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Thread: Motor Failure

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    Yeah its right against the can so its pretty darn accurate...the middle does tend to get a lil hotter...but I set my motor temp alarm to 160 and if I hit that I let it cool for a few mins. So even if 10-15 degrees hotter in the middle (dont think its truly that high) it still at most 175 for the motor.
    Makes sense. I went ahead and ordered everything. Now I just have to wait until Monday to set it all up! Next thing on the list is converting all my terminals to XT60.


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  2. #42
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Here are a couple pics. You can see the zip tie at the front of the motor on the can just before it mounts to the motor mount. The sensor I have on the bottom of the motor so its a lil more tucked in and protected. The wider pic shows how the heat sink sits on the motor almost against where the motor wires go in and you can see that there is room for the sensor up front. Also if your still under warranty, don't change your connectors just yet. It voids the warranty. If warranty is up, change away!

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  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    Here are a couple pics. You can see the zip tie at the front of the motor on the can just before it mounts to the motor mount. The sensor I have on the bottom of the motor so its a lil more tucked in and protected. The wider pic shows how the heat sink sits on the motor almost against where the motor wires go in and you can see that there is room for the sensor up front. Also if your still under warranty, don't change your connectors just yet. It voids the warranty. If warranty is up, change away!

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    Thanks for the photos! Did you end up having to move the motor to the high CG position on the motor mount to fit the heat sink, or were you able to leave it at the stock low CG? Itís a 30 day warranty I believe, so I still have about 2 more weeks. I guess I will wait.


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  4. #44
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    No my motor is still in stock low position. The underside of the heatsink is flat so it works.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    No my motor is still in stock low position. The underside of the heatsink is flat so it works.
    Okay. Iíll see how it works out when my order gets here on Monday.


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  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by RV88 View Post
    The new motor came in today. I got it installed and ran a pair of fully charged 3s Gens Ace 5000mah/50c batteries through it.

    I was able to take the temperature on the motor approximately every 5 minutes a total of 4 times before the low voltage cutoff kicked in. It was 83F ambient temp, and very low humidity. Terrain was dry and loose dirt. It was almost sand in some areas. A lot of wheel spin due to the loose dirt for sure.

    I had moderate to heavy throttle inputs through out the 4 runs, with some jumping at the tops of hills, and 5-10 second speed runs.

    Motor Temps:

    Run #1: 155-160F
    Run #2: 175-180F
    Run #3: 180-185F
    Run #4: 210-215F
    ESC: stayed between 130-145F through out.

    I was heavier on the throttle during the last run, and you can tell from the jump in temp. The batteries lasted a total of about 25 minutes. I would pause for 1-2 minutes between runs to take the body off, and read the temp from the middle of the motor can. Is this too hot? I donít want to fry another motor.



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    On other models Traxxas includes a motor fan, for instance the new Maxx 4s. It's a shame it wasn't included with EREVO 2 because on 6s it absolutely needs a motor fan. The motor windings will delaminate somewhere over 220 F and cause rotor/stator interference leading to hard seize. So keep the outide of the can well below thjs. I shoot for below 180 F. The first time it happened I was going wide open about 50 Mph and the truck went into about 1000 cartwheels. It broke one of the diffs and of course the spur gear. So you really want to prevent this kind of failure. Such a shame Traxxas set themselves up for nonstop motor failure on 6s out of the box.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Infinity View Post
    On other models Traxxas includes a motor fan, for instance the new Maxx 4s. It's a shame it wasn't included with EREVO 2 because on 6s it absolutely needs a motor fan. The motor windings will delaminate somewhere over 220 F and cause rotor/stator interference leading to hard seize. So keep the outide of the can well below thjs. I shoot for below 180 F. The first time it happened I was going wide open about 50 Mph and the truck went into about 1000 cartwheels. It broke one of the diffs and of course the spur gear. So you really want to prevent this kind of failure. Such a shame Traxxas set themselves up for nonstop motor failure on 6s out of the box.
    It really is unfortunate. I hope I didnít cook this second motor already by going to 215. I Havenít had time to run it again to make sure itís still okay. Hopefully the issue will be fixed once I install the fans.


