Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    7

    CVD Axle Issues and Proline Belted 2.8 Trenchers

    Hello All,

    I purchased Proline Belted 2.8 Trenchers, as the Trenchers seem to be a popular tire choice. I also decided to buy the belted version to prevent ballooning. Upon buying the tire/wheel setup, I purchased MIP X-Duty axles for Front and Rear as the proline tires are much heavier/bigger. I applied windex to the various grub screws/pins to remove the coating that is on them as it was suggested, and then installed the items with loctite and grease as suggested. Within 4 minutes of using a 3S battery, the rear CVD's popped off the diff as the grub screws came out or various pins popped out. After that occurred I decided to try out the Traxxas CVD's as they come pre-assembled to rule out an assembly issue that I could have done something incorrectly. After 16 minutes of a 3S battery, I ended up snapping the Front Right steel axle, it snapped near one of the joints.

    Has anyone encountered aftermarket wheels causing metal CVD's to snap?

    This is a completely standard Rustler in terms of the gearing, and I was running a 5,200mAH 3S 25C Traxxas Lipo.

    Any input would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier GotNoRice's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    276
    One thing about Loctite is that it takes quite a while to fully cure. Especially in a high-torque scenario, you would be best waiting at least 24 hours after you use Loctite before assuming that it's doing it's job correctly holding anything in.

    I know I've been in the situation where I got anxious after installing new MIP CVDs on my truck using Loctite on the screws. I waited a "short" amount of time (handful of hours) and then tried it, only to end up having one or more of the grub screws back out. I've even stripped the hex out of a grub screw after becoming frustrated and trying to tighten it as tight as possible. In the end I would tighten everything back up one last time, give up, and set it back on the shelf. Then I'd try it again a few days later and everything would be solid as stone. It's enough to keep them in-place even while using those same MIP CVDs on my heavier Slash 4x4 Monster Truck with a large Mamba Monster X / Castle 2200kv (1515) motor combo on 4S. I've never used belted trenchers but I've used normal 2.8 trenchers on my truck.

    Some can get away with using Loctite without waiting the full 24 hours, but most parts don't experience as much torque as the grub screws on MIP CVDs do.

    https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content...-2018-04-09pdf
    fully cures in 24 hours

  3. #3
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    7
    I waited 3 days after applying the loctite and completing the MIP installation prior to driving the car. It is possible that the local hobby shop said that I should apply windex to the parts of the CVD where the grub screw would screw into. which I did not do. I also like the pin through the axle approach for the hex, rather than the grub screw which keeps the hex onto the axle so that is why I went with Traxxas upgraded CVD. Just trying to determine if the Traxxas snapping was bad luck, or will snap again if I replace that specific axle.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    953
    Use 91% alcohol on the parts that require loctite. This will clean any residual oil off, whether it be from the parts or your hands and such.

  5. #5
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    2,969
    I've had MIPs on my Slash 4x4 for a few years now,never had an issue. Those are technically pin screws not grubs.....be absolutely sure you get the tip of that screw into the hole in the diff output. I clean mine with brake clean and dry them completely. Assemble using the gel MIP supplies and tighten with a good hex driver(I use MIP drivers). Let them sit overnight and go. I'm running 1/8th scale power on 3 and 4s, 17mm adapters and 2.8 Trenchers....no issues with the axles at all.
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
    Rustler vxl
    Ford GT vxl

  6. #6
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by Dcuda69 View Post
    I've had MIPs on my Slash 4x4 for a few years now,never had an issue. Those are technically pin screws not grubs.....be absolutely sure you get the tip of that screw into the hole in the diff output. I clean mine with brake clean and dry them completely. Assemble using the gel MIP supplies and tighten with a good hex driver(I use MIP drivers). Let them sit overnight and go. I'm running 1/8th scale power on 3 and 4s, 17mm adapters and 2.8 Trenchers....no issues with the axles at all.
    Dcuda69, my rear axles when I had MIP didn't break, one side had the pin fall out at one of the joints, and the other side came completely off the DIFF. Do you have an issue with those pin screws on the 12mm hex? Once I applied loctite to them, I couldn't loosten those screws to remove the hex, but this time around I will buy a proper set of drivers from MIP if those drivers will remove that part properly.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    953
    The MIP drivers will no doubt remove the screws. Just bought my first one, and I will say they are made very well!! I also use RDS hex drivers, and they are well made too. You pay more for them, but IMO, they are well worth the investment!!

