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Thread: Motor Failure

  1. #1
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    Motor Failure

    Hello everyone,

    I purchased an E-Revo 2.0 a few days ago. I ran it twice before the motor failed. The vehicle is box stock, and I was using 3S/5000mah batteries. Initially, it stripped a spur gear, and when I went to replace it I noticed both the motor mount and pinion gear were loose. I also noticed the motor shaft would no longer spin freely. It was seized up pretty good. The spur gear stripped when I was using the self-righting feature on hard pack dirt.

    The pinion was sliding on the motor shaft, and the motor itself was loose enough to wiggle back and fourth. Overall Iím happy with the purchase and customer service. Traxxas is sending me a new motor since the original failed so quickly. I did have to pay to ship the motor out though.

    My questions are, did I do something wrong? And how do I prevent something like this from happening again? And did something else cause the motor to fail?

    The chassis rolls nicely, and I feel no binding anywhere. I donít have much electric experience, but I have a Nitro Revo Iíve been running for about 5 years now. Pictures below are of the motor after the failure.




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  2. #2
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Self righting is cool, but it tends to be hard on stuff. Usually diffs, axles and the esc moreso than anything else.

    I'm guessing your issue was a fluke though.
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    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    I think a few other people have had their motor die prematurely, but it isn't a wide spread thing. If you weren't running it over voltage, you weren't, or your motor temps weren't too high, then you didn't do anything wrong. Binding bearings are probably a non factor, you confirmed that, just bad luck. It happens.

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    Thank you for the replies. It seems heat management is critical with electric r/cís. With my Nitro I would make sure it was tuned properly, and give it a cooling period between tanks.

    What are the suggestions for electric? I live in the desert, so it will see loose and hard pack dirt a lot. Thereís also an outdoor dirt track here I want to try. Is there a certain amount of run time before I should allow a cool down period? What if Iím doing high speed runs?


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    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    While I don't run in hot environments a lot, I do run in grass and high humidity quite a bit. The grass makes the trucks suffer and the humidity makes me suffer. If it's 90F+ outside, I'm not outside.

    I gear my trucks and have fans so that I don't have to cool down. With the right motor/esc, gearing, fans and tires, you should be able to do the same.

    I do the same with my nitro's, no cool down (except during break-in). I run until I break something or run out of fuel, but I also gear and tune accordingly. With electric, you can't tune it richer to cool it... but you can add fans to move the heat away.

    Then again, if it's 110F+ outside... not sure what you can do.
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    While I don't run in hot environments a lot, I do run in grass and high humidity quite a bit. The grass makes the trucks suffer and the humidity makes me suffer. If it's 90F+ outside, I'm not outside.

    I gear my trucks and have fans so that I don't have to cool down. With the right motor/esc, gearing, fans and tires, you should be able to do the same.

    I do the same with my nitro's, no cool down (except during break-in). I run until I break something or run out of fuel, but I also gear and tune accordingly. With electric, you can't tune it richer to cool it... but you can add fans to move the heat away.

    Then again, if it's 110F+ outside... not sure what you can do.
    Thanks for the advice. If itís 90-110F outside, I wonít be outside either lol. The Yeah Racing fans seem to be popular, but it seems people are breaking fan blades when theyíre out bashing, so Iím unsure of which route to take. I did purchase a temp gun, so I can start tracking the temps on the motor though.


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    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    I run the Yeah Racing fan heat sink and the R1 fans. I was thoroughly surprised at how much more air they move compared to the Yeah Racing fans. Work well for my set up. I live in southern AZ where its always hot lol.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    I run the Yeah Racing fan heat sink and the R1 fans. I was thoroughly surprised at how much more air they move compared to the Yeah Racing fans. Work well for my set up. I live in southern AZ where its always hot lol.
    Thanks for the response. Would you say that youíre pretty hard on your Revo? It seems like some rough bashing sessions result in broken fan blades. Mostly when you land on your lid lol. The setup youíre running seems to be solid from the bit of reading Iíve done. How has it held up?


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    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RV88 View Post
    Thanks for the response. Would you say that youíre pretty hard on your Revo? It seems like some rough bashing sessions result in broken fan blades. Mostly when you land on your lid lol. The setup youíre running seems to be solid from the bit of reading Iíve done. How has it held up?


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    I used to go through a lot of fans. Having a fan mounted flat and not fully supported on the back causes the frame to flex/crack, then the blades hit the sides of the frame. A lot of guys use the YR fans on the arrma trucks and send them to the moon. The truck may drive away from a 20 foot drop onto concrete, but the little plastic fan housing doesn't. Hard nose landings take out fans too as the frame flexes again, then the fan hits the frame and destroys itself.

