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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier Thomas P's Avatar
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    Question Mid diff ( Torque bias unit ) - different weights

    Wounder if anyone tested yet to change the stock 20M to a lighter one. Like 500k? ,the 20M feels like almost locked, cant this drivetrain/diffs somewhere be equal to a regular 1/8 buggy design in dt? I like how it drives, but id like to adjust it to my drivingstyle

    Thank you
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  2. #2
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    I think it was RazorRC who did a mix of the stock and some lighter weight fluid to lighten. His choice is in his set up vid in his thread.

    Iíve heard of people using 500k to 1M. Iím going to try 1M first up see how that goes.

    If you find any vids running specific fluids (or do any yourself) can you post them here for reference? Iíll do the same, I know I saw one but canít remember exactly where. Maybe driftomaniacs?

  3. #3
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    I just picked up 1 million

  4. #4
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    I'm not sure 20M is really 20M, I think they just made up that number. The 20M in the diff honestly looked like dried up shoe goo to me.

    But yes, I scooped out half of the 20M and replaced with 1k so that it's essentially halved to "10M". Seems good now. It's as light as I would go, so assuming it really is 10M now, 500k or 1M would be way too light. But I have a feeling their numbers are fake.

    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  5. #5
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    I just bought 1m weight so should I just take half of the stock out

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier Thomas P's Avatar
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    Thx guys , gonna go for 500k
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  7. #7
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    Let us know how it goes Thomas.

    Quote Originally Posted by Albie72 View Post
    I just bought 1m weight so should I just take half of the stock out
    Itís hard to know how to recommend mate. Only way to really know is from a clean diff and to recommend weight, brand of oil, and fill level.

    Your suggestion is probably worth a shot though as Razor has said a 50/50 mix of stock 20M and 1k would be as light as heíd go.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier Thomas P's Avatar
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    Yep, i know. Time to start testing . Thanks for all input
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  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I think he mixed 1 million in, not 1k....
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Thomas P's Avatar
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    Well 20M aint 20 mil, i opened it, and compared it to AE 1M, and the TRX is slightly "harder" almost none sticky at all ... trird 1M, and still bearly moved the outdrives with a wrench !!..so 200k, and still sick HARD...test day Friday
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  11. #11
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    I think he mixed 1 million in, not 1k....
    I mixed in 1k. So it's 1 part 20M, 1 part 1k. Theoretically, I have 10M in there now.

    20,001,000 / 2 = 10,000,500 wt.

    I seriously think the "20M" is just shoe goo they squirt in there. It's not really a liquid. I'm not even sure it's compatible with silicone diff oil! To be honest I'm a little afraid to reopen the diff to see what my concoction looks like now...

    But it's working good, and that's all that matters.

    Just noticed my profile say I have 1 Infraction. Somebody needs to fix that, I don't own an Infraction.
    Last edited by RazorRC22; 12-12-2019 at 04:54 PM.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Just noticed my profile say I have 1 Infraction. Somebody needs to fix that, I don't own an Infraction.
    I see what you did there. no one else can...
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  13. #13
    RC Qualifier Thomas P's Avatar
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    It is scilicone, but thick as few..the 1M from Associated a bit thinner..however, even with 200K that i run it is still WAY to hard...the sweetspot will prop be arround 100-150k
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  14. #14
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    @boosta made a video of the 20M stuff moving over a 4 hour period:

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...=1#post6517353

    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    And one more thing... Did this to entertain myself while editing. Its a four hour timelapse, pouring the 20M diff oil from my two maxx center diffs, condensed into 30 seconds. I thought it would take an hour, it took four to get halfway! I also wanted a analogue stopwatch in the shot to show the time passing but couldn't find one. I'll reshoot it like this in the near future

    Does look like normal silicone oil... if you give it a lot of time.
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  15. #15
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    Thanks Olds97, yeah that was fun. Canít wait to redo it with a watch face in there. Thatíll really show the hours passing!

