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  1. #1
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    New vs used -what would you do?

    Hi all - I was wondering what the consensus on the board is as to whether it would be better to buy a new Xmaxx 8S, versus one that is used. To me its not really the same argument as one would consider when buying a new versus a used automobile, because unlike an automobile the Xmaxx is basically purpose built to be bashed.

    I am asking because there are few used xmaxx's for sale near me. They are attractive in the sense that I could acquire one and a set of batteries for less than or equal to the price of a new Xmaxx without batteries. However, I am worried about acquiring a vehicle that has problems that I might not recognize at the time of purchase - particularly as most people (understandably) bash the xmaxx to death. On the other hand, many of the used trucks for sale near me have aftermarket parts that I would need to pay for if I went with a new truck - widening the delta between the cost of a new truck versus the used.

    Recognizing that it is unit dependent, what would you do if you were in my situation? Buy new or buy used? And why?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    If I buy used I like to see 40% off or more. I try to find ones with out batteries because they are often not cared for. When it comes to xmaxx I also like to see hobby wing max 5 or 6 installed. I have bought a used 6s truck and 8s truck with good luck following the 40% off more role. I also bought one new 6s years ago when discounts where still Allowed.

  3. #3
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    I would rather buy new and gets the parts I want to upgrade it with. Also donít have to worry about getting someone elseís problems. As for batteries, do yourself a favor and buy new ones yourself. This way you know for sure how many charges have been put through them and how they are cared for. Itís not out of the question to buy a used one if the price is right and you can touch and see the vehicle work before you buy. If not, then IMO, itís just a gamble that you get a good used one or whether you get someone elseís problem child. Bashing hard doesnít necessarily mean tearing the truck out every outing as some YouTube vids would have you think. I like to bash hard, but know the limit of the vehicle I am running and that itís costly to abuse it.

  4. #4
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    If itís for Texas..
    Just know this could be what you get



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  5. #5
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    Take your time when buying used. Test drive and listen for clicks and any weird noises. Condition is key as a well kept up truck was driven as much also. Check lipos for “puffiness” and realize the Maxx is a good truck. I got one for $130 less than the same one went for on eBay without shipping charges, so felt I got a fair deal

  6. #6
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    I’m not knowledgeable about XMaxx model specific issues to look for, but most of what guys above have said is solid advice for any used R/C or even 1:1 car purchase.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dakratfink View Post
    I’m not knowledgeable about XMaxx model specific issues to look for, but most of what guys above have said is solid advice for any used R/C or even 1:1 car purchase.
    Listen for clicking diffs, stock esc and servo are kind of weak, and stock tires also rip.

  8. #8
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    I have only bought new ones - just waited for good deals. If you buy used then just make sure you have money around for ESC and driveline replacements. Usually the motors are good unless someone geared them up too much.
    Catch my videos at youtube.com/c/offworkhours

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier USMC1984's Avatar
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    My rules for buying anything used is:

    1. The price must be 50% of new or less.

    2. I have to either be very knowledgeable about the item or have someone with me who is.

    3. I tend to only buy used if the item is not available new anymore.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by USMC1984 View Post
    My rules for buying anything used is:

    1. The price must be 50% of new or less.

    2. I have to either be very knowledgeable about the item or have someone with me who is.

    3. I tend to only buy used if the item is not available new anymore.
    I second that emotion.
    Die a man, than live like a Traxxas unmentionable.

  11. #11
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    Id buy used with batts at 3rd to half off. That way if you get and dont like you can turn around sell for no loss. Use extra $ that youd of spent on new purchase to fix any issues and customize it after you decide if it's your cup of tea. If you buy new and dont like it for whatever reason you will take a huge loss like a new 1:1 car. Once you own/title it it drops price big time. As mentioned above if used is not 50% of new they dont tend to sell that easily. I will go as high as 75% of new price for a used one but only after checking it out and is in good working condition like new or has many nice customizations to it. My thought process as I've bought and sold many rcs.

    Just one more rc, then I'm done.
    Last edited by Briber; 01-09-2020 at 09:06 AM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  12. #12
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    Personally I tend to always buy new. Just like the fact that I'm the 'first owner' and can then tailor or use the RC the way I want knowing I have a true 'blank canvas'.

    However, not all used RCs are bashed heavily. I sold my own XMaxx 8s recently with batteries for around 85% of the new price. I do not bash hard. I do not run my RCs in wet or muddy conditions either. I like to take care of them. So much so, that when I sold the truck it looked like new, hence why I got the high price, while the buyer received an 'as new' truck.