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  8. #48
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    Motor Failure

    The parts I ordered came in this morning, which was a pleasant surprise! Passing all the wiring through into the receiver box was a royal PITA. I did end up getting everything routed and mounted though.

    I have two issues. I can only run one fan right now because the fan connectors are too large to be placed next to any of the other connectors. I have a slot available on the receiver, but I canít get the fan connector to fit in between all the others. Do I need some sort of y-adapter so I can turn two into one, or should I just splice the second fan into the first?

    Also, Iím getting the temp reading from the motor sensor I installed, but it seems to be reading too high. When I used my temp gun it was about 10-15f cooler than the readout on the app. The small thermal pad that came with the temp sensor fell off, so could that make it read higher? Just one fan helped keep temps down, which is great, now I just want to get the other one running.

    The voltage meter seems to be working as well. I left the red connector disconnected and only connected the grey one to the v/t slot on the receiver. I noticed connecting the red one to the receiver would make it read the voltage from the receiver and not from the batteries. Once I disconnected it, it read the battery voltage just fine.

    Edit: I just noticed I installed my fans upside down like an idiot! LOL. I guess these things work even if theyíre just pulling heat out. Wow...Iím glad I caught that now. Iíll upload a new picture when I fix it in a bit.

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    Last edited by RV88; 10-26-2019 at 04:40 PM.

  9. #49
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    Glad everything came early for ya! As for the fans, you can run a Y adapter or you can splice and wire the two together, whatever your skill level is easier to do. I have mine spliced together, but do not run mine off the truck. I actually run a small 2s Lipo reciever pack to power my fans so I am not pulling anything extra from the truck...by no means required, but already running a Savox servo, I wanted to prevent loading my trucks reciever to heavy on draw. As for the temp sensor, mine is a couple degrees off from a temp gun but nothing major. Also if you plug in the voltage, you will see Rx power. But in the app, you can add another gauge and rename it and it will show battery voltage. And once you get both fans running blowing on the motor...you will see a huge benefit. Also it tends to cool better if you run the fan stand offs as it allows the air to flow across the heat sink and continue past vs stalling on top of the motor. Just a lil tip.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by RV88 View Post
    The parts I ordered came in this morning, which was a pleasant surprise! Passing all the wiring through into the receiver box was a royal PITA. I did end up getting everything routed and mounted though.

    I have two issues. I can only run one fan right now because the fan connectors are too large to be placed next to any of the other connectors. I have a slot available on the receiver, but I canít get the fan connector to fit in between all the others. Do I need some sort of y-adapter so I can turn two into one, or should I just splice the second fan into the first?

    Also, Iím getting the temp reading from the motor sensor I installed, but it seems to be reading too high. When I used my temp gun it was about 10-15f cooler than the readout on the app. The small thermal pad that came with the temp sensor fell off, so could that make it read higher? Just one fan helped keep temps down, which is great, now I just want to get the other one running.

    The voltage meter seems to be working as well. I left the red connector disconnected and only connected the grey one to the v/t slot on the receiver. I noticed connecting the red one to the receiver would make it read the voltage from the receiver and not from the batteries. Once I disconnected it, it read the battery voltage just fine.

    Edit: I just noticed I installed my fans upside down like an idiot! LOL. I guess these things work even if theyíre just pulling heat out. Wow...Iím glad I caught that now. Iíll upload a new picture when I fix it in a bit.

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    Just a couple things I learned. If using only two fan standoffs per fan, landing a hard jump can cause fan housing breakage. It's a shame you only get two per fan in the kit. After I destroyed enough fans, I found that mounting directly to the heatsink with three screws is the most reliable. This also protects fans more when body pops off and you land upside down. I also found that motor temps really are not affected much by this... maybe like 5-10 F, but the increased durability is well worth it, and your temperature is still well below 180 F.

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    Glad everything came early for ya! As for the fans, you can run a Y adapter or you can splice and wire the two together, whatever your skill level is easier to do. I have mine spliced together, but do not run mine off the truck. I actually run a small 2s Lipo reciever pack to power my fans so I am not pulling anything extra from the truck...by no means required, but already running a Savox servo, I wanted to prevent loading my trucks reciever to heavy on draw. As for the temp sensor, mine is a couple degrees off from a temp gun but nothing major. Also if you plug in the voltage, you will see Rx power. But in the app, you can add another gauge and rename it and it will show battery voltage. And once you get both fans running blowing on the motor...you will see a huge benefit. Also it tends to cool better if you run the fan stand offs as it allows the air to flow across the heat sink and continue past vs stalling on top of the motor. Just a lil tip.
    Iíll keep monitoring the temperature difference and adjust my warning on the app accordingly. Iím going to cut the fan wires and solder them together, so I donít have to wait for another adapter. For now, Iím not gonna run the stand-offs. If I end up on my lid I will probably break them off.