    Thanks for the feedback Thomas. Great to see the vid and get a visual clue on how itís responding. Nice driving!

    So did you clean the diff out fully? Or mostly? And what brand oil was your 200K?

    Interesting on the shock oil too.

    Cheers!

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier Thomas P's Avatar
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    In testmode i clean ot as much as i can, but if there is still some left i dont mind.

    Mainly Xray/HUDY, Associsted and Ultimate oils

    For regular conditions say 20celsius +..the stock shock oil os to thin, 45Wt would be better.
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  17. #17
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    Ha. In Australia weíre heading toward 40C+ being Ďregularí conditions, next week at least.

    Thanks for the info mate, much appreciated

  18. #18
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas P View Post
    It is scilicone, but thick as few..the 1M from Associated a bit thinner..however, even with 200K that i run it is still WAY to hard...the sweetspot will prop be arround 100-150k
    Interesting, my "10M" feels pretty good to me. It won't instant wheelie on power, even on tarmac, but can barely wheelie on loose dirt on the stock tires after 8-10 feet. If I lowered it anymore it probably would never wheelie at all. I wonder if I'm running 1k with chunks of 20M floating in it as opposed to a true 10M. The other thing is that I simply removed half the 20M, but the stock diff oil didn't really fill up the diff, so it's probably closer to 25% 20M and 75% 1k by volume.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  19. #19
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    Thatís an interesting line of thought. We could take a small booga of 20M and see if it mixes with a lighter oil? Iíll try get to it soon but start of school holidays here so a bit preoccupied.

    Keen to try figure how to replicate what youíre running as it does seem a really good weight

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier Thomas P's Avatar
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    On tarmac/asphalt mine still a wheelie on demand..on loose, its spins, thats why mine bearly wheelies, but its better then 20M. 100k test later this week, i dobt want anything locked, and 50k rear will be 10k for me, applies better rear end grip to.
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  21. #21
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    Look forward to how your F/R diff weights go too mate as well as the 100k center.

    Some epic jumps in your latest vid too.l! Thought it was never going to land from the top of that huge pile! Even the jump from 1/3 the way up was a big jump, must be a long way from the top.


    One thing I feel Iíve always been trying to eliminate in the 1/10 diffs is the front inside wheel unloading under corner acceleration. Iím up to 500k now and thatís been a revelation, so much more what I was hoping for.

    However itís always a trade off and it seems to really badly affect rollover on corner deceleration. I know hardly anything about proper race tuning but I imagine itís because the front outside wheel is braking much harder with the heavier fluid and tipping it over.

    Iím on low traction dirt most of the time.

  22. #22
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Front shocks need to be moved to outer hole on the arms IMO. They are too long for the front, and extend too far when cornering causing it to unload too much.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  23. #23
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    Did anyone try 1 million in the center.want to see if it's worth it before I rip the truck a part

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier Thomas P's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Albie72 View Post
    Did anyone try 1 million in the center.want to see if it's worth it before I rip the truck a part
    I tried 1M, could bearly move the outdrives with wrenches..If you ask me its usless, still almost the same, if you in to allways wheelie its a good way..
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  25. #25
    RC Qualifier Thomas P's Avatar
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    Took the time today.

    Fr 50k
    Mid 100k
    Rear 10k



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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas P View Post
    Took the time today.

    Fr 50k
    Mid 100k
    Rear 10k



    nice diff holder you have there!!!!

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier Thomas P's Avatar
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    Hahahahaha...yepp, handy with the Shock holder
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas P View Post
    Hahahahaha...yepp, handy with the Shock holder
    let us know how it handles with the lighter center and rear oils

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier Thomas P's Avatar
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    Ofc buddy
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  30. #30
    RC Qualifier Thomas P's Avatar
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    Well, i think i am pleased with the mid diff setup on the Traxxas MAXX 4s (100k), need to go down to 5 or 7k rear..still a bit �� but TONS better..still wheelie from start and a bit speed..but later, like a new car ��

    #TRAXXAS #TEAMXRAY #MINICARS #RYNOS #BARKARBYHOBBY #PROLINE #FUTABA #HOBBYWING #TPPARTSRCXTREME #BBQUNLTD #ACTIONHOBBY

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  31. #31
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    Thatís fascinating mate. I would have thought it would have still wheelied with thicker oil than that.

