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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Differences between Brushless Edition and 2.0 E-Revo

    Hey everyone. Iím going to step up to 6s and Iím looking at maybe getting, in good condition, E-Revo brushless edition for my Christmas gift

    The main thing Iím not familiar with is just what differences are there between the 2.0 and the brushless edition E-Revo. I know the 2.0 has the new clip less body mount, new tires. What else has changed?

    Or should I just get the 2.0 and not mess with the brushless edition.


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  2. #2
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Dec 2003
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    Dekalb, IL
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    Get the 2.0. The 1.0 can't really deal with 6S as well.

    2.0 upgrades off the top of my head:
    front/rear diffs are larger/more capable
    center diff exists
    uses cush drive instead of slipper on the spur
    Mod1/1M spur/pinion (I think the old one was .8M instead of 1M)
    stronger arms, axle carriers
    steel outer cvd's, larger carrier bearings (I think)
    Longer pushrod/tierod ends with more material
    stock front/rear chassis braces (cages over the shocks)
    17mm 1/8th scale type hubs vs "adapters" that hang over 6mm threads and get sloppy over time

    The motor/esc differ as well, but since I got my 2.0 as a slider, I can't say if it's better than the MXL-6s/2200kv from the original or not.

    I had the v1 for almost 3 years, then a few months ago got a 2.0 roller. I have beat on that thing like it owes me money since and it has held up great. With the v1, I was wearing through axle sliders, breaking stock arms/carriers on a relatively frequent basis. I went with RPM arms/carriers/truetrack on the rear and that helped with breakages, but I still had to keep an eye on the outer axles and replace them about once a year due to the yokes stretching/wearing. I only ever ran it on 4S.

    Now I only run it on 6S and it's holding up very well. I jump it further and higher than I ever did on 4S and it still holds up well. I do have a few upgrades on it to suit my driving a bit better.

    My setup on the 2.0:
    Hard anno'd GTR shocks with VDK #2/#3 pistons r/f with 60/70wt oil r/f and VG Dual rate springs
    Alloy p2 rockers (carried over from my v1)
    Made a heavy duty rear chassis brace
    t-bone skids/wheelie bar (carried over from my v1)
    Single servo (carried over from my v1)
    HD Servo Saver Spring (not sure what it had)
    Rear shock limiting cables (carried over from my v1)
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    Tennessee
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Get the 2.0. The 1.0 can't really deal with 6S as well.

    2.0 upgrades off the top of my head:
    front/rear diffs are larger/more capable
    center diff exists
    uses cush drive instead of slipper on the spur
    Mod1/1M spur/pinion (I think the old one was .8M instead of 1M)
    stronger arms, axle carriers
    steel outer cvd's, larger carrier bearings (I think)
    Longer pushrod/tierod ends with more material
    stock front/rear chassis braces (cages over the shocks)
    17mm 1/8th scale type hubs vs "adapters" that hang over 6mm threads and get sloppy over time

    The motor/esc differ as well, but since I got my 2.0 as a slider, I can't say if it's better than the MXL-6s/2200kv from the original or not.

    I had the v1 for almost 3 years, then a few months ago got a 2.0 roller. I have beat on that thing like it owes me money since and it has held up great. With the v1, I was wearing through axle sliders, breaking stock arms/carriers on a relatively frequent basis. I went with RPM arms/carriers/truetrack on the rear and that helped with breakages, but I still had to keep an eye on the outer axles and replace them about once a year due to the yokes stretching/wearing. I only ever ran it on 4S.

    Now I only run it on 6S and it's holding up very well. I jump it further and higher than I ever did on 4S and it still holds up well. I do have a few upgrades on it to suit my driving a bit better.

    My setup on the 2.0:
    Hard anno'd GTR shocks with VDK #2/#3 pistons r/f with 60/70wt oil r/f and VG Dual rate springs
    Alloy p2 rockers (carried over from my v1)
    Made a heavy duty rear chassis brace
    t-bone skids/wheelie bar (carried over from my v1)
    Single servo (carried over from my v1)
    HD Servo Saver Spring (not sure what it had)
    Rear shock limiting cables (carried over from my v1)
    Oh wow. I didnít realize so much was different between the 2 versions. Iíll just plan on getting a 2.0 E-Revo then. Thanks!


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  4. #4
    RC Champion
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    Apr 2018
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    1,013
    The main thing that got me bad on the V1 ERBE, was diffs. I went through diffs almost every run even on 4s. They just wouldnít hold up to even mild bashing. I ended up with a $1200 parts bin for a V1 ERBE. It just became too expensive to run reliably. As said, the 2.0 is what the V1 should have been. They really revamped the 2.0 and made some necessary changes. Iím sure it will hold up better then the V1, shoot even sitting still the V1 would about blow diffs LOL. Spent a lot of time/money on mine and it just let me down. Guess I could have gotten the FLM diffs and had better luck, but with as much as I put into it, I just couldnít enjoy it. Went back to my trusty emaxx and had loads more fun. Havenít driven a 2.0, bit judging from the redesign, it should be a solid performer. Just my 2 pennies worth. Donít spend your money on the V1, youíll be upset you did!! Get the 2.0 as said above.

  5. #5
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Dec 2003
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    Dekalb, IL
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    I'm guessing my v1 diffs lasted because I dialed the punch down quite a bit and had a general habit of rolling on the throttle. I never blew a diff in my v1. I'd replace the bearings once a year, but other than that, I never even opened the cups. I even bought the newer cups that had the steel inserts for the cross pin, but never used them. I always ran 4S in it.

    After many years, the cup in one of my nitro revo's finally gave up and the cross pin ground through the case. I can't recall if I put the newer cup in it or not when I replaced it.

    Even on the 2.0, I have the punch dialed way down. I just don't see the point in shocking the entire system every time I touch the throttle. Unless standing back flips are what your goal is, softening the throttle tip in helps wear and tear in general. The ESC I'm using now is an old rebadged MMv1 and it had issues with it's firmware where it was allowing way too much punch and was frying the caps. Then they released a new firmware with a much softer preset punch you can't even adjust. Even that was a bit too aggressive for my taste, especially the brakes, so I used the castle software to adjust the throttle and brake curves a bit.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
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    Oct 2015
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    960
    Yes, I agree, the 2.0 is big upgrade. I had a V1 E-Revo and all it did was break. My 2.0 was doing fine until I broke something in the suspension, but that could have been prevented with limiting straps.
    Catch my videos at youtube.com/c/offworkhours

  7. #7
    RC Racer
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    Oct 2018
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    Tennessee
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    All this info is great. Thank you all for sharing it with me. As someone who is still getting their feet wet in this hobby again, all the advice/info helps.


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