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  1. #41
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    following this thread. getting my UDR soon and would love to see if you manage to figure this out

  2. #42
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    Thanks, I would also love that.

    Some good news is that all of the axle's internals are fine. The teeth on the gears and the splines on the axle shafts don't appear worn or chipped.

    More good news is that no debris entered the gear reduction housing. So Traxxas does know how and intends to create sealed drivetrain housings. They just failed to with the axle housing.

    So at this point it's just a matter of cleaning it all out, and putting it into a new axle housing, one which will actually keep debris out.
    Last edited by Fallen; 07-24-2020 at 02:02 PM.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    Thanks, I would also love that.

    Some good news is that all of the axle's internals are fine. The teeth on the gears and the splines on the axle shafts don't appear worn or chipped.

    More good news is that no debris entered the gear reduction housing. So Traxxas does know how and intends to create sealed drivetrain housings. They just failed to with the axle housing.

    So at this point it's just a matter of cleaning it all out, and putting it into a new axle housing, one which will actually keep debris out.
    That's definitely good news then! I'll most likely be doing most of my driving in grass, probably about 75% of the time. So many every 10 packs il open the axle, change the oil and clean the axle

    i wonder if the Losi SBR has this problem? lol

  4. #44
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    After some pointless tinkering on my disassembled UDR, I think I know why the stock axle housing lets so much debris in.

    It's super flexible, like undercooked pasta flexible. I think under suspension loads the pumpkin deforms, breaking the mating surface with the gear-reduction housing and inviting in all of that dirt the front tires are throwing back.

    Sure, snapped axle housings suck, but I'd rather snap a housing and still have good internals to swap over than shred the internals and spare the housing by making it flexible.

    So it appears an aluminum housing really is the solution to reduce the amount of flex going on at the pumpkin. Maybe I'll find a less expensive, lighter solution though...we'll see.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    After some pointless tinkering on my disassembled UDR, I think I know why the stock axle housing lets so much debris in.

    It's super flexible, like undercooked pasta flexible. I think under suspension loads the pumpkin deforms, breaking the mating surface with the gear-reduction housing and inviting in all of that dirt the front tires are throwing back.

    Sure, snapped axle housings suck, but I'd rather snap a housing and still have good internals to swap over than shred the internals and spare the housing by making it flexible.

    So it appears an aluminum housing really is the solution to reduce the amount of flex going on at the pumpkin. Maybe I'll find a less expensive, lighter solution though...we'll see.
    When i disassembled my entire rear axle, i noticed little to no dust coming from the hub ends...I pulled out the axles and there was quite a bit of dust in the middle part of the shaft. So in my case, dust is coming in from the suspension limit strap bolt holes. I cleaned and regreased everything up, sealed all the possible entry points and here's to hoping minimal dust. Dust in my area is not super fine, it more like super tiny and some super fine pebbles, idk how to descirbe it well lol.
    And my UDR cleans super easy after every session. Those super tiny pebbles do beat up my planetary housing and driveshaft though. It's pretty beat up looking only after four 30-minute sessions each, looks like i've done at least 20 sessions if you see them.
    If you get better results in aluminum housing, I'll jump on that bandwagon as well.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    After some pointless tinkering on my disassembled UDR, I think I know why the stock axle housing lets so much debris in.

    It's super flexible, like undercooked pasta flexible. I think under suspension loads the pumpkin deforms, breaking the mating surface with the gear-reduction housing and inviting in all of that dirt the front tires are throwing back.

    Sure, snapped axle housings suck, but I'd rather snap a housing and still have good internals to swap over than shred the internals and spare the housing by making it flexible.

    So it appears an aluminum housing really is the solution to reduce the amount of flex going on at the pumpkin. Maybe I'll find a less expensive, lighter solution though...we'll see.
    I saw someone on YouTube using a bead of silicone sealant when they were reassembling the diff


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  7. #47
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    That's a good thought, but I tried the silicone, with no luck. What I think is needed is either something to force the pumpkin to retain it's shape, or a pumpkin that just doesn't deform.