    If I were to buy the YH motor fan:
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yeah-ra...0261bk/p491090

    I'd get a couple 30mm aluminum framed fans for it:
    https://www.rcjuice.com/hobbystar-tu...x30mm-red.html

    I use those fans wherever I can and they seem to hold up really well while pushing a lot of air, even at 6V.

    I have one on my MMX esc on my savage:


    Made a little mount for one to point at the motor on the savage:


    Also modified a castle frame to hold one for my ERBEv2:


    You can't really see it, but it's in there. I had to modify the castle frame to fit it. It should be a 7mm fan, then the housing would touch the motor, but it's a 10mm and the housing basically just keeps rocks out and is something to ziptie to press the fan against the motor.

    On my outcast, I have a cheap $10 HW heatsink with a 40mm or 50mm fan. It holds up pretty good, but I always keep spare fans on hand for all my esc's and motors.
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 10-15-2019 at 10:35 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    I used to go through a lot of fans. Having a fan mounted flat and not fully supported on the back causes the frame to flex/crack, then the blades hit the sides of the frame. A lot of guys use the YR fans on the arrma trucks and send them to the moon. The truck may drive away from a 20 foot drop onto concrete, but the little plastic fan housing doesn't. Hard nose landings take out fans too as the frame flexes again, then the fan hits the frame and destroys itself.

    If I were to buy the YH motor fan:
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yeah-ra...0261bk/p491090

    I'd get a couple 30mm aluminum framed fans for it:
    https://www.rcjuice.com/hobbystar-tu...x30mm-red.html

    I use those fans wherever I can and they seem to hold up really well while pushing a lot of air, even at 6V.


    On my outcast, I have a cheap $10 HW heatsink with a 40mm or 50mm fan. It holds up pretty good, but I always keep spare fans on hand for all my esc's and motors.
    Awesome. Thanks for the explanation and photos. I havenít looked yet, but do they sell the Yeah Racing mount as a stand-alone, so I could get two of the 30mm aluminum fans mounted on there? The kit in the link you posted has the two plastic housed fans, so Iím wondering if I could get just the mount, and buy the aluminum fans separately.

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    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RV88 View Post
    Awesome. Thanks for the explanation and photos. I haven’t looked yet, but do they sell the Yeah Racing mount as a stand-alone, so I could get two of the 30mm aluminum fans mounted on there? The kit in the link you posted has the two plastic housed fans, so I’m wondering if I could get just the mount, and buy the aluminum fans separately.
    Yep, part# YA-0600BK instead of YA-0261BK:
    https://www.amazon.com/Yeah-Racing-A.../dp/B07VB71BVT
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Yep, part# YA-0600BK instead of YA-0261BK:
    https://www.amazon.com/Yeah-Racing-A.../dp/B07VB71BVT
    Sweet! Thanks for the link. I see the aluminum fans are out of stock right now. Iím gonna look around and see if I can find them on another site.


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    I found these on Amain Hobbies. Theyíre 30x30, so I assume theyíll work with the mount. I may buy one for now and see if itís enough.

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yeah-ra...SABEgKgb_D_BwE



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    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    I dont want to take anything away from the guys who actually run the yeah racing fans, from what I've read these yeah racing fans are more durable and move more air than the standard ones. Like I said, i haven't used either, might be better off listening to the guys that have. Just throwing another option out there as I've heard some complaints of the standard fans not being to durable for some users.
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yeah-ra...0576bu/p995585

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    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Ill throw my personal experience in. I originally bought the Yeah Racing Fan and heat sink kit with the heat sink and the plastic fans:

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yeah-ra...0261bk/p491090

    I broke a fan on a crash and wanted to upgrade, so then ordered two of the aluminum housed fans and ran those with the original Yeah Racing heatsink:

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yeah-ra...SABEgKgb_D_BwE

    Never broke one, but they were always louder then I wanted and another member on here said he saw a huge improvement in air flow when he went to the R1 fans. So I now run the Yeah Racing heat sink and the R1 fans. They are plastic housings and such but no issues yet. To also be clear. I street race my truck...no big air jumps or huge landings. Have had a few cartwheels at close to 60 mph and ended up on my lid...no issues yet. My 2 cents would be to get the heat sink alone that Olds recommend and either the the aluminum housed fans I linked to or the R1s.

    https://r1wurks.com/collections/cool...br-cooling-fan

    Those are 30x30x15...taller then the Yeah Racing fans and move a lot more air.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I dont want to take anything away from the guys who actually run the yeah racing fans, from what I've read these yeah racing fans are more durable and move more air than the standard ones. Like I said, i haven't used either, might be better off listening to the guys that have. Just throwing another option out there as I've heard some complaints of the standard fans not being to durable for some users.
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yeah-ra...0576bu/p995585

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    It seems aluminum is definitely the way to go. I think Iíll order the Yeah Racing heat sink, and one aluminum fan initially to see how it holds up.


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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    Ill throw my personal experience in. I originally bought the Yeah Racing Fan and heat sink kit with the heat sink and the plastic fans:

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yeah-ra...0261bk/p491090

    I broke a fan on a crash and wanted to upgrade, so then ordered two of the aluminum housed fans and ran those with the original Yeah Racing heatsink:

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yeah-ra...SABEgKgb_D_BwE

    Never broke one, but they were always louder then I wanted and another member on here said he saw a huge improvement in air flow when he went to the R1 fans. So I now run the Yeah Racing heat sink and the R1 fans. They are plastic housings and such but no issues yet. To also be clear. I street race my truck...no big air jumps or huge landings. Have had a few cartwheels at close to 60 mph and ended up on my lid...no issues yet. My 2 cents would be to get the heat sink alone that Olds recommend and either the the aluminum housed fans I linked to or the R1s.

    https://r1wurks.com/collections/cool...br-cooling-fan

    Those are 30x30x15...taller then the Yeah Racing fans and move a lot more air.
    Thanks for your input. I think aluminum fans with the Yeah Racing heat sink will work out pretty good for my needs. The R1ís are nice as well. Now you got me wondering! lol.


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    Couple comments. Blue loctite is needed on all motor and grub screws, otherwise loseness and misalignment will cause stripped spur gear. Second, I've come to realize that the EREVO 2 Velineon motor is crap. They took the Castle 1515 and cheaped it up, so that it has same power but just doesn't last at all. If you run two sets of 3s batteries back to back hard you will melt and seize the motor. After applying the best Yeah racing heatsink and twin townado fans, I still siezed up 4 Velineon motors in about 3 months. I'll never buy another. I'm running Castle 1515 now and so far no issues... With stock VXL-6s. May have to upgrade the ESC at some point but I like the Traxxas telemetry too much.

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    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Infinity View Post
    Couple comments. Blue loctite is needed on all motor and grub screws, otherwise loseness and misalignment will cause stripped spur gear. Second, I've come to realize that the EREVO 2 Velineon motor is crap. They took the Castle 1515 and cheaped it up, so that it has same power but just doesn't last at all. If you run two sets of 3s batteries back to back hard you will melt and seize the motor. After applying the best Yeah racing heatsink and twin townado fans, I still siezed up 4 Velineon motors in about 3 months. I'll never buy another. I'm running Castle 1515 now and so far no issues... With stock VXL-6s. May have to upgrade the ESC at some point but I like the Traxxas telemetry too much.
    Any idea how the 1515 compares to the older castle rebranded ERBEv1 motor? That's what I'm running in mine currently. Cooked my MXL-6S after the 3rd bash session on 6S in the 2.0 roller I moved stuff over to.

    I had run that motor and esc for 3 years on 4S in my v1. Summer and quite a bit of winter bashing. I want to say I replaced the bearings once... lol!
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Any idea how the 1515 compares to the older castle rebranded ERBEv1 motor? That's what I'm running in mine currently. Cooked my MXL-6S after the 3rd bash session on 6S in the 2.0 roller I moved stuff over to.

    I had run that motor and esc for 3 years on 4S in my v1. Summer and quite a bit of winter bashing. I want to say I replaced the bearings once... lol!
    I'm not sure, but it sounds like that ERBEv1 motor was maybe a real Castle. The motor can matches the 1515 with a removable front. The EREVO 2 motor has the solid can, and from what I've read Traxxas took over the production. The reason for this was most likely to save cost and cheapen it up. All signs point to this as that motor fails so easily and frequently. In my mind that stock motor and stock tires really make the EREVO 2 frustrating out of the box on 6s.

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    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Infinity View Post
    I'm not sure, but it sounds like that ERBEv1 motor was maybe a real Castle. The motor can matches the 1515 with a removable front. The EREVO 2 motor has the solid can, and from what I've read Traxxas took over the production. The reason for this was most likely to save cost and cheapen it up. All signs point to this as that motor fails so easily and frequently. In my mind that stock motor and stock tires really make the EREVO 2 frustrating out of the box on 6s.
    It's this one:
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/m...proof2200motor

    The MXL-6S is a rebranded MMv2, likely the motor is a rebranded castle one as well. I'm running it off an old HPI Blur F360C which is a rebranded MMv1. I conformal coated it as it's not waterproof. I have a spare brand new MXL-6S, but figured I'd run this esc until it died, if it ever will. lol!

    I tried putting a savox 1210sg servo running off of it, but the BEC in it doesn't have enough power. Nearly kills the fans when I turn the wheel and caused the receiver to brown out/reboot. I have a couple castle 10A bec's coming in the mail. I doubt I'll switch the servo now as I need it for something else, but I figured running a dedicated BEC, plus the 1800uf x 6 cap pack will help prolong the life of the old esc and the MXL-6S if I ever put it in there. Then all the ESC is doing is powering the motor.

    I just ran it again today and every time I bash it, I'm surprised at how resilient the 2.0 platform really is. I bumped my pinion from 15 to 16 (54T spur I think) to try and gain some speed and help with back flips. Made a noticeable difference in my air control. The esc did get warm, 120F (55F ambient). I checked the motor, but can't recall the temps... was more concerned I was taxing the esc too much.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Infinity View Post
    Couple comments. Blue loctite is needed on all motor and grub screws, otherwise loseness and misalignment will cause stripped spur gear. Second, I've come to realize that the EREVO 2 Velineon motor is crap. They took the Castle 1515 and cheaped it up, so that it has same power but just doesn't last at all. If you run two sets of 3s batteries back to back hard you will melt and seize the motor. After applying the best Yeah racing heatsink and twin townado fans, I still siezed up 4 Velineon motors in about 3 months. I'll never buy another. I'm running Castle 1515 now and so far no issues... With stock VXL-6s. May have to upgrade the ESC at some point but I like the Traxxas telemetry too much.
    Yikes. I hope I have better luck on the second motor. I havenít run packs consecutively. I did two runs on separate days, and the spur stripped out on the second run. Now Iím wondering if it was heat related. The motor was all torn up inside, so maybe it was heat.


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    Quote Originally Posted by RV88 View Post
    Yikes. I hope I have better luck on the second motor. I haven’t run packs consecutively. I did two runs on separate days, and the spur stripped out on the second run. Now I’m wondering if it was heat related. The motor was all torn up inside, so maybe it was heat.


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    Let us know how it works out with your second motor. I had the same issue with my first motor, car was plain stock, had only a few packs (<5) in, also on separate days. Went for a run, after 5 minutes (a little asphalt, a little grass) the motor was cooked. Sent it in and got a replacement (props to traxxas support), but never installed it since I couldn't handle so much downtime and went for the max8 combo by hobbywing. No issues so far with this setup, installed the yeah racing heatsink and double fans.
    E-Revo 2.0
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mastaa View Post
    Let us know how it works out with your second motor. I had the same issue with my first motor, car was plain stock, had only a few packs (<5) in, also on separate days. Went for a run, after 5 minutes (a little asphalt, a little grass) the motor was cooked. Sent it in and got a replacement (props to traxxas support), but never installed it since I couldn't handle so much downtime and went for the max8 combo by hobbywing. No issues so far with this setup, installed the yeah racing heatsink and double fans.
    The new motor came in today. I got it installed and ran a pair of fully charged 3s Gens Ace 5000mah/50c batteries through it.

    I was able to take the temperature on the motor approximately every 5 minutes a total of 4 times before the low voltage cutoff kicked in. It was 83F ambient temp, and very low humidity. Terrain was dry and loose dirt. It was almost sand in some areas. A lot of wheel spin due to the loose dirt for sure.

    I had moderate to heavy throttle inputs through out the 4 runs, with some jumping at the tops of hills, and 5-10 second speed runs.

    Motor Temps:

    Run #1: 155-160F
    Run #2: 175-180F
    Run #3: 180-185F
    Run #4: 210-215F
    ESC: stayed between 130-145F through out.

    I was heavier on the throttle during the last run, and you can tell from the jump in temp. The batteries lasted a total of about 25 minutes. I would pause for 1-2 minutes between runs to take the body off, and read the temp from the middle of the motor can. Is this too hot? I donít want to fry another motor.