    If you want to buy used it would be on a case-by-case basis with a close inspection of the truck. But, as stated above, there are some parts you cant easily get to for inspection, so you need to have a repair budget in mind 'just in case'.
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  13. #13
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    Thanks for the replies. They are helpful.

    Went to my local hobbytown last night and spent a while talking with the owner about the Xmaxx. He was super helpful and reiterated a lot of the stuff that has been said here.

    One of the main reasons I have been thinking about buying used is because a number of listings include batteries and a charger, which is a pretty significant cost savings as decent 4C lipos are generally not cheap and I don't currently have a 4C charger. That said, the owner of the local hobbytown reiterated what TC said in the first reply to this thread, only stronger. That is, he said that "to him, used LIPOs are worthless because they have to be well cared for, and unless you know the person you are buying from you have no idea whether the batteries have been taken care of or not. So if you don't know the seller, the value of the lipos is basically 0 as they might be fine, or they might be complete crap and start a fire." He also said that most of the metal parts people put on these trucks are "just bling" and would not be something he would look for or consider to add value to the truck.

    The owner did say that he would add some value if someone properly did the most common mods for the truck - namely the servo, control arm, rear carriers, and perhaps tires. He also said to carefully inspect the truck if someone replaced the servo themselves, as he has seen many trucks where the servo was not properly installed and lead to extensive damage to the truck. In fact, he had an xmaxx in the shop for repairs for that very reason.

    BTW - searching for a reasonably priced well reviewed charger lead me down a ridiculous rabbit hole. If anyone can recommend a decent dual 4s charger that can be had for less than $150 (AC or DC with a power source), please let me know.

  14. #14
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    Still going to check out the used truck this weekend, but I am starting to think that new is the way to go. That said, would like opinions on the following combo. Most of the stuff is pretty standard, but I would really appreciate comments on the LIPO and charger combo as I have no experience with either brand. Settled on the indicated charger and batteries after quite a bit of searching but I am certainly open to alternatives.

    Xmaxx truck - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q61YMB9...v_ov_lig_dp_it

    LIPO charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P863S9D...v_ov_lig_dp_it

    TRX connectors (Not sure if these are what I need to connect the batteries linked below to the charger) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZP6Q74...v_ov_lig_dp_it

    6000MaH Graphene Lipos - I know these are cheap and might not last, but they are reasonably well rated so I am willing to take a shot. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MDBVJ31...v_ov_lig_dp_it

    Lipo Container - because duh - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719H46PF...v_ov_lig_dp_it

    2 sets RPM A arms (As spares - not planning to replace the stock ones until they break). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GKAPQFM...v_ov_lig_dp_it

    RPM pins - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7TZPNK...v_ov_lig_dp_it

    RPM rear axle carriers - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LE0P20M...v_ov_lig_dp_it

    Bluetooth module - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1YJQAC...v_ov_lig_dp_it

  15. #15
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    I canít speak on them batteries and charger.

    I use ammo cans to store batteries.

    I have only broke one a arm on the bxm track. I just keep stock arms on hands.

    I also run stock axle carriers on 2 of 3 x-Maxxís. I do not have bearing issues but no sand around here and I stay out of water.

    First thing I like to do is t bone front bumper and the nets for keeping the chassis clean. I also run alum rear diff cover and alum spur gear cover to stiffen the rear end. I lastly I only run the max 6 esc not necessary oh. Just sharing what I have found bashing the xmaxx.

  16. #16
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    I would go to SMC website. They have quality batteries and they have some chargers as well, comparable to the price you posted. There are some that have more MAH, and cost less, and they also have some with way more MAH for about 15min. And the older legacy traxxas connectors do work with the new ID connectors. As for a charger they have some good ones too. Price is comparable to what you posted as well. The Hoda D6 plus AC/DC charger is a good one and isnít that much more then what you are looking at. I trust what they sell as being good. Not sure about the charger or lipos you listed as Iíve never heard of them. Maybe someone that has either or both the charger and lipos you listed can vouch for them. I know most here will vouch for SMC as being pretty quality stuff. Just some food for thought.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 222 View Post
    I would go to SMC website. They have quality batteries and they have some chargers as well, comparable to the price you posted. There are some that have more MAH, and cost less, and they also have some with way more MAH for about 15min. And the older legacy traxxas connectors do work with the new ID connectors. As for a charger they have some good ones too. Price is comparable to what you posted as well. The Hoda D6 plus AC/DC charger is a good one and isn’t that much more then what you are looking at. I trust what they sell as being good. Not sure about the charger or lipos you listed as I’ve never heard of them. Maybe someone that has either or both the charger and lipos you listed can vouch for them. I know most here will vouch for SMC as being pretty quality stuff. Just some food for thought.
    Thanks a lot. Will check them out.

