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  1. #1
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    126

    Rustler 4x4 steering blocks, RPM plastic or Aluminum

    So I broke my first stock plastic piece yesterday, was trying to do some speed runs on 4s and had a 40+ foot cart wheel. Broke the left front steering block, and of course want to know everyoneís thoughts on what to get for a replacement, RPM plastic or Aluminum?

    I can get the aluminum caster blocks and steering blocks for around 40 on eBay and the aluminum rear hubs for about 15 on eBay also.

    But I want to know what you guys like better and why you like it. I always appreciate your advice!


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  2. #2
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    249
    Personally I find the alloy c-hubs indispensable but prefer plastic to house bearings if possible.

    The alloy c hubs eliminate some of the steering play from too much flexibility in the plastic parts.

    I only use the front XO-1 alloy steering hubs because the Tekno plastic ones break at the king pin locations.

    Alloy can be less forgiving on bearings, and if a bearing goes bad itís more expensive when it damages a purdy alloy part.

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    126
    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Personally I find the alloy c-hubs indispensable but prefer plastic to house bearings if possible.

    The alloy c hubs eliminate some of the steering play from too much flexibility in the plastic parts.

    I only use the front XO-1 alloy steering hubs because the Tekno plastic ones break at the king pin locations.

    Alloy can be less forgiving on bearings, and if a bearing goes bad itís more expensive when it damages a purdy alloy part.
    Good to know! I havenít used many aluminum parts on any of my rcs, and wasnít sure if the increase in cost is worth it.


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  4. #4
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    249
    Platistic is good because its light, and it flexes and returns back. Alloy can transfer and increase forces to where they will break something else.

    Alloy is good in select places where the plastic isnít up to the job though.

    On my 1/10ís I have alloy...

    Shock caps on the plastic shocks
    C-hubs
    Front steering knuckles
    Bellcrank and servo arm
    Motor mount and slipper bushing (King Headz)
    Rear wheelie bar lower chassis plate (hot racing) (the screws always pull through the plastic here)
    17mm hexes

    And thatís it. This seems to be a good balance in my personal experience for off-road bashing.

    If you wanted an on road speed run machine though things might be different? The alloy A arms might be more rigid at speed, and alloy shock towers etc might add weight that helps with stability? Not really sure on that front. But for bashing, I find the above to be working nicely.

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