    I'm eyeing up that housing from Supershafty. I'm checking with my hobby shop today, and if they don't have any in stock, I'll buy the one from Supershafty. Thanks for posting it.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    That's a good thought, but I tried the silicone, with no luck. What I think is needed is either something to force the pumpkin to retain it's shape, or a pumpkin that just doesn't deform.

    I'm eyeing up that housing from Supershafty. I'm checking with my hobby shop today, and if they don't have any in stock, I'll buy the one from Supershafty. Thanks for posting it.
    no problem man, keep us posted on how the axle from shafty performs. Only thing that's stoppping me from buying it is because of the terrain I put my UDR through, I don't want that pretty aluminum get beat up so bad If you look at the video I posted on the pinned thread, that's the type of terrain that will mess up pretty aluminums, that's why I've stayed with plastic.

  9. #49
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    My hobby shop had a GPM aluminum housing in stock, so I bought that. I like the look of the Vitavon housing more, but if my shop stocks upgrades for my models I try to show them some love by buying from them instead of online.

    I also got Traxxas aluminum wheel hexes and RPM trailing arms to support the weight of this axle housing. I should have an idea as to how effective this solution is within a few months.

    I really wish Traxxas had participated somewhat in this process, even if by telling me that the housing is floppy. But they chose to keep it corporately safe, and remain silent on the issue. Predictable, and disappointing.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    My hobby shop had a GPM aluminum housing in stock, so I bought that. I like the look of the Vitavon housing more, but if my shop stocks upgrades for my models I try to show them some love by buying from them instead of online.

    I also got Traxxas aluminum wheel hexes and RPM trailing arms to support the weight of this axle housing. I should have an idea as to how effective this solution is within a few months.

    I really wish Traxxas had participated somewhat in this process, even if by telling me that the housing is floppy. But they chose to keep it corporately safe, and remain silent on the issue. Predictable, and disappointing.
    i agree with all your statements. I support my local hobbyshops.
    Im sure Traxxas is reading this, and maybe future UDR models will have a better axle housing. Like if they stick with plastic, it will be more rigid and the openings and seams are all facing rearward. Maybe they'll even incorporate a gasket system like the receiver box.

  11. #51
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    I've contacted Shafty, he has vitavon axles in stock. i pulled the trigger and bought one. My plastic axles is so beat up from the terrain here lol I haven't opened my axles again and its been about 10 30-minute sessions. but im not worried about its internals anymore. it seems to be bulletproof based on your pictures.

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  12. #52
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    Congrats, that Vitavon housing looks sweet. If you haven't already, look into beefing up the trailing arms, as these aluminum housings are heavy.

    Mine is in rebuild mode currently, getting it back to the condition you'd want it in on Thursday night before a race weekend.

    I swapped the front drive cups, cleaned out the front A-arms which were full of dirt again and cleaned the rest of the truck out with 80psi from my compressor. I cleaned and re-filled my shocks too. Most of the rears were low on oil, and they all had dirty oil.

    I'll be painting the A-arms and new trailing arms silver to match the housing, with model paint. I'm also removing the cover plates from the A-arms. All they do is trap debris. I know my paint job won't last, but the truck will look nice at contingency.

    My axle housing is built, greased and Loc-Tited, waiting to be installed. I suspect the weight of this housing will settle the rear end down a bit, and keep the nose up on jumps.

    And finally, a new steering servo will go in. A Savox 1256-TG from my rock crawler.

    She'll be ready for a shakedown soon.

  13. #53
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    Thanks for the tips! I already have a Hot Racing trailing arms and its already looking beat after a 1 hour session. lol But still looks better than the stock plastic and RPM ones. And I agree, the back end needs to have some weight because it's always nose down on jumps.

    After 5 runs, I've opened up all the diffs, planetary, and shocks, and serviced them, just all factory specs. I like the way factory handles. Suits my driving style. But I may try 80wt on the slave shocks as I want more dampening now that I am starting to do some jumps. Nothing big, 2 foot high, keeping it scale.

    Also upgraded the steering bellcranks to aluminum but im thinking of putting the stock ones back again because on full sends, and throttle release after a full send, I noticed by UDR would veer left. Never had that problem before. Or maybe because of diffs? tires unload enevenly? i dont know.

    Replaced my servo to powerhobby 729MBL, super strong and fast. Maybe a bit too fast because I had to relearn how to drive the UDR again, slight input and sends the rear tires loose all of a sudden.

    Overall, still learning and tuning to how I want my UDR. Love this rig, Only real complaint is the battery tray come a bit loose and lets small rocks/sand inside.

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unstudded_6.0 View Post
    Thanks for the tips! I already have a Hot Racing trailing arms and its already looking beat after a 1 hour session. lol But still looks better than the stock plastic and RPM ones. And I agree, the back end needs to have some weight because it's always nose down on jumps.

    After 5 runs, I've opened up all the diffs, planetary, and shocks, and serviced them, just all factory specs. I like the way factory handles. Suits my driving style. But I may try 80wt on the slave shocks as I want more dampening now that I am starting to do some jumps. Nothing big, 2 foot high, keeping it scale.

    Also upgraded the steering bellcranks to aluminum but im thinking of putting the stock ones back again because on full sends, and throttle release after a full send, I noticed by UDR would veer left. Never had that problem before. Or maybe because of diffs? tires unload enevenly? i dont know.

    Replaced my servo to powerhobby 729MBL, super strong and fast. Maybe a bit too fast because I had to relearn how to drive the UDR again, slight input and sends the rear tires loose all of a sudden.

    Overall, still learning and tuning to how I want my UDR. Love this rig, Only real complaint is the battery tray come a bit loose and lets small rocks/sand inside.
    What is weight of the stock shock oil? I haven’t had much luck finding that answer


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  15. #55
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    Stock is:

    Front: 30wt

    Rear: 60wt

    And that's in Traxxas oils. There could be differences between other manufacturer's oils.

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    Stock is:

    Front: 30wt

    Rear: 60wt

    And that's in Traxxas oils. There could be differences between other manufacturer's oils.
    Thanks. Reference for refilling and rebuilding. Now to go buy the oil...


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  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    Stock is:

    Front: 30wt

    Rear: 60wt

    And that's in Traxxas oils. There could be differences between other manufacturer's oils.
    Just in case (since there’s 8 shocks instead of 4) is that the front set of shocks(with springs) on each corner of the UDR is 30wt and each rear shocks (unsprung) on each corner is 60wt. OR...the whole front set of shocks (front four) are 30wt and the “rear four” are 60wt
    I know logically the ones with springs get 30wt and the ones without get 60wt...but I’d better be safe


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  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbestfromclovis View Post
    Just in case (since there’s 8 shocks instead of 4) is that the front set of shocks(with springs) on each corner of the UDR is 30wt and each rear shocks (unsprung) on each corner is 60wt. OR...the whole front set of shocks (front four) are 30wt and the “rear four” are 60wt
    I know logically the ones with springs get 30wt and the ones without get 60wt...but I’d better be safe


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    Whole front set is 30, and whole back set is 60. And Fallen is right, those weights are Traxxas oil weights.
    I've been using Losi oils as they are more avilable than Team associated. Losi tends to be a tiny bit on the heavier side or so they say, But honestly have not seen a differencce.

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unstudded_6.0 View Post
    Whole front set is 30, and whole back set is 60. And Fallen is right, those weights are Traxxas oil weights.
    I've been using Losi oils as they are more avilable than Team associated. Losi tends to be a tiny bit on the heavier side or so they say, But honestly have not seen a differencce.
    Thanks


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  20. #60
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    Well the axle's built and installed. I've driven the truck once since, back at the beach in Oceanside, CA. The sand is super fine there, so the next time I tear this axle apart, we'll have a good read on whether or not the aluminum housing actually solves the debris problem.

    *

    I ran it first on clean concrete, and the truck drifted nicely without rolling over once. Maybe all this extra weight down low really does benefit performance.

    I also removed the lower control arm cover plates, as they just trap debris. There wasn't any apparent difference in performance without them.

    *

    I painted the upper and lower control arms, trailing arms and the rear upper shock mounts. All silver, so they look like metal. The paint on the arms survived very well through the sand. Some real rough off-road terrain will give the paint a good test. I used a spray paint for plastic models, and if the paint survives, I'm considering doing the entire cage with a chrome model paint.

