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  1. #81
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    Thanks. Once they're masked off, its a really easy paintjob. If you're going to do it, use a plastic model pray paint like Testors, or even Tamiya TS. The Tamiya PS (lexan spray) doesn't adhere well to the plastic wheels, and scratches off easily.

    As referenced above, I took my cage apart for painting. Some of the guys on RCCRAWLER.COM forum advised Cerakote for plastic, so I looked up a Cerakote applier near me and found one who does firearms.

    I called him to ask if he'd be interested in taking on an RC project, and he not only was willing to take it, wants to use it to market his his services to the hobby industry. I'll be dropping the entire thing off to him today, everything except for the tub chassis.

    We're shooting for a replica of a real trophy truck, and we'll be deciding on cage, body, wheels and suspension components for him to color the truck with using Cerakote.

    After talking about all of this with him, I found out he owns the Gracie Jiu Jitsu gym that I train at. And since he found out I'm in law enforcement, he's hooking me up. I'm stoked!

    So my truck will be down for some time prior to being reassembled and loaned out for photos after that. But she'll look different and I'll have some fresh photos for you guys after that. Once it's all said and done, if you guys like the results I'll point you to him and if you guys want your trucks hooked up, you can work with him on it. He likes jiu jitsu, guns, cops and painting. Probably the kind of guy you'll want to send business to.

  2. #82
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    Wow, can't wait to see how that turns out!!! Interesting, cause just yesterday I came across this video of a guy who made his UDR look really scale...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIDeY8ncQo0

    ...talk about drooling all over myself - lol!

  3. #83
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    I got the cage back from the Cerakote applier, and I'm conflicted. I really like the way it looks, but now I'm tempted to shelf queen it. Hopefully the durability of the coating proves to be durable enough to shake that idea out of my head.

    I have no idea how durable the coating is though. I haven't driven the truck yet, as I just got it rebuilt. The guy who did the Cerakote wants the truck back for photos, so I'm trying not to get it all dirty before he gets it.

    I also don't know how much it costs, because I didn't pay for it. I have heard on RCCRAWLER.COM that a guy had his Baja Rey cage coated for $100. If that's close, that's actually cheaper than buying the complete black satin chrome cage from Traxxas. Hopefully this coating also proves to be more durable than the black satin finish.*








  4. #84
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    Since I'm sending this back to the finisher for pictures I wanted to get it looking nice.

    I decided to re - paint the cage panels so they look fresh. I also painted the lettering on the tires, which is something I've wanted to do for some time.

    Its really easy, but time consuming. I used an extra - fine tipped Sharpie white paint pen. The extra - fine tip fits between the raised lines of the letters. Most of the letters took 3 coats, all took at least 2 to look bright and even. I also painted the beadlock hardware in orange.







    With the body on, having the cage painted doesn't really make a huge difference. You notice some parts of the cage more, but it's mostly buried.







    It might be nearing new wheel and tire time soon. My spares, which had been rear wheels previously have cracks in the rubber right above the outer bead. The bead didn't come unglued, but the tires' sidewalls started to pull away from the bead. I layed some CA glue down in an attempt to save them, but its probably a limited time fix.



    Oh well, I wish I'd noticed that before I spent all of the time painting the lettering. Getting fresh wheels and painting those will determine the new color scheme I'll eventually do. I'd like to try a different look, but I seem to keep coming back to blue.

    I hope you enjoyed the photos. Please go find something to do on your UDR. I drove mine in the living room tonight and one tiny jump knocked any shelf queen ideas right out of my head. The UDR looks good on a shelf, but looks better in motion.

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    I suspect this thread or maybe just this post will be deleted not too long from now, which is okay. This post is critical of a Traxxas product and their customer service, and Traxxas is totally free to delete it, this being their forum.

    Just as they're free to delete it, I'm free to say it's lame if they do. If they won't solve the unsealed axle housing, then they should expect people to complain about both, the housing and their refusal to address it. To be clear, I believe this to be a manufacturer's defect that Traxxas is refusing to address while my UDR is still under it's warranty period.

    I sent these photos to Traxxas asking them for a solution:

    *

    *

    *

    *

    *

    The response I got was essentially this:

    That's the price we pay for driving off-road.

    I disagree. I think the price I paid for driving off-road was $800 + batteries. Not hours of maintenance every two or three batteries, due to a poorly sealed drivetrain.

    So I'll finally be upgrading to an aluminum axle housing, just to solve this problem myself as Traxxas doesn't want to touch it. I won't be driving my UDR until I've replaced the axle housing.

    As I've stated several times throughout this thread: awesome truck Traxxas, I'm thankful and impressed that you guys made it.Terrible axle housing, I'm bummed about you guys dodging this issue.

    If anyone else intends to pipe up about this on my thread, please refrain from profanity and do it respectfully and fairly. If Traxxas is going to delete this, I'd rather it be simply because I criticized their product and customer service.
    I bought the gpm aluminum axle housing and sand still gets into the axle but not nearly as much. Also the only part it really gets into is by the shafts and bearings that are connected to the wheel hexes.

  6. #86
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    That's a bummer to hear. I've got 5-10 batteries on my GPM axle housing, all of which were in very fine sand and dusty dry dirt.

    My housing was clean on the inside after the aforementioned running. I compare that to 15 batteries on the stock housing with loads of debris inside, and feel like its a win.

    Sorry to hear yours hasn't gone that way.

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    So, what I don't know is what leads to why I'm irritated about this. That is "where else the dirt gets in."

    I used silicone to seal the outside of the mating surfaces where the gear reduction housing halves meet, and where the gear reduction housing mates to the axle housing.

    Still, a lot of sand/dirt got in. If a simple bead of sealant had been able to solve the problem, Traxxas would have no complaints from me.
    That is very true. Traxxas could have definitely added a dollar to the price of the truck and add some seals.

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    That's a bummer to hear. I've got 5-10 batteries on my GPM axle housing, all of which were in very fine sand and dusty dry dirt.

    My housing was clean on the inside after the aforementioned running. I compare that to 15 batteries on the stock housing with loads of debris inside, and feel like its a win.

    Sorry to hear yours hasn't gone that way.
    The axle is not terrible I like the aluminum because I originally bought the aluminum one because for some reason it sounded like garbage and the bearings kept falling out and I have not had as much problems with the bearings. There is not nearly as much sand and dirt in the axle as there is in the stock one. I also wish I would have gotten the vitavon axle instead of the gpm one. The vitavon one seems like they spent much more time designing theirs instead of being like gpm and just making the same mold but just aluminum.

    My udr had been a complete lemon and I have spent hours and hours taking things apart and replacing parts. I wish traxxas would have given up a little bit of realism and added some durability so that I could drive it more than two runs before I had to order parts. Although it is probably the coolest and most fun rc I have ever seen.

  9. #89
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    Oddly enough, I feel the opposite way that you do. I like the UDR because it's my "drive it like a real truck" truck. It scratches the itch that other models don't. I like paying too much attention to detail and being too careful in how I solve problems. The UDR encourages both in me, at least that's what I use my UDR for.

    Have you tried any of Horizon's models? It seems like some of Losi's or Arrma's models might suit your driving style more. Those trucks tend to beg for more bashing. The UDR might tolerate light bashing, but tolerance is as far as that goes. It certainly doesn't like it very much. And the Arrma Senton looks pretty good in their videos.

  10. #90
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    I have looked at the Losi super Baja Rey and the armma Mojave but I like the size and look of the udr. I wish it had just as much realism and durability as the losi super Baja Rey 2.0 although in my opinion the udr looks quite a bit better. I wouldn’t mind paying 100$ more to have better plastic like rpm makes. The udr is also super fun to drive at some sand dunes especially on 6s.
    They should have also put a slipper clutch in it even though it already has a differential in it. I think that the slipper clutch would solve half of my problems. I also bought my to use as my drive realistic truck but it is much more powerful than my other trucks. I have a Bigfoot stampede that I have jumped the same 30 foot jump over and over again and I’ve had almost no problems, but if seems like the udr can’t handle small jumps. The jumps I hit with mine are smaller than the ones that traxxas does in their videos.

  11. #91
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    Since I've been slowly working on converting my UDR into an Ultra 4 truck, I'll post some progress photos here. My hope is that if enough people start doing these and posting about them, the aftermarket will pick up and start making some parts for these builds... like an off-center pumpkin axle housing or modified skid plates.

    Enjoy the photos. Any questions, ask away.











    I'm still a tax return away from getting back into race shape. But once I do, my son's Yeti is going to bite the dust! I've DNF'd twice in this truck. I'm 0 / 2 so far.

  12. #92
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    Nice. That tail end looks as if it came out of the box that way

  13. #93
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    Thanks, I was pleasantly surprised once it was done. It's solid too. I can pick up the truck from the rear bumper with no noticeable flex.

    My skid plate is more like a roll plate with that bend in it. I'm not confident that it will survive much abuse. My hope was to modify stock parts as much as possible. I might have to use something else though for a skid plate depending on how mine survives or not.

  14. #94
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    I came across this video the other day after a friend had let me take out his Slash 2WD, and was just in awe of this thing right away



    https://youtu.be/mO2maq51yz0

    I had been out of RC for 20+ years and I bought a Slash, that day.

    In the future, I'm going to have to sell a motorcycle or something and get one of these. They are just awesome!!

