Results 1 to 19 of 19

Thread: Good upgrades?

  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Posts
    8

    Good upgrades?

    I just got a stampede 4x4 vxl and I was wondering what are some good upgrades to do to it?

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    320
    Nice and Congrats on your Pede!!
    I suggest:
    - RPM front bumper (protect A-arms, and other areas
    -Traxxas fan
    -Aluminum bearing adapter for Slipper
    -RPM shock towers
    -Traxxas aluminum shock caps


    I think these are most important. Then go from there. Go easy on aluminum upgrade. The steering, Front Chub, rear hub, are ok. Tires!!
    New body and paint!

    Some others might have good suggestion. Make sure you get good batteries and a good charger!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    Posts
    1,180
    It isn't the cheap upgrade but worth every penny. Stainless Steel bearing and fasteners they are the only missing component to the water proofness of most every Traxxas model.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier JatoTheRipper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    826
    Fast Eddy has started offering all stainless steel bearings for crawlers. Hopefully they do the same for bashers.

  5. #5
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Posts
    8
    Sounds expensive but good!

  6. #6
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,580
    Stainless steel screws are horrible. They are very soft, strip easy and break easy. I'd rather have a bit of rust than having stripped screws constantly or screws that snap off and leave a stump in a part that I can't remove.

    If your running 2S, then you will likely want to get cvd's for the rear. If you want to run 3S, then you really need to get cvd's for all 4. Some run tekno's, others do a conversion to the XL1 cvd's, I went with MIP X-Duty's 2 years ago and haven't had an issue. Even with 2S, I was going through sliders at least one a bash session. Got old, fast.

    Get some aluminum shock caps as well, will help extend the life of the stock ultra shocks.

    I ended up going with GTR's and dubro monster duty ball ends on the front to raise it up a bit as they are shorter than stock shocks. Also have vdk drilled out 1/16'th with 70wt oil and VG dual rate springs. I really air my stampede out now without thinking about it. Poor little guy just goes and goes.

    If you go with 3S, running a center diff with an aluminum cup and 250K oil really calms it down with the wheelies while still giving good power to all 4 wheels and absorbing shock from landings.

    The list kind of goes on and on with a stampede if you beat on it a lot. lol!
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  7. #7
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    91
    I 2nd the vote for MIP axel upgrade. I only did the rears years ago as I figured the power would be hard on them. Been recently running 3s almost all the time and just snap one of my front axels. Ordered a front set of MIP's.

    Other than what others have suggested, I went with some Big Bore shocks and never had a problem with them.

    The biggest thing that has saved my trucks, putting on TóBone Racing front bumper guards. The amount of walls, trees, soccer posts this thing has hit at almost full speed, saved the truck every time.

    Sent from my ANE-LX3 using Tapatalk
    Stampede 4x4 - 1/16 E.Revo - Bomber & SCX10 - TT02

  8. #8
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Posts
    8
    Sounds good! For a start, I ordered some big bore shocks, shock towers, and a front bumper. I guess we'll go from there.

  9. #9
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    Posts
    1,180
    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Stainless steel screws are horrible. They are very soft, strip easy and break easy. I'd rather have a bit of rust than having stripped screws constantly or screws that snap off and leave a stump in a part that I can't remove.

    If your running 2S, then you will likely want to get cvd's for the rear. If you want to run 3S, then you really need to get cvd's for all 4. Some run tekno's, others do a conversion to the XL1 cvd's, I went with MIP X-Duty's 2 years ago and haven't had an issue. Even with 2S, I was going through sliders at least one a bash session. Got old, fast.

    Get some aluminum shock caps as well, will help extend the life of the stock ultra shocks.

    I ended up going with GTR's and dubro monster duty ball ends on the front to raise it up a bit as they are shorter than stock shocks. Also have vdk drilled out 1/16'th with 70wt oil and VG dual rate springs. I really air my stampede out now without thinking about it. Poor little guy just goes and goes.

    If you go with 3S, running a center diff with an aluminum cup and 250K oil really calms it down with the wheelies while still giving good power to all 4 wheels and absorbing shock from landings.

