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  1. #1
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    Stampede Issues - Blinking Green Light

    Hi all,

    I'm new to non-junk RC and am the proud owner of two Stampedes. One I bought off Craigslist for $100 (one of the earlier models--with the German flag-looking body). This one works great and my kid is having a blast with it.

    The one I'm struggling with was an as-is hand-me-down I've been piecing together. I went to my local hobby store and purchased a few things I was told to purchase (soldering kit, deans connectors, new receiver, etc). I've final got power going to the Stampede. Unfortunately, I'm only able to get the steering to work--with no action on the throttle. The light on my XL-5 is blinking green. I've done the programming and the calibration, but I'm still stuck.

    After spending a weekend going through the forums I've started to wonder if there might be some newbie comparability issue I'm not aware of. For instance, many people on here recommend trimming the throttle--but my transmitter (Traxxas TQ 2.4GHz) doesn't even have a throttle trim.

    So here's what I'm working with:

    2WD Stampede, circa 2015
    XL-5 ESC (set to Lipo mode)
    Lipo Battery Pack (50c, 7.4v, 5200 mAh)
    Traxxas TQ 2.4Ghz
    Traxxas TQ receiver

    It's also worth nothing that I've never seen the motor in action--so it's entirely possible that it's shot...but I wanted to check all the angles before dropping more money into this beast.

    Thanks in advance. Hoping to be a regular on here once I get up and running with Stampede #2.

    -Sam

  2. #2
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    Blinking green is usually no radio/recvr link or calibration issues.
    Did you bind the new receiver to the radio?
    If not, bind it, then calibrate again.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by fortunespoonz View Post
    Blinking green is usually no radio/recvr link or calibration issues.
    Did you bind the new receiver to the radio?
    If not, bind it, then calibrate again.
    Thanks for responding! Yes, I linked the receiver and transmitter. I'm able to make the steering work, but there's no response on the throttle. Did the calibration a number of times, but never any motor activity--just steering. Any other ideas? If there is something wrong with the motor, how would I know? Are there tests?

    Thanks,

    -Sam

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum, I like your name! Are you sure your esc plug is in the #2 slot? IIRCC there are two #1s...maybe double check that the steering plug goes into the furthest #1 slot on the receiver and the esc goes into the third slot (skipping the one next to the steering slot) which is actually #2.

    I have had a few rxs go bad...

    Good luck and welcome again!
    MTFBWY

  5. #5
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    I’m glad you’re getting help even IF you haven’t isolated the problem yet.
    When you ask if there are trays, I think the troubleshooting mthids you are already
    Following are about the best course of action that I know.
    If you DO isolate the problem to the motor itself, that might not be such a back thing.
    Jenny’s RC has the titan 12T for like $15.
    I know you aren’t looking to spend more, but that isn’t too bad it it is the problem .
    https://jennysrc.com/collections/sku...er-jam-36064-2

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the welcome! Yes, I've played around with the slot configuration on the ESC. Tried both #1 slots for the steering. It's kind of a long shot, but there's one other thing it might be (if not a bad motor)...

    I didn't do the best soldering job on the ESC side of the battery cable--resulting in my Deans attachment not fully being able to plug into the battery. I initially thought this wouldn't be an issue (as evident by the fact that the steering is working), but then I started to think how some electronics are impacted by things not being plugged in all the way (ex: headphones might only partially work if not fully plugged in). Perhaps my motor isn't getting juice due to the deans not connecting all the way. I was thinking about switching to Ultras.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sampeder View Post
    Thanks for the welcome! Yes, I've played around with the slot configuration on the ESC. Tried both #1 slots for the steering. It's kind of a long shot, but there's one other thing it might be (if not a bad motor)...