    What would you say a round about temperature is there when you drive?

    Thanks for all the info!

  32. #32
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    Oh and whatís your fill level? ie. Up to the top lip of the cup, or further down?

  33. #33
    RC Qualifier Thomas P's Avatar
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  34. #34
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    Wow mate, that drives well! Well done.

    I just would not have expected it would still wheelie with 100k.

    Great stuff!

  35. #35
    RC Qualifier Thomas P's Avatar
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    Seems like 100k are on the edge of to much..that HW is not of this world
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  36. #36
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    Thats interesting. I wonder if the VXL-4S is limiting current to keep temps down? Maybe built in punch control or something?

    Be good to put an eagle tree logger on both to see if thereís a difference. Iíll try give it a go but my (slow) progress is stalled until after Christmas sometime :/

    Iíve been very surprised the amount of power Traxxas has wrangled out of the stock system. I did not think a 3670 would cope half as well as it has.

  37. #37
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    New Maxx owner here, first RC as well. I like projects with hand tools, so this looks like it will go well. Have swapped out the gearing to go lower for larger tires (installed Talon EXT), so am getting warmed up to taking this thing apart.
    Re the diff fluids, is there some regular maintenance that needs to be done? Some point at which one needs to replace those oils just for regular maintenance? Also, with no experience, how long would it take to do a center diff service? Iím very motivated to try some 100k in the mid diff, but am uncertain about getting in too deep and not being able to put things back together properly.

    Also for doing the diffs, are there any tools besides the usual hex wrench set that would help? Are there any other lubes (besides the diff oils) that I need to be applying?

  38. #38
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas P View Post
    Well, i think i am pleased with the mid diff setup on the Traxxas MAXX 4s (100k), need to go down to 5 or 7k rear..still a bit �� but TONS better..still wheelie from start and a bit speed..but later, like a new car ��

    #TRAXXAS #TEAMXRAY #MINICARS #RYNOS #BARKARBYHOBBY #PROLINE #FUTABA #HOBBYWING #TPPARTSRCXTREME #BBQUNLTD #ACTIONHOBBY

    Cool to see it in action with a more "normal" viscosity oil in there. Kind of makes me want to tear my ERBEv2 apart and see what 1M does in that vs the 20M that I last put in it. 20M seems to change as you drive and as it warms up. Starts out transferring a lot of power to the rear, but after a pack of running (15 minutes or so), it loosens up. My other RC's don't seem to do that and they range from 200k-750k in the centers. However they feel when I start the bash is how they feel when it ends.
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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by dimsdale View Post
    New Maxx owner here, first RC as well. I like projects with hand tools, so this looks like it will go well. Have swapped out the gearing to go lower for larger tires (installed Talon EXT), so am getting warmed up to taking this thing apart.
    Re the diff fluids, is there some regular maintenance that needs to be done? Some point at which one needs to replace those oils just for regular maintenance? Also, with no experience, how long would it take to do a center diff service? I’m very motivated to try some 100k in the mid diff, but am uncertain about getting in too deep and not being able to put things back together properly.

    Also for doing the diffs, are there any tools besides the usual hex wrench set that would help? Are there any other lubes (besides the diff oils) that I need to be applying?
    Very easy to do center diff just need to remove Center driveshaft cover and front and rear bulk heads and all 3 diffs come right out. I did all 3 of mine in 1 hour and then let them sit for 3 hours while I went to the pub. Came back and had it back together it 30min. Only tools I can recommend is a electric screwdriver. I use a 12v screwdriver and it makes disassembly super fast. Just need to watch when you put it back together but it makes the work go very quick.

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