  8. #8
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    7
    So essentially, I will go back and uninstall the MIP axles, completely clean off all parts and assemble them again. I will then assemble those axles to the car again correctly with MIP drivers.

    After doing that, do you believe I should be fine running Belted 2.8 Trenchers? I tried sending a PM to you Dcuda, but your box is currently full.

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    304
    Make sure you put lock title on any metal to metal contact threads and let it sit overnight before running it, if possible.

  10. #10
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    2,969
    Quote Originally Posted by MadScientist04 View Post
    So essentially, I will go back and uninstall the MIP axles, completely clean off all parts and assemble them again. I will then assemble those axles to the car again correctly with MIP drivers.

    After doing that, do you believe I should be fine running Belted 2.8 Trenchers? I tried sending a PM to you Dcuda, but your box is currently full.
    Sounds like a good plan. Didn't realize my box was full...empty now.
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
    Rustler vxl
    Ford GT vxl

  11. #11
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    7
    Sorry to revive an old thread but I feel I can provide some useful information if anyone wants to run 2.8 Proline Trenchers. I found out that I have a warranty on the Traxxas Steel CVD's so after snapping one with the 2.8 Trenchers, they provided me another one free of charge. Well 6 minutes into a battery the one CVD snapped, where the outer boot would be. Went back to the local hobby shop and they gave me another new one but told me to be careful as they cant keep sending these back. That one lasted 22 minutes and also snapped, on the inside boot closer to the diff. They then provided me new CVD's again and said no more, this should not be happening.

    So essentially I am going back to stock tires until I fully rebuild my MIP CVD's, in the mean time I will run the Traxxas steel CVD with stock tires just to make sure those do not break with stock tires, because then clearly something is wrong. Just for future notice to anyone, do not use Traxxas CVD to run a 2.8 proline tire.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by MadScientist04 View Post
    Sorry to revive an old thread but I feel I can provide some useful information if anyone wants to run 2.8 Proline Trenchers. I found out that I have a warranty on the Traxxas Steel CVD's so after snapping one with the 2.8 Trenchers, they provided me another one free of charge. Well 6 minutes into a battery the one CVD snapped, where the outer boot would be. Went back to the local hobby shop and they gave me another new one but told me to be careful as they cant keep sending these back. That one lasted 22 minutes and also snapped, on the inside boot closer to the diff. They then provided me new CVD's again and said no more, this should not be happening.

    So essentially I am going back to stock tires until I fully rebuild my MIP CVD's, in the mean time I will run the Traxxas steel CVD with stock tires just to make sure those do not break with stock tires, because then clearly something is wrong. Just for future notice to anyone, do not use Traxxas CVD to run a 2.8 proline tire.
    I love Trx and most of their products. Their CVD's didnt impress me much on older ERBE 1.0 or Emaxx platforms. The newer 6s ERBE 2.0, 8s Xmaxx and Slash 2wd on 3s have not given me any problems on Trx CVDs. I would not trust them on my P4des I run MIP on those. They run 4-6s though lol.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  13. #13
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    26
    Hello,

    Do you (or anyone else) have the part # for the Traxxas CVD's? I wanna make sure I order the correct ones. Thanks in advance.

  14. #14
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    san diego cali
    Posts
    51
    Quote Originally Posted by MadScientist04 View Post
    Has anyone encountered aftermarket wheels causing metal CVD's to snap?
    I am on stock wheels and I am snapping/bending metal CVD's (tekno M6) very easily on 3S lipo.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •