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  1. #1
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    Question X-Maxx Upgrades - Which are most important?

    Hi folks
    I am planning on getting the X-Maxx 8S new in a couple of weeks, and I've read some info on toe links breaking easily, hinge pins popping out, ESC's catching on fire, gears stripping etc.

    So I'd like to get your opinion on the top 5 - 10 upgrades that you recommend doing before running the truck to hard as I would much rather upgrade and have longer running time from the get go. The stock parts can always be kept as spares.

    Looking forward to the feedback.
    Slash 4x4 VXL
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  2. #2
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    Here are all my upgrades - not many, but for me they were the most essential.
    I did end up removing the GPS and the shroud though.

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...Upgrades-Build

    I haven't had any issues with toe links, hinge pins or gears stripping, and until I have any problems I'll leave the stock on the truck for now.
    https://www.youtube.com/iftibashir

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by IftiBashir View Post
    Here are all my upgrades - not many, but for me they were the most essential.
    I did end up removing the GPS and the shroud though.

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...Upgrades-Build

    I haven't had any issues with toe links, hinge pins or gears stripping, and until I have any problems I'll leave the stock on the truck for now.
    Awesome thanks! And electronics other than the 2085X servo upgrade, do you run stock ESC and motor? If so, do you run 8S? if so, have you had any problems with motor heat or ESC giving problems?
    Slash 4x4 VXL
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  4. #4
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    My list is pretty short.
    1 - Washers for the body screws since they will pull through
    2 - RPM rear hubs
    3 - Battery straps over the clips. I haven't done this yet out of laziness but it's worrisome having the batteries fly out on bad/rough landings.

    If you are changing the gearing at all, ditch the motor pin system and set the gear mesh manually. I shattered a 46t spur my second time driving, but haven't had issues since removing the pins. Otherwise the truck is tough as is.

  5. #5
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    So the list I had in mind was:
    1. Dusty Motors cover
    2. Aluminum toe links
    3. RPM rear axle carriers
    4. RPM threaded hinge pins
    5. Pro-Line PRO-Arms
    6. Body saver kit
    7. 2085X Servo
    8. Hobbywing MAX5/MAX6 depending on whether I change the motor
    9. Hobbywing 800kv motor (not sure of this one yet)


    What's the take on this?



    *Per Traxxas, any reference to a body that won't break is not allowed to be referenced here in the forum due to copyright violations.*
    Last edited by Double G; 11-14-2019 at 08:06 AM.
    Slash 4x4 VXL
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  6. #6
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    Stock a- arms are great, get a full set of Pro-line badland tires instead.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeillZA View Post
    Awesome thanks! And electronics other than the 2085X servo upgrade, do you run stock ESC and motor? If so, do you run 8S? if so, have you had any problems with motor heat or ESC giving problems?
    Yes Im still running stock motor and ESC, and I run 2 Traxxas 67600mAh 4S batteries, so 8S total. Never had any problems with electronics so far......
    https://www.youtube.com/iftibashir

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Townie View Post
    Stock a- arms are great, get a full set of Pro-line badland tires instead.
    I've heard that the Pro-Line Badlands are quite harder than stock which could result in more damage when doing jumps?
    Slash 4x4 VXL
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by IftiBashir View Post
    Yes Im still running stock motor and ESC, and I run 2 Traxxas 67600mAh 4S batteries, so 8S total. Never had any problems with electronics so far......
    That's good to hear, there seems to be very mixed reviews on the stock electronics so I'm in two mind about upgrading it to a Hobbywing Combo, perhaps instead of going the MAX5/800kv route I should just look at the MAX6 with the stock motor.
    Slash 4x4 VXL
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeillZA View Post
    That's good to hear, there seems to be very mixed reviews on the stock electronics so I'm in two mind about upgrading it to a Hobbywing Combo, perhaps instead of going the MAX5/800kv route I should just look at the MAX6 with the stock motor.
    Why don't you use stock for now and upgrade if you need to later? That's what Im doing. If stock should fail I'll use that as an excuse to upgrade. For now, I see no need to spend the extra money.
    https://www.youtube.com/iftibashir

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by IftiBashir View Post
    Why don't you use stock for now and upgrade if you need to later? That's what Im doing. If stock should fail I'll use that as an excuse to upgrade. For now, I see no need to spend the extra money.
    Good point, I just don't want my new rig to go up in flames
    Slash 4x4 VXL
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeillZA View Post
    I've heard that the Pro-Line Badlands are quite harder than stock which could result in more damage when doing jumps?
    That's a good point, stock tires is really good too. But if you search the forum, everyone recommend the Badlands tires set, and there is a reason for it. It just grips and not balloon, plus it last a long long time, the tires itself changes how the Xmaxxx drives totally, just worth it more than any after market A-Arms if you are doing any sort of upgrading. So I recommend a set with 2085X servo to try out.

    I hated my dusty motor shroud. But you might want it if you want a clearner truck.

  13. #13
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    The Badlands are noticeably harder than the stock. I use them on street runs or other times when I'm not jumping super high. Switch to the soft stock tires when I'm bashing hard.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Townie View Post
    That's a good point, stock tires is really good too. But if you search the forum, everyone recommend the Badlands tires set, and there is a reason for it. It just grips and not balloon, plus it last a long long time, the tires itself changes how the Xmaxxx drives totally, just worth it more than any after market A-Arms if you are doing any sort of upgrading. So I recommend a set with 2085X servo to try out.

    I hated my dusty motor shroud. But you might want it if you want a clearner truck.
    Thanks for the feedback man. Perhaps then just a spare set of stock A-arms. Will give the badlands a go after using the Louise Pioneers that I already have.

    What was the issue for you on the shroud?
    Slash 4x4 VXL
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ggte496j View Post
    The Badlands are noticeably harder than the stock. I use them on street runs or other times when I'm not jumping super high. Switch to the soft stock tires when I'm bashing hard.
    That would definitely be my approach as well.
    Slash 4x4 VXL
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeillZA View Post
    Thanks for the feedback man. Perhaps then just a spare set of stock A-arms. Will give the badlands a go after using the Louise Pioneers that I already have.

    What was the issue for you on the shroud?
    It traps heat inside the shroud. Warmer Motor/ESC/Battery,(It's a problem in summer, but not in winter). And the zipper makes it harder to get the battery out. Very annoying to me, the zipper position/length just sucks. Maybe it would be better if you mod the battery tray with Velcro stripe, but i donno, I still use stock battery holder.

    Also it uses Velcro tape around the shroud to stick to the chassic, the bad luck i have to replace the shock towers THREE times within a short time, and have to apply Velcro tape everytime just annoyed me even more.

    And the body rub against the shroud on the chassic side rail, My teared up body just cuts a hole on the shroud there.

    The most annoying #1 is getting and battery in and out every bash. But it did keep the inside VERY clean in winter with all that snow. But i don't run in snow anymore. That's why i ditched it.

    And the front diff housing might be worth upgrading too. The stock is fine, but a metal front diffs cover is even better. And GPM Aluminum Front Skid Plate too. . I feels like those will strengthen the front a lot. That's what i will be getting if i really want to upgrade later.

    PS: the Pro-line Brute body comes with sticker, but not the oversea one. . I rather have that instead of my black v3 oversear body. I had to trimmed the front of my v3 so it don't rub against the tires when shock compressed and turning. Which makes it even uglier without stickers.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeillZA View Post
    That's good to hear, there seems to be very mixed reviews on the stock electronics so I'm in two mind about upgrading it to a Hobbywing Combo, perhaps instead of going the MAX5/800kv route I should just look at the MAX6 with the stock motor.
    Actually, RPM rear hub oversize bearing is a must. I would go that first, than a Pro-line unbreakable body, then a Max6 and go from there, the rest is just break and tear repairs only. The Traxxas plastic parts is cheap to replace.

    PS: the stock gearing 18/54 pins mesh seems too tight. Either ditch the pins system and set the mesh yourself, or try other gearing with that pins system.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Townie View Post
    It traps heat inside the shroud. Warmer Motor/ESC/Battery,(It's a problem in summer, but not in winter). And the zipper makes it harder to get the battery out. Very annoying to me, the zipper position/length just sucks. Maybe it would be better if you mod the battery tray with Velcro stripe, but i donno, I still use stock battery holder.

    Also it uses Velcro tape around the shroud to stick to the chassic, the bad luck i have to replace the shock towers THREE times within a short time, and have to apply Velcro tape everytime just annoyed me even more.

    And the body rub against the shroud on the chassic side rail, My teared up body just cuts a hole on the shroud there.

    The most annoying #1 is getting and battery in and out every bash. But it did keep the inside VERY clean in winter with all that snow. But i don't run in snow anymore. That's why i ditched it.

    And the front diff housing might be worth upgrading too. The stock is fine, but a metal front diffs cover is even better. And GPM Aluminum Front Skid Plate too. . I feels like those will strengthen the front a lot. That's what i will be getting if i really want to upgrade later.

    PS: the Pro-line Brute body comes with sticker, but not the oversea one. . I rather have that instead of my black v3 oversear body. I had to trimmed the front of my v3 so it don't rub against the tires when shock compressed and turning. Which makes it even uglier without stickers.
    I was wondering how well ventilated it is, but if it traps heat inside I am also not sure if I would get it. More heat = shorter run times which I want to try and avoid. Noted on the skid plate, I will have a look on Amain Hobbies. As I am all the way in South Africa I need to select my providers carefully so I don't spend a small fortune on shipping fees So I try get as many parts as possible in one go.

    I also saw the Brute, will settle on that then. Thanks for the advice!
    Slash 4x4 VXL
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Townie View Post
    Actually, RPM rear hub oversize bearing is a must. I would go that first, than a Pro-line unbreakable body, then a Max6 and go from there, the rest is just break and tear repairs only. The Traxxas plastic parts is cheap to replace.

    PS: the stock gearing 18/54 pins mesh seems too tight. Either ditch the pins system and set the mesh yourself, or try other gearing with that pins system.
    Not sure I understand the pins system? I was wanting t upgrade to a 30/35 gearing with some 1.5 mod gears from WFO rc racing. RPM axle carriers with oversize bearings is also one of those upgrades I thought I'd do before even running the truck.
    Slash 4x4 VXL
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeillZA View Post
    Not sure I understand the pins system? I was wanting t upgrade to a 30/35 gearing with some 1.5 mod gears from WFO rc racing. RPM axle carriers with oversize bearings is also one of those upgrades I thought I'd do before even running the truck.
    Check out the "Detail", and click on the Motor, this explain a lot with pictures. Some like me still use the pin system, but some just have bad luck with them.
    https://traxxas.com/products/landing/77076-4-X-Maxx/

    I think it is a REALLY good idea to upgrade to that 1.5 mod gears, I was reading about that a month ago. You can use the stock pinion/spur gear cover with it too, I think that's just way better than those 800kv with expose gears..traxxas is just the best to have a cover to shield those gears. I will put that on my upgrade list later too, coz I have been breaking many spurs gears. It got expensive quick, then I just start to use plastic spur now, which cost about 1/5 of metal, but stripe way easier..

    I had my Xmaxx for 2 years now, so I really suggest getting the Max6 first, then brute body right away, (maybe the 2085x too). So you can sell the vxl-8s and that beautiful stock body to cover some cost or keep for other uses. Nothing against them, but max6 is just drop-in and solid, period!

    So you don't have any hobby shop around you? How about ebay? JennyRC on ebay has great price for stock parts.

    PS: In case you missed this, many owners does not recommend upgrade to that expensive metal steering bell crank if you are bashing hard. Maybe it takes away the flex, and cause many breakage in the front for those that did. Stick with the stock, and just replace if it break, super cheap to replace.
    Last edited by Townie; 11-15-2019 at 03:47 AM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Townie View Post
    Check out the "Detail", and click on the Motor, this explain a lot with pictures. Some like me still use the pin system, but some just have bad luck with them.
    https://traxxas.com/products/landing/77076-4-X-Maxx/

    I think it is a REALLY good idea to upgrade to that 1.5 mod gears, I was reading about that a month ago. You can use the stock pinion/spur gear cover with it too, I think that's just way better than those 800kv with expose gears..traxxas is just the best to have a cover to shield those gears. I will put that on my upgrade list later too, coz I have been breaking many spurs gears. It got expensive quick, then I just start to use plastic spur now, which cost about 1/5 of metal, but stripe way easier..

    I had my Xmaxx for 2 years now, so I really suggest getting the Max6 first, then brute body right away, (maybe the 2085x too). So you can sell the vxl-8s and that beautiful stock body to cover some cost or keep for other uses. Nothing against them, but max6 is just drop-in and solid, period!

    So you don't have any hobby shop around you? How about ebay? JennyRC on ebay has great price for stock parts.

    PS: In case you missed this, many owners does not recommend upgrade to that expensive metal steering bell crank if you are bashing hard. Maybe it takes away the flex, and cause many breakage in the front for those that did. Stick with the stock, and just replace if it break, super cheap to replace.
    For my stock parts I have a LHS that sells them (can't ship Traxxas stock parts without going through a local distributor), but their aftermarket parts are limited, so all aftermarket I ship in from the US, mostly through Amain Hobbies. Thanks for the tip! Do you reckon the 30/35 gear ratio would work on the stock motor as well?
    Slash 4x4 VXL
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  22. #22
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    stock motor - 20/46 gears is bout as high you can go without hitting LVC
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeillZA View Post
    For my stock parts I have a /HS that sells them (can't ship Traxxas stock parts without going through a local distributor), but their aftermarket parts are limited, so all aftermarket I ship in from the US, mostly through Amain Hobbies. Thanks for the tip! Do you reckon the 30/35 gear ratio would work on the stock motor as well?
    I don't recall the gearing chart I saw for the 1.5 gears, 30/35 is the speed run gear? I personal like the 18-20/50 stock mod1 gearing, that has balance of speed and temps. Maybe you can ask the seller what 30/35 is equal to in speed, compare to the mod1 stock gearing. And make sure your 1.5 gear is for your stock motor(5mm shaft), and the after market motor like 800kv is 8mm shaft.
    Those 20+/46 gearing like CrazyXMAXX mention is just insanely fast. Most report the motor could handle up to 22/46. But they use it for speed run mostly. Not really ideal for bashing around, I have tried that once, It overheat in few passes,and taking the body off while doing that seems fine, but that's just ugly to bash without the body on if you know what I mean, lol..
    Highly recommend 20/50.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyXMAXX View Post
    stock motor - 20/46 gears is bout as high you can go without hitting LVC
    ah ha not LVC - TSD thermal shutdown

    30/35 might be fast for 1 short run - not suggested
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  25. #25
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    I've only had my X-Maxx for over a month and run it twice a week. As a lot of people have reported, I have bad luck with the Badland tires. 2 of the 3 times I've run them I have broken stuff (lower suspension arm, steering block and front driveshaft). On top of that I don't like the decrease in agility over small jumps when I need to make fast corrections before landing. It does seem like they'll last a long time on pavement and they allow the truck to slide around, but it wasn't my intention to use my X-Maxx for pavement duty. I regret having purchased them. I just wish the foam in the stock tires was a little tougher/harder.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeillZA View Post
    Hi folks
    I am planning on getting the X-Maxx 8S new in a couple of weeks, and I've read some info on toe links breaking easily, hinge pins popping out, ESC's catching on fire, gears stripping etc.

    So I'd like to get your opinion on the top 5 - 10 upgrades that you recommend doing before running the truck to hard as I would much rather upgrade and have longer running time from the get go. The stock parts can always be kept as spares.

    Looking forward to the feedback.
    Reinforce your body
    Buy your own body savers
    Front and rear bumper supports
    Save your money for two sets of batteries


    I have threads with videos and pictures of my mods on this forum. Do those and your truck will be fun.
    Catch my videos at youtube.com/c/offworkhours

  27. #27
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    My mostly stock truck is now a tank...
    Here's all I did to get it that way:


    TiNi shock shafts
    Rpm rear carriers with oversized bearings
    2085x servo (stock was going fine but a very nice member here hooked me up 8)
    Hot racing 50t spur(gave up on stock gears. Don't use the pin system for gear mesh)

    The stock eac and motor are just fine. They stopped catching fire a long time ago lol.
    I love the stock tires. My buddy ran his xmaxx with mine with the proline tires. The stock tires performed better with stock trucks. If yo boost the power then maybe the stock tires will be over taxed, but with the stock motor the stock tires are fine.

    Body... Everybody gets body washers. I didn't. I just shoogoo'd the cage into the body, reinforced the bed and have made many repairs with scrap lexan and goo. It's not pretty, and it's about a pound heaver, but my original body is solid after 2 years of heavy abuse.

    I've broken 2 suspension arms, a stock rear bearing carrier, a front c block, and 2 steering links since I've owned it and I'm very hard on the truck. That was only 35$ in parts that failed in all those runs. I keep a left and right Lower arm, cblocks, ft carriers and steering links as spares. It's just much cheaper to replace the stock parts... Which last a long time.

    I would put upgrade money into the heavier springs and oil that this truck really needs...
    Last edited by rag6; 11-25-2019 at 06:51 PM.
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  28. #28
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    Id say the rear bearing carriers and body work of some type. I went with the Brute body. Expensive, but worth it IMO. My truck is no where close to stock, but as the title states, most important.