    *

    *

    I'll likely pick up a 3rd battery, and do an endurance race against my son's Yeti again soon. A 250 lap or so race around our super rough outdoor track should be fun, test the trucks, and point out who the fastest scale driver is. If you're in the lead, and roll over resulting in human power being needed to right the vehicle, you drop to 2nd at least, no matter how big your lead was.

    The only real problem is counting laps. We've never done a race with that many laps before and I think keeping an accurate lap count is going to be the biggest problem.

  21. #61
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    Looks great man! I can't wait to get my metal axle!
    You mentioned before that it's a GPM brand? How's the quality and fitment?

  22. #62
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    It seems pretty nice, I was surprised. I'm not really a GPM fan, as I'm used to their stuff being junky, cast aluminum.

    The axle housing is a CNC piece though, and everything fits nice and tight. Plus, all I really want it to do is keep the internals clean. The tolerances definitely seem good enough for that, and the CNC aluminum should definitely solve the pumpkin flex problem.

    They include a ton of stainless hardware to assemble and install it, which is a nice addition. You could almost build and install 2 axle housings with the hardware they supply.

    It's just very heavy. It'd be interesting to know if the Vitavon housing is lighter. I know that extra, non-rotational weight low is great for handling characteristics, but it's still an overall weight increase which is hard on the drivetrain and electronics.
    Last edited by Fallen; 08-17-2020 at 01:13 PM.

  23. #63
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    I was at the hobby shop today getting another battery and they showed me a pretty cool Spektrum system for lap counting.

    I'd have to buy the system ($70), build a rack for it, and then buy new TX/RX systems for both my son's truck and my truck. Then we'd have infrared lap counting to take anywhere.

    So probably more pricey than I want to buy right now. But it's a neat option.

  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    It seems pretty nice, I was surprised. I'm not really a GPM fan, as I'm used to their stuff being junky, cast aluminum.

    The axle housing is a CNC piece though, and everything fits nice and tight. Plus, all I really want it to do is keep the internals clean. The tolerances definitely seem good enough for that, and the CNC aluminum should definitely solve the pumpkin flex problem.

    They include a ton of stainless hardware to assemble and install it, which is a nice addition. You could almost build and install 2 axle housings with the hardware they supply.

    It's just very heavy. It'd be interesting to know if the Vitavon housing is lighter. I know that extra, non-rotational weight low is great for handling characteristics, but it's still an overall weight increase which is hard on the drivetrain and electronics.
    I agree with you on GPM quality man. I bought an entire front end all aluminum GPM and there were a few things I found out right away.
    1. Dog bones are sitting at the brim of the drive cups on full droop and that's too close for comfort for me.
    2. Upper and lower arms retaining pins that attached them to the bulkhead has a bit of play. Stock ones did not and they pin GPM uses are thinner compared to stock.
    3. Steering knuckles, you will lose a bit of camber and toe-in. Did not like the way the GPM front end handle. So much slop and play I was all over the place even with TSM 100%. And it would veer left right away on full throttle.

    Then I switched to Hot Racing.... and also extremely disappointed. Basically same problems with the GPM but not as much with the additional of 1 thing, the front upper arm hits the tire and rim on full turn...

    long story short, my UDR front end is completely back to stock again and I'm really happy. Sucks I had to learn the hard way and wasted hundreds of dollars. The only metal front end part is my toe links because the plastic ones bow too much.

    And I don't have a GPM axle to compare but I feel like VItavon is a bit heavier. Judging by the pictures, Vitavon seems beefier all around. I could be wrong though.

  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    I was at the hobby shop today getting another battery and they showed me a pretty cool Spektrum system for lap counting.

    I'd have to buy the system ($70), build a rack for it, and then buy new TX/RX systems for both my son's truck and my truck. Then we'd have infrared lap counting to take anywhere.

    So probably more pricey than I want to buy right now. But it's a neat option.
    Badass never has a price


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  26. #66
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    Bummer about your front end parts. That sucks to spend all that cash & time only to find out stock was better. Hot Racing has been hit or miss in my experience, varying between a real performance upgrade or something you can't even install because it's so poorly built.

    And on the lap counter price, the $500 or so is just too much radness for us right now. Family of 7 living in San Diego County on the one salary of a police officer (me) means that we'll have to find another way to mimic scale off-road racing for now. Stimulus checks maybe?

    Its the radio systems that cost so much. For the system to work, each vehicle needs a $250 RX/TX system with telemetry from Spektrum.

  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    Bummer about your front end parts. That sucks to spend all that cash & time only to find out stock was better. Hot Racing has been hit or miss in my experience, varying between a real performance upgrade or something you can't even install because it's so poorly built.

    And on the lap counter price, the $500 or so is just too much radness for us right now. Family of 7 living in San Diego County on the one salary of a police officer (me) means that we'll have to find another way to mimic scale off-road racing for now. Stimulus checks maybe?

    Its the radio systems that cost so much. For the system to work, each vehicle needs a $250 RX/TX system with telemetry from Spektrum.
    Oh wow I was just in San Diego last weekend and brought my UDR to Coronado beach! Had a blast! Wish I had paddles though, that sand was really fine lol.
    And yea I wasted money on those parts, I also do not want to sell them because I feel like I am cheating on the buyer by selling them poor quality parts. I'll just take my losses.
    And as a fellow LEO, you be safe and stay healthy!

  28. #68
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    If you come over again, hit me up. PM me for my cell number. I stay in North County San Diego, but the outdoor track I run at up here is a blast. My son would love to put his Yeti up against two UDRs.

    His Yeti runs on 2S, and it's not as fast as a UDR. But with the tight turns and super rough terrain at the track, speed is more your enemy than your friend.

    Coronado is a fun place, and their police department is probably the highest paid department in the county. If I worked for them, I'd have the lap counting system.

  29. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    If you come over again, hit me up. PM me for my cell number. I stay in North County San Diego, but the outdoor track I run at up here is a blast. My son would love to put his Yeti up against two UDRs.

    His Yeti runs on 2S, and it's not as fast as a UDR. But with the tight turns and super rough terrain at the track, speed is more your enemy than your friend.

    Coronado is a fun place, and their police department is probably the highest paid department in the county. If I worked for them, I'd have the lap counting system.
    I will most likely come back around the holiday season. Love the holiday seasons and weather in SoCal so I will let you know!
    If i didn't feel like starting over and moving, Coronado would be the best choice for me. Theyre living the good life out there!

  30. #70
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    My son and I were back at the track this evening, with my UDR bumping his Yeti off of the top spot at the outdoor track. We geared his Yeti up, and the increased speed proved too much to handle, as he repeatedly blew turns and rolled his truck. We swapped the lead back and forth several times, but I ran a cleaner, faster race. He also broke his steering servo gears and DNF'd after only 2 batteries.

    The upgrades I did since my last outing have had the following results:

    Aluminum axle housing: No idea as far as keeping the internals clean. I won't know that until I tear it down again, which won't happen for several batteries. But the weight did settle the rear end down. I could hit whoops (slightly) faster, and jumping performance was improved. The truck still likes to go nose down in the air, but noticeably less. I was not a fan of adding so much weight, but now I'm glad I did. And if it keeps the insides clean, I'll be really happy.

    Steel wheel hexes: no difference noticed.

    RPM trailing arms: no difference noticed.

    Painted arms: the paint held up very well, only losing a small amount from the bottoms. I used some Testors German silver, and it still looks great. The next time I have the truck disassembled, I'll probably find some Testors chrome or some other metallic looking color to spray the cage with.

    Fresh shock oil: stock oil weights have the truck performing like it did new, which is great. Traxxas really did dial the suspension on this truck out of the box. I see no need to change spring rates or damping.

    New steering servo: I know most wont agree with this, but no difference noticed. I thought I'd see a big performce upgrade here, going to a 233oz servo that's faster than stock, but it seems the same to me.

    Well, keep fiddling around with your UDRs. I'll likely be selling off several RC cars soon, in the pursuit of another hobby. But the UDR won't be going anywhere! Ever. If I could only have one RC, it'd be this one.