    *Edit - Holy crap. Thanks for the recommendation. There is some good and reasonably priced stuff on that site.
    Last edited by shonuff2653; 01-09-2020 at 11:43 AM.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
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    SMC batts and Hitec chargers get my vote. The x2 pro on right has a built in soldering station if you solder rc wiring and want to make your own electrical plugs/adapters. Both can run on ac or dc and both have lots of charging capabilities/options. Two batts and a charger is gonna start at 225-250 easy for decent stuff. You get what you pay for. I've went cheap routes on batts n chargers until I landed on this combo and never wanted to try anything else since. These batts and chargers have been solid for me and have traveled with them a lot so they hold up in my experience. I always try to swoop up lipos in rc deals!!! A quick look & test of cells and charging will give you a sign if it's ok to run in rc before you blindly throw in and go bashing. If not puffed, no cells are below 3v and charges up to 4.2 per cell then I think your ok to run with out worry of batt fire lol. So if they are fine then deal is even better but if bad then take to hobby store for disposal. So while I agree look at batts as no such real value to rc deal, it can really sweeten a deal if you get viable batts out of it. So when I have a chance I always look for deals with batts included. Never hurts to have spare batts. I have to give a shout out to Trx chargers. They are nice, look cool and user friendly. They are simple with very little options to get confused with, just make charging easy in the beginning. Hitec chargers have a lot of options with a big menu tree for settings. Like anything once familiar it's easy though.

    Just one more rc, then I'm done.
    Last edited by Briber; 01-09-2020 at 12:01 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier USMC1984's Avatar
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    I'm not a fan of metal A-Arms...I'd rather the inexpensive plastic A-arms break than the chassis.

    As for batteries, I run Traxxas batteries for a bunch of reasons and I rarely if ever run the biggest cell battery that the vehicle is capable of. So, therefore, I don't have any 4s batteries for my X-Maxx. It goes pretty good on 3s. I have rarely broken hard parts with this approach, The breakage I've experienced always came with maxing out battery capability.

    I'm not a modder though and I don't like repairing the trucks...I usually pay the LHS to do repairs.
    I never try to make one truck into another....I just buy the one that it would potentially be. ...Which has resulted in buying just about every 4x4 truck Traxxas makes except the Slash. LOL

    Servos are a different story...steering servos in these things are junk in my opinion.

    It sounds like the LHS you visited is very helpful, I'd consider keeping them in business and shopping there!

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USMC1984 View Post
    I'm not a fan of metal A-Arms...I'd rather the inexpensive plastic A-arms break than the chassis.

    As for batteries, I run Traxxas batteries for a bunch of reasons and I rarely if ever run the biggest cell battery that the vehicle is capable of. So, therefore, I don't have any 4s batteries for my X-Maxx. It goes pretty good on 3s. I have rarely broken hard parts with this approach, The breakage I've experienced always came with maxing out battery capability.

    I'm not a modder though and I don't like repairing the trucks...I usually pay the LHS to do repairs.
    I never try to make one truck into another....I just buy the one that it would potentially be. ...Which has resulted in buying just about every 4x4 truck Traxxas makes except the Slash. LOL

    Servos are a different story...steering servos in these things are junk in my opinion.

    It sounds like the LHS you visited is very helpful, I'd consider keeping them in business and shopping there!
    Agree with everything!

    But have different opinion on voltage. If your gonna buy something why only use a part of it. While I agree your approach is very easy on the truck and has saved wear n tear, it's just not the same on 6s. 8s brings a totally new level of fun to it. And I've always ran mine on 8s and broke one arm in 2 years. So it's possible to run max voltage without breaks while enjoying it. Old rc enthusiast told me once, finger control son. Lol. Oh on the servo I've never had a problem but others have, I assuming you have? What happened?

    Just one more rc, then I'm done.
    Last edited by Briber; 01-09-2020 at 12:44 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier USMC1984's Avatar
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    With the X-Maxx the other battery issue for me is I try to only buy batteries that will also work in other trucks.