    Loving this thread too, Fallen, thanks for all the looks at your truck and mods etc

  15. #95
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    You're welcome, and thanks for the comment.

    A hidden upgrade I did, which I haven't tested yet is a mod to the stock servo saver. The stock servo saver spring is pretty weak, even when tightened down all the way.

    If you've ever owned a Slash, you're familiar with the spring pre-load clips you can add to the shocks. I used one of those (a thin one), cut the "grab tab" off of the back and put it under the servo saver spring.

    The idea is to tighten up the spring and it seems to have worked when trying to get the steering rack to deflect by hand.

    Now when I hold the steering rack in place, I'm unable to get the wheels to steer by hand. Before the mod, I could easily get the wheels to steer with the steering rack not moving. We'll see if this provides the steering throw an Ultra 4 truck will need to survive the rock sections.

  16. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post


    .
    The longer I stare at that, the more I think your approach is superior to mine because they way you did the rear end of the cage, not only preserved the rigid tail structure, it also allows the flexibility to run sway bars that (1) allows better high speed stability and (2) kept the two sway bar link that add additional resistance to rear axle side sway, thus keeping it better in a straight line and less stress on the shocks and other joints.

  17. #97
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    I do think that the sway bar is good to have for high speeds but if your going for a rock racer I would run it without it because it would be good for the articulation and because the hot racing one is about three times thicker than the stock one. It does look great though and I like that you kept all of the scale accessories.

  18. #98
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    Thanks gents. I've re-installed the front sway bar, as the front suspension is really soft without the two sides tied together. It's like the driver's side needs the resistance from the passenger side and vice versa, otherwise the suspension is too soft. Plus, the high speed stability is a must. I have put both sway bars at their softest setting.

    The good news is you'd only need the cage sides and rear center to re-do your cage. Those three pieces probably cost less than $30 together.

    I've added 1 spare tire back to the rear, which I'll eventually post a photo of. The suspension is really well tuned from the factory and by losing both spares I was concerned I'd need to do too much suspension tuning to get it back to how it was. Removing both spares takes a lot of weight off. Plus, EVERY KOH car in EVERY class runs a spare tire. Most cars have to do at least one tire change during the race.

  19. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ikemort View Post
    I do think that the sway bar is good to have for high speeds but if your going for a rock racer I would run it without it because it would be good for the articulation and because the hot racing one is about three times thicker than the stock one. It does look great though and I like that you kept all of the scale accessories.
    You are right about the articulation, it’s a thing of beauty to see these things flex as they run over small houses

    The cool things about the way Fallen did is that you have the option of both and still have a very rigid cage tail section.

  20. #100
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    I do agree that you should be able to go full speed without the truck swaying all around the road. In mine I put some stiffer shock oil in it and some proline hyrax without sway bars and it handles great. I definitely want to see a picture of the spare tire.

  21. #101
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    Great job!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  22. #102
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    Thanks man! I'm just a few front drivetrain parts away from being able to race my son again.

    My driver's side CVD fell apart at some unknown point. Also, my front diff cup had the threads stripped from the factory, where the screws hold the ring gear to the cup. I suspect that is the real reason my front diff was leaking.

    That won't be a problem anymore since I'm buying an aluminum diff cup. I'll also be filling the front diff with Silly Putty, which won't be leaking out.

  23. #103
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    Get out of the way, quick!



    Say hello to #4419, the Ultra 4 UDR.

    Drivetrain Modifications:

    1. Rear planetary housing switched back to plastic.
    2. Front differential filled with Silly Putty.

    Chassis Modifications:

    1. Shortened chassis by hacking it to pieces and moving stock parts around. See photos above.
    2. Front light mounts moved around by hacking the mount to pieces.
    3. Single spare tire using scale jack for support.
    4. Stock body hacked to pieces.

    Suspension Modifications:

    1. Front sway bar removed.

    That's it. A pretty simple conversion overall. I've yet to race (beat) my son's Yeti with it, but that should be coming next weekend.





  24. #104
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    That spare tire looks sweet. good job.

    What shock oil are you running? I’m running 70 in the back and 40 in the front for jumping.

  25. #105
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    I'm still running stock weights, as my UDR doesn't see much air time.

    30wt in the front.
    60wt in the rear.

  26. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    I'm still running stock weights, as my UDR doesn't see much air time.

    30wt in the front.
    60wt in the rear.
    Have you refilled them? Mine were empty after about a month.

  27. #107
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    Thanks for the spare tire comment above, and yes. I've owned my UDR for about 1.5 years, and I've refilled my shocks twice.

    The first time they needed almost no oil. The second time they had all lost at least 1/3 of their oil. At that point I drained them all and refilled them.

    I would try to solve the leakiness, but I figure it'll keep me refreshing the oil, as opposed to running dirty oil for ever and ever like I usually do.

