. You can spin them, but takes quite a bit of force.

    Is this normal? Or did I put too much oil in? I packed it pretty tight.

    Thanks all for your support.
    Thatís how mine are with the 50k, it is a thick oil.


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  24. #24
    RC Enthusiast gandalfnz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    I have two questions. With grease on the diff how could you tell it was leaking? What do you mean by "LHS driveshaft"?

    As for the want of a maintenance free hobby grade RC toy, well it is a fallacy. It is like a painter trying to keep his canvas as stock and unpainted.

    As for leaks you are way over concerned. A leaking diff just means it has too much grease or oil in it and with heat it didn't have enough room to expand or the seal is defective and needs replacing. Plus grease is way more likely to leak over oil because of it's "creep" ability with vibration. Also please don't consider any of the "seals" as complete but just to keep out dirt and water but not to hold in the lube. Because these are hobby grade toys that require regular maintenance to function. So you might want to consider a non-hobby grade toy instead.

    FYI - Traxxas support will suggest oil in the both diffs in most cases. And stock is not the best way to keep it for longevity or low maintenance but the worst. The best first upgrade for that is stainless fasteners and bearings. It is the best interest of making them profit if left stock.

    And never "wash" any rubber seals. At best wipe them off with a coffee filter(they are lint free).

    Thanks for the tips.

    There was a leak, greasy spot and dust always collecting on the left hand side driveshaft, diff end side.

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier Charger Man's Avatar
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    Which type of grease to use in a diff?

    The grease from the factory was likely white when it was new. The grease turning blackish grey is normal. Itís from the internal gears wearing ever so slightly. They are black when new and as they wear it will turn whatever grease or clear diff fluid blackish grey. Even the silicone shock fluid in the shocks. Itís just like the oil in the engine of your car or truck. When new itís a clean golden color, when used itís a dark almost black. The 50k diff fluid In the front should feel stiffer. If you put too much in it should come out of one of the 4 screw holes on the ring gear when tightening the others. I run 60k diff fluid in the front of mine and 30k diff fluid in the rear. Hope this helps.


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    Last edited by Charger Man; 09-17-2019 at 10:17 AM.
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  26. #26
    RC Enthusiast gandalfnz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charger Man View Post
    The grease from the factory was likely white when it was new. The grease turning blackish grey is normal. It’s from the internal gears wearing ever so slightly. They are black when new and as they wear it will turn whatever grease or clear diff fluid blackish grey. Even the silicone shock fluid in the shocks. It’s just like the oil in the engine of your car or truck. When new it’s a clean golden color, when used it’s a dark almost black. The 50k diff fluid In the front should feel stiffer. If you put too much in it should come out of one of the 4 screw holes on the ring gear when tightening the others. I run 60k diff fluid in the front of mine and 30k diff fluid in the rear. Hope this helps.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I see, can it really be that much dark, its pretty much black, from just gears breaking in?

    Oh, well, I am happy the way it is now, as long as it doesn't start seeping out once we take the car out.

    Just waiting for Lucas Red n Tacky grease to put onto ring gear and we can close her up and test.

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier Charger Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gandalfnz View Post
    I see, can it really be that much dark, its pretty much black, from just gears breaking in?

    Oh, well, I am happy the way it is now, as long as it doesn't start seeping out once we take the car out.

    Just waiting for Lucas Red n Tacky grease to put onto ring gear and we can close her up and test.
    Yup and itís nothing to worry about. Sounds like your getting really close. Hope it goes well and lasts a while.


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  28. #28
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    I run 80K in my rear and 30K in the front.

  29. #29
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gandalfnz View Post
    Thanks for the tips.

    There was a leak, greasy spot and dust always collecting on the left hand side driveshaft, diff end side.
    Ahh ok so it was coming from the output shaft not near the ring gear that makes more sense thanks.

  30. #30
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    I skipped the blue o rings. Upgraded to the LEM o rings. No leaks since.


    Use diff oil in the diffs and a light coating red and tacky on the ring and pinion

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  31. #31
    RC Qualifier Charger Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    I skipped the blue o rings. Upgraded to the LEM o rings. No leaks since.


    Use diff oil in the diffs and a light coating red and tacky on the ring and pinion

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    I would love to get my hands on some of those LEM o-rings but I canít seam to find any online Where did you get yours and how long ago?


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  32. #32
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charger Man View Post
    I would love to get my hands on some of those LEM o-rings but I canít seam to find any online Where did you get yours and how long ago?


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    Was gonna ask the same thing...til I saw your post.

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  33. #33
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Are these about the same thing?

    https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/31958200

  34. #34
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    The Leading Edge Machine facebook page is all that is left of LEM that I can find with the latest post being from April 6, 2018.

    https://www.facebook.com/LeadingEdgeMachining/

  35. #35
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NitroBugg View Post
    I can't find exact dimensions of the stock o-rings but my best guess is 5mm ID x 8mm OD x 1.5mm thick or 6mm ID x 8mm OD x 1mm thick. The output shafts are 6mm at the o-ring so the 5mm ID might fit more snug for a tighter seal than the 6mm ID ones. But who knows what the material LEM used was.

    Not sure if they are the same but LEM o-rings look more like these.

    https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/47416276
    Last edited by zedorda; 09-18-2019 at 06:00 PM.

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    These as well:
    https://www.theoringstore.com/index....ducts_id=24524

    Read this thread for some size specs for the LEM O-rings:
    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...M-Diff-O-Rings

    Good luck!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

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