    The Traxxas app is very confusing. I was trying to figure out how to get both my ESC and motor temp, but if I add another temp gauge on the dash board it just displays the motor temp on both. Is renaming it the part that Iím missing? Thanks for continuing to follow this thread and providing advice!

    Quote Originally Posted by Infinity View Post
    Just a couple things I learned. If using only two fan standoffs per fan, landing a hard jump can cause fan housing breakage. It's a shame you only get two per fan in the kit. After I destroyed enough fans, I found that mounting directly to the heatsink with three screws is the most reliable. This also protects fans more when body pops off and you land upside down. I also found that motor temps really are not affected much by this... maybe like 5-10 F, but the increased durability is well worth it, and your temperature is still well below 180 F.
    I agree. Iím going to keep them mounted directly to the heat sink since I bash out in the desert quite a bit. I donít want to break them off when I undoubtedly screw up a landing. Thanks for the tips!



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  12. #52
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    I had some time today to get the fans spliced together. It wasnít my best soldering job since the wires were so small, but it works!




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  13. #53
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    I went out and tested the new hardware. It made a HUGE difference! I ran packs back to back and the highest temp I hit was about 150. It was only 70 degrees ambient temp, so that may have helped as well. I had a blast bashing this thing around without worrying about frying the motor. The fans are holding up well so far even with my crappy driving.

    Only thing I was disappointed in was the Ovonic batteries I purchased as a second set. I bought a pair of 3s/5500mah/50c packs, and they lasted all of about 10 minutes before I hit the low voltage detection. The reviews on YouTube were great for these, so Iím kind of surprised. I checked the voltage on each cell just to make sure the ESC wasnít being sensitive, but sure enough each cell was at 3.6. My pair of Gens Ace 5000mah went 30+ minutes before the LVD came on. Not sure if I just got a bad set of Ovonics or what.


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  14. #54
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    Fantastic! Glad to hear your back in business. Now you should continue to run nice and cool and with your app, you can monitor on the fly. Not familiar with the Ovonics batteries so I cant provide input there.

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    Fantastic! Glad to hear your back in business. Now you should continue to run nice and cool and with your app, you can monitor on the fly. Not familiar with the Ovonics batteries so I cant provide input there.
    Thanks. A lot of your advice and tips really helped me out. Weíll see what I break next haha.


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  16. #56
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Your welcome. This forum is really awesome. Lots of folks with tons of knowledge. Has helped me for years with all my trucks.

  17. #57
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    Motor Failure

    Everything is still running well. I took out the e-revo 2.0 and my Revo 3.3 today. The 2.0 ran great and I was getting some nice air time off some jumps I found. I noticed the pillow balls backed out some from the a-arm on the front left tire. I tightened them back up and all looks good. Weíll see if they keep coming out.

    The 3.3 didnít fair so well. I landed on the throttle after a jump, and I snapped the rear center driveshaft like a twig. Replacement shafts on order.


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  18. #58
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    Glad your back having a blast! Check to make sure your pillow ball caps are not too tight and add a lil bit of dry lube on the pillow ball. That really helped mine from backing out. Also if they keep backing out, a dab of medium CA glue on the threads tends to help.
    Last edited by RICK DIZZLE; 10-30-2019 at 09:20 PM.

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    Glad your back having a blast! Check to make sure your pillow ball caps are not too tight and had a lil bit of dry lube on the pillow ball. That really helped mine from backing out. Also if they keep backing out, a dab of medium CA glue on the threads tends to help.
    Sounds good. Iíll keep an eye on it.


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  20. #60
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    The carnage continues. I smoked both steering servos while out on a bash today. They just spin infinitely in one direction now lol. Any recommendations on replacements that are better than stock, because these sure didnít last long.


