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  1. #1
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    Cool Jato off road build

    jato by grizzly03

    I finally got to run my jato. These trucks are stupid fast! I can't stop laughing! Talk about a missile on wheels! With the setup "as it is" any quick throttle and it just wheelies. Needs some work to get it to handle better. The suspension is way to soft for offroad. Front compresses way to easy and acts like a lawn dart. Looks good with the bigger rear tires but need to go smaller/lighter. Any wheel spin and it overpowers the light chassis with a gyro affect. Going with the same tires as the front, should fix that. Needs help in braking. Replaced stock servo with a 2070 and it helped but not enough. Anybody know of a mod or aftermarket setup that would help? I know the oversized offroad tires don't help. Also is there anyway to get the rear toe lower than the Traxxas 3-degree toe bar? I found RLChobbies has an anti squat block that says 2.8 degrees and 1/2 degree of toe in, I'm thinking of giving it a try or make my own toe bar.
    This is my first jato. I have always worked on t-maxx and revo platforms. Any ideas or comments are welcome.

  2. #2
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    I thought I saw you mention an Upcoming Jato off-road build in another thread. Looking good so far.
    To get more toe in, couldn’t you just use traxxas toe ink ends but make your own links with a piece of threaded rod of a shorter length?

  3. #3
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    Thanks Dakratfink. Unfortunately the Jato doesn't use toe links. It only has camber links. The rear toe is fixed based on how the suspension pins are mounted. The joys of modding,LOL. I always seem to want a part I cannot find.

  4. #4
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    I got some hard anno'd revo shocks on my eJato with trencher 3.8's. I run it on 3S with a 3200kv motor and the hot racing steel single speed conversion. I don't have it geared stupid high as I like to be able to run in the grass and at the skate parks with it without overheating.

    With the socks, I have vdk in them with holes drilled to 1/16" and 80wt oil and rc raven jato springs. I also used some dubro super hd ends on the rear shocks to raise it up a bit so now it almost sits level when I'm not on the throttle. Gets around pretty good. I'm never on dirt though, so grip isn't a huge issue. Spins a lot in the grass. I also have the traxxas wheelie bar on it, but I cut it to be about 1" shorter so it didn't have so much leverage when cartwheeling to rip it off. I also have a brace for the rear tower as they like to snap if you land on the roof too hard... which I seem to do a lot.



    I had it as nitro with a 2.5R in it for a long time. Then it sat on the shelf and didn't get driven much. When I started running electric, I decided to convert it over and it made it fun again.

    Didn't really need to wrap the rear tires as they don't balloon too bad. I have an old set of 12mm wheels I had on there from my 4pede as I converted it to 17mm.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  5. #5
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    Looks pretty cool. To keep it down though you could run an on board ez start system. All you need is an ez start 1. A suitable 2s lipo. A xl5 esc and a 3 channel controller. Plug the lipo into the esc plug esc into channel 3 and the power wires to the ez start. Tape/glue down the starter button to where its always on and then activate channel 3 to start remotely. That's what I'm working on with mine

  6. #6
    Traxxas Marshal
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    Looks great with those tires, that's for sure!
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the comments. I always liked the off-road jato look.
    Update:
    Replaced the Picco carb with a losi carb, couldn't get the linkage to work with the picco carb (picco had a longer pull). This losi 3.4 carb really is a drop-in upgrade for the stock carb.(Should be same with any Traxxas vehicle that uses the snap on ball link). Way easier than taking a carb and turning it down on a lathe.
    Haven't given up on these rear tires yet! Going to play around with suspension and see if I can get them to work. Seems to bounce around a lot and not act "plush". Going to order the RLC block and Hard-anodized GTR shocks. I wish I had a sandpit to run it in, I think it would be a perfect home to bash this guy!

  8. #8
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Thinner oil in the shocks may help with the bouncing. I went too stiff on it and my stampede, made them really bouncy. Before drilling out the vdk, I was in no-mans land trying to figure out what would work. Got down to 30wt oil and it was still bouncy. The vdk pistons have very small holes. That's when I drilled them out to 1/16" and threw in some 80wt. Not it's pretty plush on compression, but rebounds without much lag.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  9. #9
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    I'm actually not getting any dampening in the rear stock shocks. Acts like a pogo stick. I've increased to 45wt and it helps. I'm also trying to figure out a setup for the GTR shocks when I get them. Would you know about how much of a change each piston size would make in shock oil weight?(going from stock pistons to GTR pistons). I was going to try without getting the VDK. The kit works good for the cantilever shock setups. I didn't know how well it would work with a standard shock setup. I remember jumping up to 70wt in my summit with the VDK.
    The stock jato pistons are 1.3mm and 1.4mm. The GTR pistons are .95mm,1mm, and 1.10mm. I only have 30,35,40,45, and 70wt oil. I was thinking of starting at either 35wt or 40wt with the 1mm pistons.
    Winter is coming quick here in NY, nitro season is almost done.

  10. #10
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    I'm actually not getting any dampening in the rear stock shocks. Acts like a pogo stick. I've increased to 45wt and it helps. I'm also trying to figure out a setup for the GTR shocks when I get them. Would you know about how much of a change each piston size would make in shock oil weight?(going from stock pistons to GTR pistons). I was going to try without getting the VDK. The kit works good for the cantilever shock setups. I didn't know how well it would work with a standard shock setup. I remember jumping up to 70wt in my summit with the VDK.
    The stock jato pistons are 1.3mm and 1.4mm. The GTR pistons are .95mm,1mm, and 1.10mm. I only have 30,35,40,45, and 70wt oil. I was thinking of starting at either 35wt or 40wt with the 1mm pistons.
    Winter is coming quick here in NY, nitro season is almost done.
    I can't recall what I ran before with standard revo shocks or what pistons I had in it at the time. I had the hard anno'd shocks on there for a while and would just dump the oil and add heavier/lighter to work. Never really looked to see what pistons were there until I installed the vdk.

    The 1/16" hole is quite large compared to the #1 vdk holes (1.1mm). I think 1/16" is about 1.6mm according to google and I needed 70-80wt to calm it down after drilling them out. I think I went down to 70wt after installing the rcraven dual rate springs instead of the traxxas blue/red springs. Made for a bit more plush feel.
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 10-14-2019 at 05:17 PM.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  11. #11
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    How are the RCRaven springs? I looked at their springs and they don't mention any kind of spring tension. Would they be better suited for a heavier or lighter vehicle? I'm running the stock white springs(green/pink). I got the front end working good w/the heavier oil. It's the back end that likes to kick up when I hit a big bump. It reminds me of my Tamiya Grasshopper I had when I was a kid.

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