    The list kind of goes on and on with a stampede if you beat on it a lot. lol!
    You must of been buying some cheap stainless and trying to tighten them too much. Because in the years I have been using stainless steel fasteners I have yet to strip one or break one. Just have to educate yourself about what stainless is right for the application. Here is a source to help. Because you have been ruined by low grade stainless.

    https://continentalsteel.com/stainless-steel/grades/

    FYI: No premade kit of stainless for RCs is made of anything better than grade 409 and that is the really expensive ones. You have to make up your own kit from a reputable source. A full kit can easily cost over $50 but like I said it is not a cheap upgrade.
    Last edited by zedorda; 12-06-2019 at 12:18 AM.

  10. #10
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,580
    rcscrews was the set a buddy and me tried back in the day when we had t-maxx's. After having them snap off in our bulkheads, we stopped using them. The black oxide mcmaster screws I use usually bend a bit, then I replace them. Those others seemed brittle.

    Probably was 15 years ago, perhaps they have changed their ss grade.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  11. #11
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Posts
    8
    So, do you think an aluminum bulkhead, aluminum a-arms, and aluminum cvd's would be overdoing it?

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier GotNoRice's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    307
    Quote Originally Posted by cavemanmatt View Post
    So, do you think an aluminum bulkhead, aluminum a-arms, and aluminum cvd's would be overdoing it?
    I'd recommend against aluminum A-Arms. They don't break as easily, but they simply transfer that force to more important parts instead, which isn't really a good thing. Get RPM A-Arms, they bend (and bend back) when you crash or roll, and nothing breaks. Aluminum will bend also in a big enough crash (if something more important doesn't break instead), but unlike an RPM A-Arm, once an aluminum A-arm bends, it's done.

    As for CVDs, it depends on what your goals are. Aluminum is lighter, but not nearly as strong as steel. If you are going to go with metal CVDs, go with steel IMO, unless you are racing and really need to keep the weight down.
    Last edited by GotNoRice; 12-12-2019 at 04:31 AM.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,454
    Suggested 3s upgrades: https://forums.traxxas.com/sho...629...=4#post6296896
    Needs different shocks or atleast get the aluminum shock caps for stock shocks cause plastic ones pop off easily. I dont think they sell D8 shocks anymore. I'd skip temp gun unless you start changing gearing too.
    Last edited by Briber; 12-17-2019 at 06:24 AM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    4,477
    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    Suggested 3s upgrades: https://forums.traxxas.com/sho...629...=4#post6296896
    Needs different shocks or atleast get the aluminum shock caps for stock shocks cause plastic ones pop off easily. I dont think they sell D8 shocks anymore. I'd skip temp gun unless you start changing gearing too.
    I think skipping the temp gun is a bad idea. They are cheap, and great troubleshooting tools.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier JatoTheRipper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    826
    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    rcscrews was the set a buddy and me tried back in the day when we had t-maxx's. After having them snap off in our bulkheads, we stopped using them. The black oxide mcmaster screws I use usually bend a bit, then I replace them. Those others seemed brittle.

    Probably was 15 years ago, perhaps they have changed their ss grade.
    You learned the hard way like I did. RC Screwz makes garbage stuff and the customer service is just as bad.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,454
    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    ...They are cheap, and great troubleshooting tools.
    True I was just tryn to save a few bucks if OP wasnt changing gearing.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    4,477
    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    True I was just tryn to save a few bucks if OP wasnt changing gearing.
    Not trying to give you a hard time. I just feel like a temp gun should be in every RC guys bag.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  18. #18
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    1,041
    Whether he changes gearing or not isnít a reason to not get a temp gun. Motor and esc can get hot using stock gearing. It depends on how the OP uses the vehicle. A temp gun is a great tool and like said, should be in everyones tool box. It will keep you from having an early failure due to overheating the motor and/or the ESC. And to add to that, a good set of hex drivers is a great investment if you plan on having an RC for any length of time. The ones that come with the RTRís are just not made to be taking screws out and placing them back in for more then a time or two. Get some good hex drivers like MIP, Arrowmax, RDS, Wera, Wiha, and Bondus. Worth the money to invest in a good set, this way you donít end up with a bunch of stripped screw heads. JMHO.

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,454
    Wow sorry to flame up a non issue lol. Yes a temp gun is a great tool and every hobbyist should have one I agree. I understand stock gearing can get hot in the right circumstances but generally out of the box they are good to go.
    Last edited by Briber; 12-17-2019 at 05:06 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •