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  1. #1
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    Another UDR to be Unleashed Soon

    Hello again Traxxas forums. I've been away in scale crawlers for a few years after building several Traxxas models up (Slashes, a Summit and a Telluride).

    Loving scale RC trucks led me to interest in the UDR when it came out, and for this Christmas I'm finally getting one. It's the blue Traxxas body with the light kit pre-installed.

    While I wait for December 25th to arrive, I'm planning out batteries (4S) and scale modifications. I already have four 2S batteries, but being 4000mah, I suspect I won't have the run times I'd like to see. I'm thinking two 4S batteries above 5000mah each will give me enough fun if I leave the house with two full batteries.

    I plan to drive the UDR as scale as possible. Meaning, if full size trophy trucks aren't getting 35 vertical feet of air, then I won't be doing 5 foot jumps (7th scale truck - 35ų7=5). I probably won't be jumping this truck any higher than 1.5 feet, as I've never seen a trophy truck hit more than 10-12 vertical feet. Even landing those jumps to flat probably have their race teams cringing. Jumping to flat I will likely keep below 1 foot. My #1 goal is always to get across the finish line in one piece. If I get there quickly, then good.

    So I plan to start with painting the wheels, painting the scale items and adding little scale touches here and there. I suspect my driving style won't result in many breakages to stock parts but time will tell. Things that do break will be upgraded.

    I don't have anything against bashing, it's just not how I like to drive my RC cars. Now, your RC cars you can drive however you have fun with them, and I think that's rad. My UDR will probably spend more time being tinkered with on the bench than putting rubber to the earth. But for now, she rests in her box under my Christmas tree, patiently awaiting her days in the sun (San Diego, CA).

  2. #2
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    I ordered my UDR today! I can't wait to get it in. Got my tracking # from Traxxas today. I'm assuming it will be on the road tomorrow. I went ahead and ordered it with 400 brushless servo and the steel wheel hexes.

  3. #3
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    When I read the title of this thread I thought you meant Traxxas were about to release a new UDR model!! lol
    https://www.youtube.com/iftibashir

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier USMC1984's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IftiBashir View Post
    When I read the title of this thread I thought you meant Traxxas were about to release a new UDR model!! lol
    Same here.


    Congrats OP, let us know when you get it!

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier JatoTheRipper's Avatar
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    Congrats on the purchase! The UDR is an awesome truck for sure.

  6. #6
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    Dang, sorry for the misleading title. I suppose I can call it my first attempt at clickbait.

    It sounds like you nailed some of the most recommended upgrades already Mariposa. Nicely done.

    And I will eventually get some photos going. The only thing to see now is a box under a tree, which you guys probably have enough of at your houses already.

    I'll do a build thread for it, even though it's already built... My 11 year old son is amping to drive it. I've made him study the real driving conditions and performance limits of trophy trucks prior to him getting behind the wheel of the UDR. He is fairly experienced too, having his own Losi 22 buggy, and he's been driving for a few years.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    Dang, sorry for the misleading title. I suppose I can call it my first attempt at clickbait.

    It sounds like you nailed some of the most recommended upgrades already Mariposa. Nicely done.

    And I will eventually get some photos going. The only thing to see now is a box under a tree, which you guys probably have enough of at your houses already.

    I'll do a build thread for it, even though it's already built... My 11 year old son is amping to drive it. I've made him study the real driving conditions and performance limits of trophy trucks prior to him getting behind the wheel of the UDR. He is fairly experienced too, having his own Losi 22 buggy, and he's been driving for a few years.
    May 11 year old daughter has been running a Bandit for about 2 years now so this year she'll have a TRX-4 Sport under the tree. Her favorite color is red and she loves the size and drivability of my Defender.

  8. #8
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    Well your daughter is a lucky girl. My son thinks UTVs are the coolest things ever, so I bought him a used Axial Yeti Jr. I'm hoping it will pique an interest in crawling, as all he's really been into so far is go-fast stuff.

  9. #9
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    So my UDR has indeed been unleashed. While it looks great sitting still, I think it looks best in motion. And the particular motion that looks best to me is hanging the rear end out on loose surfaces. This truck does not like high traction surfaces, but that isn't what I bought it for.

    I've only run it on 4S so far, and I don't want to try 6S. Full throttle on 4S is enough to frighten me and I only keep it there for a few seconds.

    I added 1/4" of preload to the front shocks and 1/2" to the rear. Stock ride height (zero preload) seems alright for on-road driving but too low for any real off road driving. It also looks more like a real trophy truck with some added ride height over stock.

    *

    I added a chassis skirt to help keep the rear axle clean. I've read that dirt entering the rear axle is a problem and while this won't entirely solve it, it'll help keep the axle cleaner. It's tool box mat with a 3/32 steel rod zip tied at the bottom for weight. Think it's a lame idea? Check Rob McMillin's 2019 4X4 trophy truck. That's what gave me the idea.

    *

    I painted several of the scale items, but still have the oil cans and jack to paint, so they're removed.

    *

    *

    My shocks leak quite a bit and will need refilling eventually. My front diff also has fluid showing around the passenger side drive cup. I've run 5 or 6 packs through it so far, and wish I wasn't seeing fluid leakage like this already. However, if I took a real trophy truck through the desert 5 or 6 times I'd probably have more work to do than just fluid re-filling.

    I can't wait for Pro-Line (or anyone else) to start releasing bodies for this thing. That'll be fun. And while stock Traxxas bodies have never been my flavor in the past, I actually like this truck body. I go back and forth between body off and body on. I cut the space for the bumper light bars to be wider as that space being very tight makes the body a real pain to put on.

    No broken parts yet. My 11 year old son gave it it's worst crash yet, a 2 foot high jump landing straight to the front bumper. All the rest of my jump landings have been soaked up by that glorious suspension. As previously stated, I don't jump this thing very high. My UDR's time spent on its roof has been from turning too fast with too much traction.

    Short term review: drive it like a real trophy truck and the UDR will reward you with fun and durability. It's worth what it costs in my opinion, and I'm glad Traxxas did such a good job on this model. I really enjoy it both sitting still, and in motion. But moreso in motion.

  10. #10
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    I got around to painting my wheels. I prefer for my wheels to stand out from the tires, and the beadlock rings to stand out from the wheels. So I like the way black wheels look, but I didn't like how the wheels disappeared into the tires, especially at a distance.

    *

    I painted them with Tamiya PS-49, Baby Blue Anodized Aluminium. The wheels actually look like aluminum wheels, which is pretty rad. The downside is that this is it's paint for lexan, so I don't expect that it will adhere super well to the plastic wheels. But for now, it looks good.

    I could have boiled the wheels to remove the tires, but I just masked them off instead. Either way was time consuming. If you use a regular masking tape, it takes a lot of little pieces to make the circle look round. But in the same way that a 30 sided polygon feels like a round wheel when you get it going fast enough, the small pieces of tape make up the circle for good enough masking.

    *

    *

    Eventally I want to paint the trailing side of the axle housing, either silver or gloss black so that it looks like its metal. But that will be a project for another weekend. This weekend's project is in the books.

    *

  11. #11
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    Good news about these darn leaky shocks on this UDR. After 5 or 6 runs I decided to take the shocks off, clean them and refill them. There was a lot of dirt and oil residue at the spring perches and where the shafts enter the shock bodies.

    So I removed all 8 shocks and cleaned them off. Then I went to refill them and found that only one of them needed any oil. And that one only needed 3 or 4 drops. The other 7 shocks still had about 1/4 of oil above the piston at full compression.

    One of the shocks' oil was dirty. The other 7 shocks' oil was crystal clear.

    So I know these things are leaky, because I can see the oil on the shocks, but apparently they can leak and still have plenty of oil in them. It looks like they can run about 12-15 battery packs before they'd need actual filling.

    My driver's side front diff cup is still an oily mess, which will be what I address next. I might just run grease in the front diff instead of oil, if I can't get it to stop leaking.

    Speaking of what to put in the front diff, anyone done an Ultra 4 build off of the UDR yet? It seems prime for it.

  12. #12
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    Well my hobby shop tricked me. I went in to get a battery which I did. Lectron 4S, 5200 MAH, 25C (I think). It fits the tray perfectly.

    But they started stocking UDR upgrades, so of course I had to look! The GPM AL axle housing was just too expensive for me, and I'm not sure I want that much extra weight on this truck. I really don't like a bunch of aluminum on a car, unless the car needs the weight.

    But I did buy my first, and possibly only AL upgrade for the UDR, the Hot Racing sway bar kits for front and rear. The only thing I didn't like about the stock sway bars was the bars themselves being pretty much non-performing due to being so flexible. But these kits came with new linkage too, and I do like the way they look.

    *

    I also painted my cage panels, which was really easy. 1/2 inch masking tape on the edge of each panel where it bolted up next to the edge of another panel, and voila!

    *

    Eventually I'll start working on my front diff...but this weekend was devoted to running at a fun track, and some bling.

  13. #13
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    I took my rear axle apart after hearing so much talk about dirt getting in there...yep. It was a real mess, after about 10 battery packs. I think Traxxas did a GREAT job with the UDR. So much so, that even with this axle issue, I would still buy another one. But it is a problem, and one I hope Traxxas will address in the future, with a properly sealed axle because the stock axle housing, isn't. This is a real knock on what is supposed to be a "desert" truck.

    *

    *

    *

    To balance this out, Traxxas does deserve some props for designing a drivetrain that can accept this much debris, and keep on trucking with no problems. These steel gears are thick, and the axle shafts are beefy. The ring gear would probably pulverize small pebbles, and can stand up to some abuse. That being said, only very fine dust was able to enter, the size of which I don't see doing any real damage to these gears...unless it's left in there for a while.

    But having to spend two hours on maintenance every 10 batteries is still lame, when a simple seal could prevent that. Come on Traxxas, or even aftermarket... someone give me a plastic axle housing that is properly sealed please. I plan on adding my own sealant to the housing, and not driving the UDR until I've done so. An AL housing isn't what I want to put on the truck, but if it solves the seal problem, that might tip the scales for me.

  14. #14
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    Finally took my front differential apart to find what I think caused the leak.

    The blue seal pictured below that goes between the ring gear and the diff housing was slightly deformed around one of the screw holes. All of the fluid had leaked out after approximately 10 battery packs.

    *

    Either that screw was severely overtightened, or the screw was inserted at an angle. Either way, it deformed the seal, but it didn't tear the seal. There was a nick in it, but since the nick didn't go clear through, I layed it flat and reused the seal. We'll see if it leaks again.

    I put 100k weight oil in it, as I only run on loose surfaces. I also sort of like the possibility of turning this into an Ultra 4 build. The 100k oil feels pretty loose though. I might eventually silly-putty my front diff, especially if it leaks again.

    The builder error makes sense, considering I haven't seen people posting about leaky front differentials. Mine must have just been a build mistake, and not a design flaw seen in the entire line.

  15. #15
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    I agree about sealing. The UDR is an amazing machine, so I give Traxxas all the credit for making it to begin with. I do hope that they will make some improvements that can be retrofit, otherwise the aftermarket.

    Great pictures and write ups. Please keep them coming. I dont use my UDR enough, but I love reading about it!

  16. #16
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    Thanks Ben.

    I took my UDR for its first beach run yesterday at Oceanside Harbor, San Diego. The sand is really fine there, almost like powder and here is the outcome:

    Sand everywhere. I already sealed my axle housing with a bead of silicone, so hopefully my axle is clean. But there was sand everywhere, including the fuel cell, which I had to take apart to empty out. There was also a lot of sand in the motor/center gearbox area, but whatever. Traxxas didn't make me drive the UDR in fine sand, so it's not their fault. Plus, I like tinkering with my truck.

    The stock tires are rad! I've used them on pavement (super durable), dirt (great traction) and sand. I don't think I'll ever buy paddles. The stock tires do just fine in sand, but that has to do with the four wheel drive. If it was 4X2 I'd probably want paddles.

    Also, I sort of see the push for 6S. When you've got miles of open terrain, 4S doesn't seem as fast. But it still seems fast enough for me, and all of the passersby who enjoy seeing it. 4S is also way too fast for all of the children who like chasing my UDR, including my 4 children. My wife even drove it for a bit and I think it's the first of my 15 or so RC cars that my wife has driven and enjoyed.

    My UDR is still stock, except for the sway bars. I've yet to bend or break a single part, 12 batteries in.

    The UDR does great in the sand. Take yours to a beach near you and it'll put a smile on your face.

  17. #17
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    I painted up some more of my scale items in the "bed" finally. I still haven't finished the jack but I'll get around to it eventually.

    *

    I have never been into full size offroading, but from what I gather, yellow batteries are all the rage. Lest anyone think I'm not cool, I painted the tops of my batteries yellow. Now you know how cool I am.

    *

    My 11 year old daughter kindly painted my oil cans for me. Silver on the carrying box and black bottles with red caps.

    *

    I also re-did my mud flaps (several times). The latest revision is a pair of 1/10 scale flaps someone left at my local track. I attached them to the chassis lower cover plate. You can see from the holes in the lower cage member where I had previously attached them.These are mostly just for looks, as I now realize the only current solution to keeping the rear axle clean is some sort of sealant, which I applied already.

    *

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    Hello again Traxxas forums. I've been away in scale crawlers for a few years after building several Traxxas models up (Slashes, a Summit and a Telluride).

    Loving scale RC trucks led me to interest in the UDR when it came out, and for this Christmas I'm finally getting one. It's the blue Traxxas body with the light kit pre-installed.

    While I wait for December 25th to arrive, I'm planning out batteries (4S) and scale modifications. I already have four 2S batteries, but being 4000mah, I suspect I won't have the run times I'd like to see. I'm thinking two 4S batteries above 5000mah each will give me enough fun if I leave the house with two full batteries.

    I plan to drive the UDR as scale as possible. Meaning, if full size trophy trucks aren't getting 35 vertical feet of air, then I won't be doing 5 foot jumps (7th scale truck - 35ų7=5). I probably won't be jumping this truck any higher than 1.5 feet, as I've never seen a trophy truck hit more than 10-12 vertical feet. Even landing those jumps to flat probably have their race teams cringing. Jumping to flat I will likely keep below 1 foot. My #1 goal is always to get across the finish line in one piece. If I get there quickly, then good.

    So I plan to start with painting the wheels, painting the scale items and adding little scale touches here and there. I suspect my driving style won't result in many breakages to stock parts but time will tell. Things that do break will be upgraded.

    I don't have anything against bashing, it's just not how I like to drive my RC cars. Now, your RC cars you can drive however you have fun with them, and I think that's rad. My UDR will probably spend more time being tinkered with on the bench than putting rubber to the earth. But for now, she rests in her box under my Christmas tree, patiently awaiting her days in the sun (San Diego, CA).
    Training mode speed (15+ mph) is realistic Trophy/Trick Truck speed. Try it. And turns are easier to negotiate. 30+ mph on 4S is just stupid


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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    I got around to painting my wheels. I prefer for my wheels to stand out from the tires, and the beadlock rings to stand out from the wheels. So I like the way black wheels look, but I didn't like how the wheels disappeared into the tires, especially at a distance.

    *

    I painted them with Tamiya PS-49, Baby Blue Anodized Aluminium. The wheels actually look like aluminum wheels, which is pretty rad. The downside is that this is it's paint for lexan, so I don't expect that it will adhere super well to the plastic wheels. But for now, it looks good.

    I could have boiled the wheels to remove the tires, but I just masked them off instead. Either way was time consuming. If you use a regular masking tape, it takes a lot of little pieces to make the circle look round. But in the same way that a 30 sided polygon feels like a round wheel when you get it going fast enough, the small pieces of tape make up the circle for good enough masking.

    *

    *

    Eventally I want to paint the trailing side of the axle housing, either silver or gloss black so that it looks like its metal. But that will be a project for another weekend. This weekend's project is in the books.

    *
    Do you know the part number for a pair of blue Method wheels? I bought the blue Traxxas body and set of 4 blue wheels & tires.
    I know Traxxas sells them in pairs because I bought them in red.
    My Rigid Edition parts list and research ends up with nothing


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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    Dang, sorry for the misleading title. I suppose I can call it my first attempt at clickbait.

    It sounds like you nailed some of the most recommended upgrades already Mariposa. Nicely done.

    And I will eventually get some photos going. The only thing to see now is a box under a tree, which you guys probably have enough of at your houses already.