  31. #71
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    I took my old, chopped up stock body and turned it into this:

    *

    *

    I had already cut it into 3 sections, before one of my 2 year old sons damaged it. Today, I painted the front two sections on the outside with metallic blue.

    It's a totally garbage paint job that took 15 minutes, and got dropped on the ground while the paint was still drying. I did 2 coats at once, and puddled paint up everywhere. But it looks good for a desert truck!
    *

    I kept the stickers very minimal, to hopefully get that garage built look I wanted with my other body. Now, my blue and silver body is the race body, and this one is my knock-around body.

    Having the rear body panels removed shows off some of my metallic looking (painted) parts, and actual metal parts from the rear end.

    Now stop looking at my truck, go get yours out of the garage, and look at it!

  32. #72
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    Update?


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  33. #73
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    Soon. I just (10 minutes ago) fully disassembled my UDR in anticipation of painting the cage. Silver or gloss black, I haven't decided yet. I'm still putting the parts into bags. But since it's all apart, I'm going to look into the aluminum axle housing and find out if its clean. Hopefully it proves to be the solution to the dirt/sand/dust loving stock axle housing.

    I'll probably jazz up any drive train parts that need it as I'm rebuilding; bearings, seals and whatnot. I can already see that my stock steering linkages have a slight, but permanent bend so those will probably be upgraded to metal.

    I'll start with scoping the axle out, so as not to keep you guys waiting. Thanks for asking.

  34. #74
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    Definitely interested in seeing how the rear axle looks after the upgrade. Don't let us rush ya though, I like taking my time when wrenching on things but I'm subscribed to this thread! Thanks for keeping it going!

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    Thanks. I probably won't know until next weekend. I spent about 3 hours disassembling the truck this last weekend, and between a wife, 5 kids and a job I probably won't look into the axle until my next weekend.

    Unless I call in sick...

  36. #76
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    Well, my wife took 2 of the 5 kids out today, leaving me about 30 minutes in which I disassembled the axle housing and... good news! It's clean.

    I've run about 10-15 packs since it's last cleaning. That included some VERY fine sand with beginners driving, and severely dusty, dry dirt in extremely rough, bumpy terrain.

    I originally built this with blue grease, which has collected enough dirt to turn dark brown. But all of the dirt is trapped in the grease, just like it should be.



    The axle shafts are clean to include the splined ends, even though there was a lot of dirt built up at the hubs.



    You can see that some dirt penetrated the mating surface surrounding the housing but it didn't get far. And as previously stated, any that did was trapped by the grease, which is what grease is for.





    These bearings that support the spool were covered with sand last time. This time, much better.





    So, if you're tired of having to clean out your axle housing every 3-5 batteries, go buy an aluminum one and be done with it. I usually am not a GPM fan, but they did a good job with this part. Other housings are probably nicer, but this one keeps the dirt out, so I'm jazzed on it.

    I'll do a minimal amount of cleanup and reassemble this thing. She's ready for more though just as it is.

  37. #77
    RC Racer Nickerz's Avatar
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    Jan 2016
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    That is very awesome and very nice to know you solved that issue with the aluminum upgrade!!!

    This got me thinking, I'm assuming the "open diff" mod can still be done using any aluminum axle since the housing is the same as the plastic one, right? So just replace the metal spool with a front/center diff and done?

    Thx for sharing the detailed pics!!!

  38. #78
    RC Qualifier
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    Mar 2015
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    Thanks. I'm glad it wasn't $100 wasted on an "upgrade" that makes my truck heavier for no good reason. It actually solves a problem, so I'm happy with it.

    And yes, you can still run the open diff in any axle housing that can run the locked diff. But, I think the rear open diff might have a different part number than the front open diff, so check that. I think its the ring gears that are different. I still run the locked rear though, so I don't have much practical experience with it.

  39. #79
    RC Racer Nickerz's Avatar
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    Jan 2016
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    Good to know and I'll be sure to confirm what part #'s are needed. I really do like having the peace of mind of now knowing how to keep the axle! If I do get the UDR, this will eventually be an upgrade I do...

  40. #80
    RC Enthusiast
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    Aug 2020
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    those silver wheels look awesome I’ve thought about doing that with mine.

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