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  1. #1
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    Transmission clean and ready for rebuild

    Hey, does anybody know of a good grease to use on transmission. Stock, xl-5, upgrade to castle sidewinder4 4600kv. Thanks!


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  2. #2
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    I keep coming back to Mobil 1 grease. Iíve tried moly etc and really like how the Mobil 1 is lighter and less sticky, especially when applied in moderation. It feels like the drive train is more free than other greases.

    Surely, somehow, that has to come at a cost of less protection overall, especially compared to something like moly, but I havenít noticed any undue wear.

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/gmk-sup...gmk0115/p12718


    I had some Buzzyís slick honey given to me by a bike shop mechanic and itís a really interesting grease too. Very light and has a Teflon feel to it. He swore by it and used it everywhere but I havenít been game to try it on a transmission yet. Iím keen to give it a go for on road sometime though.

    They say itís good for seals too, but Iím also not sure yet if that means silicone.

    https://buzzysusa.com/

  3. #3
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    I forgot itís actually ĎMobil 1 syntheticí.

    Cheaper by the tube too.

    I just looked it up to find out a little more and it seems itís actually a lithium grease.

    https://www.mobil.com/english-us/gre...nthetic-grease

  4. #4
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    Iíve had really good experience with associated black grease.

    https://www.ebay.com/p/710148372?iid...yABEgIGKvD_BwE


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  5. #5
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    Not sure about that particular link, but you get the idea


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  6. #6
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    Thanks guys. Iím gonna check these different types out. See what happens. Iíll let ya know if I blow some bearings or stomp the comp.


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  7. #7
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    Good luck!

    I think the important thing, no matter which geese you use, is to only put a very light coating on the internal ring/pinion gears where there are mating metal surfaces. Iíve seen lots of vids where people really gob it on. All that excess just ends up getting slung against the internal wall of your gear case.

    A good technique is to just add small dabs at a time, spin the gears, repeat until you get the desired result.


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  8. #8
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    A toothbrush works really well too. Good to keep a dedicated brush with each of the different greases in regular use, as some donít play well with others. Few dabs on the gear then work it into an even film with the brush. Like you say thatís all that ends up left anyway after the first throttle punch.

    Iím pretty sure the associated black grease is a standard molybdenum grease too if you want to buy it cheaper in larger quantities.

  9. #9
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    Cool tip! Iíve definitely got some old toothbrushes to repurpose now.

    I may just use up what associated black grease I have left and try out the Mobil 1 synthetic. Iíve heard a number of people say they swear by that stuff.

    Thanks again!


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  10. #10
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    So now you have me looking into Mobil 1... I stumbled upon something called Mobilith SHC 100 while I was looking. Do you have any experience with this variety?


    https://www.mobil.com/en/industrial/...bilith-shc-100


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  11. #11
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    No worries. A million and one uses for old toothbrushes.

    I wish I understood a lot more about the chemistry of oils and greases. As far as I know the moly grease bonds a molecular coating of molybdenum on the metal and thatís what protects against friction under pressure??? I also notice the Mobil 1 synthetic quotes itís effectiveness under pressure as well.

    Both seem to work well, the moly especially when itís really thin to avoid its Ďstickinessí, and if it is indeed at the molecular level it is working, then a very light coat should be every bit as effective.

    Personally I just find the Mobil 1 very easy to work with. Performs well and cleans up easy too.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    So now you have me looking into Mobil 1... I stumbled upon something called Mobilith SHC 100 while I was looking. Do you have any experience with this variety?


    https://www.mobil.com/en/industrial/...bilith-shc-100


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    No, but that looks really interesting! May be just the Mobil 1 but hopped up? Seems to have temperature considerations for industry factored in? Donít know if weíd notice the difference?

    Iíd love to know though... But I found the standard Mobil 1 hard enough to come by in Australia. I only found it from one eBay seller and bought a tube. Thatíll last me forever.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    No, but that looks really interesting! May be just the Mobil 1 but hopped up? Seems to have temperature considerations for industry factored in? Donít know if weíd notice the difference?

    Iíd love to know though... But I found the standard Mobil 1 hard enough to come by in Australia. I only found it from one eBay seller and bought a tube. Thatíll last me forever.
    Thanks for tech info on the moly grease! Interesting stuff for sure.

    I ordered up a tube of that SHC 100 from Amazon. Unfortunately though, since I did such a bang up job rebuilding all of my trannies last time, I donít think Iíll be doing a rebuild anytime soon.

    When I do though, I will definitely be using a toothbrush




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  14. #14
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    I searched again to verify it but couldnít find it. Iím sure I read it somewhere though that even when most of the moly grease has been pressed out with pressure a coating of moly still remains and reduces friction.