    I'll do a build thread for it, even though it's already built... My 11 year old son is amping to drive it. I've made him study the real driving conditions and performance limits of trophy trucks prior to him getting behind the wheel of the UDR. He is fairly experienced too, having his own Losi 22 buggy, and he's been driving for a few years.
    Keep this in mind. Your accessories will get lost in crashes. Had flaps in the rear. Donít have them anymore. And I lost a shock reservoir the last time I ran


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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbestfromclovis View Post
    Keep this in mind. Your accessories will get lost in crashes. Had flaps in the rear. Donít have them anymore. And I lost a shock reservoir the last time I ran


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    My truck is beautiful just the way it is. And less expensive


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  22. #22
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    Let me see if I can find a part number for the blue wheels you're asking about. I'm assuming you mean blue beadlock rings, not blue mesh. If you're hoping to find some wheels with blue mesh, I'm thinking you'll need to paint your own as I don't think anyone is selling those yet.

  23. #23
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    I may just try training mode the next time I go to my local outdoor track. The more realistic the truck looks, the happier I'll likely be.

    On loose surfaces (dry dirt) does training mode still have enough acceleration to break the wheels loose for some drifting?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    Let me see if I can find a part number for the blue wheels you're asking about. I'm assuming you mean blue beadlock rings, not blue mesh. If you're hoping to find some wheels with blue mesh, I'm thinking you'll need to paint your own as I don't think anyone is selling those yet.
    Thanks for your help. I just need the pair with blue beadlocks for spares. Gotta color match the rims


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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    I may just try training mode the next time I go to my local outdoor track. The more realistic the truck looks, the happier I'll likely be.

    On loose surfaces (dry dirt) does training mode still have enough acceleration to break the wheels loose for some drifting?
    Oh yeah. And power slides are controllable. And your tires wonít catch edge during power slides and send your truck barrel rolling. Jumps are realistic. All turns are more manageable considering your truck has a locked rear diff. They should change training mode to pro scale mode just for this model on the app when you change between modes


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  26. #26
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    Any sorry, upon searching I'm not finding now what I did find a few months ago. The Traxxas website listed a whole bunch of option parts for the UDR, including the black satin finish cage parts.

    That's where I also found the blue beadlock ring wheels listed, but I'm not able to find that list via Traxxas at the moment.

    Maybe someone else will have better luck than me...

  27. #27
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    Curious if your able to use RTV to seal the rear diff/axle enclosure at all. I know I've done that on a few trucks that had gaps that let dirt in. Used to do it on my savage's back in the day. Just something that creates a pliable seal that isn't hard to remove for maintenance. Black silicone maybe.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  28. #28
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    On the UDR's axle housing I used clear silicone (Dap brand) from The Home Depot.

    RTV would probably work also, as would any sealant that doesn't erode the plastic. I just don't have any RTV on hand, or I likely would have used that. I used it all the time as an aircraft mechanic, and boy does that stuff stink!

  29. #29
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    And after a Google search for "unlimited desert racer satin chrome" I found the list of accessories. It was the 3rd or 4th search down.

    They apparently don't sell the blue beadlock ring wheels separately, which I find odd because I thought I saw them listed before. Maybe I was mistaken then. It appears they only sell the Method wheels in all black.

    But hopefully I'm mistaken now, and you can find those wheels somewhere. I just don't know where yet. You know, since my truck came with the blue wheels, maybe my manual will list a part number...
    Last edited by Fallen; 03-18-2020 at 04:33 PM.

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    On the UDR's axle housing I used clear silicone (Dap brand) from The Home Depot.

    RTV would probably work also, as would any sealant that doesn't erode the plastic. I just don't have any RTV on hand, or I likely would have used that. I used it all the time as an aircraft mechanic, and boy does that stuff stink!
    I use the sensor safe stuff a lot on RC things. Supposedly, when the non-sensor-safe rtv cures, it emits an acidic vapor. I used to use the ultra-copper to seal engines (backplates, carb necks, etc) which was red/coppery color, but the last stuff I bought was grey, which I used to seal up the sensor plug on my castle motor.

    Regardless, no matter where I use that stuff, it ends up all over my hands and tools within 2 minutes of opening it. I'm like a kid with a peanut butter/jelly sandwich with that stuff!
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    And after a Google search for "unlimited desert racer satin chrome" I found the list of accessories. It was the 3rd or 4th search down.

    They apparently don't sell the blue beadlock ring wheels separately, which I find odd because I thought I saw them listed before. Maybe I was mistaken then. It appears they only sell the Method wheels in all black.