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  21. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by RV88 View Post
    The carnage continues. I smoked both steering servos while out on a bash today. They just spin infinitely in one direction now lol. Any recommendations on replacements that are better than stock, because these sure didnít last long.


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    Those stock 2075 servos are comically bad. Everyone burns through them fairly quick, not sure what Traxxas is thinking. I went with single Power HD WP-23KG for $40. It can move the servo saver to full extension with the wheels locked in place, so I take that as strong enough. So far so good.

  22. #62
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    Yeah as others said...comically bad for those servos. I run a Savox 1231sg. Lil pricey but killer servo! I have heard good of the Power HD Infinity mentioned. Just don't have personal experience with it.

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    A lot of people burn the stock servos due to not aligning them before using the truck out of the box. It takes some time to setup at dual steering servo setup and get it right. I run dual savox 1267sgís in my summit. It took me quite a while to set them up so they didnít fight each other. Iím not saying the traxxas 2075 servos are good, just that many people donít set them up correctly out of the box and this can really shorten the life of them. Even though itís a RTR, itís very wise to go over every screw, check the shocks, gear mesh, and the servos as well as every other part and/or screws. At least that is my thinking.

  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Infinity View Post
    Those stock 2075 servos are comically bad. Everyone burns through them fairly quick, not sure what Traxxas is thinking. I went with single Power HD WP-23KG for $40. It can move the servo saver to full extension with the wheels locked in place, so I take that as strong enough. So far so good.
    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    Yeah as others said...comically bad for those servos. I run a Savox 1231sg. Lil pricey but killer servo! I have heard good of the Power HD Infinity mentioned. Just don't have personal experience with it.
    Quote Originally Posted by 222 View Post
    A lot of people burn the stock servos due to not aligning them before using the truck out of the box. It takes some time to setup at dual steering servo setup and get it right. I run dual savox 1267sgís in my summit. It took me quite a while to set them up so they didnít fight each other. Iím not saying the traxxas 2075 servos are good, just that many people donít set them up correctly out of the box and this can really shorten the life of them. Even though itís a RTR, itís very wise to go over every screw, check the shocks, gear mesh, and the servos as well as every other part and/or screws. At least that is my thinking.
    Thanks for the replies. I will take a look at the Savox and Power HD. On the positive side, Traxxas customer service came through again. Theyíre sending me two new servos. Iím going to go aftermarket and keep the Traxxas replacements as spares most likely though. The servos werenít fighting each other when I powered it up for the first time out of the box, so they seemed to have been aligned.




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    I can confirm that the SavŲx 1231sg works like a charm. I got that one on a recommendation from Rick in another thread, switching from dual servos to single setup has made my life a lot easier too, zero issues so far.

    As for Power HD, I'm running a B2 (35kg) in my Kraton, more torque than I'll ever need, but holding up perfectly so far with decent speed.

    You're on the exact same "failure" road as I was with my Revo, smoked the motor first, then both steering servos.
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  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mastaa View Post
    I can confirm that the SavŲx 1231sg works like a charm. I got that one on a recommendation from Rick in another thread, switching from dual servos to single setup has made my life a lot easier too, zero issues so far.

    As for Power HD, I'm running a B2 (35kg) in my Kraton, more torque than I'll ever need, but holding up perfectly so far with decent speed.

    You're on the exact same "failure" road as I was with my Revo, smoked the motor first, then both steering servos.
    I guess you might as well tell me what fails next! lol.


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  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by RV88 View Post
    I guess you might as well tell me what fails next! lol.


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    You should be good for the moment, at least regarding electronics. I've blown tires, killed a few toe links, lost a few screws, shredded wings... just the usual
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  28. #68
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    Well, today I lost the pins that attach to the dog bone on the right rear drive cup. Ended up with front wheel drive only. Either Iím a terrible driver or this thing has a lot of gremlins.

    Also, is it normal to have this much wear on the cups already? Iíve got about 6 packs through it so far.






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    Quote Originally Posted by RV88 View Post
    Well, today I lost the pins that attach to the dog bone on the right rear drive cup. Ended up with front wheel drive only. Either Iím a terrible driver or this thing has a lot of gremlins.

    Also, is it normal to have this much wear on the cups already? Iíve got about 6 packs through it so far.