    Great stuff on the new grease. Iíll send you a PM and if it works out, and isnít too much trouble, Iíll see if I could send you some money to post a sample of it out? Always good to try new greases!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    It is not advisable to fill the diff case with grease. All you need to a generous film on both gears. I have used marine grease and imo it is a pita if you do regular maintenance because the stuff doesn't wash out since it is so resistance to water. I use a product from Lucas Oils called Red"N"Tacky which excessed any workload we expose our trucks to. Easily found at most big box stores and hardware stores.



    This is from another grease thread here. I have been using this grease for a year and half or so in my Monster Slash 4x4 with the Traxxas beveled spiral cut steel ring and pinion. I pull the diffs once a month on avg and they still look like new. Considering spiral cut gear teeth slide against the toothface during mesh engagement a high quality grease is beneficial.

    Just another candidate to consider.

    P.S. Ignore some of the details in the quote since they do not address this thread. Just left in for completeness.


    Source thread: https://forums.traxxas.com/showthread.php?9088275
    Last edited by zedorda; 10-26-2019 at 12:16 AM.

  16. #16
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    Good to see, Iíll check it out. You guys are spoilt for choice in the States!

    I also encountered a recommendation for ĎAmsoil HD Greaseí in a thread that was talking about separation troubles a few people had with Mobil 1 after a number of years.

    Couldnít see it here although there are some interesting options.

    https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/grease/

    Donít most grease threads end up with ďanything is better than nothing, and any further than that, everyone has their own personal favourite flavourí? :P

    I have as many greases as my wife has lotions and potions!

  17. #17
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Don’t most grease threads end up with “anything is better than nothing, and any further than that, everyone has their own personal favourite flavour’? :P
    Yes most any grease will work. The real factor I have found to be important is how long does it protect. As long as the grease you pick fits your maintenance schedule you are all good.

    One thing I really like about Red"N"Tacky is it is colored and each month I do my regreasing it is still red with only slight grey clouding from wear. And I can gauge wear by how much discolouration there is.
    Last edited by zedorda; 10-26-2019 at 12:05 AM.

  18. #18
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    I found that red n tacky in Australia! Wonders never cease! Iíll order a tub and give it a go.

    Trusting your spiral gears to it is a good recommendation, they are a valuable commodity. Iíd love a set but havenít had the funds to allocate as yet.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Good to see, Iíll check it out. You guys are spoilt for choice in the States!

    I also encountered a recommendation for ĎAmsoil HD Greaseí in a thread that was talking about separation troubles a few people had with Mobil 1 after a number of years.

    Couldnít see it here although there are some interesting options.

    https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/grease/

    Donít most grease threads end up with ďanything is better than nothing, and any further than that, everyone has their own personal favourite flavourí? :P

    I have as many greases as my wife has lotions and potions!
    You know, we spoiled! I had just assumed that amazon shipped all over the world. Iím probably extra spoiled because I live just outside of Boston, and many products you can get same day.

    Iím happy to help you out, but if you can get the red and tacky, Iíve heard a lot of positive reviews on that as well. The mobilith SHC stuff just had such a high tech write up, I instantly wanted it


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  20. #20
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    And my wife too has an entire bathroom full of lotions and potions. Iím lucky if I get a spot in the corner shelf


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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    I found that red n tacky in Australia! Wonders never cease! Iíll order a tub and give it a go.

    Trusting your spiral gears to it is a good recommendation, they are a valuable commodity. Iíd love a set but havenít had the funds to allocate as yet.
    Spiral gears? What types of benefits do spiral gears give over 48p and 32p traditional gearing. Thanks!


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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by B3A5T1492 View Post
    Hey, does anybody know of a good grease to use on transmission. Stock, xl-5, upgrade to castle sidewinder4 4600kv. Thanks!


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    I decided for this build I would go with some basics. Itís my first rebuild, so I wanna make sure Iím not going too crazy. Plus I had to get a new trans/diff case ďTraxxasĒ P#3691(8.00), I Went with ďTraxxasĒ lithium grease P#5148 ($3.00), and ďTeam LosiĒ High -Pressure Blk Grease P#TLR77000. ($6.00)

    ďSlow is smooth, smooth is fastĒ






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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by B3A5T1492 View Post
    I decided for this build I would go with some basics. Itís my first rebuild, so I wanna make sure Iím not going too crazy. Plus I had to get a new trans/diff case ďTraxxasĒ P#3691(8.00), I Went with ďTraxxasĒ lithium grease P#5148 ($3.00), and ďTeam LosiĒ High -Pressure Blk Grease P#TLR77000. ($6.00)

    ďSlow is smooth, smooth is fastĒ






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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by B3A5T1492 View Post
    Spiral gears? What types of benefits do spiral gears give over 48p and 32p traditional gearing. Thanks!
    Good to see youíre on you way with the rebuild mate, those tubes should serve you well. I would guess that the Losi grease is a molybdenum grease.