    But hopefully I'm mistaken now, and you can find those wheels somewhere. I just don't know where yet. You know, since my truck came with the blue wheels, maybe my manual will list a part number...
    Swing and a miss... My manual only lists part #s for non-blue beadlock ring wheels. Which now makes me wonder...where I would get some if I wanted replacements?

    Another option:

    Buy the all black Methods, and with no tires glued up yet, paint the beadlock rings whatever color you want. Then use the masking method I showed earlier in this thread, to paint the wheel mesh some other color. Then glue your tires on.
    Last edited by Fallen; 03-18-2020 at 07:32 PM.

  32. #32
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    I chopped my body into three sections; hood, cab and rear fenders. I wanted to do four sections, but I couldn't figure a way to separate the left and right fenders while keeping them attached securely to the chassis. Now I can customize the look, unless it's a race of course. My sponsors would never tolerate me leaving their brand off in a race.

    Since there's a few body options and the Traxxas clear body available, I wasn't as worried about wasting a body in case this turned out bad. $70 would have me back in the game with a full body. But it didn't turn out bad. I actually like it with the hood and cab sections installed and the rear fenders removed.
    *

    The body panels don't flap around at all like this either.

    Other than cutting the body, the only modifications needed were a few holes drilled into the chassis. On the roof line cage member aft of the B pillar, there are already two holes in the cage member.
    *

    But they don't go all the way through the cage member, so I just had to extend the holes with a drill bit so they do.
    *

    Then I use those holes to thread screws into, securing the roof of the cab section to the chassis.
    *

    Without those added screws, the cab section of the body would only be held on at the bottom of the chassis.

    The rest was just cutting. Hopefully the pictures make clear enough where my cuts were made, but feel free to ask some questions if not. Each cut was made by following some line that already existed on the body.
    *
    *
    *

    After I made the cuts, I removed about 1/8" more lexan from each cut edge to leave some room between the panels. I hate the sound of lexan hitting lexan.

    I can attach the rear fenders still, I just haven't yet and you guys already know what the truck looks like with the full body.

    Oh, this is where I cut the roof to separate it from the rear fenders, and leave them attached to the roof.

    Last edited by Fallen; 03-22-2020 at 10:58 PM.

  33. #33
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    I painted a fresh body up, as one of my two year old sons tore one of the mounting holes out of my stock body. I still have it chopped up into three sections which I'll keep as a back-up or practice body.

    The idea for the new body was to make it look like all of these Southern California garage built desert trucks. They have fiberglass front ends and rear fenders that never seem to make it to the paint shop. The cab is one color, and the fenders/hood are white or primer gray.* My hobby shop is out of white and grey, so silver is close enough. And I love blue, so the cab was always going to be blue.

    I definitely wanted to go away from the pro race team truck look. It ended up looking more like an amateur race team truck, than a garage build, but that's okay. I left my door and roof panels unstickered as if to say "hey, I've had some good finishes and picked up some sponsors, but I still need a big company contract so I can quit my 9-5!"

    Well enjoy the photos.

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    Also, when working on my UDR recently I noticed the fine thread screws which hold the faux shock reservoirs on were no longer biting and securing the reservoirs. So I swapped those screws out with some coarse threaded screws. Now those reservoirs aren't going anywhere, anytime soon.

  34. #34
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    Following Light1984's build and advice, I added those Capo bump stops to the rear suspension. The only variation I made from his instructions was using two metal rod-end eyes in place of his 14mm sleeve.

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    I've yet to drive it like this, so I'm a bit worried these will transfer forces to places force isn't designed to go, resulting in breakages. With the body installed you don't really see these things, which is okay with me. It's another one of those sneaky scale items which you only notice after poking your nose around the truck.

    I don't jump the truck high enough to bottom out on jumps, but I've hit big whoops at speed and bottomed out before. I can tell because the axle housing has scrape marks on the top from hitting the chassis members above it.

    Hopefully these bump stops at least stop that from being such a violent hit, and nothing breaks. It won't take me too long to find out...

    Also, my front diff hasn't appeared to be leaking since I layed the seal flat which I'm happy with. I'm probably nearing the time to drain and re-fill my shocks. Since I've increased pre-load, I may try 40wt in the front and 70wt in the rear to slow things down a bit.

    Happy UDR driving, or tinkering, or staring, or whatever you do with yours. I do all of the above with mine.
    Last edited by Fallen; 07-01-2020 at 01:16 AM.