    Somehow builds are never done....

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivejumpfly View Post
    Reinforce your body
    Buy your own body savers
    Front and rear bumper supports
    Save your money for two sets of batteries


    I have threads with videos and pictures of my mods on this forum. Do those and your truck will be fun.
    Would you do normal washers over the body saver kit? Batteries I excluded from my budget for upgrades as it is something I can use in multiple vehicles.

    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    My mostly stock truck is now a tank...
    Here's all I did to get it that way:


    TiNi shock shafts
    Rpm rear carriers with oversized bearings
    2085x servo (stock was going fine but a very nice member here hooked me up 8)
    Hot racing 50t spur(gave up on stock gears. Don't use the pin system for gear mesh)

    The stock eac and motor are just fine. They stopped catching fire a long time ago lol.
    I love the stock tires. My buddy ran his xmaxx with mine with the proline tires. The stock tires performed better with stock trucks. If yo boost the power then maybe the stock tires will be over taxed, but with the stock motor the stock tires are fine.

    Body... Everybody gets body washers. I didn't. I just shoogoo'd the cage into the body, reinforced the bed and have made many repairs with scrap lexan and goo. It's not pretty, and it's about a pound heaver, but my original body is solid after 2 years of heavy abuse.

    I've broken 2 suspension arms, a stock rear bearing carrier, a front c block, and 2 steering links since I've owned it and I'm very hard on the truck. That was only 35$ in parts that failed in all those runs. I keep a left and right Lower arm, cblocks, ft carriers and steering links as spares. It's just much cheaper to replace the stock parts... Which last a long time.

    I would put upgrade money into the heavier springs and oil that this truck really needs...
    Thanks for the feedback. I line the entire interior of all of my RC bodies with duct tape which keeps them from tearing up and it works great. Great tip on spares to keep, I'll definitely stock up on those. What spring and oil combo do you run in the front and back?

    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Id say the rear bearing carriers and body work of some type. I went with the Brute body. Expensive, but worth it IMO. My truck is no where close to stock, but as the title states, most important.


    Somehow builds are never done....
    What upgrade on your truck has given you the most fun?
    Last edited by Double G; 11-26-2019 at 08:33 AM. Reason: merge, clutter clean-up
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeillZA View Post
    What upgrade on your truck has given you the most fun?
    Never had a stock truck, built mine from scratch. Id say having nearly unlimited gearing choices due to the motor and esc Im running, makes this truck fast and powerful.


    Somehow builds are never done....

  31. #31
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    Hi all
    Just to give some feedback, I am picking up my X-Maxx orange edition on Monday and am suuuuper excited. I told myself I would wrap it and leave it under the Christmas tree and only open it on the 25th, but I don't know if I will be able to wait that long

    Below is the list of upgrades I've gotten for now, I will probably get the Pro-Line Bash body and Hobbywing Max5/800kv combo next. But this is it for now:

    - Hot Racing Traxxas Revo Ball Type Aluminum Shock Ends (Blue)
    - Hot Racing Traxxas X-Maxx Aluminum Gearbox Cover (Black)
    - Hot Racing Traxxas X-Maxx Aluminum Steering Toe Link Set (Black) (2)
    - Pro-Line X-Maxx Dual Rate Spring Assortment
    - Pro-Line PRO-Arms X-MAXX Upper & Lower Arm Kit
    - Pro-Line PRO-Hubs X-MAXX Hub Carrier Set w/Oversize Inner Bearings
    - Pro-Line X-MAXX PRO-Armor Front Bumper w/4" LED Light Bar Mount
    - ProTek RC Steel Mod 1 Pinion Gear (5mm Bore) (16T)
    - ProTek RC Steel Mod 1 Pinion Gear (5mm Bore) (17T)
    - RPM X-Maxx Threaded Hinge Pin Set
    - RPM X-Maxx Body Savers
    - FastEddy Traxxas X-Maxx Bearing Kit
    - Hot Racing X-Maxx Steel Mod 1 Spur Gear (54T)
    - Hot Racing Aluminum Shock Upgrade Kit X-Maxx (2)

    Looking forward getting all of these on the beast and letting it loose!
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  32. #32
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    I use 1.4springs and 45wt oil in front, and 1.5 springs and 60 wt oil in rear...
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

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