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  25. #25
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    200s in my opinion is way too hot for a motor. Did you set up a cooling system on it yet? The hottest I let my motor see is 165* with cooling fans...and im pretty hard on my street beast...hard on the throttle and on the brakes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    200s in my opinion is way too hot for a motor. Did you set up a cooling system on it yet? The hottest I let my motor see is 165* with cooling fans...and im pretty hard on my street beast...hard on the throttle and on the brakes.
    No cooling setup yet. Iím online right now getting ready to order one though. Iím kind of disappointed that Iím having heat issues right out of the box though. Is there a defect somewhere?


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  27. #27
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    These things run hot. You will see MUCH better results when you get a cooling system on it. Just checking...your still running stock gearing and stock wheels and tires correct? If you have not done so, get a temp sensor and blutooth module so you can monitor your temps and everything right in the app. This is a great investment.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    These things run hot. You will see MUCH better results when you get a cooling system on it. Just checking...your still running stock gearing and stock wheels and tires correct? If you have not done so, get a temp sensor and blutooth module so you can monitor your temps and everything right in the app. This is a great investment.
    Yep. Everything is stock out of the box. I got the Bluetooth module that goes on the back of the remote, but I havenít gotten the telemetry box/sensors.


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  29. #29
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    You won't need to buy anything other then the motor temp sensor...believe it or not...the E Revo 2.0 has everything in it already minus motor temp sensor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    You won't need to buy anything other then the motor temp sensor...believe it or not...the E Revo 2.0 has everything in it already minus motor temp sensor.
    I guess Iíll add it to the list lol. Overall the truck was a blast to drive. I just donít want to blow up another motor.


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  31. #31
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Yeah grab TRA6521 and TRA6535....install, set up your App and you will be in business! Just watch your temps and let the truck cool between battery packs and you will be good.

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    Motor Failure

    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    Yeah grab TRA6521 and TRA6535....install, set up your App and you will be in business! Just watch your temps and let the truck cool between battery packs and you will be good.
    I installed the Bluetooth module and downloaded the app last week. I havenít messed with it very much though. Does it maintain a connection even while youíre bashing the truck around? I remember seeing something about being able to record the dashboard as well. This fancy electronic stuff is all new to me.


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    Sure does! Will provide real time data as your running it...even allows you to set alarms based on the parameters you want. I have voltage and temp sensor alarms so I know when my truck is getting warm-hot and when to shut her down prior to low volatage kicking in on the ESC. Works great! The speed reading is based on motor RPM, so not super accurate...but pretty close.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    Sure does! Will provide real time data as your running it...even allows you to set alarms based on the parameters you want. I have voltage and temp sensor alarms so I know when my truck is getting warm-hot and when to shut her down prior to low volatage kicking in on the ESC. Works great! The speed reading is based on motor RPM, so not super accurate...but pretty close.
    I was watching some YouTube videos on installing the temp/voltage sensor. It seems like thereís an additional adapter that plugs into the ESC or battery leads where the red connector goes for the voltage. Is that accurate, or have things changed?


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  35. #35
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Not required on the E-Revo 2.0. You will wrap the sensor wire around the motor can, attach it using the thermal tape and the lil plastic holder w the zip tie. Plug into your VT port and red into open port on receiver. Voltage already is set up on the truck.

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...sor-E-Revo-2-0

    Here is my thread on it from a while back with good info!
    Last edited by RICK DIZZLE; 10-23-2019 at 09:21 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    Not required on the E-Revo 2.0. You will wrap the sensor wire around the motor can, attach it using the thermal tape and the lil plastic holder w the zip tie. Plug into your VT port and red into open port on receiver. Voltage already is set up on the truck.

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...sor-E-Revo-2-0

    Here is my thread on it from a while back with good info!
    Perfect! Thank you.


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    Rick,

    Was there interference between the zip tie that holds the temp sensor and the heat sink/fan mount. I ordered the yeah racing setup, but I noticed the temp sensor mounts with a zip tie around the motor as well.


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  38. #38
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    You can put the sensor at the front portion of the motor can, up close to where the motor mounts to the motor mount. There will then be enough room for the heat sink. I get off work in a few hours and will post a pic of my exact set up to show ya.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    You can put the sensor at the front portion of the motor can, up close to where the motor mounts to the motor mount. There will then be enough room for the heat sink. I get off work in a few hours and will post a pic of my exact set up to show ya.
    Sounds good. You still get accurate temp? I noticed the middle of the motor can tended to be the hottest. Thanks for the on-going assistance!


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  40. #40
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Yeah its right against the can so its pretty darn accurate...the middle does tend to get a lil hotter...but I set my motor temp alarm to 160 and if I hit that I let it cool for a few mins. So even if 10-15 degrees hotter in the middle (dont think its truly that high) it still at most 175 for the motor.

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