  35. #35
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    Well those bump stops took a beating today, with no breakages anywhere. Props to Light1984 for coming up with a secure way of mounting them.

    My bump stops and axle definitely have marks on them from repeated contact with each other. I was racing against my son's built Axial Yeti, a built Rock Rey, a Super Rock Rey and a Losi DBXL, and i was certainly hitting the whoops too fast, bottoming out several times. I even took my worst crash from one of those when my rear end got tossed and I ended up rolling the truck 3 times.

    Still, no broken parts on my UDR, and everything is stock except for the sway bars.

    And the only truck I didn't beat was my son's Yeti. The bottom line on race day is that it doesn't matter how fast your truck can go in a smooth straight line, when you're racing on a very rough track, with tight turns.

  36. #36
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    I suspect this thread or maybe just this post will be deleted not too long from now, which is okay. This post is critical of a Traxxas product and their customer service, and Traxxas is totally free to delete it, this being their forum.

    Just as they're free to delete it, I'm free to say it's lame if they do. If they won't solve the unsealed axle housing, then they should expect people to complain about both, the housing and their refusal to address it. To be clear, I believe this to be a manufacturer's defect that Traxxas is refusing to address while my UDR is still under it's warranty period.

    I sent these photos to Traxxas asking them for a solution:

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    The response I got was essentially this:

    That's the price we pay for driving off-road.

    I disagree. I think the price I paid for driving off-road was $800 + batteries. Not hours of maintenance every two or three batteries, due to a poorly sealed drivetrain.

    So I'll finally be upgrading to an aluminum axle housing, just to solve this problem myself as Traxxas doesn't want to touch it. I won't be driving my UDR until I've replaced the axle housing.

    As I've stated several times throughout this thread: awesome truck Traxxas, I'm thankful and impressed that you guys made it.Terrible axle housing, I'm bummed about you guys dodging this issue.

    If anyone else intends to pipe up about this on my thread, please refrain from profanity and do it respectfully and fairly. If Traxxas is going to delete this, I'd rather it be simply because I criticized their product and customer service.
    Last edited by Fallen; 07-22-2020 at 05:21 PM.

  37. #37
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    Feb 2020
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    Off road is hard on everything that tries to tame it. I was full size off road back in the day and it was hard on ME. A desert racer once quoted ďitís like racing to the edge...of destructionĒ. Iím amazed that insurance companies today even want to insure off road vehicles. Thatís off road. Thatís why trophy trucks have a spare driveshaft along with the spare tires. Not tire...tires
    Every run I remove 14 screws and 4 locknuts and remove the body and tires and go after every fastener to make sure theyíre tight. And some need to be tightened. Every time. And Iím 4S on training mode (handles better at 15+ mph)
    I suspect the screws were loose on your rear end and dirt seeped into it. A while back someone also complained. I opened mine at the time and it was cleaned


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  38. #38
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    Thanks for the offer of a possible solution, but my screws were not loose. I'm a former professional aircraft mechanic and have been working on RC cars for about 6 years.

    Upon disassembling the axle, all of the screws were fully tightened and had not come loose from driving.

    I like the way you're thinking though, as taking off-road abuse into the understanding of the problem is needed.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    Thanks for the offer of a possible solution, but my screws were not loose. I'm a former professional aircraft mechanic and have been working on RC cars for about 6 years.

    Upon disassembling the axle, all of the screws were fully tightened and had not come loose from driving.

    I like the way you're thinking though, as taking off-road abuse into the understanding of the problem is needed.
    Now that worries me. Iíve only had 4 runs before COVID and my governor is sticking to keeping all outdoor gatherings closed or with a small number of people so Iím waiting
    But after I start running the truck more I may experience your problem. Where else would dirt makes itís way in? And I live in the desert. Silt - the desert racerís enemy. Super fine dirt that infiltrates everything and sinks any trophy truck up to its fenders. Desert races have been decided on silt


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  40. #40
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    So, what I don't know is what leads to why I'm irritated about this. That is "where else the dirt gets in."

    I used silicone to seal the outside of the mating surfaces where the gear reduction housing halves meet, and where the gear reduction housing mates to the axle housing.

    Still, a lot of sand/dirt got in. If a simple bead of sealant had been able to solve the problem, Traxxas would have no complaints from me.

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