  28. #108
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    That’s a good point, the oil that was left in mine was super dirty.

  29. #109
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    Well, good news for my steering as tomorrow is race #3! I have a Hot Racing steering rack /servo saver assembly on the way from RPP Hobby, but it won't get here for 2 more days at least. I need to win tomorrow!

    So I figured out what I did wrong with my stock servo saver mod; I didn't use enough spacers. I needed to use enough to completely delete the stock spring - it's way too soft for rock trails.

    These are the three Traxxas shock preload clips I needed to take up the space of having removed the spring:



    With those three spacers in place of the stock spring, the cap holding them down was a MM or so higher. So to prevent the button head screws that hold the cap down from rubbing on the chassis, I replaced those screws with some counter sunk head screws. I used my body reamer to slightly countersink the screw holes. That gave me enough clearance to where the screw heads don't rub on the chassis when the bulkhead is installed tight.



    Now I no longer have a servo saver, but that's why I am leaving plastic steering links on my truck. They can be the weak point which fails, and hopefully my titanium geared servo will survive a hit.

    With just a 277oz servo, I can now move the front of the truck to the side just by steering the wheels with them jammed against an object.
    Last edited by Fallen; 03-03-2021 at 05:39 AM.

  30. #110
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    Fallen,

    Just wondering how you like the HR sway bars, any difference from stock? Really awesome to what you have done to the UDR.

  31. #111
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    Thanks man!

    The HR sway bars are a huge improvement over stock.

    I'm not usually a fan of aluminum upgrades, nor do I always like Hot Racing.

    But the HR sway bars are worth the money, especially if you like to go fast over real desert terrain. They'll keep your truck way more planted than the stock sway bars.

  32. #112
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    Well, I got the UDR back on the top spot, beating my son's Yeti in a 2.5 mile Ultra 4 race. We both finished this time, about 1 minute apart from each other. It was definitely an exhausting race as we ran behind the trucks.

    The two most significant modifications were the Silly Puttied front differential and the servo saver delete. But to anyone who's crawled before, that's no surprise. Traction and steering improved your truck's performance in the rocks?! Nay! Couldn't be.

    The UDR suffered no breakages, even though I was worried about my re-formed skid plate and my spare tire. Going back to plastic on the rear planetary housing was the right idea. My pumpkin did far less hanging up this time around.

    About the Silly Puttied differential; if you don't plan on crawling, don't do it. It's basically a diff lock with an emergency release to save your drive train from catastrophic failure. Driving on high traction surfaces is not recommended.

    If you think the UDR is fun to drive as a trophy truck, well... you're right. But it's a lot of fun as an Ultra 4 truck too. Watching the suspension flex through rocks, hitting jumps and hopping the truck over rocks you can clear is a blast.

    Go watch some 2021 King of the Hammers footage, and decide if you want to make the conversion. The UDR is definitely up for it.

  33. #113
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    That’s awesome. I wish someone would start trophy truck or ultra 4 racing in my area because that would be so fun.

  34. #114
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    Just out of curiosity, what are you guys getting for speed on pavement? I did some speed runs on 6S short distance using the Traxxas app and had the UDR up to 48-49MPH, is the app actually accurate?

  35. #115
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    Unfortunately, I don't have an answer for that, so hopefully someone else does. I've just never tried to figure out how fast my UDR goes.

    I only care about my UDR going fast enough to put a smile on my face, which it regularly does. I guess I calculate speed in "smiles per hour." On 4S that's usually 7 or 8, which is a lot for me.

  36. #116
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    I’m getting about 45 on 6s

  37. #117
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    Ikemort are you using the traxxas app?

    Im wondering if the app is accurate on temps, voltage ect.

    Fallen "Smiles per hour" is great, honestly I really enjoy my UDR and even working on it brings me a smile. It might be the way I drive but I have found that the UDR doesn't roll as much as I thought when I was first looking into getting one.

    Did you guys cut holes in your tires? I'm mainly running on pavement, dirt and some grass, I'm not running in snow or water.
    Last edited by firemedicUSAR; 03-06-2021 at 09:18 AM.

  38. #118
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    I cut the holes in mine per the manual. I drive my UDR in dirt or sand 90% of the time. Both have small enough particles to enter those vent holes in the wheels and get trapped in the tires.

    I guess I should have just put a face mask over my wheels. Then my tires would be safe from particles and Covid-19. Dr Fauci approved!

  39. #119
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    I just tied my phone to the truck and used a speedometer app. I didn’t ever cut holes in my stock tires but I did put some tapes over the holes. I won’t cut holes in my hyrax either because they are sealed.

  40. #120
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    How do I post pictures on here. I can’t figure out how and I am on my phone so do I have to be on a computer?

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