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    I've got similar wear on mine too, with a similar number of packs.

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    The wear looks standard, the broken pin is not. You just got lucky. Not a common failure.

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  31. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    The wear looks standard, the broken pin is not. You just got lucky. Not a common failure.

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    Thanks for the input. Traxxas came through as usual and is sending me a new dog bone. The down time is kind of annoying though. Iím really exercising this 30 day warranty lol.


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  32. #72
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    I have had many things fail that I like to complain about (motor, tires, pivot balls, center driveshaft pins, battery connector) but never had this dog bone issue.

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    Is it true that is a normal amount of wear on the cups after only 6 packs? If so, then is the cup steel hardened at all?

    I have Tekno shafts for the 1/10 vehicles and they show no wear after at least ten times that number of packs. Fair enough thatís a lot less load but theyíre smaller with less wear area too.

    Is there any replacement cup that fits from a 1/8 truggy for example? Or has anyone had any luck heating and quenching the cups to harden?

    Iím looking to run these cups in the near future, and if thatís how they wear, Iíd like to try do something before they get notched like that so quickly.

  34. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Is it true that is a normal amount of wear on the cups after only 6 packs? If so, then is the cup steel hardened at all?

    I have Tekno shafts for the 1/10 vehicles and they show no wear after at least ten times that number of packs. Fair enough that’s a lot less load but they’re smaller with less wear area too.

    Is there any replacement cup that fits from a 1/8 truggy for example? Or has anyone had any luck heating and quenching the cups to harden?

    I’m looking to run these cups in the near future, and if that’s how they wear, I’d like to try do something before they get notched like that so quickly.
    Mine have some wear. I bought my truck used and it had notches in the cups for forward contact. I had a strange noise and thought perhaps a diff was going, or bearing, so I pulled the diffs, cleaned them, replaced all the bearings and put red-n-tacky grease on the ring/pinion. When reinstalling the cups, I put them on the opposite sides so the forward contact was like new. I have 8 or 10 packs through it since that and still very little wear. After each bash, I put a few drops of white lightning chain lube (wax based) on all the cups and I do have my punch set fairly soft (not stock motor/esc).
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    Thanks for the feedback mate, appreciate it. Good to hear that esc settings and driving style sounds like they may be playing a decent part.

    I always try to feed the throttle in instead of gunning it hard, and for some reason have a real aversion to the constant throttle blipping driving style so I hope that will help.

    I did research hardening and tempering and it doesnít look that hard, so Iíll give that a go if the wear looks like it starting to be too excessive too early.

    Cheers!

  36. #76
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    FWIW, almost all my driving has been at skate parks or a grass bmx track, so the truck in general doesn't have an easy life. Lots of high traction areas with big jumps and constant WOT for flipping and whatnot, which really punishes drivetrain parts. I never drive on dirt. The only easy time my RC's get is in the winter when I run on snow and in the cold. The tires hook up less, so the drive train sees high speeds, but low impact mostly. I run strapped 3.8" trenchers on my 2.0. It came as a slider, so I never ran stock tires. From what I've found though, they are 1oz heavier per tire than the trencher 3.8's, which are pretty heavy tires.
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    Thatís good info mate thanks. Sounds like yours are getting a workout. So whatís happening with the cups that are notching after 6 packs? Does a batch skip the hardening process every now and then or something?

  38. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Thatís good info mate thanks. Sounds like yours are getting a workout. So whatís happening with the cups that are notching after 6 packs? Does a batch skip the hardening process every now and then or something?
    Not sure. I guess Iíll keep an eye on them and see if they get worse. They taper a bit so the thinnest part of the metal is at the contact point of the dog bone. Mine have worn into the thicker portion now, so maybe that is as far as theyíll go for a while. Weíll see.


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    Thatís an interesting thought too.

    Iíve been meaning to say that you should be able to press a new pin back into that dogbone as well. Just need to find the right size pin and possibly heat the end of the shaft a little.

  40. #80
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Thatís an interesting thought too.

    Iíve been meaning to say that you should be able to press a new pin back into that dogbone as well. Just need to find the right size pin and possibly heat the end of the shaft a little.
    Traxxas sent me a new one. I hope I wonít be losing pins constantly.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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