    I didn't do the best soldering job on the ESC side of the battery cable--resulting in my Deans attachment not fully being able to plug into the battery. I initially thought this wouldn't be an issue (as evident by the fact that the steering is working), but then I started to think how some electronics are impacted by things not being plugged in all the way (ex: headphones might only partially work if not fully plugged in). Perhaps my motor isn't getting juice due to the deans not connecting all the way. I was thinking about switching to Ultras.
    It’s worth a shot

  8. #8
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    I'm now realizing that this hand-me-down Stampede I'm working on came with an extra motor. However, the extra--which has the same dimensions, as best I can tell--appears to be made for airplanes (https://www.amainhobbies.com/great-p...mg0710/p647240)

    Does anyone have some knowledge they can share with me on whether or not this will work in my 2WD Stampede? I wonder if the guy who gave the Stampede to me may have included it on accident.

  9. #9
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    If it is blinking green it hasn't even sent power to the motor yet. I read you did bind the Rx and Tx but when you did the "calibration" was it done with the ESC and do you mean you set the endpoints when you say "calibration"? If so I believe something didn't go right somewhere during that process. I have had it happen to me a few time with one of my setups. I had to go through the whole endpoint reset 4 times before it would take. Try your best to be in a low interference area if you can.

  10. #10
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    You can take the pos. and the neg. from the motor and touch them to the same on a battery to see if the motor turns, you won't fry anything and you'll be able to rule out if it's a bad motor or not.
    Make sure your all of your hand me down components are compatible, then try a factory reset with the tx and then rebind everything.
    https://traxxas.com/support/Traxxas-...tibility-Guide
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMrKkt0BHxA
    I'm with Zedorda on this, something might of been missed, take your time and try the motor then reset the tx and check compatibilty and recalibrate.

  11. #11
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    Thank you for the great responses. Especially Rain Dawg's bit on testing the motor. I was a little startled by the spark that occurred, but sure enough--the motor started running! Unfortunately, I'm still having trouble with the calibration part. After resetting the transmitter to factory settings I re-linked it with the receiver. I then tried several times to calibrate (after first setting it to the LiPo-low-voltage detection). The calibration instructions ask to:

    1. first turn on the transmitter (check)
    2. then hold down the ESC power/set button until it turns red (check)
    3. release the ESC power/set button (check)
    4. full throttle when the ESC light blinks once (IT NEVER BLINKS)

    The only way I can get it to blink is by continuing to hold down the ESC button--but this only seems to make the ESC go through the motions (blinks once, blinks twice, blinks again--and then repeats...all without any transmitter input).

    Any additional input would be appreciated!

    Thanks again,

    -Sam(peder)

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sampeder View Post
    Thank you for the great responses. Especially Rain Dawg's bit on testing the motor. I was a little startled by the spark that occurred, but sure enough--the motor started running! Unfortunately, I'm still having trouble with the calibration part. After resetting the transmitter to factory settings I re-linked it with the receiver. I then tried several times to calibrate (after first setting it to the LiPo-low-voltage detection). The calibration instructions ask to:

    1. first turn on the transmitter (check)
    2. then hold down the ESC power/set button until it turns red (check)
    3. release the ESC power/set button (check)
    4. full throttle when the ESC light blinks once (IT NEVER BLINKS)

    The only way I can get it to blink is by continuing to hold down the ESC button--but this only seems to make the ESC go through the motions (blinks once, blinks twice, blinks again--and then repeats...all without any transmitter input).

    Any additional input would be appreciated!

    Thanks again,

    -Sam(peder)
    Hope some one chimes in on the red light blinking I don't remember what it is but after you get it set wait awhile before trying to operate anything I gave up on one I had bought . 30 minutes later pulled the trigger an everything worked it seemed it took time for everything to sync
    Hope this helps

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sampeder View Post
    Thank you for the great responses. Especially Rain Dawg's bit on testing the motor. I was a little startled by the spark that occurred, but sure enough--the motor started running! Unfortunately, I'm still having trouble with the calibration part. After resetting the transmitter to factory settings I re-linked it with the receiver. I then tried several times to calibrate (after first setting it to the LiPo-low-voltage detection). The calibration instructions ask to:

    1. first turn on the transmitter (check)
    2. then hold down the ESC power/set button until it turns red (check)
    3. release the ESC power/set button (check)
    4. full throttle when the ESC light blinks once (IT NEVER BLINKS)

    The only way I can get it to blink is by continuing to hold down the ESC button--but this only seems to make the ESC go through the motions (blinks once, blinks twice, blinks again--and then repeats...all without any transmitter input).

    Any additional input would be appreciated!

    Thanks again,

    -Sam(peder)
    It almost sounds like your esc is going between nimh and lipo mode and through the different power settings, sport, race and 50% but not recalibrating. I would take it in to your lhs and have them take a look and see if it's something wrong with the esc or you'll have to wait until Monday to contact Traxxas support.
    Hopefully it's just something basic that is an easy fix.

  14. #14
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    I hope this works out and gets sorted for you soon.
    I have recently acquired a “Frankenstein” Stampede from a local friend I traded some batteries for. Anyway, mine has an XL5 esc with an old school 27mhz crystal type radio.
    Anyway my esc was not responding and acting up when I first tried to test run the truck. I had to switch t over to nihm mode and when I plugged it back in I had to do it again. After a few cycles of this it is finally staying in the right mode when I turn it on.
    I don’t know if any of this is helpful other than an anecdote that sometime these electronics can be a little finicky

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dakratfink View Post
    I hope this works out and gets sorted for you soon.
    I have recently acquired a “Frankenstein” Stampede from a local friend I traded some batteries for. Anyway, mine has an XL5 esc with an old school 27mhz crystal type radio.
    Anyway my esc was not responding and acting up when I first tried to test run the truck. I had to switch t over to nihm mode and when I plugged it back in I had to do it again. After a few cycles of this it is finally staying in the right mode when I turn it on.
    I don’t know if any of this is helpful other than an anecdote that sometime these electronics can be a little finicky
    Yours was very familiar as what mine was doing I hope he gets his figured out
    One thing is take time doing the settings

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

  16. #16
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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  17. #17
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    I finally figured it out!!! Turns out the issue was not one I've read about in the many forums (but I very-much appreciate all of the valuable input I've received here).

    I was just about to scrap the whole thing when my eye caught something pretty small (yet very impacting). The three-colored wires coming out of the ESC (I think red, black and white) are combined into a little plastic compartment that plug into the receiver. Well, it turned out that the white wire was slightly out of its socket--resulting in this wire not coming into contact with the receiver (the end of this wire was a little bent out of shape as well). It took a little work, but I was able to re-shape the end of this wire--and push it into the compartment enough so that it would stay in there and do its job. After crossing the fingers and saying a little prayer: Poof, I was finally able to complete the ESC calibration and get the throttle to go!!!

    This puppy is fast! Seems like I might need a wheelie bar. My son's Stampede is running on NiMH-powered Stinger (mine is LiPO-powered Titan).

    Thanks again for all of your help. While I might have lost some hair getting this Stampede up and running, I have a feeling that my journey is only just beginning.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sampeder View Post
    I finally figured it out!!! Turns out the issue was not one I've read about in the many forums (but I very-much appreciate all of the valuable input I've received here).

    I was just about to scrap the whole thing when my eye caught something pretty small (yet very impacting). The three-colored wires coming out of the ESC (I think red, black and white) are combined into a little plastic compartment that plug into the receiver. Well, it turned out that the white wire was slightly out of its socket--resulting in this wire not coming into contact with the receiver (the end of this wire was a little bent out of shape as well). It took a little work, but I was able to re-shape the end of this wire--and push it into the compartment enough so that it would stay in there and do its job. After crossing the fingers and saying a little prayer: Poof, I was finally able to complete the ESC calibration and get the throttle to go!!!

    This puppy is fast! Seems like I might need a wheelie bar. My son's Stampede is running on NiMH-powered Stinger (mine is LiPO-powered Titan).

    Thanks again for all of your help. While I might have lost some hair getting this Stampede up and running, I have a feeling that my journey is only just beginning.
    Glad you got it going keep having fun

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

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