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  1. #1
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    Traxxas Maxx shocks on Slash

    I know itís pretty early and that many people donít have the new Maxx yet, but I was wondering if anyone knows if the shocks on the new Maxx could be put on a slash. I ask this because I see that many people put 1/8 buggy shocks on their slashes and maybe the new Maxx shocks could be comparable to that setup. I also love the shocks on my xmaxx and Iíd live to have a smaller version of them on my slash.

  2. #2
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    A smaller version that fit would be gtr’s.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    You would have to make an extension on the shock towers to allow for the extra length:

    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    I wonder what the extended length (eye-to-eye) of the GT-Maxx is.

    I have extensions on my shock towers to run 1/8th Vorza shocks, but it still may not be enough for the GT-Maxx.




    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...=1#post6308516
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Found it:

    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  6. #6
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    I guess I might try it if the price isn’t too too steep

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    5” shock is huge for the Slash!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  8. #8
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    Yes, they are too big, I think that 100mm would be maximum.


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  9. #9
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    5” shock is huge for the Slash!
    Eye to eye? Where did you glean that info from? That is perfect for a 1/7 scale scratch build I have going now and front shocks are my gremlin.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    129.2mm = 5.09in.

    The picture I posted that shows the shock eye-to-eye was from the Maxx's manual (page 23):

    https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...-OM-EN-R00.pdf

    Good luck on your build and post up when you can (if possible on this Traxxas website)!
    Last edited by Squeegie; 10-16-2019 at 10:44 AM.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  11. #11
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    You could also put a rear shock tower on the front and use rear shocks to get more travel upfront

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
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    Oh sweet Iím glad others have the same thought I do!! Where can we find these GT maxx shocks?


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  13. #13
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    You could also put a rear shock tower on the front and use rear shocks to get more travel upfront

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
    To an extent, his comment pertains to running SC tires, not something like 2.8s or a way larger diameter where chassis slap doesn't exist. Rear tower and rear shocks? How much taller is the rear mount up front vs the front mount? What does it cycle for wheel travel? We are looking for droop, not extra compression bump. Stock front suspension going long travel has many gremlins. 1) Stock arms. If you pull the front shock(s), how much more travel is potentially there in droop, the tire dropping away like off a jump, rotating the tires and steering left to right without binding? 2) Stock U joint axles will get you about 40 degrees of angularity before they have their life span dramatically reduced. CVDs get less. 3) Tie rod ends are good for about 30 degrees. When you start looking at the angles and lengths of stuff, you'll soon see that a longer arm is required to make this work. 3) Not sure what is out there for the 4x Slash, but your next gremlin is bump steer, the wheels toe in/out as the suspension cycles. No bueno. Full circle now, Maxx shocks will require more custom fabrication than you might think. The concept idea is great, but pulling it off will be an entirely different story.

  14. #14
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    The closest thing I can think of to increase travel on the cheap is running those +10mm off set 17mm hexes.

    Long arms will also require longer steering turnbuckles, front and rear camber links, not to mention at lest one half of the four drive shafts to maintain overlap, or longer dogbonez/outdrive cups, but then that puts more stress on the diffs and all the upstream driveline parts. At some point it makes more sense to just get an 1/8 Truggy

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Yeah, reading the op, its more about working than going long travel. 3-3/4" long arms can use Jato tie rods and turnbuckles so you don't have to reinvent the wheel. As for the shocks, end use would dictate that.

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