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  1. #1
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Stock wheels, are they 1/2" offset?

    Anyone know if the stock wheels are considered to have a 1/2" offset? These below:

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...ra8671/p742337

    I see that Proline offers their Desperado wheels in a 1/2" offset which I want, but can't seem to find a full set of 4 wheels only for sale. Only finding them pre-mounted w tires and the rims themselves as discontinued. Any help or confirmation of stock offset is appreciated.

  2. #2
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Maybe someone can help by doing this. Can someone measure the width of the E Revo 2.0 w the stock wheels and post that along with a measurement of the Proline Badlands 3.8s. Not the MX38 but the originals. This way I can determine truck width difference and if the stocks are 1/2 inch off set. Thank you!!

  3. #3
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    They are 1/2 offset:
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...ra8672/p742340

    Zero offset were what came on the erbe v1. The summit came with 1/2 offsite wheels making it wider. I like the width, but don't care for the extra leverage they put on the pillow balls, so I usually stuck with 0-offset and lived with it being tippy.

    I run proline 3.8" trenchers now on my 2.0 with their 0-offset wheels.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  4. #4
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply olds! Did you see it in the description on Amains page? I didn't seem to see it on there.

  5. #5
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    No, just looking at them and how far the hex is sunken into the face of the wheel compared to traxxas's 0 offset wheels. They are sunk in like the geode wheels:
    https://www.rcplanet.com/traxxas-whe...ome-2-tra5671/

    You can see it pretty well in the wheel photo's:
    https://www.rcplanet.com/traxxas-whe...&isp_ref_pos=1
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  6. #6
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Copy that! Thanks for the help.

  7. #7
    RC Racer
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    Do I spy an Arrma motor in that E-Revo? lol And is that foam zip tied to the front?

  8. #8
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocketzx1 View Post
    Do I spy an Arrma motor in that E-Revo? lol And is that foam zip tied to the front?
    Yes, I just put that motor in as the 2200kv I had in it came from my ERBEv1 and had 3 years or so of 4S abuse on it. The arrma motor is a bit lower kv at 2050kv, so hoping it won't work the esc as hard even if I gear it up a bit to compensate. I'm running an old HPI F360C (rebadged MMv1) esc and I made a 1800uf x 6 cap pack for it as well. I also just added a castle 10A BEC to take more load off the esc.

    The thing on the front is a piece of reinforced silicone tubing. When I lawn dart the thing, I keep breaking the front bumper support. The silicone adds a bit of firm cushion to it and seems to help the bumper mounts last longer. I know... totally hack, but if it helps durability, I do it. Like the steel roll bar I have on there with foam on it to support the center of the body. Without that, I'd tear a body up in about 2 bash sessions... that gets old and expensive really fast. With a roll bar in there, it supports the center of the body and the foam on top allows a bit of cushion, but not so much that the body buckles and cracks at the base of the windshield like normally happens.

    When I go run my trucks, I like to run them for a few hours at a time. I typically take 2 trucks when I bash and I'll run each one 2 or 3 sets of packs which ends up being a couple hours of constant run time with another hour of fiddling around or driving to bash areas. So if I can't run 2 or 3 sets of packs through a truck in a bash session without failure of some sort, I figure out why and try to do something about it.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  9. #9
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Yes, I just put that motor in as the 2200kv I had in it came from my ERBEv1 and had 3 years or so of 4S abuse on it. The arrma motor is a bit lower kv at 2050kv, so hoping it won't work the esc as hard even if I gear it up a bit to compensate. I'm running an old HPI F360C (rebadged MMv1) esc and I made a 1800uf x 6 cap pack for it as well. I also just added a castle 10A BEC to take more load off the esc.

    The thing on the front is a piece of reinforced silicone tubing. When I lawn dart the thing, I keep breaking the front bumper support. The silicone adds a bit of firm cushion to it and seems to help the bumper mounts last longer. I know... totally hack, but if it helps durability, I do it. Like the steel roll bar I have on there with foam on it to support the center of the body. Without that, I'd tear a body up in about 2 bash sessions... that gets old and expensive really fast. With a roll bar in there, it supports the center of the body and the foam on top allows a bit of cushion, but not so much that the body buckles and cracks at the base of the windshield like normally happens.

    When I go run my trucks, I like to run them for a few hours at a time. I typically take 2 trucks when I bash and I'll run each one 2 or 3 sets of packs which ends up being a couple hours of constant run time with another hour of fiddling around or driving to bash areas. So if I can't run 2 or 3 sets of packs through a truck in a bash session without failure of some sort, I figure out why and try to do something about it.
    Hey those motors are pretty good. If it works for what you need then why not use it. And I like that idea about using that tubing for the front and roll bar. Those are some great ideas to help save money on broken parts!


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