    As far as Iím aware the main benefit of the Traxxas spiral diff gears (for the 4x4 vehicles) are that they are machined vs the stock stamped gears?

    https://m.traxxas.com/products/parts/6879R

    https://m.traxxas.com/products/parts/5379R

    There are benefits and drawbacks to both straight and helical gears.

    With straight cut, each tooth rolls into full contact individually and can cause more noise and vibration. Helical are quieter due to the teeth having a gradual and progressive mesh.

    Spiral gears can also be stronger than a similarly sized strait cut gear, as the teeth are relatively larger due to the angle, and several teeth can mesh simultaneously, distributing the load over a larger load bearing area.

    However the angle in helical teeth also produces an axial force on the gears under load (pushes the gears apart), and this can produce forces on bearings and housings they may not have been designed to withstand.

    This is why racing transmissions may choose straight cut gears, not that they are stronger than helical, but because it is simpler and lighter to case them without the axial loads.

    Thatís as best I understand it anyway.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Good to see youíre on you way with the rebuild mate, those tubes should serve you well. I would guess that the Losi grease is a molybdenum grease.

    As far as Iím aware the main benefit of the Traxxas spiral diff gears (for the 4x4 vehicles) are that they are machined vs the stock stamped gears?

    https://m.traxxas.com/products/parts/6879R

    https://m.traxxas.com/products/parts/5379R

    There are benefits and drawbacks to both straight and helical gears.

    With straight cut, each tooth rolls into full contact individually and can cause more noise and vibration. Helical are quieter due to the teeth having a gradual and progressive mesh.

    Spiral gears can also be stronger than a similarly sized strait cut gear, as the teeth are relatively larger due to the angle, and several teeth can mesh simultaneously, distributing the load over a larger load bearing area.

    However the angle in helical teeth also produces an axial force on the gears under load (pushes the gears apart), and this can produce forces on bearings and housings they may not have been designed to withstand.

    This is why racing transmissions may choose straight cut gears, not that they are stronger than helical, but because it is simpler and lighter to case them without the axial loads.

    Thatís as best I understand it anyway.
    Thanks for the info! I definitely have an idea now.


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    Quote Originally Posted by B3A5T1492 View Post
    Thanks for the info! I definitely have an idea now.


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    In the future I would like to try some 32P gears see how I like them. I do know I like plastic spur gears though. I had the transmission lock up. It smashed my spur gear. All the metal gears in trans and differential, as well as the pinion survived.


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    Last edited by Double G; 10-27-2019 at 10:00 AM. Reason: merge

  26. #26
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    It is definitely a benefit to have a cheap and easy to replace failsafe like a plastic spur! Youíre right on with that.

    The 48P are nice and quiet, and the 32P are stronger.

    Iím not sure the 32P spur gears fit under the Rustler slipper cover being flat? I canít remember the specifics for sure now but I do remember messing with that a while back and having some issues.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by B3A5T1492 View Post
    In the future I would like to try some 32P gears see how I like them. I do know I like plastic spur gears though. I had the transmission lock up. It smashed my spur gear. All the metal gears in trans and differential, as well as the pinion survived.


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    I run a 1/8 motor on my Rustler with the FLM layshaft and Associated VTS slipper setup. Itís all 48p and seems to handle the stress just fine. I figure if the internal gears are all 48p, why would the spur and pinion need to be 32p?

    Definitely a great idea to stick with plastic spurs!


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  28. #28
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    The associated VTS slipper conversion looks great! Didnít know about that. Looking into it now.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    The associated VTS slipper conversion looks great! Didnít know about that. Looking into it now.
    Itís awesome! The Robinson racing idler gear fits right on. Then you can use either the VTS, or the Avid Triad Evo slipper. Either of those are a huge improvement over any stock setup.

    The VTS is somewhat discontinued (I think), but I was able to find all the parts individually, after looking at a diagram online in an associated build manual.


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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    The associated VTS slipper conversion looks great! Didnít know about that. Looking into it now.
    I misspoke! Itís not an FLM layshaft, itís ST Racing, sometimes you have to search STRC. Hereís one on eBay...

    https://www.ebay.com/p/1001633710?ii...iABEgLP9fD_BwE


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  31. #31
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    Thanks for the extra tips mate. I did find RazorRCís YouTube vid on it where he specified the STRC top shaft.

    I have a RR idler. Solid, as is all their stuff!

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