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Thread: Steering issues

  1. #1
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    Steering issues

    Hello all,

    Before my truck steered equally left and right, and drove straight with trim setting on radio zerod out. Recently I had to adjust the trim on the radio about half from full clockwise lock. And also now it turns sharp left, but not near as sharp turning right. Should this be some mechanical issue, or electronic most likely?

    Yes I have had many crashes, I don't recall a crash all of a sudden causing this but who knows.

    What are the first things I should check?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by realdeal64 View Post
    Hello all,

    Before my truck steered equally left and right, and drove straight with trim setting on radio zerod out. Recently I had to adjust the trim on the radio about half from full clockwise lock. And also now it turns sharp left, but not near as sharp turning right. Should this be some mechanical issue, or electronic most likely?

    Yes I have had many crashes, I don't recall a crash all of a sudden causing this but who knows.

    What are the first things I should check?
    Check the lower front toe links. The rod ends should be equal distance from center on both sides. You may also have a partially broken servo saver.


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  3. #3
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    Remove the servo horn and check for full movement of the servo. Then manually move the steering to verify it can move lock-to-lock with no resistance and nothing is broken.
    The Super Derecho

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    Forgot to add, the inside wheel does have a visually sharper angle at full lock turning one way vs the other, but wasn't sure what happend, nothing appeared broken. I'll check that servo saver.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by realdeal64 View Post
    Forgot to add, the inside wheel does have a visually sharper angle at full lock turning one way vs the other, but wasn't sure what happend, nothing appeared broken. I'll check that servo saver.
    Sometimes after a crash, the threaded rod just gets rammed inside the plastic rod end. If thatís the case, replacing the end is pretty easy. I keep a lot of those on hand and find that I have to swap them out every few months or so.


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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    Sometimes after a crash, the threaded rod just gets rammed inside the plastic rod end. If thatís the case, replacing the end is pretty easy. I keep a lot of those on hand and find that I have to swap them out every few months or so.


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    Some more info, I can push gently and manually get wheels to turn freely more on the one side that doesn't turn as sharp, versus just using the radio to turn.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by realdeal64 View Post
    Some more info, I can push gently and manually get wheels to turn freely more on the one side that doesn't turn as sharp, versus just using the radio to turn.
    Are you using the stock servo saver? It sounds like maybe the plastic splines were marred. Have you inspected it closely?


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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    Are you using the stock servo saver? It sounds like maybe the plastic splines were marred. Have you inspected it closely?


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    I believe the servo saver skiped a tooth, I pulled it off and put it back on straight up and down and it turns equally now! One of my wheels seems to tow out more than the other though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by realdeal64 View Post
    I believe the servo saver skiped a tooth, I pulled it off and put it back on straight up and down and it turns equally now! One of my wheels seems to tow out more than the other though.
    Nice! Iíd recommend keeping a couple of extras on hand. They do tend to take a beating on front end impacts.

    Also, I highly recommend getting a digital caliper so that you can quickly measure your linkages.


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  10. #10
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    I had this same problem, wheels cranked more on way than the other and the server saver was broken. I swapped in an alloy bellcrank and cranked its saver all the way down, with no plastic bits it should all stay nice and tight. Figure this way I wont blow another one out from all those cartwheels

    I do have a beefed up servo and use a metal horn as well which I think are good upgrades.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
    I had this same problem, wheels cranked more on way than the other and the server saver was broken. I swapped in an alloy bellcrank and cranked its saver all the way down, with no plastic bits it should all stay nice and tight. Figure this way I wont blow another one out from all those cartwheels

    I do have a beefed up servo and use a metal horn as well which I think are good upgrades.

    I have an alloy horn on our crawler and itís great, but I read on one of these threads a while back, that itís not a bad idea to have a plastic servo saver on a cartwheeling basher, that way you run a little less risk of damaging servo gears.

    Iíve replaced two this year on the Rustler. If Iíd had a metal horn, who knows...


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  12. #12
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    It's a calculated risk - I invested in a fairly beefy, all metal, servo that *should* be able to handle it and there is still a fair amount of flex in the overall steering systems to absorb some shock. I wouldn't suggest running w/o a saver without a strong servo behind it and I should probably at least test if opening it up a bit is detrimental to handling.

    If it goes pear shaped... lesson finally learned

    What servo gears have you damaged? I had good luck with the cheap "20kg" metal geared ones as a starter before I decided I wanted something a bit higher end (but still reasonable). The stock Traxxas servo lasted me less than 2 battery packs on day 1.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
    It's a calculated risk - I invested in a fairly beefy, all metal, servo that *should* be able to handle it and there is still a fair amount of flex in the overall steering systems to absorb some shock. I wouldn't suggest running w/o a saver without a strong servo behind it and I should probably at least test if opening it up a bit is detrimental to handling.

    If it goes pear shaped... lesson finally learned

    What servo gears have you damaged? I had good luck with the cheap "20kg" metal geared ones as a starter before I decided I wanted something a bit higher end (but still reasonable). The stock Traxxas servo lasted me less than 2 battery packs on day 1.
    A little flex helps for sure! The only servo that I blew up was in our TRX-4 Sport. The stock plastic horn stripped out during its first run at the indoor course. They sold me a metal replacement, which has been great, but the stock servo finally died after a dozen or so packs.

    Iíve been using the Savox sw-1210sg in a couple different vehicles, and so far like it quite a bit.


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