    The performance of the X-Maxx on 6s is satisfactory for me...I have to travel as it is to run anything bigger than the Rusty.

    For me to invest in the 4s would require another charger and at least two batteries...I could buy another truck, drone, power tool or handgun for that! ...Not that I need any more of any of those things! LOL

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USMC1984 View Post
    With the X-Maxx the other battery issue for me is I try to only buy batteries that will also work in other trucks.

    The performance of the X-Maxx on 6s is satisfactory for me...I have to travel as it is to run anything bigger than the Rusty.

    For me to invest in the 4s would require another charger and at least two batteries...I could buy another truck, drone, power tool or handgun for that! ...Not that I need any more of any of those things! LOL
    I completely understand that.

    Just one more rc, then I'm done.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  23. #23
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    Update: Ended up buying the used xmaxx. Got it for $500 without batteries, which is fine because I did not want the used one's anyway. Truck is a little beat but nothing major. Just needs a new fan (current one works but is loud) and wheelie bar. Can't wait until the batteries arrive!

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shonuff2653 View Post
    Update: Ended up buying the used xmaxx. Got it for $500 without batteries, which is fine because I did not want the used one's anyway. Truck is a little beat but nothing major. Just needs a new fan (current one works but is loud) and wheelie bar. Can't wait until the batteries arrive!
    Hopefully their loud cause they popped out stock fans and put in aftermarket high rpm fans for you already!

    Just one more rc, then I'm done.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  25. #25
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    When it comes to big scale stuff I say used. I personally feel the large scale stuff is very over inflated. I also feel that if you are looking to buy an X-maxx, you are probably going to bash it as well, so you are going to break stuff and have replacement costs regardless of if you buy new or used.

    Case in point, I just picked up a used X-maxx (My first one) on the Auction site that shall not be named for $571. I needed a new body ($92) and a new tire ($52 for a pair). I'm at $715 and I have a 100% working truck, a spare tire, and $184 less than what a new one costs to use towards repairs/upgrades.

    And, realistically you are going to destroy a body and blow a stock tire anyway, so the cost of those 2 items would be experienced regardless of if you buy new or not.

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier USMC1984's Avatar
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    The extra money is worth the excitement of unboxing a shiny new truck though...for me at least!

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by USMC1984 View Post
    The extra money is worth the excitement of unboxing a shiny new truck though...for me at least!
    Oh I can definitely appreciate that. Nothing like the smell of new toys!

  28. #28
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    I would never buy used batteries, I would also never pay anyone to fix my RCís for me. I have plenty of aluminum on my front end and actually bash pretty hard. Itís held up very well. I donít think Iíve heard of any people here break a chassis. I bought a used P4de roller, it was a good buy. I think itís a case by case decision


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  29. #29
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    RC joy toys
    beat an robbed of parts - orphaned - neglected - sometimes near free
    or straight from the assembly line - just thrash and fix'em till done -daily
    fabricator

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyXMAXX View Post
    RC joy toys
    beat an robbed of parts - orphaned - neglected - sometimes near free
    or straight from the assembly line - just thrash and fix'em till done -daily
    Great way to approach the hobby


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  31. #31
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    Depends what condition used one is in, also it might be a 6s version you should get the 8s.

  32. #32
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    When you buy used discounted at least 50%, chargers and batteries are throw ins only. When your looking at a XMAXX used it’s an expensive roll of the dice. So it looks beat it has been trashed!

    If it looks new there could be electronics issues to which you only get Traxxas’s 50% off the replacements. So the great deal you thought you got, is now the same price as new!

    Now buying new, the electronics are only warrantied for 30 days, many pull and sell them on eBay and install the electronics of their choice. Again this usually requires throwing down additional dollars.

    So I guess in the end it’s about do you feel lucky....

  33. #33
    RC Qualifier USMC1984's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shonuff2653 View Post
    Oh I can definitely appreciate that. Nothing like the smell of new toys!
    Plus, my cats love the empty boxes!

  34. #34
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    Depends on the deal. I bought my 8S for 760 with the upgraded servo, RPM arms, Proline wheels and aluminum hubs and carriers.
    It needed motor fans and rear pinion and ring. I went ahead and pretty much rebuilt it from the ground up doing the recommended mods along the way like RPM rear hubs, Cen pins, oil and springs, ect and still came in slightly under new cost. In the end I saved money and have a stronger than new truck.

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